JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  1.'^,  1900. 
54  + 
about  10  feet  apart.  They  are  best  obtained  ready  shaped,  with 
branches  at  equal  distances  of  a  foot  between  them,  and  of  the  same 
length.  They  ought  to  have  five  branches  trained  upright  from  two 
horizontal  extensions  at  the  top  of  a  dwarf  stem.  In  good  healthy 
trees  the  base  of  the  branches  will  be  furnished  with  fruit  buds,  and 
after  the  trees  become  established  they  will  grow  and  bear  freely  if  the 
simple  requirements  of  stopping  side  shoots  in  summer  and  shortening 
in  winter  are  adopted,  as  with  other  trained  trees. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — To  have  ripe  fruit  of  the 
standard  forcing  varieties,  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  Stirling  Castle, 
Dymond,  Royal  George,  and  Grosse  Mignonne  Peaches  ;  Early  Rivers, 
Lord  Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  and  Dryden  Nectarines ;  there  must 
be  no  further  delay  in  putting  on  the  roof-lights  and  closing  the 
house.  The  very  early  Peaches,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  and 
Early  Louise,  with  Cardinal  Nectarine  started  at  the  same  time  will 
afford  fruit  a  month  earlier  under  the  same  forcing  conditions,  indeed 
they  may  be  grown  so  as  to  produce  fruit  in  about  thirteen  weeks  from 
starting,  the  buds  being  then  well  advanced  in  swelling,  as  early  forced 
trees  usually  are,  by  what  is  known  as  hard  forcing. 
Trees  started  at  an  early  date  in  previous  years  swell  their  buds 
promptly  without  much  excitement  from  artificial  heat,  but  those  forced 
for  the  first  time  are  slower  in  starting  into  flower.  These  must  not  be 
hurried,  and  with  the  buds  swelling  and  advancing  for  flowering  the 
atmosphere  must  not  be  kept  nearly  so  close,  as  it  is  important  the 
buds  advance  steadily  and  have  time  to  develop  flowers  perfect  in  all 
their  parte.  When  the  atmosphere  is  kept  close  and  too  moist  the 
blossoms  are  drawn  and  weakly  if  the  temperature  is  too  high  ;  if  low 
little  progress  is  made,  and  the  fructifying  organs  aie  stunted  and 
effete.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  above 
60°  it  should  be  increased  correspondingly  with  the  temperature,  but 
not  allowing  it  to  decline  below  60°  in  the  daytime,  sufficient  artificial 
heat  being  employed  for  that  purpose,  and  with  sun  heat  an  advance 
may  be  allowed  to  65°,  closing  for  the  day  before  the  tempeiature  has 
receded  below  55°.  A  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  is  ample  at  night,  and 
in  mild  weather  50°. 
When  the  flowers  are  advanced  so  that  the  anthers  are  shrwing 
cease  syringing,  but  afford  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  by 
damping  the  borders  and  paths  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon. 
Avoid  a  stagnant  atmosphere  at  any  time,  but  especially  at  night  with 
a  high  temperature.  Examine  the  inside  border,  making  sure  that 
there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture.  If  necessary  afford  a  thorough 
supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure.  The  surface  soil  is  often 
deceptive,  being  kept  moist  by  syringing,  therefore  supply  enough  to 
moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage,  for  surface  sprinklings  do  very 
little  good. 
Trees  often  have  very  weakly  blossoms,  and  fail  to  set  in  conse¬ 
quence  of  water  being  given  to  the  tops  instead  ot  to  the  roots.  If 
there  be  a  superfluity  of  flower  buds,  remove  those  on  the  under  sides  of 
the  trellis  by  drawing  the  hand  (gloved)  the  reverse  way  of  the  growths. 
This  will  materially  assist  the  swelling  of  the  remaining  buds.  If  there 
are  any  traces  of  aphides,  fumigate  the  house  on  two  or  three  consecutive 
evenings  before  the  flowers  are  much  advanced  in  colour,  always  before 
the,petals  unfold  ;  and  the  atmosphere  must  be  dry,  or  the  moisture 
will  be  condensed  on  the  cooler  surface  of  the  flowers,  and  they  will  be 
discoloured  or  injured. 
