560 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  20,  1900^ 
Cnitnre  of  B(aidenliair  Ferns. 
The  popularity  of  the  Ferns,  and  especially  of  the  Maidenhair,  has 
become  more  marked  within  the  last  few  years.  They  are  not  nearly 
so  troublesome  to  cultivate  as  they  were  at  one  time  considered  to  be. 
As  persons  become  better  acquainted  with  the  habits  and  uses  of  this 
beautiful  class  of  plants,  they  will  be  still  more  largely  grown,  and  the 
cottager  will  attempt  to  cultivate  small  plants  of  the  graceful  Maiden¬ 
hairs  (Adiantums)  to  mix  with  the  scarlet-flowered  Zonal  Pelargoniums 
(“  Geraniums  ”)  that  generally  adorn  his  window  during  the  early 
spring  and  summer  months.  The  Maidenhair  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
greenhouse  Ferns,  Adiantum  cuneatum  being  the  species  generally 
grown  under  this  popular  name.  It  was  found  in  the  year  1820.  The 
Maidenhair  received  its  name  from  the  various  decoctions  made  from 
the  stalks  of  the  old  English  Maidenhair,  Adiantum  capillus- Veneris, 
for  restoring  the  hair,  and  also  for  preventing  its  coming  off.  Coles, 
writing  in  the  year  1657,  says,  “  The  lye  wherein  Maidenhair  is 
sodden  or  infused  is  good  to  bathe  the  head  and  make  the  hair  come 
thicker  in  those  places  which  are  more  thin  and  bare.”  Other  plants 
at  various  times  have  received  the  name  of  Maidenhair,  but  at  the 
present  time  Adiantum  cuneatum  is  generally  referred  to  under  that 
name. 
[Soli  and  Potting. 
The  soil  should  consist  of  fibrous,  mellow  loam,  with  a  small 
quantity  of  horse  dropping.®,  together  with  enough  of  either  sharp 
sand,  cinders,  charcoal,  or  broken  bricks  to  make  the  whole  thoroughlv 
porous  for  the  water  to.  readily  drain  away.  The  loam  should  be 
broken  to  pieces  by  the  hand,  and  afterwards  sifted  so  that  no  fine 
particles  remain.  This  soil  will  be  found  to  suit  the  wants  of  the 
Maidenhair  admirably,  therefore  I  recommend  it  to  be  used  for  all 
pottings.  The  pots  must  be  clean,  and  if  they  have  been  used  before 
they  must  be  washed  and  scrubbed  inside  and  out,  not  only  for  the  sake 
of  appearance,  but  for  the  well-being  of  the  plants ;  if  placed  in  dirty, 
wet  pots,  the  next  time  potting  takes  pl»ce  it  will  be  found  impossible 
to  remove  the  plant  without  leaving  a  quantity  of  soil  and  roots 
adhering  to  the  sides,  and  the  plant  will  be  some  time  before  it 
recovers  from  the  check  it  thus  receives.  If  new  pots  are  used,  they 
should  be  thoroughly  soaked,  till  they  can  absorb  no  more  water, 
then  be  taken  out  and  allowed  to  become  dry  ;  if  the  plant  is  potted 
without  this  being  done,  the  pot  will  rob  the  ball  of  the  plant  of  its 
moisture  when  the  surface  soil  appears  to  be  quite  wet  enough.  Do 
not  paint  the  pots,  as  this  not  only  makes  them  unsightly,  but  prevents 
the  roots  from  acquiring  air  through  the  sides  of  the  pots,  which  are, 
of  course,  air-tight,  and  almost  as  bad  as  if  they  had  been  glazed. 
In  crocking  place  a  hollow  potsherd,  oystershell,  or  anything  in  this 
way  suitable  for  allowing  the  water  to  escape  freely,  then  till  round  with  a 
layer  of  others  till  there  is  sufficient  drainage.  The  amount  depends 
upon  the  size  of  the  pots ;  judgment  must  be  exercised  in  pot-crocking. 
After  this  has  been  done  place  a  layer  of  moss  or  leaves  on  the  top  to 
prevent  the  soil  from  washing  among  the  crocks  and  choking  the 
drainage.  Moss  is  much  the  better,  as  this  material  will  last  longer 
than  partly  decayed  leaves,  and  on  this  account  is  more  suitable  v'heu 
plants  have  to  remain  in  the  same  pots  for  a  long  while,  as  Ferns 
sometimes  have  to  do  when  the  space  is  limited. 
