34 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  10,  1901. 
this,  I  will  relate  an  instance  that  has  come  to  my  knowledge  of  a 
certain  duke,  “on  having  occasion  to  appoint  a  new  gardener,”  was 
reputed  to  have  said  that  he  was  determined  not  to  engage  one  who,  by 
his  education,  was  likely  to  aspire  to  offices  not  appertaining  to  his 
garden.  I  have  no  doubt  many  will  think  my  view  is  pessimistic,  if 
they  do  not  think  it  entirely  wrong.  Well,  I  can  only  say  that  I  hope  I 
am,  for  the  sake  of  those  that  desire  to  succeed.  In  conclusion,  I  trust 
you  will  forgive  my  presumption  in  intruding  here,  and  overlook  all 
the  imperfections  of  the  composition,  and  give  it  a  corner  in  your 
valuable  Journal,  a  diligent  perusal  of  which  is  equal  to  half  a  dozen 
sciences.  Possibly  some  able  reader  will  be  able  to  give  the  desired 
condemnation  to  this  view,  which  hitherto  I  have  not  seen  in  your 
pages,  and  which  is  the  sincere  opinion  of — A  Working  Gardener. 
Plant  Elements. 
I  WAS  much  interested  in  the  remarks  of  your  correspondent,  Mr. 
W.  Taylor  (page  557).  The  soil  at  Longleat  was  undoubtedly  greatly 
deficient  in  the  element  lime,  and  I  should  imagine  that,  there,  the  fruit 
trees  suffered  from  canker,  and  that  the  disease  of  club-foot  infested 
the  Cabbages,  Broccoli,  and  others  of  the  Brassica  family  ;  that  the 
foliage  of  the  trees  was  generally  of  a  dark  green  hue,  and  that  fruit 
would  hang  a  long  time  on  the  trees  before  being  fully  matured.  In 
other  words  there  was  a  tendency  to  luxuriance  of  vegetation  rather 
than  to  maturation  of  fruit. 
With  regard  to  the  soil  with  which  Mr.  Taylor  has  at  present  to 
deal,  the  formation  as  described  would  lead  one  to  suppose  that  there  is 
a  sufficiency  of  phosphate,  but  that  it  exists  in  an  insoluble  condition, 
and  therefore  cannot  properly  nourish  the  growing  plants.  I  would 
advise  that  from  3  to  4  cwt.  of  superphosphate  per  acre  be  applied,  of 
the  grade  containing  from  30  to  35  per  cent,  of  soluble  phosphates.  I 
think  this  would  be  preferable  to  basic  slag,  which  is  a  very  slowly 
acting  manure,  and  is  more  adapted  for  fruit  trees  and  permanent 
pastures  than  for  vegetables.  Double  the  quantity  of  basic  slag  is 
required  to  produce  the  same  effect  as  well-made  superphosphate.  An 
overdose  will  not  injure  plants.  Dissolved  bones  contain,  besides  the 
ingredients,  phosphates  and  lime,  from  12  to  17  per  cent,  of  moisture, 
from  12  to  IS  per  cent,  of  organic  matter,  which  will  contain  from 
1  to  2£  per  cent,  of  ammonia,  and  from  2  to  6  per  cent,  of  insoluble 
silicious  matter.  There  is  no  iron  in  bones  available  as  plant  food. 
— J.  J.  Willis,  Harpenden. 
0 
- 1  I - 
Lucnlia  gratissinia. 
This  beautiful  plant  is  worthily  esteemed  for  the  globular  cymes 
of  pick  fragrant  flowers  that  are  produced  so  freely  under  suitable 
culture.  The  time  of  year  at  which  the  Luculia  flowers — viz., 
autumn  and  winter — is  also  a  recommendation  of  considerable 
importance,  for  not  only  is  the  plant  highly  decorative,  either  grown 
in  pots  or  planted  out  in  prepared  borders  in  a  greenhouse,  but  its 
value  is  inestimable  for  cutting  purposes,  as  the  flowers  are  so  con¬ 
tinuously  and  abundantly  produced.  Such  qualities  as  those 
mentioned  justly  entitle  the  Luculia  to  more  general  notice  and 
cultivation;  and  as  its  requirements  am  few,  any  person  who  possesses 
a  greenhouse  or  conservatory  may  safely  venture  to  obtain  a  specimen. 
