November  8,  1900, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
415 
Standard  Currants  and  Gooseberries. 
Ims  method  of  growing  Red  and  White  Currants  and  Goosebsrries 
might  with  advantage  be  more  widely  adopted,  as  it  is  an  interesting, 
economical,  and  profitable  way  of  growing  these  fruits.  Ii  is  especially 
adapted  for  growing  on  limited  spices.  A  mixture  of  standards  ami 
Treatment  of  Stanhopeas. 
These  plants  may  be  much  better  grown  than  they  are  in  many 
places  if  a  little  of  the  careful  treatment  that  is  bestowed  on  more 
popular  genera  was  accorded  them,  and  no  one  who  has  seen  well 
flowered  specimens  ot  S.  eburnea  or  S.  tigrina  will  deny  that  they 
are  worthy  of  a 
little  care.  The 
flowers,  though 
evanescent,  are 
nevertheless  very 
beautiful  and 
fragrant,  while 
their  grotesque 
forms  and  beauti- 
ful  texture  never 
fail  to  excite  admi¬ 
ration.  Stanhopeas 
will  not  flower 
if  frequently  dis¬ 
turbed  at  the  roots, 
but  every  year 
they  should  have 
a  little  of  the 
surface  compost 
removed  and  re¬ 
placed  with  fresh 
sphagnum  and 
charcoal,  the  early 
spring  months 
being  the  best 
time  to  CO  this. 
Any  plants  that 
are  unhealthy 
should  be  shaken 
out  of  the  com¬ 
post;  well  washed 
in  tepid  water,  and 
all  decayed  roots 
cut  away.  They 
may  then  be  re¬ 
placed  in  either 
teak  or  copper 
wire  baskets,  using 
for  compost  fresh 
sphagnum,  plenty 
of  charcoal,  and  a 
little  good  loam 
fibre.  Large  pieces 
of  charcoal  should 
be  laid  in  the 
bottom  of  the 
basket,  and  placed 
as  far  apart  as 
possible  to  allow 
the  flower  spikes 
to  descend,  then 
a  layer  of  moss 
over  these  and  around  the  sides  of  the  baskets.  The  plants  must 
be  firmly  set  in  position,  as  the  young  roots  wUen  formed 
are  very  brittle.  If  the  old  roots  are  plentiful  this  is  easily 
managed,  but  if  not  they  must  be  tied  securely  to  the  sides  until 
re-established. 
All  the  kinds  mentioned  below  will  flourish  if  kept  well  up  to  the 
glass  in  a  warm  house  in  the  summer,  and  they  should  be  liberally 
watered  both  at  the  roots  and  on  the  foliage  while  growing.  In  the 
winter  they  may  be  removed  to  cooler  and  drier  quarters.  This  will 
rest  the  plants,  and  also  tend  to  keep  insects  in  check.  The  species 
m  >8t  generally  grown  are  S.  eburnea,  S.  Bucephalus,  S.  insignis,  S. 
oculata,  S.  tigrina,  and  S.  Wardi.  All  these,  with  the  exception  of  the 
fir»t  named,  have  flowers  of  various  shades  of  yellow  more  or  less 
spotted  or  blotched  with  purple  or  crimson,  while  the  flowers  of 
S.  eburnea  a  e  wholly  of  pure  white.  The  newer  S.  Amesiana  (6g.  113) 
is  ivory  or  porcelain  white.  It  was  first  exhibited  by  Messrs.  H. 
Low  &  Co.  in  1893. — Orchidist. 
Fig.  113. — Stanhopea  Ame.siana. 
bushes  forms  a  very  attractive  fruit  garden.  The  trees  may  be  grown 
by  anyone  from  cuttingSj  or  the  trees  may  be  obtained  already  shapeit 
and  only  require  establishing  and  the  heads  enlarging,  to  lx- 
productive. 
If  it  is ’decided  to  grow  the  trees  from  cuttings  select  strong 
cuttings  about  18 
inches  long,  and 
insert  these  in  the 
ground,  removing 
the  lower  buds 
altogether  for 
about  6  inches,  this 
part  being  inserted 
in  the  ground.  The 
cutting  may  re¬ 
main  unshortened, 
and  all  the  buds 
encouraged  to 
break,  including 
the  terminal  bud, 
which  must  be 
permitted  to 
extend  the  stem 
upwards.  When 
the  side  shoots 
have  formed  two 
leaves,  pinch  them 
at  this  point  and 
at  one  afterwards. 
These  growths 
will  strengthen  the 
main  stem,  and  by 
suppressing  them 
from  making 
vigorous  growth, 
this  largely  bene¬ 
fits  the  terminal 
shoots,  which  will 
extend  remarkabl3’^ 
well.  If  it  reach 
a  length  of  4  feet 
the  first  season  it 
will  be  ample,  and 
the  growth  may 
be  shortened  to 
feet.  Select 
about  five  shoots 
from  each  to  form 
the  head  when  the 
buds  push  in  spring.  The  side  growths  on  the  stem  may  be  shortened 
to  two  buls  in  winter. 
After  the  third  season  gradually  remove  these  growths,  as  by  that 
time  they  will  have  fulfilled  their  purpose — namely,  strengthening 
the  growth  of  stem  during  early  stages.  The  five  shoots  encouraged 
to  form  the  head  may,  in  winter,  be  pruned  to  9  inches,  which  will 
induce  additional  shoots,  enough  to  form  a  symmetrical  head.  Side 
growths  will  push  on  the  older  wood,  and  as  these  will  crovd  the  head 
and  be  of  no  practical  service,  pinch  the  growth  in  summer  to  two 
leaves  and  originate  spurs  by  close  pruning  in  winter.  The  following 
year  the  additional  shoots  will  push  side  growths  the  same.  Treat 
them  similarly  each  year. 
Place  strong  firm  stakes  to  the  trees  and  mulch  with  manure 
during  summer,  also  water  freely  if  required.  The  trees  are  easily 
protected  from  birds  by  netting  when  the  fruit  is  hanging  ripe.— 
E.  Baebow. 