Potting  should  be  done  about  February  if  it  can  be  managed  ; 
but  a  better  guide  for  amateurs  will  be  to  advise  potting  when  the 
young  fronds  begin  to  push  up,  as  the  roots  will  then  be  found 
making  a  fresh  start,  and  they  will  soon  re-establish  them¬ 
selves.  Be  carelul  to  prick  round  the  balls  of  the  plants  so  as  to 
loosen  the  roots  and  give  them  a  better  chance  of  entering  the 
new  soil.  If  the  plants  are  dry  give  a  good  soaking  of  water  before 
potting  takes  place,  and  allow  them  to  become  dry  enough  to  handle 
before  potting.  Deep  potting  is  not  necessary  ;  rather  pot  high  than 
low.  Do  not  bury  the  crowns  on  any  consideration.  The  plants  can 
be  always  top-dressed,  but  you  cannot  raise  the  crown  of  the  Fern  up 
without  injury  to  the  roots.  Plant  moderately  firmly,  and  leave  the 
plants  for  a  few  hours  before  watering.  Useful  plants  for  decorating 
can  be  grown  in  5-inch  pots,  and  unless  specimens  are  requiredlit  will 
be  found  quite  enough  to  pot  every  other  season.l 
Temperature  and  Watering.] 
Alter  potting  is  ccmpleted  place  the  plants  in  a  temperature 
ranging  from  55°  to  60°,  and  as  the  days  lengthen  and  the  light 
increases  it  may  be  raised  a  little  higher  by  the  heat  of  the  sun. 
Gradually  decrease  again  as  the  days  shorten,  and  the  plants  may  be 
kept  during  the  resting  period — the  winter — in  a  temperature  of  40°, 
increasing  again  as  the  spring  advances.  After  the  plants  have 
completed  their  growth  it  will  be  necessary  to  harden  them  to  enable 
them  to  bear  the  harsh  treatment  to  which  they  must  often  be  sub¬ 
jected.  This  can  be  effected  by  giving  more  air  and  lowering  the 
artificial  heat  till  you  have  them  in  a  condition  to  stand  in  a  cold^-pit 
or  frame  during  the  summer  without  injury  to  the  fronds.  W  hen  the 
plants  are  grown  in  a  cool  temperature  the  fronds  will  be  found  more 
lasting  when  used  for  house  decoration,  bouquets,  wreaths,  or  crosses, 
and  on  this  account  they  are  more  valuable. 
Maidenhair  Ferns  must  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  the  want 
of  water.  They  ought  to  be  examined  every  morning  or  evening,  and 
if  dry  enough  water  should  be  given  to  thoroughly  soak  the  ball  of 
the  plant  and  drain  freely  away.  In  the  summer  it  is  best  to  water 
in  the  evening,  so  that  the  roots  can  absorb  sufficient  moisture  to  he  p 
to  withstand  the  heat  of  the  following  day.  If  the  j  lants  are  in  small 
pots  they  will  require  to  be  looked  over  during  the  day,  and  if  dry 
should  be  well  watered.  Large  plants  rarely  require  water  more  than 
once  a  day  unless  the  pots  are  very  full  of  roots ;  but  naturally  the 
more  mouths  there  are  to  be  led,  the  greater  will  be  the  amount  of 
food  required  to  supply  them.  If  at  any  time  the  plants  have  been 
overlooked,  and  the  soil  has  become  very  parched,  immerse  the  pots 
in  water  up  to  the  rim,  and  allow  them  to  remain  till  the  soil  will 
absorb  no  more,  which  is  indicated  by  the  air  bubbles  ceasing  at 
the  top  of  the  water. 
As  a  rule,  water  should  be  given  at  the  same  temperature  as 
the  house  in  which  the  plants  are  growing.  Rain  water  is  far  the  best 
for  plants ;  but  if  this  cannot  be  obtained,  allow  the  hard  water  to 
remain  exposed  to  the  air  for  a  day  or  so  ;  this  will  do  niuch  towards 
softening  it.  If  the  soil  has  become  green  and  sour  on  the  surface, 
through  constantly  watering  a  little  at  a  time,  examine  the  drainage 
and  see  if  it  is  all  right.  If  so,  remove  the  surface  soil  and  top-dress 
with  fresh  ;  then  follow  the  hints  given  and  the  plants  will  cease  to 
look  unhealthy  through  the  ill  effects  of  injudicious  watering. 
