16 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  3,  1901. 
Suggestions  for  1901. 
I  PUBrosE  to  offer  a  few  suggestions  to  the  compilers  of  show 
schedules,  who,  when  drafting  their  prize  lists  for  next  season,  should 
endeavour  to  introduce  some  change  of  class  or  method  of  dealing  with 
those  already  existing.  This  is  rendered  very  desirable  by  the  fact 
that  all  visitors  to  horticultural  exhibitions  do  not  understand  the 
individual  quality  of  the  blooms,  hut  look  for  constant  changes. 
Lacking  the  highly  developed  florist’s  eye  their  interest  quickly  wanes 
unless  a  constantly  changing  picture  is  provided.  My  suggestions 
will  not,  perhaps,  contain  anything  very  new,  but  will  rather  take  the 
form  of  a  record  of  experience  of  what  appeared  to  me  to  be  a  success 
at  the  various  shows  visited. 
Yase  classes  must  play  a  prominent  part  in  all  shows,  as  the 
blooms  can  be  so  admirably  displayed.  The  true  decorative  value  ol 
each  variety  can  be  appraised  at  once  when  arranged  in  vases.  No 
matter  how  many  blooms  are  placed  in  a  vase  they  should  consist  of  only 
one  variety  ;  a  mixture  is  not  nearly  so  effective.  No  other  show  with 
which  I  am  familiar  can  compare  with  Edinburgh  for  the  extent  and 
variety  of  its  vase  classes ;  no  less  than  twenty-one  are  included  in 
the  schedule.  In  some  instances  twelve  blooms  of  any  variety  of 
Japanese  are  required  in  two  vases,  but  I  cannot  say  the  effect 
produced  by  such  classes  is  of  the  best.  There  is  a  lack  of  harmony 
in  colour  that  is  difficult  to  explain.  Not  so  the  various  classes  set 
apart  for  six  blooms  of  specified  varieties.  For  instance,  Mutual 
Friend  brought  forth  nine  competitors,  and  a  really  charmiDg  display 
resulted,  as  the  drooping  florets  make  this  variety  peculiarly  effective 
for  this  form  of  arrangement.  Mons.  Chenon  de  L6ch6  is  also 
excellent  for  this  purpose.  Especially  handsome  is  the  large  vase 
'class  at  the  show  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society.  Five 
blooms  of  one  variety  is  a  fairly  large  order,  and  the  cimpetition 
might  be  increased  if  fewer  were  demanded.  Many  societies  offer 
prizes  for  twelve  yellow  and  the  same  number  of  white  flowered 
varieties.  Why  not  stage  these  in  two  vases  instead  of  adhering  to 
the  cup  and  tube  principle  ? 
What  are  known  as  decorative  sorts  should  find  a  place  in  every 
schedule.  If  all  societies  cannot  provide  for  three  vases  one  would 
suffice.  Single  flowered  varieties,  too,  ought  to  receive  ample 
encouragement.  Any  kind  of  foliage  must  be  allowed  in  the  two 
last-named  classes.  At  York  as  many  as  twelve  varieties  are  required, 
these  arranged  in  separate  vases  producing  a  capital  effect.  At  Windsor 
a  feature  ot  the  show  is  the  class  for  a  basket  or  vase  of  twelve 
Chrysanthemums  arranged  with  other  natural  foliage,  and  this  is  a 
splendid  means  of  illustrating  the  value  of  large  blooms  for  hall  or 
drawing-room  decoration. 
At  Birmingham  a  class  for  displaying  large  blooms  in  conjunction 
with  small  foliage  plants  is  provided.  To  fully  explain  the  object  of 
the  class  I  cannot  do  better  than  quote  the  whole  of  it  :  “Twelve 
specimen  blooms  of  Japanese  Chrysanthemums,  distinct,  on  long  stems, 
arranged  with  any  kind  of  foliage,  which  may  include  small  Ferns 
and  Palms  in  pots,  provided  the  blooms  are  fully  and  artistically 
displayed.  The  object  of  this  class  is  to  illustrate  tasteful 
arrangement  of  highly  developed  flowers  of  the  best  quality  for 
decorative  purposes.  Each  exhibitor  will  be  allowed  feet  X  3  feet 
table  space.  The  flowers  must  be  exhibited  in  vases  or  vessels  containing 
water  and  not  exceeding  15  inches  in  height.”  The  result  was  highly 
satisfactory,  as  many  as  ten  growers  competing. 
Table  decoration  with  Chrysanthemums  plays  an  important  part 
at  maDy  shows.  There  is  no  disputing  the  fact  that  this  section 
might  advantageously  be  increased  at  many  shows.  At  Hull,  as  is 
generally  well  known,  a  room  is  specially  set  apart  lor  this  section  of 
the  exhibition,  the  exhibits  being  seen,  as  they  should  be,  under 
artificial  light.  In  the  ordinary  way  table  decoration  is  a  leading 
feature  at  the  Birmingham  shows,  no  less  than  eleven  competing  in 
the  principal  class,  and,  as  might  be  expected,  a  varied,  interesting, 
and  attractive  display  was  made. 
The  inclusion  of  foliage  plants,  Palms,  Ferns,  and  Crotons  might 
be  much  more  general  in  groups  of  Chrysanthemums  than  is  at  present 
the  case.  There  is  a  too  formal  appearance  about  numbers  of  these 
exhibits,  while  the  individual  beauty  of  many  varieties  is  frequently 
quite  lost. 
