November  29,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
49^ 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — The  praning  of  the  trees  should  be  attended  to 
without  delay.  Those  fully  grown  and  regularly  stopped  during  growth 
will  require  little  pruning.  Shoots  not  wanted  for  extension  should  be 
cut  back  to  about  an  inch  from  their  base  and  the  worn-out  and  decayed 
spurs  may  be  removed.  The  terminal  shoots  in  the  case  of  young 
trees  not  full  sized  must  not  be  shortened  unless  the  extremity  of  the 
trellis  is  reached,  and  the  central  shoots  of  young  trees  will  require  to 
be  cut  back  as  may  be  necessary  to  originate  shoots  for  filling  up 
space  regularly,  care  being  taken  to  prune  to  a  wood  bud.  Fan¬ 
training  is  the  most  eligible  system,  particularly  suited  to  the  Cherry, 
as  it  admits  of  replacing  any  branch  that  may  fall  a  prey  to  gumming. 
The  house  should  have  a  thorough  cleansing,  syringing  it  and  the  trees 
with  water  at  a  temperature  of  135°  to  140“,  afterwards  dressing  the 
latter  with  an  insecticide.  A  composition  formed  of  a  solution  of  soft- 
soap,  4  ozs.  to  half  a  gallon  of  water,  1  quart  tobacco  juice  diluted  with 
a  similar  quantity  of  hot  water,  with  slaked  lime  and  sulphur  in  equal 
parts,  the  sulphur  being  sprinkled  on  the  hot  lime  in  slaking,  sufficient 
to  form  a  thin  paint,  is  an  excellent  dressing  for  Cherry  trees,  applying 
with  a  brush,  and  taking  care  not  to  injure  the  buds.  The  roof-lights 
need  not  be  put  on  until  the  time  arrives  for  starting  the  trees,  which 
may  be  with  the  new  year,  to  have  ripe  Cherries  in  April. 
Cucumbers. — The  constant  firing  dries  the  atmosphere,  especially  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  hot-water  pipes,  more  than  is  good  for  the 
foliage,  and  the  fruits  become  stunted,  and  swell  irregularly  under  such 
conditions,  while  when  the  pipes  are  close  to  the  roots  the  soil  is  dried 
too  much  for  healthy  growth.  Be  careful  in  ventilating,  providing  it, 
however,  whenever  a  favourable  opportunity  offers,  but  exclude  air  when 
the  external  atmosphere  is  sharp  and  cold.  In  bright  but  cold  weather 
turn  off  the  top  heat  when  the  sun  is  powerful,  and  likely  to  raise  the 
temperature  above  80°  in  such  weather,  damping  the  house  morning  and 
afternoon,  and  closing  early.  Care  must  be  taken  in  damping,  so  as 
not  to  wet  the  embryo  fruits,  as  they  will  damp  if  water  remains  on 
them,  or  hangs  from  their  points  for  any  length  of  time.  Water  will 
be  required  at  the  roots  about  twice  a  week.  Maintain  a  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day. 
Winter  fruiters,  or  plants  from  August  or  September  sowings, 
having  grown  to  the  extent  of  the  trellis,  will  have  produced  some 
fruits  and  have  abundance  of  others  showing  or  swelling.  It  is  not, 
however,  a  good  plan  to  allow  the  plants  to  bear  to  any  great  extent 
for  some  time  unless  there  is  pressing  demand  for  fruit,  and  then  the 
cropping  will  tell  disastrously  on  the  supplies.  Winter  Cucumber 
plants  cannot  be  too  sturdy  in  growth  and  too  thick  and  leathery  in 
the  leaves,  but  they  may  be  too  luxuriant,  and  in  that  condition  highly 
susceptible  of  atmospheric  changes.  Attend  to  stopping  and  tying 
frequently,  thinning  to  avoid  overcrowding,  allowing  space  for  the 
unshaded  development  of  the  foliage.  If  canker  appear  subdue  it  by 
rubbing  powdered  quicklime  into  the  affected  part,  removing  every  bad 
leaf  and  decayed  growth  promptly,  rubbing  a  little  lime  on  the  wounds. 
If  mildew  appear  dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  or  preferably  a  fungicide 
in  powder  containing  sulphate  of  copper,  such  as  anti-blight,  it  being 
advisable  to  dust  some  over  the  plants  with  a  view  to  its  prevention. 
