422 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Uoveinber  8,  1900. 
Forthcoming  Shows. 
As  is  usual  at  this  time  of  the  year  we  have  received  numerous 
intimations  of  Chrysanthemum  shows  which  are  to  be  held  during 
the  coming  season.  Space,  however,  can  only  be  found  for  mentioning 
those  that  have  been  advertised  in  our  columns.  We  append  the 
dates  of  such  fixtures,  with  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  respective 
secretaries : — 
Nov,  9, 10. — Altrincham. — W.  Hazlehurst,  40,  Eailway  St.,  Altrincham . 
,,  9,  10. — Eccles. — J.  H.  Bryan,  134,  New  Lane,  Peel  Green, 
Patricroft. 
„  9,  10. — ^Sheffield. — Wm,  Housley,  28,  Joshua  Road,  SheflBeld. 
„  13,  14. — Belfast.- — J.  Macbride,  Victoria  Square,  Belfast, 
,,  13,  14. — Leeds. — W.  Smith,  The  Gardens,  Weetwood  Hall,  Leeds. 
„  14. — Evesham. — Geo.  Witts,  Evesham. 
„  14,  15. — Hdll. — Edward  Harland,  Manor  Street,  Hull;  Jas.  Dixon, 
F.R.H.S.,  2,  County  Buildings,  Hull. 
„  14,  15.— Rogby  — William  Bryant,  8,  Barby  Road,  Rugby. 
„  14,  15,  16. — York. — G.  F.  W.  Oman,  38,  Petergate,  York. 
,,  15,  16. — Parkstone. — T.  K.  Ingram,  Parkstone  Nurseries,  Dorset. 
,,  16,  17. — Bolton. — Jas.  Hicks,  1,  Beckett  Street,  Bolton. 
,,  16,  17. — Bradford. — R.  Eichel,  Eldwick,  Bingley. 
„  16,  17. — Huddersfield.— John  Bell,  Marsh,  Huddersfield. 
,,  16,  17. — Macclesfield. — W.  Oldham,  153,  Gt.  King  St.,  Macclesfield- 
,,  21,  22.— Birkenhead.— W.  H.  Yeo,  3,  Clarendon  St.,  Birkenhead. 
,,  22,  23. — Leamington. — Arthur  J.  Nichols,  Leamington. 
Lily  Mountford. 
We  understand  that  the  stock  of  this  splendid  Chrysanthemum, 
which  since  the  English  honours  has  gained  the  first-class  certificate 
of  the  French  National  Chrysanthemum  Society,  will  be  distributed 
by  Mr.  Noiman  Davis,  and  not  by  Messrs.  Wells  &  Co.,  as  stated  on 
page  400. 
J.  R.  Upton. 
This  is  one  of  the  novelties  that  was  not  appreciated  the  first 
year  it  was  distributed,  but  during  the  past  two  seasons  it  has 
come  to  the  front  with  a  bound.  It  received  a  fiist-class  certificate 
from  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  in  December  last,  and 
the  blooms  then  staged  by  Mr.  R.  Kenyon  won  golden  opinions 
from  all  who  saw  them.  It  may  be  best  described  as  a 
bright  golden  yellow  of  great  substance ;  possibly  one  of  the  best 
yellows  for  exhibition  purposes.  The  plant  is  a  dwarf  sturdy 
grower  with  a  fine  habit.  It  comes  well  on  a  late  first  crown,  or  if 
the  plant  is  stopped  in  February  the  second  crown  bud  is  excellent 
in  colour  and  size.  On  October  23rd  Mr.  W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmouth, 
exhibited  some  splendid  flowers  at  the  meeting  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  and  the  Floral  Committee  recommended  an 
award  of  merit.  We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Godfrey  for  the  flower 
from  which  our  slightly  reduced  illustration  was  prepared. 
Growing  Specimen  Plants. 
The  beautiful  specimen  plants  which  are  to  be  seen  at  the  leading 
exhibitions  are  the  outcome  of  much  care  and  attention  throughout 
the  season.  Continuous  and  unremitting  care  is  given,  especially 
in  the  supplying  of  moisture  and  soluble  food,  also  in  stopping  the 
plants  to  obtain  a  sufficient  number  of  shoots,  which  are  eventually 
to  be  trained  to  the  desired  shape  to  form  the  specimen. 