Combination  classes  of  incurved  and  Japanese  blooms  are  not  as 
numerous  as  they  were.  I  think  such  an  arrangement  lessens  compe¬ 
tition,  but  is  a  distinct  advantage  to  the  cultivator  of  the  incurved 
varieties,  as  it  sometimes  enables  him  to  take  a  leading  position  with 
inferior  Japanese  blooms. — E.  Molynetjx. 
Late  Varieties. 
In  the  able  article  on  late  varieties  by  “  S.,”  page  565,  last  vol., 
mention  is  made  that  the  once  popular  white  L.  Canning  does  not 
come  so  well  as  it  did  a  few  years  ago,  as  it  produces  many  flower 
“  blind  ”  buds.  I  wonder  if  your  contributor  has  ever  tried  shaking 
the  old  stools  out  and  repotting  each  year.  As  I  pen  this  note,  I 
have  in  my  mind  a  house  with  nearly  200  plants  in  it  that  have  been 
so  treated  each  year,  and  I  can  assure  “  S.”  that  they  open  as  perfect 
as  could  be  wished  for,  and  for  cutting  in  large  quantities  not  many 
could  equal  them  for  Christmas  decorations. — J.  B. 
Forcing  Vegetables. 
Rhnbarb  and  Seakale. 
Most  gardens  contain  strong  clumps  of  Rhubarb  and  Seakale,  and 
especially  the  former,  some  of  which  may  be  forced.  Although  such 
varieties  of  Rhubarb  as  Prince  Albert  and  Johnston’s  St.  Martin’s  are 
excellent  for  forcing,  any  of  the  later  varieties  will  well  repay  the 
trouble  taken.  Even  the  (iiant  Victoria,  though  it  does  not  start 
readily,  can  eventually  be  induced  to  form  a  great  number  of  stalks, 
which  are  of  very  superior  flavour.  Roots  of  any  variety  of  Rhubarb 
and  Seakale  may  be  lifted  and  packed  in  rather  closely  under  the 
staging  of  a  forcing  house  and  near  to  the  hot-water  pipes,  or  they 
can  be  potted  or  placed  in  boxes  in  a  warm  house.  Any  ordinary 
soil  may  be  employed,  and  this  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  dust 
dry.  Two  or  three  large  clumps  of  Rhubarb  are  sometimes  carefully 
lifted,  packed  in  soil  in  large  hampers  or  boxes,  and  placed  in  a  warm 
cellar,  the  result  being  early  and  good  produce. 
Seakale  may  be  started  in  a  garden  frame  on  a  gentle  hotbed,  but 
great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  rank  fermenting  material,  or  the 
roo  s  will  be  injured,  and  the  produce  spindly.  The  Seakale  will 
require  to  be  grown  in  the  dark,  but  this  is  immaterial  in  the  case  of 
Rhubarb. 
Forcing  where  Growing. 
In  either  instance  the  best  results  are  obtained  from  those  roots 
forced  where  they  are  grown.  All  that  is  required  for  this  work  are  a 
few  pots  for  the  Seakale  and  deep  boxes  or  tubs  for  the  Rhubarb 
(ordinary  flour  or  cement  tubs  with  their  bottoms  converted  into  lids 
are  very  suitable),  and  a  quantity  of  leaves  and  manure  which  have 
previously  been  laid  in  a  heap  for  a  few  days.  Commence  operations 
by  lightly  forking  up  the  soil  round  the  crowns,  place  over  these  the 
covers  with  their  lids  on,  and  then  bank  round  the  fermenting 
material  so  as  to  bury  the  covers.  Avoid  making  a  great  heap, 
preferring  rather  to  cover  a  few  roots  at  intervals  of  a  fortnight.  If 
leaves  only  are  used  hurdles  will  be  necessary  to  keep  them  together. 
A  trial  stick  should  be  thrust  into  the  bed  and  frequently  examined, 
and,  should  the  point  be  found  uncomfortably  hot  to  the  hand,  the 
heap  must  be  opened  for  a  few  days. 
Asparagus. 
A  bottom  heat  of  about  75°  is  very  suitable  for  all  forced  vegetables. 
A  still  milder  hotbed  is  suitable  for  forcing  Asparagus,  and  where  it 
is  in  contemplation  to  break  up  an  old  bed  the  roots  should  be 
utilised  lor  iorcing  and  then  thrown  away.  The  growth  from  these 
old  plants  is  produced  very  freely,  but  is  usually  much  inferior  to  that 
obtained  from  younger  plants.  Of  course  no  one  would  think  of 
breaking  up  good  beds  unless  there  are  others  to  succeed  them. 
When  the  hotbed  is  found  to  be  in  a  suitable  condition  a  layer  of 
rather  moist  good  soil  is  spread  over  the  surface,  and  on  this  the 
carefully  lifted  roots  are  closely  laid  and  covered  with  more  soil, 
working  this  well  among  the  roots.  The  soil  being  in  a  moist  state 
and  the  heat  also  moist  no  water  will  be  required  at  first,  but  a  thorough 
supply  of  warm  water  should  be  given  on  the  appearance  of  dryness. 
If  the  heat  be  mild  cover  the  frame  closely  with  mats  or  litter  till  the 
growth  is  pushing  through  the  soil,  when  as  much  light  as  possible 
must  be  admitted,  as  most  people  prefer  green  to  blanched  Asparagus. 
The  frames  should  be  covered  during  the  night,  and  should  the 
bottom  heat  decline  to  below  70°  a  lining  of  fresh  material  should 
be  given,  as  the  growth  is  liable  to  be  hard  if  grown  in  a  low 
temperature.  Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  and  Seakale  may  all  be  forwarded 
considerably  where  growing  if  sufficiently  protected  with  rough 
litter. — J. 