When  white  fly  is  first  seen  a  little  sulphur  formed  into  a  cream 
with  skim  milk  should  be  brushed  on  the  hot-water  pipes.  This  is 
equally  efficacious  against  mildew  and  spot  fungus  (Gloeosporium 
Lindemuthiannm),  which  sometimes  causes  brown  spots  on  the  fruits, 
and  then  they  grow  crooked  and  have  hard  flesh  in  places.  Sulphur 
fumes  are  also  disagreeable  to  red  spider,  and  in  no  wise  inimical  to 
Cucumbers  unless  the  hot-water  pipes  are  too  highly  heated,  and  the 
fumes  given  off  for  a  prolonged  period  at  a  high  temperature. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — All  plants  for  early  forcing  should  be  in 
frames.  They  cannot  have  too  much  air,  therefore  tilt  the  lights  in 
mild  weather,  and  remove  them  altogether  when  it  is  fair  and  warm, 
keeping  close  when  frost  prevails.  Do  not  place  them  in  Peach  or 
other  houses  where  they  will  be  subjected  to  drying  currents  of 
air.  Evaporation  in  such  is  excessive  and  constant,  wastes  the  energies 
of  the  plants,  and  not  infrequently  so  dries  the  soil  at  sides  of  the  pots 
as  to  destroy  the  active  feeders.  Drought  is  the  greatest  bane  of  the 
Strawberries ;  those  in  frames  must  have  water  as  required,  always 
keeping  the  soil  moderately  moist.  Plants  for  midseason  and  late 
forcing  are  just  as  well  stood  on  ashes,  and  plunged  over  the  rims  in 
that  material  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  the  situation  being  sheltered  but 
not  shaded. 
Plants  of  La  Grosse  Sucree,  Royal  Sovereign  and  Vioomtesse 
Hericart  de  Thury  must  be  held  in  readiness  for  starting  next  month 
where  early  fruit  is  required.  There  is  no  question  that  a  Strawberry 
house  is  the  most  suitable,  especially  when  pitted  with  stage  shelves,  so 
that  the  plants  will  be  aliout  a  foot  from  the  glass,  that  is  the  top  of 
the  pots  on  the  side  nearest  to  it,  as  the  wants  of  the  plants  can  be 
furnished  according  to  their  advantageous  requirements,  which  is  not 
always  the  case  when  the  plants  have  to  be  forced  in  vineries  or  Peach 
houses.  An  early  Peach  house  takes  a  good  number,  and  is 
particularly  suited  to  such  varieties  as  Noble  and  Auguste  Nicaise,  as 
they  do  not  bear  as  much  heat  in  the  early  stages  of  forcing  as  those 
named  above.  Plants  having  well  developed  crowns  and  abundant 
roots  should  be  selected,  as  only  these  give  a  satisfactory  issue. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
H.  P.  Boscher,  Belmont  Works,  Twickenham. — Horticultural  Buildings, 
Fisher,  Son  &  Sibray,  Ltd.,  Handsworth,  Sheffield. — Fruit  Trees,  Roses, 
and  Shrubs. 
Herb  &  Wulle,  Naples. —  Seeds. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  22,  Mary  Street,  Dublin. — Forest  Trees  and  Conifers, 
Kent  &  Brydon,  Darlington. — Forest,  Fruit,  and  Ornamental  Trees. 
W.  Wells  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  Earlswood. — Chrysanthemums. 
- - 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  mitre  court  chambers,  Fleet  Street^ 
Iiondon,  B.C.  It  is  requ- sted  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Judging  at  Chrysanthemum  Shows  (Not  Satisfied,  and  F.  J.). — We 
make  it  a  rule  never  to  reply  to  questions  of  this  nature  unless  a 
schedule  is  forwarded.  If  you  care  to  do  this  wo  will  do  our  best  to 
assist  you. 
Grapes  to  Name  (W.  B.). — The  samples  had  been  much  rubbed  and 
considerably  smashed  in  transit,  the  numbers  and  writing  on  the 
packages  being  almost  illegible.  This,  in  conjunction  with  the 
imperfect  ripening  of  the  fruit,  renders  identification  extremely 
difficult.  The  varieties  appear  to  be  : — No.  1,  Early  White  Malvasia ; 
No.  2,  Early  Green  Madeira ;  No.  3,  Ingram’s  Hardy  Prolific  Muscat ; 
No.  4,  Black  Prince. 
