20 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  3,  1901. 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS 
' — - - — — — 
t:T0  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Apple  Borsdorfer  (W.  Baby). — This  is  a  very  old  German  Apple 
which  is  described  by  Dr.  Hogg  in  the  “  Fruit  Manual  ”  as  follows  : 
Fruit  shining  pale  waxen  yellow  in  the  shade,  and  bright  deep  red  next 
the  sun,  strewed  with  dots  which  are  yellowish  in  the  sun  and  brown 
in  the  shade.  Tree  a  free  grower  and  very  hardy,  not  subject  to  canker, 
and  attains  the  largest  size ;  is  very  prolific  when  it  has  acquired  its 
full  growth,  which,  in  good  soil,  it  will  do  in  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ; 
and  even  in  a  young  state  it  is  a  good 
bearer.  If  grafted  on  the  Paradise 
stock  it  may  be  grown  as  an  open 
dwarf  or  an  espalier.  The  bloom  is 
very  hardy,  and  withstands  the  night 
frosts  of  spring  better  than  most  other 
varieties.  This,  above  all  other 
Apples,  is  the  most  highly  esteemed 
in  Germany.  Diel  calls  it  the  Pride 
of  the  Germans.  It  is  believed  to 
have  originated  either  at  a  village  of 
Misnia,  called  Borsdorf,  or  at  a  place 
of  the  same  name  near  Leipsic. 
According  to  Forsyth  it  was  such  a 
favourite  with  Queen  Charlotte  that 
she  had  a  considerable  quantity  of 
them  annually  imported  from  Ger¬ 
many  for  her  own  private  use.  It  is 
one  of  the  earliest  recorded  varieties 
of  the  continental  authors,  but  does 
not  seem  to  have  been  known  in  this 
country  before  the  close  of  the  last 
century.  It  was  first  grown  in  the 
Brompton  Park  Nursery  in  1785.  It 
is  mentioned  by  Cordus,  in  1561,  as 
being  cultivated  in  Misnia,  which  cir¬ 
cumstance  has  no  doubt  given  rise  to 
the  synonym  “  Reinette  de  Misnie 
he  also  informs  us  it  is  highly 
esteemed  for  its  sweet  and  generous 
flavour,  and  the  pleasant  perfume 
which  it  exhales.  Wittichius,  in  his 
“  Methodus  Simplicium,”  attributes 
to  it  the  power  of  dispelling  epidemic 
fevers  and  madness.  There  is  a  proverb  in  Germany  which  says, 
“  Ihre  wangen  sind  so  roth  wie  ein  Borsdorfer  apfel  ”  (Her  cheeks  are 
as  red  as  a  Borsdorfer  Apple). 
Gesnera  cinnabarina  ( A.  D.  B.). — This  is  one  of  the  most  brilliant 
and  beautiful  of  stove  plants  for  flowering  in  the  winter.  Those 
which  you  have  seen  and  admired  were  probably  started  about  mid¬ 
summer.  We  have  potted  tubers  at  the  time,  and  started  them  in 
a  frame,  and  have  grown  the  plants  in  it  till  September,  or  as  long 
as  the  weather  was  warm  enough,  then  placed  them  on  a  shelf  in  the 
stove.  They  usually  commenced  flowering  in  January,  or  when  the 
Poinsettias  were  nearly  over,  producing  an  effect  not  surpassed  by 
those  plants  during  a  period  of  two  months.  Fine  plants  may  be  grown 
in  6-inch  pots,  forming  dense  pyramids  of  orange-scarlet  flowers  and 
handsome  velvety  leaves,  which  contribute  materially  to  the  beauty  of 
the  plants. 
Tuberous-rooted  Begonias  ( J .  W.  IF.). — The  old  tubers  should  still  be 
kept  cool  and  dry,  and  when  they  are  started  in  March  let  it  be  in  boxes 
of  soil  rather  than  in  pots.  These  Begonias  are  at  their  best  during  the 
first  and  second  years  of  their  life,  degenerating  when  kept  longer.  In 
order  to  have  strong  young  plants  of  this  year’s  raising  ready  for  the 
beds  next  June  there  must  be  no  delay  in  seed-sowing.  Give  the 
preference  to  erect  flowering  varieties  or  strains  for  the  beds.  Take 
great  pains  with  the  preparation  of  pans  or  shallow  boxes,  finishing  off 
with  a  layer  of  very  fine  loamy  soil,  which  should  be  duly  made  level, 
firm,  and  moist.  Sow  regularly  and  evenly  ;  do  not  cover  with 
either  soil  or  sand.  Place  the  pans  in  a  moist  brisk  heat,  taking  care 
that  worms  have  no  access  to  them.  Cover  with  squares  of  glass  and 
shade  heavily.  Examine  frequently,  and  whenever  the  soil  approaches 
dryness  partially  immerse  the  pots  in  a  bucket  or  tank  of  tepid  water, 
the  moisture  then  draining  without  disturbing  the  minute  seeds. 
Apple  Borsdorfer. 
Injurious  JFumes  from  Plant  Stands  in  Greenhouses  and  Vineries 
(Colonel). — The  fumes  arising  from  the  “  carboliueum  wood”  of  which 
the  plant  stages  are  made,  cannot  be  successfully  prevented  except  by 
coating  them  with  paint,  giving  at  least  three  coats,  and  even  then  the 
acid  will  be  given  off  on  parts  of  the  stages  where  the  paint  wears  off, 
especially  under  the  prevailing  conditions  of  moisture.  We  cannot 
suggest  any  chemical  remedy,  but  perhaps  some  of  our  correspondents 
may  be  able  to  point  to  a  substance  for  neutralising  the  acid,  and 
which,  applied  to  the  stages,  would  prevent  their  giving  out  injurious 
fumes.  In  the  meanwhile  we  can  only  advise  the  continuance  of  the 
ventilation  to  as  great  an  extent  as  possible  consistent  with  the  safety 
of  the  plants. 