Second  Early  Forced  House. — If  the  trees  are  very  early  varieties, 
as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with  Cardinal 
Nectarine,  fruit  may  be  had  in  late  April  or  early  in  May  by  startinar  at 
the  new  year.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  trees  are  such  as  Hale’s 
Early,  Early  Alfred,  Dr.  Hogg,  Rivers’  Early  York,  A  Bee,  Stirling 
Castle,  Royal  George,  Dymond,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Crimson  Galande, 
Alexandra  Noblesse,  and  Bellegarde  Peaches  ;  Early  Rivers,  Lord 
Napier,  Goldoni,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt,  Dryden,  or  Pineapple 
Nectarines,  the  fruit  will  not  ripen  until  May  is  well  advanced  and 
during  June.  This  must  be  taken  into  consideration  by  growers.  In 
either  case,  and  the  trees  not  having  been  forced  before,  the  house 
should  be  closed  at  once,  fire  heat  only  being  used  to  exclude  frost,  the 
trees  being  sprinkled  occasionally,  or  on  flue  mornings  and  afternoons, 
allowing  time  for  them  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Keeping 
the  trees  constantly  dripping  with  water,  especially  at  night,  enfeebles 
the  blossoms,  and  conduces  to  wood  bud  rather  than  blossom  bud 
development.  Do  not  allow  the  temperature  to  exceed  50°  in  the 
daytime  without  full  ventilation.  Trees  previously  fo'ced  will  not  need 
the  preparatory  process,  but  start  readily  at  the  accustomed  time. 
Supply  water  or  liquid  manure  to  inside  borders,  and  protect  outside 
ones  with  a  few  inches  thickness  of  leaves  and  litter  on  top  to  keep 
them  from  blowing  about. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
H.  Cannell  &  Sons,  Swanley. —  ^ioldeii  Seeds. 
C.  Platz  &  S  ns,  Erfurt. — Trade  Seed  List. 
Sutton  &  Sons,  Reading. — A'naieur’s  Guide  in  Hort’culfure. 
Vilmorin,  Audrieux  &  Co.,  4,  Quai  de  la  Megisserie,  Paris. — Seeds  of 
Trees  and  Shrubs. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  iz,  iMCltre  Court  Cbambers,  Fleet  Street, 
Xondon,  E.C.  It  is  requ  sted  thut  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Chrysanthemum  Robert  Owen  (Wyfold). — It  has  been  decided  that 
this  shall  be  classed  with  the  Japanese  incurved  for  all  exhibition 
purposes,  and  while  the  line  of  distinction  between  this  and  the  incurved 
section  is  not  very  clear,  we  think  that  a  flower  such  as  you  forwarded 
would  be  quite  out  of  place  amongst  the  latter.  We  congratulate  you 
on  the  production  of  such  an  excellent  bloom. 
Poinsettias  Failing  (J.  P.). —  As  the  plants  were  so  sturdy  and 
vigorous  by  being  grown  outdoors  in  the  summer,  we  can  only  sqggest 
that  their  failure  to  produce  good  bracts  is  the  result  of  the  plants 
being  left  out  too  long.  When  they  remain  in  cold  positions  until  the 
leaves  droop  growth  ceases,  and  the  roots  first  become  torpid,  then 
shrivel  or  decay.  If  you  examine  the  roots  of  your  plants,  and  they  are 
dead  or  brown  in  colour,  you  may  conclude  we  have  either  indicated 
the  cause  of  the  failure  or  you  have  given  them  an  overdose  of  liquid 
manure.  We  feel  confident  the  roots  are  not  fresh  and  active,  in  which 
case  it  is  impossible  that  large  whorls  of  brilliant  bracts  can  be 
produced. 