Coelogyne  cristata  with  Browned  Leaves  (F.  B.  L.). — The  cause  of 
the  leaves  browning  at  the  ends  is  water  lodging  there  for  a  considerable 
time,  this  destroying  the  tissues.  It  is  not  advisable,  therefore,  at  any 
time  to  syringe  the  plant,  always  supplying  water  without  wetting  the 
leaves.  When  growing,  the  temperature  of  the  cool  end  of  the  Cattleya 
house,  or  that  of  a  stove,  will  suit  this  plant  admirably,  but  during 
winter  it  should  be  kept  quite  cool.  It  is  not  advisable  to  supply 
artificial  manure.  Pot  or  pan  culture  is  the  most  suitable.  In  preparing 
these  good  drainage  must  be  carefully  provided,  as  although  the  plant 
requires  and  enjoys  a  liberal  supply  of  water  during  the  growing  season 
nothing  stagnant  or  sour  must  be  allowed  to  come  near  the  roots.  A 
good  compost  may  be  formed  of  about  equal  parts  living  sphagnum  and 
fibrous  peat,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  silver  sand.  The  plants  shonld 
be  raised  upon  a  moderate-sized  cone  above  the  rim  of  the  pot  or  pan,, 
and  then  firmly  pressed  down.  The  time  for  repotting  or  surfacing  is 
just  after  the  flowers  are  past.  Although,  as  before  stated,  the  plant 
requires  a  copious  supply  of  water  when  growing,  care  must  be  taken 
that  it  does  not  lie  in  the  centre  of  the  young  shoots,  or  they  will  be 
very  apt  to  decay. 
Datura  Stramonium  (W.  J.  R.). — This  plant  is  commonly  called  the 
Thorn  Apple  or  Stramonium.  It  is  an  acrid  narcotic,  belonging  to  the 
family  of  Nightshades.  It  is  found  wild  in  Britain,  having  escaped 
from  the  gardens,  and  its  habitat  is  generally  among  rubbish  and  on 
dunghills.  It  is  easily  known  by  its  large  oval  seed  vessels,  thickly 
covered  with  stout,  sharp  spines.  The  whole  plant  has  a  disagreeable,, 
nauseous,  and  heavy  odour,  particularly  when  bruised,  and  an  acrid 
bitter  taste.  It  loses  much  of  its  odour  by  drying,  but  retains  its 
properties.  When  taken  internally  in  moderate  doses  it  causes 
numbness,  vertigo,  dimness  of  vision,  dilation  of  the  pupils,  produces  a 
slight  delirium,  intoxication,  and  forgetfulness,  and  these  effects  pass 
off  in  five  or  six  hours ;  but  if  the  quantity  taken  be  large,  then  all  the 
symptoms  of  poisoning  are  presented,  as  heartburn,  intense  thirst,  a 
feeling  of  strangulation,  delirium,  madness,  convulsive  movements,  and 
paralysis;  congestion  of  the  brain  ensues,  symptoms  of  inflammation 
are  manifested,  and  death  follows  in  twelve  or  fifteen  hours.  M.  Orfila 
states  that  Stramonium  acts  with  more  force  on  the  brain  than 
Belladonna,  and  produces  more  furious  delirium.  Stramonium  smoked 
like  tobacco  is  a  popular  remedy  for  the  cure  of  asthma.  Its  use  in 
this  way  has  been  derived  from  the  East  Indies,  where  other  species 
are  used  for  this  purpose.  It  is  the  root  and  lower  parts  of  the  stem 
which  are  so  employed,  and  the  smoke  excites  a  sense  of  heat  in  the 
chest,  followed  by  copious  expectoration,  and  sometimes  attended  with 
temporary  vertigo  and  drowsiness.  The  seeds  have  the  same  nauseous 
bitter  taste  as  the  leaves,  and  in  them  Brandes  discovered  an  alkaline 
principle  called  Daturia,  combined  with  an  excess  of  malic  acid.  It  is 
in  the  form  of  colourless  crystals,  inodorous,  and  when  first  applied  to 
the  tongue  is  bitterish,  but  afterwards  of  the  taste  of  tobacco  ;  its  action 
is  poisonous. 
