November  8,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
417 
Tulips  in  Pots  and  Beds. 
Those  persons  who  have  had  opportunities  of  seeing  the 
magnificent  beds  of  bulbs  in  the  London  parks  in  spring,  and 
especially  those  in  Hyde  Park,  cannot  have  failed  to  be  struck  by  the 
gorgeous  effect  of  the  large  beds  of  Tulips,  in  which  are  represented 
all  the  most  telling  shades  of  colour  that  these  handsome  flowers 
embrace.  Those  who  have  not  seen  broad  masses  of  these,  the  most 
brilliant  of  all  spring  flower.'i,  have  yet  to  learn  what  a  dazzling  picture 
is  provided  when  the  bast  varieties  are  planted  in  quantity.  Few 
■floral  displays  can  equal  it.  The  colours  range  from  a  deep  purple  or 
violet,  almost  claret,  as  in  the  distinct  Wouvermans,  to  rich  crimson, 
brilliant  scarlet,  bright  orange  and  yellow,  and  through  many  beautiful 
shades  of  rose  and  pink  to  pure  white.  But  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  Tulips  are  not  self-coloured.  In  such  charming  varieties  as 
Bride  of  Haarlem  and  Eoyal  Standard  we  have  a  white  ground,  striped 
and  barred  with  crimson.  In  others  a  white  ground  colour  is 
delicately  suffused  with  a  distinct  shade,  as  in  the  rose  Due  Van  Thol  ; 
this  variety  is  not  bright  rose  in  colour,  but  white,  with  a  dainty 
suffusion  of  rose ;  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  all. 
It  is  a  not  uncommon  complaint 
that  the  early  single  and  double  Tulips 
are  gaudy  and  glaring — that  there  is 
not  sufficient  “  repose  ”  about  them. 
I  may  remark  that  numbers  of  persons 
who  raise  this  objection  to  them  are 
those  who  exhibit  an  enthusiastic 
admiration  for  such  flowers  as  single 
Dahlias.  Yet  who  will  aver  that  the 
latter  are  less  “gaudy”  or  less  con¬ 
spicuous  for  “  lack  of  refinement  ” 
(these  are  the  favourite  ph’'  ;se8  of  the 
Tulip  decriers)  than  the  Tulips  ?  I 
am  afraid  that  opinions  are  guided  on 
such  points  as  this  rather  by  fashion 
than  by  judgment. 
Tulips  are  charming  flowers  for 
the  greenhouse  as  well  as  for  planting 
out  of  doors.  A  trio  of  distinct 
varieties  in  a  5-inch  pot  makes  as 
pretty  an  object  in  a  glass  structure 
in  spring  as  can  be  wished  if  all  unfold 
at  the  same  time  and  are  of  the  same 
height ;  but  as  they  vary  in  the  latter 
respect,  it  is  well  to  have  only  one 
variety  in  each  pot. 
Where  gardens  are  possessed  of 
sufficient  size  for  planting  beds  solely 
with  bulbs.  Tulips  may  be  largely 
used,  as  they  are  both  brilliant  and 
cheap.  Ordinary  soil  that  is  well 
drained  and  not  very  heavy  suits  Tulips 
well.  It  should  be  well  stirred  before 
the  bulbs  are  put  in.  If  it  is  of  a  clayey 
nature  a  liberal  addition  of  sand  will 
improve  it  considerably,  and  if  poor  a  dressing  of  soot  dug  in  will  add  to 
its  fertility  in  a  marked  degree.  The  bulbs  may  be  about  3  inches  deep 
and  6  inches  apart.  To  plant  them  so  closely  that  the  flowers  nearly 
touch  is  wasteful ;  for  the  effect  is  cot  greater,  and  many  more  bulbs 
are  of  course  required.  If  Tulips  are  planted  in  beds  in  conjunction 
with  Hyacinths,  the  latter  in  the  centre,  the  ground  should  slope  a 
little  towards  the  edge,  for  many  varieties  are  taller  than  the 
Hyacinths,  and  unless  planted  a  little  lower  will  overtop  them  and 
spoil  the  bed.  Many  persons  who  would  like  to  grow  a  few  Tulips 
in  their  gardens  are  not  in  a  position  to  plant  entire  beds  with  them, 
but  they  can  have  beautiful  clumps  here  and  there  by  planting  three 
bulbs  about  3  inches  apart. 
The  requisites  for  growing  Tulips  in  pots  for  the  decoration  of 
the  greenhouse  are  precisely  the  same  as  those  needed  in  Hyacinth 
culture,  namely,  a  supply  of  5-inch  pots,  some  crocks,  a  quantity  of 
fertile  sandy  compost  and  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  to  cover  the  pots 
with  when  filled.  It  would  bo  well  to  purchase  bulbs  immediately, 
and  in  the  meantime  get  everything  in  readiness  for  inserting  them 
directly  they  come  to  hand,  as  it  is  quite  time  they  were  potted.  Let 
the  bulbs  (three  in  a  pot)  rest  on  a  pinch  of  sand,  and  pot  them  firmly, 
with  the  tips  just  visible  through  the  soil.  Plunge  the  pots  in  the 
cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  in  a  sheltered  position,  resting  them  on  a  layer 
of  ashes,  for  five  or  six  weeks,  then  remove  one  or  two  to  see  if  they 
are  pushing  growth ;  and  if  they  are,  as  they  ought  to  be,  remove 
them  to  the  greenhouse  or  window,  water  as  required,  stake  when  the 
spikes  have  sufficiently  developed  to  require  it,  and  in  due  time 
charming  pots  of  bloom  will  be  had. — W. 
