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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  13,  1900. 
trees  hein^  of  spreading  habit  and  on  free  st'  cks.  For  cordon  trained 
trees  5  or  6  feet  wide  borders  suffice,  even  for  the  longest  cordon,  and 
3  feet  is  quite  enough  for  short  cordons,  and  also  for  wall  trained 
Gooseberries,  Red  and  White  Currants. 
Distances  for  Planting. 
Horizontally  trained  Apples  and  Pears  on  free  stocks  should  be 
planted  20  to  24  feet  apart  against  walls  12  feet  high,  6  feet  less  in 
(iistance  on  lower  walls  or  espalier  fences ;  on  the  dwarf  stocks  12  feet 
apart.  Apricots,  Cherries,  Nectarines,  Peaches,  and  PI  uns  15  to  20  feet 
asunder,  the  form  of  trees  being  dwarf  trained  fan-shaped  ;  upright 
and  diagonal  cordons  may  be  planted  18  inches  to  2  feet  apart.  Bush 
or  pyramid  Apples  on  the  Paradise  stock  should  be  p’anted  6  feet 
asunder.  Pyramid  Pears  on  the  Pear  stock  10  feet  apart,  on  the 
Quince  6  feet.  Cherries  on  the  Mahaleb  stock  may  be  6  feet  asunder. 
Trees  on  dwarfi  g  stocks  that  make  strong  growths  readily  should  he 
regularly  root-pruned,  this  being  necessary  in  some  cases  to  induce 
and  maintain  a  fruitful  character. 
Selection  of  Trees. 
Selecting  trees  is  a  matter  of  juc^gment.  Trained  trees— those 
which  have  had  timely  regulation  of  the  growths — are  better  than 
untrained  of  similar  age,  and  for  general  purposes  should  be  purchased 
when  two  or  three  years  old.  In  the  case  of  untrained  trees,  even 
maidens,  time  is  lost  in  pruning  and  training  in  order  to  lay  a 
foundation  of  branches.  Fruit  nurserymen  of  repute  prepare  properly 
trained  fruit  trees  in  almost  every  shape  the  purchaser  can  desire  for 
planting  against  walls,  fences,  espaliers,  and  in  the  open.  In  selecting 
it  is  well  to  secure  trees  that  have  made  a  good  growth  of  medium 
strength,  and  have  clean  wood.  The  roots  usually  correspond  with  the 
heads,  such  trees  having  a  number  of  fibres,  and  being  carefully  lifted, 
the  roots  kept  from  the  atmosphere  as  much  as  possible,  they 
transplant  readily  and  grow  freely.  It  is  neither  advisable  to  select 
trees  with  strong  growths  nor  those  that  are  stunted.  In  lifting  the 
trees  the  holes  for  the  trees  should  be  dug  wide  and  shallow  before 
uncovering  the  roots,  for  it  is  important  that  these  be  not  long 
exposed,  as  they  lose  vitality  under  the  influence  of  drying  air. 
Planting. 
Previous  to  planting  examine  the  roots,  and  cut  all  bruised,  jagged, 
or  torn  ends  smoothly  across  in  order  that  the  wounds  may  quickly 
heal  and  fresh  fibres  be  emitted.  Form  a  “seat”  for  each  tree  by 
placing  in  some  good  soil,  such  as  fibrous  loam  with  the  grass  reduced 
and  a  little  wood  ashes  mixed  with  it,  or  some  well  ameliorated  mould 
may  be  taken  from  the  surrounding  surface  The  position  should  be 
of  such  height  that  when  the  tree  is  introduced  and  the  roots  covered, 
its  collar  or  junction  of  the  stem  with  the  soil  will  be  at  the  same  level 
as  it  was  before,  as  indicated  by  the  soil-mark  on  the  root-stem.  Make 
the  soil  firm  before  placing  the  tree  in  the  hole,  and  spread  the  roots 
out  in  layers  to  their  full  extent  with  a  slight  downward  inclination. 