Deutzia  crenata  flore-pleno  (F.TF.  G.).— This  is  a  very  useful  plant 
for  forcing,  but  does  not  flower  so  early  as  D.  graoilis.  Pruning  should 
be  done  immediately  after  flowering,  and  be  limited  to  the  removal  of 
those  portions  that  are  exhausted  by  flowering,  not  necessarily  removing 
the  flowering  branches  entirely,  as  certain  portions  of  these,  which  are 
easily  observable,  form  spurs,  which  in  turn  produce  clusters  of  flowers, 
but  at  the  same  time  preserve  and  encourage  the  young  growths.  If 
one  or  two  of  these  are  very  strong  and  likely  to  grow  much  longer  than 
the  rest  pinch  out  their  points  while  still  young,  and  they  will  break  and 
make  second  growths  that  will  be  strong  enough  for  flowering.  About  a 
fortnight  after  flowering  and  pruning  repot  if  needed,  and  let  the  plants 
have  a  very  light  position  under  glass  until  the  weather  permits  their 
being  placed  in  the  open  air,  then 
plunge  in  an  open  sunny  position, 
watering  them  the  same  as  you  do 
Chrysanthemums.  If  you  want  very 
large  bushes  in  the  shortest  time  you 
may  plant  out  the  Deutzias  and  repot 
in  the  autumn ;  but  plants  so  treated 
do  not  usually  flower  so  freely  as 
those  kept  in  pots. 
Peas  in  Pots  (Amateur). — Peas 
are  not  amenable  to  hard  forcing, 
but  may  .be  forwarded  considerably 
under  glass.  Comparatively  tall 
growing  varieties  cap  be  successfully 
grown  under  glass  in  pots  or  other¬ 
wise,  but  all  things  considered,  English 
Wonder,  Chelsea  Gem,  and  William 
Hurst  are  the  best  for  pot  culture. 
Old  Chrysanthemum  soil  suits  Peas 
well.  Well  drain  the  pots  and  three 
parts  fill  with  soil,  making  this  firm. 
Sow  the  seed  somewhat  thinly,  and 
cover  with  1  inch  of  soil.  Fifty  pots 
is  none  too  many  for  a  batch,  about 
three  dishes  being  had  from  these, 
and  a  succession  should  be  provided 
by  making  another  sowing  a  fort¬ 
night  later.  The  pots  may  be  arranged 
on  the  beds  or  floors  of  vineries  or 
Peach  houses,  being  gently  forced 
till  the  plants  are  up,  when  the  high 
back  shelves,  front  stages,  and  front 
beds  in  the  same  houses  will  be  the 
best  places  till  such  time  as  the 
night  temperature  exoeeds  55°,  when  other  light  but  cooler  quarters 
should  be  assigned  the  Peas.  Not  till  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots 
will  much  water  be  needed,  after  which  the  plants  will  take  it  and  liquid 
manure  freely. 
Mildew  on  Roses  (B.  T.). — If  the  specks  are  on  the  old  leaves  they 
will  probably  do  little  harm  ;  if  on  the  young  cut  the  shoots  off  and  burn 
them.  Still  if  the  attack  is  severe  and  it  is  mildew,  it  should  be 
destroyed.  A  great  grower  says  the  following  is  a  perfect  cure  for 
mildew  : — -1  lb.  softsoap,  J  lb.  sulphur,  and  10  gallons  of  soft  water ; 
mix  with  boiling  water,  and  add  the  remaining  quantity  cold,  stir 
constantly  while  using.  Of  course  you  can  mix  a  less  quantity, 
preserving  the  proportion.  It;  should  be  thoroughly  applied  on  every 
mild  morning  when  plenty  of  air  can  be  given  afterwards,  and  the  pipes 
heated  for  drying  the  house  quickly.  Any  plants  that  may  be  in  should 
be  removed,  or  they  might  be  injured  by  the  drenching  to  which  they 
would  be  subjected.  The  house  should  be  kept  cool,  unless  plants  in  it 
require  heat,  for  the  next  month  or  two. 
Forcing  Melons  (F.  B.). — Melons,  to  ripen  in  May,  ought  now  to  be 
starting,  the  plants  grown  in  ample  heat  and  kept  near  the  glass, 
so  as  to  have  them  sturdy,  nob  planting  out  until  they  are  strong,  say  a 
foot  high,  having  them  supported  by  small  sticks  and  the  laterals 
rubbed  off  as  they  show.  Plants  will  do  well  in  boxes  about  18  inches 
square,  and  a  foot  or  15  inches  in  depth,  the  plants  trained  with  a  single 
stem,  rubbing  off  all  laterals  to  the  height  of  the  bottom  wire  of  the 
trellis,  and  then  every  other  lateral  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  line.  The 
laterals  left  will  probably  show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint,  and  if 
the  blossoms  be  duly  impregnated  the  fruits  will  set  and  swell,  ripening 
from  an  early  January  sowing  in  May.  If  no  fruit  is  shown  on  the  first 
lateral,  stop  at  the  second  joint,  and  plenty  will  appear  on  the  sub¬ 
laterals,  but  the  crop  will  be  about  three  weeks  later  in  ripening. 
