G 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
January  3,  1901. 
Planting  Roses. 
The  Rose  with  all  its  beauty,  grace,  and  fragrance,  still  retains  its 
hold  upon  the  affections  of  the  British  people,  and  its  popularity 
seems  likely  to  continue  as  long  as  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  remains  a 
dominant  power  in  the  world.  The  quiet  stay-at-home  Britisher  can 
perhaps  scarcely  rea  ise  how  much  the  roaming  sons  of  our  Empire 
have  done  to  popularise  the  Rose  in  distant  quarters  of  the  globe, 
but  wherever  the  Union  Jack  flies  there  the  national  flower  soon 
follows  if  there  is  the  slightest  prospect  of  its  being  successfully 
grown,  and  thus  creates  a  connecting  link  between  the  “old  home 
and  the  new.”  We  at  home,  however,  know  that  each  year  adds  to 
the  list  of  enthusiastic  Rose  growers;  we  know  that  no  garden  lover 
ever  has  too  many  Ro  es,  and  to  grow  and  show  them  in  “the  highest 
phase  of  their  possible  beauty”  is  the  great  ambition  of  not  a  few. 
’Tis  well  that  it  is  so,  for  what  more  healthful  and  pleasant 
recreation  can  bj  found  than  the  culture  of  “Flora’s  queen  ?  ” 
Given  a  fairly  good  soil  and  a  desire  to  excel,  it  is  not  a  difficult 
matter  (or  anyone  to  grow  good  Roses,  and  I  might  also  add  that  it 
is  also  quite  easy  to  make  mistakes,  and  thus  secure  only 
unsat  sfactory  r<  suits.  Condition  in  regard  to  soil  and  climate  vary  so 
much,  that  no  matter  how  much  one  mav  know  about  the  matter  it 
is  always  necessary  to  cultivate  a  habit  of  close  observation  and  vary 
cultural  details  according  to  the  particular  circumstances  of  each  case 
Roses  may  be  successfully  grown  on  nearly  all  soils,  but  a  good  deal 
of  extra  trouble  is  er  tailed  in  securing  fine  re-ults  on  light  poor  ones. 
The  ideal  Rose  soil  is  one  which,  though  moderately  stiff,  is  still  well 
drained.  Light  soils  are  invariably  well  drained,  and  in  such  cases 
the  attention  of  the  cultivator  should  be  directed  towards  making 
them  closer  in  texture  as  well  as  enriching  them. 
Planting  may  be  successfully  performed  from  early  November  till 
the  middle  of  March,  but  autumn  planting  usually  gives  the  better 
results  the  first  season  in  light  soils.  In  heavy  cold  ones  early  spring 
planting  is  sometimes  to  be  recommended,  as  theie  is  then  no  danger 
of  the  roots  decaying  should  long  periods  of  wet  prevail.  Rose 
growing  is  greatly  simplified  if  beds  or  borders  can  be  devoted  entirely 
to  them,  as  when  planted  among  other  flowers  or  crops  it  is 
sometimes  difficult  to  give  the  Roses  the  attention  they  need.  When 
preparing  light  sods  trench  two  spits  in  depth,  and  wo  k  into  the 
lower  stratum  pi  nty  of  cow  excreta  or  well  decayed  horse  or  farmyard 
manure.  The  surface  soil  may  also  receive  a  lighter  dressing  provided 
it  is  kept  away  from  the  roots  at  planting  time.  When  beds  are 
formed  on  very  stiff  soil  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  take  out  the  soil 
to  a  depth  of  2  feet,  break  up  the  subsoil,  and  add  a  few  inches  of 
rubble  or  similar  material  to  act  as  drainage.  When  the  soil  is 
returned,  if  rather  strawy  manure  is  mixed  with  it,  it  is  kept 
comparatively  open  and  porous,  and  if  these  preparations  can  be  carried 
out  early  in  the  autumn  the  soil  is  usually  in  better  condition  for 
working  in  spring.  I  ought  to  have  mentioned  previously  that  the 
addition  of  stiff  soil  or  clay  to  a  very  light  one  improves  it  greatly. 
It  should  not,  however,  be  added  in  large  sticky  lumps  but  chopped 
up  finely,  or  better  still,  dried  in  summer,  pounded  and  stored 
for  use. 
