4 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  3,  1901. 
his  time  (1629-40).  In  the  “Paradisus”  he  describes  twenty-one 
varieties,  their  colours  being  “  purple,  tawny,  blood-red,  violet,  blush, 
scarlet,  rose,  white,  yellow,  hair-coloured,  and  yellowish  green  with  purple 
edge.”  Philip  Miller,  in  his  “  Gardener’s  Dictionary,”  published  in 
1733,  says  of  the  Auricula  :  “  To  enumerate  the  diversities  of  this  plant 
would  be  almost  endless  and  impossible,  for  every  year  produoes  vast 
quantities  of  new  flowers,  differing  in  shape,  size,  or  colour.” 
It  is  generally  believed  that  the  progenitor  of  the  garden  Auricula 
is  Primula  Auricula.  We  can  easily  trace  the  yellow  and  buff  seifs  of 
the  early  writers  breaking  into  the  flakes  and  stripes  of  the  Flora 
Exotica  of  Count  Dermatt,  the  green  edge  of  Painted  Lady  Diamond, 
and  the  white  edge  of  Honour  and  Glory.  The  origin  of  the  black  and 
purple  coloured  forms  is  not  so  clear,  but  it  is  probable  that  the  purple 
flowered  P.  venusta  has  played  some  part  in  their  evolution. 
The  origin  of  the  Alpine  Auricula,  cultivated  by  Carolus  Clusius  in 
Vienna  as  early  as  1582,  would  appear  to  be  P.  Auricula  and 
P.  pubescens,  the  latter  a  natural  hybrid  producing  rosy  crimson  flowers. 
Hogg’s  ‘‘Treatise  on  Florists’  Flowers,”  published  in  1824,  mentions 
ninety-three  varieties  of  edged  Auriculas  and  thirteen  seifs ;  but  no 
distinction  is  made  between  the  green,  gray,  and  white  edges.  This  has 
been  done  in  more  recent  years,  the  Show  Auricula  being  divided  into 
four  well-marked  divisions — viz.,  green-edged,  gray-edged,  white-edged, 
and  seifs.  The  Alpine  Auricula  as  a  florist’s  flower  is  divided  into 
white-centred  and  yellow-centred  varieties. 
Carlyle  has  said,  “  Few  people  think,”  and  the  habitues  of  flower 
shows  probably  never  trouble  themselves  about  the  date  of  the 
introduction  here  of  any  plant.  There  are  many  who  would  probably 
be  surprised  to  know  that  the  Azalea  was  rare  in  England  two 
generations  ago  thus — 
Azalea  indica. — The  greenhouse  or  Indian  Azalea  has  a  history 
analogous  to  that  of  the  Chrysanthemum  in  regard  to  its  introduction, 
cultivation,  and  improvement  in  Europe.  In  the  “  Botanical  Magazine,” 
t.  1480  (1812),  it  is  figured  and  described  as  “  a  very  rare  plant,  which 
has  been  long  anxiously  sought  for  by  cultivators  of  curious  and  scarce 
exotics.  We  believe  there  are  not  above  three  or  four  individuals  of  it 
in  the  country,  and  of  these  only  the  one  in  the  collection  of  James 
Vire,  Esq.,  from  which  our  drawing  was  taken,  has  as  yet  produced  any 
flowers.’  In  the  same  place  it  is  stated  that  Kgempfer  enumerated 
twenty-one  varieties  cultivated  in  Japan,  including  white,  red,  yellow, 
purple,  and  scarlet,  with  spots  of  the  most  contrary  hues.  Fortune 
says  of  this  species :  “  Every  mountain  and  hill  in  the  central  and 
southern  provinces  of  China  is  covered  with  these  beautiful  plants. 
They  are  like  our  own  Heaths,  and  quite  as  abundant.  By  far  the 
finest  are  cultivated  in  gardens,  indeed  it  was  only  in  gardens  that  I 
could  find  any  worthy  of  introduction  into  England.”  The  Dutch 
cultivated  A.  indica  in  1680,  but  soon  lost  it,  and  it  was  not  reintroduced 
until  th6  beginning  of  the  present  century.  Knight,  of  King’s  Road, 
Chelsea,  purchased  in  1833  five  varieties,  one  double-flowered,  two  reds, 
and  two  large-flowered,  from  a  sailor  who  had  brought  them  from 
China.  Low  &  Co.  advertised  twenty-one  named  varieties  in  1841. 