Hyacintlias  candicans. 
Fig.  114. — N.4Rcissus  obvallaris  (Texby  Daffodil) 
This  plant,  with  its  Yucca-like  foliage  and  handsome  spike  of 
white,  pendent,  bell-shaped  flowers,  is  deservedly  most  popular.  Correctly 
speaking,  it  should  be  referred  to  as  Galtonia  candicans;  though 
introduced  under  the  name  of  Hyacinthus,  and  closely  allied  to  the 
Hyacinth  genus,  it  is  considered  to  be  distinct  from  it  by  botanists  ; 
hence  a  new  generic  name  was  found  for  it,  derived  from  that  of 
Francis  Galton,  the  author  of  a  “Narrative  of  an  Explorer  in  South 
Africa.” 
Some  doubt  of  its  hardiness  existed  at  first,  but  this  has  long 
since  been  dispelled.  If  the  bulbs  are  placed  4  inches  below  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  a  mulching  of  litter  is  applied  in  autumn, 
there  need  be  no  fear  of  its  being  injured  by  cold  ;  indeed,  I 
know  of  many  clumps  that  receive  no  such  attention,  yet  pass  the 
winter  safely  and  increase  in  strength  annually. 
The  flowering  period  of  the  Galtonia  or  Hyacinthus  commences 
late  in  J uly  or  early  in  August,  and  continues  for  a  considerable 
period.  Though  not  having  the  advantage  of  coming  into  bloom  at 
a  time  when  flowers  are  scarce,  and  thus  presenting  a  double  c  aim 
to  attention,  it  is  of  sufficiently  dis¬ 
tinct  character  to  be  noteworthy,  even 
amongst  a  crowd  of  annuals  and 
perennials  that  are  still  far  from  past 
their  best.  It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the 
handsomest  of  border  plants.  Growing 
3  feet  high  and  upwards,  it  is  con¬ 
spicuous  by  broid  foliage  and  long 
spikes  of  graceful  blossoms  opening 
in  succession. 
Galtonia  or  Hyacinthus  candicans 
is  found  to  succeed  best  in  light  soil 
of  a  fertile  nature,  but  it  will  do  well 
in  most  sods  that  are  well  drained. 
Solitary  plants  have  a  poor  effect 
compared  with  clumps  of  from  three 
to  twelve  bulbs,  which  produce  a 
grand  effect  in  a  suitable  rooting 
medium.  They  are  procurable  in  the 
autumn  at  the  same  time  as  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  and  other  bulbs,  and  may  be 
planted  at  the  least  4  inches  deep  in 
October  or  November.  They  are  not 
expensive. 
See  that  the  soil  is  well  drained, 
and  work  it  well  to  the  depth  of  a 
foot,  incorporating  sand  if  it  is  not 
of  a  porous  character.  Three  bulbs 
may  be  inserted  an  inch  or  so  apart, 
and  will  form  the  nucleus  of  a  fine 
clump.  When  established,  a  mulch¬ 
ing  of  well-decayed  manure  or  leaf 
soil  round  the  plants  in  autumn,  and 
pointed  in  with  a  fork  in  spring,  will 
benefit  them,  acting  both  as  a  fertiliser 
and  as  a  protector  from  frost.  It  may  be  added  that  the  plant  sesds 
freely,  seedlings  flowering  in  the  second  year. 
But  the  plant  is  not  valuable  for  outdoor  cultivation  alone  ;  it  is 
useful  for  pots  also.  Plants  for  conservatory  decoration  are  not 
numerous  in  August,  and  a  dozen  bulbs  of  Galtonia  candicans  in  ® 
9  or  10-inch  pot  are  very  effective  when  in  bloom.  Good  turfy 
loam,  with  a  fifth  of  well-decayed  manure  and  a  sprinkling  of  sand, 
will  grow  them  well,  placing  the  roots  so  that  the  crowns  will  be 
covered  2  inches  deep.  The  pots  should  be  efficiently  drained,  as 
the  plants  require  plentiful  supplies  of  water  when  in  free  growth. 
In  the  winter  they  may  be  plunged  in  ashes  outdoors,  and  be 
grown  through  the  summer  in  an  open  situation,  but  sheltered  from 
winds.  The  plants  must  be  supplied  with  water  and  liquid  manure, 
removing  them  indoors  when  the  spike  appears,  if  wanted  early,  or 
when  the  first  flowers  expand.  If  wanted  to  flower  late  they  may 
be  retarded  by  placing  them  in  June  at  the  north  side  of  a 
and  they  may  then  be  had  in  bloom  late  in  September.  The 
flowers  are  good  for  cutting ;  and,  when  mounted,  useful  for 
bouquets. — H. 
- - 
Salvia  splendens. — One  of  the  best  plants  for  decorative  purposes 
during  winter  is  the  old  Salvia  splendens,  the  bright  scarlet  flowers  and 
bracts  of  which  impart  quite  a  gay  appearance  to  a  greenhouse  or 
conservatory  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  dull  season.  It  succeeds 
better  and  makes  finer  specimens  if  planted  out  during  summer  than  if 
grown  in  pots  all  through  the  year. — F.  B. 