When  standards  are  planted  in  isolated  positions  large  wide  and 
deep  holes  ought  always  to  be  made,  and  a  layer  of  manure  placed  in 
the  bottom,  for  althou.h  we  like  to  encourage  surface  roots  it  is  also 
an  advantage  to  have  others  deep  down  in  the  soil  to  draw  up  mois¬ 
ture  duiing  p-riods  of  drought.  When  planting  Tea  Roses  I  like 
to  place  the  stock  a  few  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  so  that 
the  Rose  shoots  may  send  out  roots,  as  it  is  very  annoying  d  rring 
severe  winters  to  have  the  shoots  killed  to  the  ground  line  with 
nothing  but  the  stock  left  alive.  Such  plants  are  then,  of  course, 
useless  Deep  planting,  in  the  case  of  lruit  and  other  trees,  is  at  all 
times  to  be  avoided,  but  with  Tea  Roses  it  may  be  practised  with 
advantage  if  not  carded  to  the  extreme. 
In  the  case  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals  there  is  not  the  same  necessity 
for  deep  plantii  g,  as  the  shoots  are  seldom  killed  low  down  by  frost, 
and  with  strong  growing  varieties  it  is  olten  an  advantage  to  have  a 
slight  portion  ol  the  stock  above  the  sc  if  to  prevent  the  production  of 
strong  suckers.  In  all  instances  damaged  roots  and  the  points  of  all 
others  should  be  r*  moved,  and  the  parts  left  be  spread  out  evenly 
beb  re  being  covered  with  soil.  When  planting  in  heavy^soils,  if  a 
little  1  ghter  material  can  be  placed  over  the  roots  it  helps  to  1  asten 
root  prod  iction.  Tread  a  light  soil  moderately  firmly  about  the  roots, 
hut  press  a  heavy  one  very  little,  as  it  will  invariably  bind  closely 
enough  to  the  exclusion  of  that  necessary  element — air.  In  all 
instances  mulch  the  beds  after  planting  with  partially  decayed 
manure. 
On  page  504,  last  vol.,  Mr.  E.  Molyneux  has  advanced  some 
exceedingly  interesting  and  instructive  remarks  about  climbing  and 
other  garden  Roses,  I  will  therefore  onlv  deal  with  the  H.P.’s  and 
Teas.  The  former  are  a  popular  section  with  hosts  of  growers  because 
they  are  so  hardy,  and  all  who  live  in  cold  districts  should  plant  them 
more  largely  than  their  delicate  sisters  the  'Leas.  My  favourite  form 
of  tree  is  the  bush,  as  it  can  be  lifted  occasionally,  and  thus  kept 
within  due  bounds  ;  and,  moreover,  no  style  of  tree  is  better  adapted 
for  the  production  of  large  blooms.  Maidens,  the  first  year  after 
planting,  usually  produce  one  or  two  good  blooms  just  when  those  on 
the  established  plants  are  over,  and  for  that  reason  prove  extremely 
useful. 
In  regard  to  varieties,  there  are  many  queens  of  greater  or  lesser 
renown,  but  the  lowliest  among  them  is  a  gem  among  floral  treasures 
which  none  need  despise.  The  following  li-t,  however,  contains  some 
of  the  best  new  and  old  variet'es.  Alfred  Colomb,  bright  red  ;  A.  K. 
Williams,  reddish  crimson ;  Baroness  Rothschild,  delicate  rose  ;  Captain 
Christy,  flesh  ;  Charles  Lefebvre,  velvety  crimson  ;  Comtesse  d’Oxford, 
carmine;  Earl  ot  Dufferin,  crimson  ;  Frangiois  Michelon,  rose;  General 
Jacqueminot,  crimson  scarlet  ;  Her  Majesty,  La  France,  lilac  rose  ; 
Madame  Charles  Wood,  bright  red  ;  Marie  Baumann,  light  crimson; 
Mrs.  J.  Laing,  pink;  Margaret  Dickson,  flesh ;  R-ynolds  Hole,  maroon 
and  crimson  ;  Merveille  de  Lyon,  white  tinted  rose;  and  Susanne 
Marie  Rodocanachi,  rosy  cirise.  The  above  are  all  H.P.’s. 
The  following  Teas  are  all  good.  Annie  Olivier,  buff  shaded  rose? 