Work  the  soil  amongst  the  fibres  carefully’^  in  an  outward  direction,  so 
that  their  jioints  are  not  twisted  backwaids,  and  let  the  upper  layer  of 
roots  be  within  4  inches  of  the  surface.  Make  firm  about  the  roots  and 
over  them,  but  not  immediately  on  the  surface,  as  this  is  best  left  rather 
loose  for  rain  and  air  to  enter  freely.  Stake  the  trees  securely,  as  wind 
disturbance  disarranges  the  roots.  A  light  mulching  of  short  littery 
manure  from  the  stem  to  a  little  beyond  the  spread  of  the  roots  will 
serve  the  fourfold  purpose  of  conserving  the  soil’s  heat  and  moisture, 
preventing  the  entrance  of  frost,  enriching  the  surface  soil,  and  inducing 
the  fresh  roots  to  push  freely  therein. 
Securing  Wall  Trees. 
Wall  trees  should  not  be  nailed  or  tied  permanently  in  position  at 
planting,  as  the  soil  will  sink,  and  opportunity  must  be  allowed  for 
the  trees  to  settle  with  it.  A  few  loose  ties  are  sufficient  to  keep 
cordon,  tan-shaped,  and  horizontal-trained  trees  in  position  until  the 
soil  consolidates,  this  being  effected  by  the  time  shortening  of  the 
growths  requires  to  be  done  in  early  spring,  when  the  main  nailing  or 
tying-in  should  be  performed. 
Fruit  Trees  in  Grass. 
Where  it  is  intended  to  plant  fruit  trees  in  grass  the  turf  should  be 
pared  off  within  a  ciicle  of  6  to  9  feet  in  diameter,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  trees  and  the  nature  of  the  soil.  In  most  cases  the  top 
spit  soil  will  be  good,  therefore  place  it  on  one  side,  and  the  spit 
below’  ( n  the  other  ;  then  break  up  the  bottom,  and  if  very  stiff  and 
clayey  remove  some  of  the  worst,  and  fill  with  better  material.  Top- 
spit  soil  tn  m  well-enriched  fields  or  gardens,  mixed  with  road  scrapiings 
and  old  mortar  rubbish,  forms  suitable  material.  In  some  cases  it 
may  be  necessary  to  place  in  urainage  of  a  coarse  description,  when  a 
layer  of  mortar  rubbish  is  useful  over  it;  but  it  is  no  use  providing 
the  drainage  unless  connected  with  a  tile  drain  having  pToper  fall  and 
outlet.  Return  the  toj)  spits,  adding  to  them  turfy  loam.  The 
stations  thus  prepared  will  be  higher  than  the  surrounding  grass, 
which  is  a  decided  advantage,  especially  on  heavy  and  wet  soils.  At 
planting  time,  for  the  stations  should  be  made  in  advance,  drive  a 
strong  stake  into  the  centre  of  each  hole,  and  plant  the  tree  against 
that,  securing  with  ligatures  that  do  not  cut  the  hark.  Spread  the 
roots  out  carefully,  pruning  damaged  ends,  and  not  burying  the  stem 
deeper  than  before.  The  trees  most  suitable  for  orchards  are 
Standards,  the  stems  being  6  feet  high.  They  should  be  planted  24  to 
30  feet  asunder.  The  surface  to  the  extent  of  the  circles  is  better 
mulched  with  short  manure,  and  this  part  ought  to  be  kept  clear  of 
grass  and  weeds  until  the  trees  are  fully  established. 
Small  Frui's. 
In  the  matter  of  small  fruits  a  richer  soil  is  required  at  first  than 
is  advisable  for  other  fruit  trees.  The  ground,  therefore,  is  usually 
trenched  as  deeply  as  the  good  soil  allows,  stirring,  if  not  bringing  up 
the  bottom,  and  turning  in  abundance  of  rich  material,  consisting  of 
decayed  manure,  old  turf,  and  vegetable  compost.  The  soil  is  thus 
prepared  for  Currants,  Gooseberries,  Raspberries,  and  Strawberries  in 
order  to  secure  a  good  plant  that  will  come  quickly  into  full  profit. 
Currants  and  Gooseberries  should  be  planted  5  feet  asunder,  this 
giving  room  for  cultural  operations  and  ease  in  gathering  the  crops. 