Since  then  the  French,  the  Belgians,  and  others  have  crossed  and  bred 
these  Azaleas  with  really  wonderful  results. 
In  summarising  the  merits  of  this  excellent  work,  it  may  be  said 
that  by  it  the  path  of  the  earnest  student  is  cheered  and  facilitated 
without  in  any  way  detracting  from  its  usefulness  as  a  sound  guide 
to  horticulture. 
- - 
Lapagerias. 
Lapagerias  are  among  the  few  plants  which  succeed  well  with 
abundant,  root  space.  The  method  to  follow  with  a  plant  established 
in  a  small  pot  as  received  from  a  nurseryman  is  at  once  to  remove  it 
into  one  8  or  9  inches  in  diameter,  draining  the  pot  well,  and 
employing  as  compost  turfy  loam  and  peat,  with  nodules  of  lime 
rubbish  freely  intermixed.  After  a  time  growth  will  commence,  and 
in  due  time  the  pot  will  become  full  of  roots,  when  tie  plant  must  be 
shifted  once  more  into  a  pot  at  least  4  inches  wider  than  the  one  to  be 
set  aside.  This  shifting  must  be  continued  if  the  plant  is  to  be  kept 
growing  in  a  pot,  as  the  more  abundant  the  roots  the  stronger  and 
more  numerous  will  be  the  shoots  annually  thrown  up  from  the  base 
of  the  plant.  It  may  be  stated,  however,  that  a  13-inch  pot  will,  with 
occasional  rich  surface-dressings  supplemented  by  waterings  with  liquid 
manure,  keep  a  plant  in  good  condition  for  several  years,  but  not  so 
luxuriant  as  if  more  liberally  treated  as  to  root  space.  Returning  to 
the  start  of  our  typical  plant,  this  growth  must  be  carefully  trained 
on  a  string  under  the  roof  of  the  structure  in  which  the  plant  is 
growing.  \ear  by  year  the  same  care  must  be  taken  with  young 
shoots  which  may  be  produced. 
To  prevent  overcrowding  the  first  spindly  growths  should  be  cut 
off  close  to  the  soil,  and  all  along  the  future  of  the  plant  must  be 
studied  by  allowing  at  least  6  inches  between  each  main  growth.  The 
above  is  the  only  certain  mode  of  obtaining  large  blooms  and  plenty  of 
them.  It  may  be  noted  here  that  this  plant  is  not  particular  as  to 
aspect.  It  does  well  full  in  the  sun,  in  the  shade,  or  under  conditions 
between  these  two ;  plenty  of  root-room,  head-room,  and  water 
apparently  being  the  conditions  most  favourable  to  its  healthy  growth. 
Though  I  have  plants  growing  in  pots  under  the  conditions  above 
recommended,  at  the  same  time  I  would  recommend  even  more  space 
at  the  roots  than  can  be  provided  by  pots,  and,  in  fact,  prefer  planting 
out  in  beds  more  or  less  restricted  in  size  to  the  Tcom  at  command. 
The  progress  a  plant  makes  after  being  planted  out  is  really  astonish¬ 
ing,  and  the  number  of  flowers  produced  for  at  least  six  months  of  the 
year  is  very  great  indeed.  The  compost  should  be  of  an  open  nature. 
Plants  I  have  had  to  do  with,  put  out  in  a  soil  in  which  Camellias 
flourished,  made  no  progress  until  a  different  kind  of  compost  was 
employed. 
I  have  a  large  specimen  which  was  planted  in  a  bed  specially 
made  for  it  several  years  ago,  the  compost  used  being  the  older  roots 
of  Lastrea  dilatata.  This  year  the  blooms  have  declined  considerably 
in  size,  but  this  I  expect  to  overcome  by  a  thick  dressing  of  rich 
material  and  occasional  manurial  waterings.  These  old  plants  seem 
to  be  very  prolific  of  seed  pods,  which  to  anyone  wishful  of  increasing 
stock  would  be  the  most  ready  means  of  doing  so.  In  the  case  of  the 
white  variety  this  would  of  course  be  a  risky  way  of  promoting 
increase,  as  the  plants  resulting  from  such  seed  would  require  to  be 
flowered  before  being  sure  as  to  colour. — B. 
