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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  6,  1900, 
masses.  The  point  about  the  cutting  of  all  these  Roses  for  vase 
decoration  is  to  select  perfectly  formed  yet  small  buds,  not  fully 
developed  blossoms. 
For  extremely  late  cut-of-door  flowering  no  type  of  Rose  can 
compare  with  the  various  forms  of  China  (Rosa  indica),  such  as  the 
old  Blush  and  Crimson.  If  the  weather  is  at  all  mild  and  fairly  dry 
flowers  in  abundance  can  be  gathered  from  bushes  in  the  open  as  late  as 
Christmas.  At  Sandringham,  where  these  Roses  are  great  favourites, 
immense  quantities  are  gathered  yearly.  As  many  as  2000  blooms 
of  the  pink  variety  were  gathered  the  day  before  Christmas  last  year. 
To  obtain  a  succession  of  bloom  over  a  long  period  from  these  plants, 
directly  their  first  flush  of  flower  is  past  the  plants  are  pruned  slightly 
back,  which  induces  them  to  start  afresh  into  growth  and  subsequently 
into  flower. 
To  insure  success  in  the  culture  of  garden  Roses  the  same 
conditions  must  be  secured  as  for  other  types — viz.,  liberal  treatment 
as  to  strong  soil  and  abundance  of  manure.  Freshly  cut  turf,  decayed 
vegetable  refuse,  wood  ashes,  and  manure  are  essential  when  planting. 
With  this  type  of  Rose  it  is  a  continuance  of  vigour  in  successional 
growth  that  produces  continuous  blossom.  Soil  lacking  in  manurial 
properties  cannot  prove  successful,  and  many  failures  might  easily  be 
traced  to  this  cause.  .Early  planting  is  an  advantage,  as  new  roots 
quickly  form  in  the  autumn,  thus  enabling  the  plants  to  become 
established.  Couple  with  early  planting  a  thick  mulching  of  half- 
decayed  stable  manure,  and  close  pruning  the  first  year,  and  we  have 
the  salient  cultural  details.  To  assist  intending  planters  I  enumerate 
the  varieties  in  such  a  manner  as  to  classify  them  into  types  or 
sections. 
The  climbers  constitute  a  fast  increasing  section,  including  ever¬ 
green  varieties,  which  are  rarticularly  useful  when  covering  walls  and 
screens.  Crimson  Rambler  deserves- the  post  of  honour,  as  it  would 
be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  beautiful  object  in  any  garden  than 
this  brilliant  crimson,  almost  evergreen  variety.  One  caution  1  would 
give,  which  is,  not  to  put  Crimson  Rambler  against  a  wall,  as  it  is 
much  prone  to  red  spider  attacks.  Carmine  Pillar  is  a  grand 
companion  to  the  former,  although  the  flowers  are  single.  The  colour, 
a  vivid  rosy  carmine,  is  pleasing,  and  the  habit  of  growth  is  all  that 
could  be  desired  ;  shoots  12  feet  long  are  often  made  in  one  season. 
Euphrosyne,  commonly  named  the  Pink  Rambler,  is  a  charming 
variety,  quite  unique  in  its  colouring.  The  small  blossoms  open 
pink,  changing  to  carmine  and  bright  red  as  they  expand ;  the 
numerous  yellow  anthers  give  the  flowers  a  charming  appearance. 
The  habit  of  growth  is  vigorous,  carrying  much  foliage,  which  renders 
this  a  good  vaiiety  for  a  pergola  or  an  upright  pole.  Aglaia  is  termed 
the  Yellow  Rambler,  but  I  am  disappointed  in  its  colouring ;  it  is  a 
dirty  white  or  very  faint  yellow,  yet  of  vigorous  habit  and  valuable 
for  covering  space. 
Aimee  Vibert  continues  the  display  of  its  pure  white  clusters  into 
the  autumn,  and  is  enhanced  by  its  evergreen  foliage.  Claire  Jacquier, 
nankeen  yellow,  carries  small  flowers,  freely  produced ;  it  is  a  strong 
climber,  good  for  arches  or  trellises.  Longworth  Rambler  is,  perhapsj 
more  continuous  flowering  than  any  other  variety  of  climbing  Rose. 
Seldom  can  a  vigorous  plant  be  found  without  a  flower  upon  it.  The 
colour  is  pleasing,  too — deep  crimson.  Morleti,  with  its  large,  semi¬ 
double,  rose-coloured  Boursault  blossoms,  deserves  a  place  in  any 
garden.  Dr.  Rouges  is  a  Tea  variety  with  deep  red  orange  colo  ired 
shading.  The  Hybrid  Tea  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg  has  vivid  red 
semi-double  flowers;  it  is  of  vigorous  habit.  Psyche  is  an  English 
raised  seedling  from  Crimson  Rambler,  the  colour  pale  losy  pink 
suffused  at  the  base  of  the  petals  with  salmon  and  yellow.  Reine 
Marie  Henriette,  deep  carmine,  long  pointed  bud  of  good  shape,  is 
one  of  the  best  red  climbing  Roses.  F4licil4  Perpetue,  creamy  while, 
beautiful,  small,  and  full.  Polyantha  simplex  and  P.  grandiflora 
are  both  magnificent  single-fl(  wered  pure  white  varieties.  This  list 
cannot  be  complete  without  the  inclusion  of  The  Garland,  or  Hybrid 
Musk  Rose,  colour  nankeen  and  pink,  changing  to  white,  small, 
semi-double,  produced  in  huge  bunches. — E.  Molyneux. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
Greenliouse  Tropaeolams. 