Raspberries  are  usually  planted  in  lines  or  clumps,  the  former  5  apart 
and  the  latter  3  feet  between,  in  rows  5  or  6  feet  asunder. 
Times  of  Planting. 
The  planting  of  fruit  trees  and  bushes  may  be  carried  on  quite 
safely  at  any  time  from  the  fall  of  the  leaves  until  the  sw’elling  of 
the  buds  in  the  spring,  always  provided  the  weather  is  mild,  the 
ground  not  frozen,  and  the  soil  in  good  working  fgder.  Very  early 
autumn  and  very  late  spring  planting  may  be  feasible  when  the  trees 
or  hushes  can  be  planted  almost  as  soon  as  lifted,  bnt  if  they  have  to 
travel  considerable  distances  neither  practice  is  commendable. — G.  A. 
- - 
Veitcli’s  “manual  of  Coniferae.” 
In  the  form  of  a  large  octavo  of  some  550  pages,  Messrs.  James 
Veitch  &  Sons  have  put  forth  a  new  and  greatly  enlarged  edition  of 
their  “  Manual  of  Coniferm.”  Specialists  in  this  line  who  have  already 
some  acquaintance  with  the  first  edition  will  not  fail  to  welcome  the 
advent  of  the  present  work  as  bringing  ua  the  latest  information  upon 
this  very  popular  order  of  timber  trees.  When  using  the  word  “timber’’ 
due  regard  must,  however,  be  had  to  the  fact  that  many  of  the  recent 
introductions  of  Conifer®  are  still  in  the  probationary  stage  as  respects 
their  utility  for  this  purpose.  Some  of  them  serve  for  little  other 
than  firewood  or  fencing  purposes  when  their  beauty  has  disappeared 
or  their  vitality  has  become  exhausted  upon  uncongenial  soils. 
But  it  is  not  from  the  more  serious  aspect  of  afforestation  that  the 
Conifers  have  of  recent  years  attracted  so  much  attention.  They  will, 
no  doubt,  after  years  of  acclimatisation  reveal  their  capabilities  in  this 
respect  and  contribute  their  quota  to  our  ever-increasing  stock  of 
timber  trees.  In  the  meanwhile,  however,  their  rapid  growth  and  their 
almost  invariably  graceful  habit  during  their  early  years  must  render 
them  prodigiously  popular  with  every  ornamental  and  landscape 
gardener. 
When  we  look  back  upon  the  history  of  gardening  during  the  last 
seventy  years,  we  can  note  how  the  development  of  the  art  has  kept  pace 
with  the  advance  in  our  social  and  political  conditions.  With  the 
extension  of  the  empire  and  the  increase  of  wealth  came  the  growth  of 
Suburbia  round  every  city.  This  Suburbia  gradually  blends  into  a  zone 
of  more  important  residences,  scarcely  to  be  dignified  with  the  name  of 
country  seats,  while  farther  out  are  to  be  met  the  imposing  homes  of 
the  aristocracy  and  gentry,  such  as  the  country  alone  showed  during 
the  period  of  the  Georges.  It  was  necessary,  then,  that  if  these  many 
gardens  were  to  be  made  really  attractive  in  the  dead  season  that 
something  other  than  flowering  plants  and  deciduous  trees  should  be 
discovered.  If  nothing  bad  been  done  most  gardens  would  during  five 
months  of  the  year  have  differed  little  in  their  funereal  aspect  from 
that  of  a  churchyard,  and  indeed,  judging  from  old  illustrations  of 
celebrated  mansions,  a  very  considerable  dullness  must  have  reigned, 
over  the  landscape  during  the  winters  of  our  forefathers.  Even  the 
vaunted  spring  of  the  Elizabethian  poets  must  have  had  nothing  to  show 
comparable  to  the  glories  of  the  flowering  shrubs  displayed  by  our 
modern  gardens  during  May  in  this  age  of  Victoria. 
Therefore  it  may  truly  be  said  that  among  the  many  wonderful 
changes  of  this  our  era  none  have  contributed  more  to  alter  and 
beautify  the  face  of  our  England  than  the  introduction  of  Conifers  and 