Wireworm  in  Loam  for  Vine  Border  (W.  A.  A.). — The  best  thing 
wejinow  to  destroy  wireworm  is  mustard  dross,  an  article  to  be  had  from 
mustard  manufacturers.  It  also  has  a  prejudicial  effect  on  vegetation, 
therefore  must  not  be  used  in  excessive  amount.  The  turf  should 
be  laid  a  single  thickness  deep,  and  about  the  eighth  of  an  ounce 
sprinkled  on  each  square  yard,  and  the  turves  thus  treated  can  be 
chopped  up.  The  small  quantity  named  has  not  been  found  to 
have  any  injurious  effects.  If  you  have  difficulty  in  procuring  mustard 
dross  employ  kainit,  2  ozs.  per  square  yard  on  a  single  thickness  of 
turves,  and  if  4  ozs.  basic  cinder  phosphate  be  added  it  will  be  an 
advantage,  then  chopping  up  and  mixing.  After  the  border  is  made  up 
it  is  well  to  take  the  ordinary  precaution  of  inserting  some  Carrot 
traps  about  2  inches  beneath  the  border  surface,  so  as  to  attract  and 
capture  any  remaining  wireworms,  and  thus  keep  them  from  attacking 
the  roots. 
Persimmon  (  H'.  H.)  — The  Persimmon  properly  is  the  Virginian 
Date  Plum  (Diospyros  viginiana).  but  the  term  is  frequently  applied 
to  the  Japanese  species  (D.  Kaki).  The  Virginian  Persimmon 
grows  20  to  30  feet  in  height,  and  is  hardy.  The  fl  jwers  are  pale 
Aellow,  produced  in  July,  and  the  fruit  is  golden  yellow;  s-ize 
and  form  of  a  common  Plum.  It  grows  readily  from  seed,  and  is 
best  in  tlie  form  of  a  low  standard.  The  Japanese  Persimmon, 
of  which  there  are  several  varieties,  is  of  lower  stature,  the  tree 
attaining  to  a  height  of  12  to  20  feet.  The  flowers  are  whitish 
green,  but  inconspicuous.  Fruit  yellow  when  ripe,  glob 'se,  eight- 
celled,  size  of  small  Orange,  abounding  in  yellow,  fleshy,  edible 
pulp  ;  it  is  tolerably  pleasant.  It  is  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  the 
tree  is  hardy  in  the  extreme  south  of  England  and  in  the  Channel 
Islands.  In  other  parts  of  the  country  it  is  grown  in  an  orchard  house, 
especially  in  the  southern  parte  of  the  country,  and  iu  a  cool  house  in 
the  northern.  It,  however,  is  seldom  met  with.  It  may  be  grown  as  a 
low  standard,  and  succeeds  in  any  good  fruit  soil. 
Grapes  for  Market— Yield  per  Acre  {A.  B.  C.). —A  great  question 
can  be  asked  on  a  small  card.  Some  of  the  largest  Gratie  growing 
establishments  in  the  vicinity  of  London  are  Mr.  Joseph  Rochford’s, 
Mr.  Thomas  Rochford’s,  Mr.  Peier  Kay’s,  Mr.  J.  Sweet’s,  Mr.  Edward 
Rochford’s,  Mr.  T.  Hamilton’s,  Mr.  John  Wood’s,  Mr.  E.  Bennett’s,  Mr, 
B.  B.  JMay’s,  and  Mr.  P.  Ladd’s.  In  addition  to  these  there  are  other 
noted  growers.  Many  tons  of  Grapes  also  come  fiom  Worthing.  As 
to  the  extent  of  the  culture  and  weight  of  Grapes  pro  iuced  annually 
we  have  access  to  no  better  estimates  than  those  of  Mr.  W.  E.  Bear, 
as  published  in  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  Society  last  year. 
They  are  based  on  the  best  information  that  the  diligent  author  could 
obtain  by  visits  to  the  several  establishments.  Judging  from  certain 
precise  statements, of  actual  production,  corroborated  by  such  evidence 
as  could  be  gathered  from  many  growers,  Mr.  Bear  concluded  that 
14  tons  per  acre  is  an  average  yield  of  Grapes  by  Vines  in  fu.l 
bearing  (though  he  found  a  record  of  over  19  tons).  Making, 
however,  a  liberal  allowance  for  young  and  failing  Viue.s,  12  toi:S  per 
acre  is  taken  as  the  average  production  of  an  estimated  area  of 
350  acres  of  Vines  under  glass  giving  a  total  annual  yield  of  4200  tons  of 
Grapes;  this  is  nearly  9i  million  pounds.  If  you  are  thinking  of  sharing 
in  this  industry  you  will  fiud  formidable  competitors,  and  you  must  be 
prepared  to  grow  really  good  Grapes  for  selling  at  low  prices. 