There  are  two  methods  of  producing  specimen  plants — viz.,  by 
cuttings  and  cutting  back  old  plants.  Cuttings  must  be  rooted  early 
in  November,  so  as  to  give  a  long  season  of  growth.  For  this  purpose 
the  best  cuttings  must  be  selected,  stout  sucker  growths  without 
flower  buds  in  the  centre.  It  is  best  to  root  them  singly  in  small  pots 
so  as  to  avoid  giving  a  check  when  moving.  They  root  readily  under 
a  hand-light  or  in  a  closed  frame.  After  roots  are  formed  give  the 
plants  an  airy  and  light  position,  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass  in  a  green¬ 
house  being  the  most  suitable.  Here  they  will  grow  steadily  and 
remain  dwarf.  When  the  pots  are  full  of  roots  shift  the  plants  to  a 
size  larger.  The  first  stopping  should  be  made  when  the  growth  is 
4  inches  high,  just  punching  out  the  tip.  This  stopping  has  the  effect 
of  causing  side  growths  to  start,  which  furnish  additional  shoots. 
Immediately  these  push,  transfer  the  plants  to  5  or  6-inch  pots.  Still 
give  them  a  light  position  in  a  steady  growing  temperature,  and  when 
the  side  shoots  attain  to  the  length  of  4  inches  take  out  their  points. 
It  will  be  some  considerable  time,  probably  the  end  of  February 
or  early  in  March,  when  they  are  ready  for  the  next  shift,  which 
may  be  into  7  or  8-inch  pots.  A  larger  proportion  of  loam  should  be 
used  in  mixing  up  the  compost  at  this  potting.  Equal  parts  of  loam, 
leaf  soil,  and  sand  are  best  in  the  early  stages.  A  stronger  compost 
consists  of  two  parts  of  loam,  one  of  leaf  soil,  and  a  little 
decomposed  manure  and  wood  ashes.  Work  this  firmly  round  the 
ball.  Greenhouse  treatment  on  a  shelf  or  stage  under  the  roof  should 
be  continued  during  March.  Afterwards  find  the  plants  a  position  in  a 
deep  frame  dr  pit  where  they  can  stand  on  inverted  pots,  so  that  a 
circulation  of  air  is  insured  about  them,  and  the  tops  of  the  plants 
are  within  a  reasonable  distance  of  the  glass  as  this  prevents  drawing. 
On  every  favourable  occasion  give  air  freely,  avoiding  cold  draughts 
by  admitting  the  air  on  the  opposite  side  to  that  from  which  the  wind 
comes.  Give  careful  attention  to  water,  especially  just  after  potting. 
Tne  final  shift  may  be  made  to  10-inch  pots  in  the  middle  of  May. 
The  pots  must  be  clean,  dry,  and  well  drained.  Prepare  the  compost 
some  time  previously.  This  time  for  the  final  potting  use  three  parts 
loam,  one  part  sweet  leaf  soil,  free  from  worms  and  insects.  To  this 
add  one  part  of  partly  decomposed  manure,  and  half  a  part  of  pounded 
lime  scraps  or  old  mortar.  Broken  oystershells  are  excellent.  To 
every  bushel  of  soil  add  a  pound  of  bonemeal  and  a  quart  of  soot. 
A  quarter  part  of  wood  ashes  and  a  similar  quantity  of  coarse  sand 
will  complete  the  list  of  ingredients.  All  that  remains  is  to  mix  the 
whole  together  and  store  in  a  dry  place.  Before  using  for  potting,  the 
compost,  if  dry,  must  be  brought  to  a  moist  condition.  The  drainage 
in  the  pots  must  be  covered  with  fibrous  material  gathered  from  the 
compost  or  prepared  from  fibrous  turf.  This  also  ought  to  be  moist. 
Make  the  compost  firm  round  the  ball  of  roots.  This  is  best  effected 
by  introducing  the  soil  in  layers,  and  ramming  it  firmly  with  a 
potting  stick.  Arrange  the  ball  of  roots  in  the  pot  so  that  the  top 
is  coveied  with  fresh  soil  but  yet  enough  room  is  left  for  watering. 