Liquid  manure  should  be  given  to  plants  when  they  have  more  or 
less  exhausted  the  soil  of  food  ;  this  will  be  seen  when  the  roots  make 
their  appearance  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  or  when  the  plant  btcomes 
root-bound.  Then  will  be  the  time  to  top-dress  or  give  liquid  manure. 
Soot  water  is  most  useful  for  the  purpose,  but  care  is  necessary  in 
using  it  at  first ;  when  the  plants  get  used  to  it,  it  may  be  given  a 
little  stronger.  Chemical  manures  are  very  useful  for  making  liquid 
manures,  and  these  can  be  made  and  used  as  wanted. 
Syringing. 
Some  growers  advocate  syringing  their  plants  daily,  but  I  cannot 
speak  well  of  the  plan.  I  find  it  to  be  injurious  to  the  plants ;  if  kept 
constantly  soddened,  they  soon  become  unhealthy  and  lose  their  fronds. 
I  speak  chiefly  of  plants  grown  in  pots.  It  is  true  that  Ferns  delight 
in  a  humid  atmosphere,  but  this  can  be  given  them  without  daily 
syringings,  which  keep  the  fronds  soft,  and  render  them  more  liable  to 
the  attacks  of  insects.  Syringing  between  the  pots  should  be  practised, 
and  the  floors  and  walls  ought  to  be  moist  by  this  means,  instead  of  the 
plants.  If  syringing  the  latter  is  advisable  at  all,  it  is  when  the 
plants  are  growing  in  rooms,  or  when  they  have  been  used  for  house 
dt  coration,  and  it  should  be  done  for  the  purpose  of  washing  the  dust 
and  insects  off  them.  With  Ferns  growing  on  walls  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  avoid  using  the  syringe  for  watering  purposes ;  but  if 
syringed  once  a  day  this  will  be  enough,  provided  plenty  of  water  is 
kept  about  the  floors.  When  Ferns  are  planted  out  the  air  has  more 
chance  of  getting  amongst  the  fronds,  thus  preventing  the  moisture 
from  remaining. — P.  G. 
(To  be  concluded. 
- - - — ■ 
The  Close  Walks  at  Cowdray. — Mr.  Bourdillon  calls  attention 
in  the  “  Times  ”  “  to  a  danger  threatening  a  very  curious  and 
beautiful  bit  of  ancient  pleasure  ground,  the  famous  ‘  Close  Walks  ’ 
at  Cowdray,  in  Sussex.  The  Midhurst  District  Council  are,  it  apjrears, 
in  seriousness  negotiating  with  the  present  owners  of  this  historic 
property,  with  a  view  to  converting  these  most  interesting  walks  into 
an  arrangement  of  sewage  tanks.  Mrs.  Roundell,  in  her  valuable  and 
scarce  work  on  ‘  Cowdray,’  calls  particular  attention  to  the  ‘  Close 
Walks  ’  as  probably  unique  in  England,  and  as  many  of  your  readers 
are,  no  doubt,  unacquainted  with  them,  I  quote  her  description  : — 
‘  The  Close  Walks  were  formed  by  four  narrow  avenues  of  fine  old 
Yews,  planted  at  right  angles  so  as  to  form  a  square.  This  square 
measured  about  150  yards  each  way.  In  the  centre  were  circles,  also 
of  Yews.  From  the  size  of  the  Yew  trees,  and  the  arrangement  of 
the  Close  Walks,  this  portion  of  the  ground  was  most  remarkable.  It 
was  here  that  Queen  Elizabeth  dined  at  the  table  24  yards  long.’ 
(Roundell’s  ‘  Cowdray,'  p.  124.)  There  is  not,  so  far  as  I  can  learn, 
the  least  necessity  for  selecting  this  particular  spot  for  sewage  tanks, 
and  indeed  it  is  in  many  respects  unsuitable,  being  near  habitations, 
and  too  sheltered  to  be  properly  ventilated.  A  great  effort  is  being 
made  locally  to  stay  the  negotiations  before  it  is  too  late ;  but  it 
seems  to  me  a  just  occasion  for  invoking  the  interference  of  outside 
public  opinion  by  means  of  your  columns.” 