Bridesmaid,  clear  pink;  Catherine  Mermet,  pink;  Comtesse  de 
Nadaillac,  apricot  yellow;  Grace  Darling,  pink  ;  Hon.  Edith  Gifford, 
white  tinted  rose:  Innocente  Pirola,  creamy  white;  Jean  Ducher, 
salmon  yellow';  L’Ideal,  metallic  red  ;  Madame  Lambard,  bright  red; 
Maman  Cochet,  blush  lose;  Niphetos,  white;  Perle  des  Jardins, 
oraDge  yellow;  and  The  Bride,  white  H  >w  fast  the  days,  the  years* 
and  even  the  centuries  roll  by  !  but  among  all  the  changes  which 
surround  us  the  Rose  of  England  sits  firmly  in  her  high  estate.  May 
none  depose  her  during  the  century  so  soon  to  begin  ;  and  throughout 
its  course  may  the  flower  which  we  all  love  so  well  shed  her  beauty 
and  fragrance  in  still  greater  spheres,  and  bring  to  those  who  cherish 
her  a  full  share  of  happiness  and  peace. — H.  D. 
- ♦-#.< - 
Winter  Cucumbers, 
The  time  is  at  hand  or  present  when  fruit  is  scarce,  and  the  prices, 
if  at  all,  run  high.  Winter  fruiting  plants  are  often  planted  so  soon, 
and  fruit  so  early,  as  to  be  incapable  of  doing  much  when  the  days  turn 
in  their  favour.  Nevertheless  a  good  plant  is  of  importance,  and  unless 
there  is  command  of  plenty  of  heat  young  plants  have  very  little 
chance  against  those  that  have  a  good  hold  of  the  soil  and  have  covered 
a  considerable  extent  of  trellis  before  the  dull  season  commences. 
Circumstances  often  make  all  the  difference  in  culture.  Those  having 
light  and  well  heated  structures  make  little  account  of  the  weather,  and 
always  prefer  young  to  old  plants  ;  whilst  strugglers  against  frost  and 
sunless  skies,  with  barely  enough  heat  for  mild  weather,  and  dark-roofed 
structures  from  small  panes  and  many  laps,  are  ever  on  the  tiptoe  of 
anxiety  and  pin  their  faith  to  old  plants,  which  have  little  “  go  ”  in 
them  at  five  months  from  the  seed. 
Light  is  very  important  for  youDg  plants,  which,  from  a  September 
sowing,  are  laden  with  fruit  about  the  thickness,  and  half  the  length, 
of  a  single  barrel  gun,  green  as  grass,  and  carrying  a  blue  bloom,  which 
are  all  bespoke  for  Christmas  and  the  new  year  at  exactly  double  the 
price  of  the  older  plants.  The  glass  must  be  clean,  both  inside  and 
out,  and  coverings  are  used  over  the  roof-lights  at  night.  Even  mats 
may  be  used  over  the  doorways  in  cold  weather  to  prevent  the  inrush 
of  cold  air  when  the  doors  are  opened. 
Feeding  is  practised  on  the  principle  of  root  production,  earthing  or 
surface  dressing  with  sweet,  warm,  lumpy  loam,  and  encouraging  with 
top-dressing  of  superphosphate  (a  great  root  multiplier),  and  then 
follows  the  potash  and  nitrogen,  sulphate  of  potash  and  nitrate  of  soda, 
or  sulphate  of  ammonia,  in  equal  parts,  with  superphosphate  to  keep  up 
the  root  action  and  the  supply  of  phosphorus.  Fresh  loam,  a  sprinkling 
of  superphosphate,  when  roots  are  plentiful,  a  dusting  of  the  potash 
and  nitrate  or  sulphate,  is  the  order  of  the  day,  and  with  that,  accord¬ 
ing  to  the  judgment  of  the  grower,  Cucumbers  “come  and  go”  in 
from  ten  to  twenty-one  days,  just  as  the  weather  permits. 
Where  Cucumbers  are  obtained  from  frames  or  pits  heated  by 
fermenting  materials,  some  fresh  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  should  be  thrown 
together,  with  one-third  of  stable  litter,  and,  if  necessary,  moisten  so 
as  to  induce  fermentation.  The  heap  must  be  turned  when  warmed 
through,  turning  outside  to  inside,  thoroughly  incorporating,  alike  to 
induce  a  genial  warmth  of  the  materials  and  to  sweeten  them. — 
Practice. 