After  potting,  stand  the  plants  closely  together  in  a  sheltered 
position.  Afford  water  carefully,  and  on  fine  days  syringe  freely.  If 
the  plants  can  have  frame  treatment  a  short  time  it  will  assist  them 
to  become  established,  but  as  soon  as  growth  commences  ventilate 
freely,  gradually  increasing  the  amount  until  full  exposure  is  given. 
The  summer  quarters  for  the  plants  must  be  an  open  sunny  spot,  giving 
the  plants  abundance  of  room.  i  The  shoots  will  again  want  pinching 
as  they  become  long  enough,  but  cease  doing  this  by  the  end  of  June. 
Round-headed  or  globular  training  produces  most  effective  speci¬ 
mens.  A  framework  for  training  the  growths  upon  must  be  arranged. 
Obtain  a  wire  hoop  3  feet  in  diameter,  and  support  this  on  two  stakes 
crossing  each  other  over  the  centre  of  pot.  Also  fix  a  central  stake  to 
each  plant  standing  about  18  inches  out  of  centre  of  pot.  From  the 
stout  circular  wire  to  this  stake  other  wires  may  be  arranged  on 
which  the  shoots  can  be  disposed  at  equal  distances.  Regulate  and 
train  the  shoots  again  in  September,  arranging  the  points  of  shoots  as 
evenly  as  possible.  When  this  training  is  completed  house  the 
plants  in  a  light,  cool,  well-ventilated  structure.  Feed  carefully  with 
weak  but  varied  fertilisers  from  the  time  the  buds  show.  About  a 
mouth  before  the  plants  are  expected  to  fully  develop  their  blooms 
give  the  final  tying,  supporting  each  bloom  with  a  light  stake  and 
allowing  6  inches  above  trellis.  Some  varieties  may  have  more  room. 
Rub  out  all  bloom  buds  except  one  on  each  shoot.  Light  should 
reach  the  plants  on  all  sides  so  that  the  blooms  may  be  evenly 
developed.  During  the  time  the  flowers  are  advancing  maintain  a 
gentle  fire  heat  in  dull,  damp  weather,  as  this  materially  assists  them 
opening  steadily. 
The  most  popular  varieties  for  forming  specimens  are  the  free 
blooming  Japanese  and  reflexed  varieties.  Among  the  best  are 
Viviand  Morel,  Lady  Hanham,  Col.  W.  B.  Smith,  Mrs.  Mease,  John 
Shiimpton,  Phoebus,  President  Nonin,  Elsie,  Cullingfordi  ;and  among 
Pompons,  Cedo  Nulli,  Soeur  Melaine,  Madame  Marthe,  and  Francis 
Boyce. — B.  H. 
South  Wales  and  District. 
Having  had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  several  collections  of 
Chrysanthemums  lately,  it  may  interest  your  readers  to  learn  what 
the  prospect  is  in  the  district.  Battledown,  Cheltenham,  the  residence 
of  Col.  Rogers,  comes  first  on  my  list.  Mr.  Lusty,  the  gardener, 
gave  me  a  very  warm  welcome.  His  plants  are  mostly  timed  for 
Cheltenham  Show,  which  is  later  than  the  Welsh  shows,  and 
consequently  his  blooms  were  not  quite  so  advanced  as  some  of  the 
others.  Amongst  the  most  promising  in  the  Japanese  section  were 
Mrs.  David  Nicholl,  a  very  good  white;  Madame  P.  Rivoire,  Miss 
Alice  Byron,  another  new  white ;  Lionel  Humphrey,  a  kindly  looking 
bloom  of  Indian  red ;  S.  C.  Probyn,  Lord  Kitchener,  bronzy  yellow ; 
Mrs.  Hugh  Crawford,  Mrs.  W.  Cursham,  Mr.  A.  J.  Miller,  T.  Carrington, 
very  fine.  Miss  Edith  Pilkington,  Mens.  Chenon  de  L4che,  Mrs. 
W.  Mease  were  most  promising,  as  were  Madame  Carnot  and  G.  J. 
Warren.  J.  E.  Clayton,  the  yellow  sport  from  Eva  Knowles,  as  grown 