- «.#.* - 
Culture  of  Maidenhair  Ferns. 
{Concluded  from  page  574,  last  vol.) 
Ferns  in  Hanging  Baskets. 
Baskets  for  Ferns  may  be  made  of  almost  any  material.  Cork, 
oak,  or  wire  is  the  material  generally  employed,  wire  being  the  most 
lasting  of  all.  Line  the  baskets  with  moss  before  filling  them ;  it  is 
necessary  to  prevent  the  soil  irom  falling  through  the  apertures. 
When  the  basket  has  been  lined  it  is  a  good  plan  to  place  two  or  throe 
large  pieces  of  crocks  on  the  bottom.  Use  similar  soil  for  planting 
to  that  recommended  for  potting.  Care  is  necessary  not  to  fill  with 
soil  too  high  for  the  water  to  drain  over  the  sides  instead  of  running 
through  the  basket.  Some  growers  prefer  leaving  the  plants  in  the 
pots  and  filling  around  with  moss ;  but  planting  out  I  find  is  a  much 
better  plan.  The  time  for  filling  baskets  is  the  spring,  and  the  plants 
may  be  placed  in  as  the  cultivator  prefers,  either  lor  the  fronds  to 
come  through  the  bottoms  and  sides,  or  in  an  u plight  position  as  when 
growing  in  pots.  The  Maidenhair  is  not  so  often  grown  in  baskets 
as  some  of  the  other  Adiantums;  but,  still,  well-grown  plants  in 
baskets  are  not  to  bo  overlooked,  and  the  baskets  can  be  made  still 
more  attractive  by  planting  a  little  Selagineila  or  Ficus  repens  around 
the  sides.  The  last-named  has  a  pleasing  appearance,  and  it  can 
be  easily  propagated,  for  when  grown  well  the  long  shoots  send  out 
roots  at  every  joint.  It  is  very  useful  for  covering  the  bare  walls  of 
ferneries.  Hanging  the  baskets  over  other  plants,  as  sometimes 
practised,  is  injurious  to  those  beneath,  for  when  watering  takes 
place  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  the  water  coming  in  contact  with  the 
other  plants,  unless  the  baskets  are  taken  down  for  watering  each 
time  it  has  to  be  done.  Plants  can  be  grown  in  baskets  for  two  or 
three  seasons  if  a  little  top-dressing  is  given,  and  liquid  manure 
supplied  freely  during  the  growing  season. 
Ferns  in  Cork  Pouches. 
Maidenhairs  can  be  well  grown  in  cork  pouches,  and  they  give  a- 
natural  appearance  to  the  house.  Virgin  cork  or  bark  from  our 
native  trees  is  generally  nailed  on  wood  or  the  walls  for  giving  the 
place  the  rustic  appearance  so  necessarv  in  all  Fern-growing 
arransements.  The  soil  already  recommended  will  suffice  to  grow 
hea'thy  plants.  When  growing  in  pouches  the  plants  require  very 
careful  attention  with  regard  to  watering,  as  the  soil  in  such  places 
quickly  dries,  particularly  when  situattd  near  the  pipes,  or  in  other 
dry  parts  ot  the  house. 
Ferns  on  Stones. 
Ferns  can  be  grown  well  either  planted  among  or  upon  rough 
pieces  of  stone.  Little  rockeries  are  often  made  alongside  the 
hot-water  pipes  used  for  heating  the  house,  and  if  the  Maidenhair  is 
here  planted  out  it  will  give  the  sides  of  the  walks  a  cheerful 
appearance.  Growing  entirely  on  burrs  is  sometimes  practised,  and  it 
is  astonishing  what  healthy  fronds  the  Ferns  will  throw  up  when 
depending  on  the  stone  for  their  food.  The  best  way  I  know  of  thus 
glowing  them  is  to  scatter  some  fine  soil  on  the  stones  and  plant  small 
seedlings  ;  these  will  be  found,  if  well  watered,  to  grow  well.  Tufa 
is  a  very  useful  stone,  and  well  adapted  for  rockery  making  ;  its  colour 
is  brown,  varying  from  light  to  dark.  It  is  a  loose  and  porous  kind  of 
stone,  formed  by  depositions,  and  is  common  in  some  parts  of 
Derbyshire,  where  it  is  quarried  for  these  purposes. — P.  G. 