All  are  agreed  as  to  the  desirability  of  variety,  especially  of  colour, 
in  the  decoration  of  greenhouses  and  conservatories ;  and  this  object 
should  be  aimed  at  as  much  in  winter  as  summer — indeed,  to  my  mind 
more  so  at  the  former  than  the  latter  season,  for  we  have  in  winter 
fewer  flowering  plants  to  choose  from. 
Tropaeolums  are  plants  of  easy  management,  and  when  once  a 
person  understands  their  mode  of  treatment  they  can  be  so  managed 
as  to  add  much  to  the  decorative  effect  of  the  greenhouse.  Where  I 
first  became  acquainted  with  this  class  of  plants  they  were  held  in 
high  estimation,  and  great  care  was  bestowed,  particularly  in 
propagating  them.  This  was  done  by  taking  off  the  young  and 
tender  points  of  their  growth,  inserting  them  in  pure  white  sand,  kept 
moist,  under  bell-glasses,  where  a  moderate  bottom  heat  could  be 
maintained.  It  required  a  watchful  eye  to  make  them  succeed  well ; 
and  when  they  did  form  their  small  tubers  it  was  some  years  before 
they  could,  from  their  size  and  strength,  give  much  flower,  however 
desirable  it  was  to  have  them  blooming  in  winter,  with  their  singular 
yet  very  pretty  colours. 
About  fourteen  years  ago  I  went  to  live  in  a  part  of  the  country 
where  a  neighbour  was  skilled  in  growing  Tropaeolums,  and  I  will 
now  very  briefly  detail  his  practice,  remarking  that,  from  my  friend’s 
success  in  their  cultivation,  I  was  induced  to  try  the  same  mode.  It 
is  now  more  than  ten  years  ago,  and  I  have  not  yet  had  any  reason  to 
abandon  this  line  of  treatment. 
Supposing  that  we  have  four  ordinary-sized  tubers  or  roots  of 
tricolor  or  Jarratti  that  we  wish  to  grow,  each  tuber  in  a  separate 
pot,  and  are  likewise  desirous  of  increasing  them  whilst  having  as 
many  flowers  upon  them  as  they  can  produce,  proceed  as  follows : — 
Take  some  good  fresh  turfy  soil,  with  a  little  fibrous  peat  chopped  rather 
small,  and  a  good  portion  of  silver  sand,  all  well  mixed  together,  so 
as  to  be  a  nice  fibrous  mixture,  such  as  will  not  be  too  close  or  become 
sodden.  Having  the  compost  all  ready,  the  next  proceeding  is  to  take 
four  pots,  about  8  or  9  inches  in  diameter  at  the  top,  to  drain  them 
well,  placing  moss  or  some  similar  material  over  the  drainage,  and 
then  to  fill  the  pot  rather  more  than  half  full  of  the  compost.  Place 
the  root  into  this,  having  the  crown  of  the  tuber  nearly  covered,  so 
that  you  can  see  when  it  begins  to  grow.  A  strong  root  will  often 
give  several  shoots  or  growths.  Let  them  proceed,  and  when  they  are 
6  or  8  inches  long  put  in  the  stake  or  wire  trellis  on  which  the  plant  is 
to  grow,  as  if  delayed  longer  the  growths  of  the  plant  might  be 
injured  in  putting  in  the  trellis,  owing  to  their  being  covered  with 
soil.  The  trellis  having  been  put  in,  the  next  proceeding  is  to  lay  the 
young  growth  or  growths  across  the  soil  in  the  pots,  carefully  covering 
them  over  with  the  same  kind  of  soil;  and  as  they  grow  turn 
them  from  side  to  side  in  the  pot,  gradually  letting  them  rise  higher 
to  the  top  of  the  pot,  and  of  course  adding  more  soil  each  time. 
When  done  in  this  way,  carefully  bending  them  where  there  is  a 
joint  in  the  slender  stem,  they  will  generally  form  a  little  bulb  at 
every  joint. 
Now  to  give  an  outline  of  how  my  friend  grew  his  pots  of 
Tropseolums.  He  generally  had  his  in  pots  from  12  to  16  inches  in 
diameter,  and  had  the  compost  much  the  same  as  that  which  I  have 
described.  Int)  the  large  pots  he  often  placed  an  inverted  3-inch 
pot  at  the  bottom,  and  filled  in  an  inch  thick  of  potsherds.  Over  this 
he  placed  some  moss,  and  then  filled  the  pots  three  parts  full,  or  rather 
more,  before  he  put  in  the  tubers.  Into  the  largest  pots  he  would  put 
s’x  or  eight  good-sized  roots,  just  covering  them  over,  and  placing 
them  in  a  circle  about  an  inch  from  the  top.  After  they  were  started, 
and  6  or  8  inches  long,  he  put  in  the  top  of  a  compactly  grown  Larch 
tree,  perhaps  from  3^  t  j  4^  feet  high,  or  the  top  of  a  Holly  tree  from 
which  all  the  leaves  had  been  carefully  removed,  and'  as  the  plants 
grew  he  covered  them  over  with  the  same  kind  of  compos*-,  still 
inclining  them  towards  the  stem  of  the  Larch  tree  on  which  they  were 
to  grow.  He  allowed  them  to  ramble  all  over  it,  and  in  this  way  the 
plants  produced  a  charming  effect  in  a  conservatory. — D.  G. 