When  planted  out  it  rapidly  acquires  the  proportions  of  a  shrub  or 
small  tree,  and  requires  to  be  well  pruned  after  flowering  is  over  ;  but 
perhaps  it  is  of  more  general  value  when  grown  in  pots  of  medium 
size,  say  6-inch,  and  plants  in  that  size  pots  or  a  trifle  larger  may  by 
good  treatment  be  had  bearing  large  clusters  of  flowers. 
With  regard  to  cultivation,  it  is  especially  averse  to  a  super¬ 
abundance  of  water  or  the  least  approach  to  stagnation  at  the  roots 
or  in  the  atmosphere.  Therefore  a  porous  soil  must  be  provided, 
composed  of  loam,  peat,  leaf  soil,  sand,  and  a  few  pieces  of  charcoal, 
thoroughly  incorporated;  and  whether  the  plant  be  in  a  pot  or  a 
border,  the  drainage  must  be  well  attended  to.  When  growing  freely, 
or  about  to  flower,  weak  liquid  manure  maybe  occasionally  supplied  with 
advantage.  Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  taking  cuttings  of  the 
young  firm  wood,  with  a  heel  of  the  old  wood  attached,  and  inserting 
them  in  similar  soil  to  that  already  described,  employing  rather  more 
sand.  They  should  be  placed  near  the  sides  of  the  pots,  the  latter 
being  plunged  in  good  bottom  heat  and  covered  with  a  bell-glass. 
When  the  cuttings  are  rooted  shake  them  out  carefully,  and  pot  them 
singly  in  thumb  or  3-inch  pots,  afterwards  increasing  the  root  room  as 
the  plants  advance  in  growth. 
When  thoroughly  established  they  may  be  grown  in  any  cool  or 
intermediate  house  where  the  temperature  is  not  allowed  to  fall  much 
below  50°  at  night  at  any  period  of  the  year.  If  planted  out  they 
succeed  well  under  similar  treatment  to  the  Camellia -in  respect  to 
temperature  and  moisture. — Grower. 
Three  Good  Roses. 
The  accompanying  illustration  represents  three  Roses  that  are 
worthy  of  being  grown  in  every  collection.  The  engraving  has  been 
prepared  from  blooms  grown  in  the  nursery  of  Messrs.  W.  Paul  and 
Son,  Wall  ham  Cross,  and  we  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Arthur  Paul  for  the 
following  description  of  the  varieties  depicted. 
White  Lady  — A  Hybrid  Tea-scented  variety,  sent  out  by  Messrs. 
Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  ol  Waltham  Cross.  Colour  creamy  white,  flowers 
of  largest  size,  with  immense  Magnolia-like  petals,  produced  in  great 
profusion.  One  of  the  handsomest,  most  distinct,  and  most  effective 
Roses  in  the  garden.  A  fine  exhibition  flower,  for  which  purpose  the 
blooms  should  be  cut  young  (left  flower). 
Grand  Due  Adolphe  de  Luxembourg. — A  very  distinct  and 
handsome  Hybrid  Tea  Rose,  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Soupert  &  Notting, 
of  Luxembourg.  The  petals  are  rosy  red  on  the  one  side  and  brilliant 
lake  on  the  reverse,  two  distinct  shades  of  colour,  the  contrast  between 
them  forming  one  of  the  chief  beauties  of  the  flower.  The  plant  is  of 
vigorous  growth,  the  flowers  are  produced  in  profusion,  and  the  variety 
is  one  of  the  most  effective  in  the  garden  (upper  flower). 
Victor  Hugo. — A  Hybrid  Perpetual  sent  out  by  Mons.  Schwartz, 
of  Lyons.  The  flowers  are  remarkable  for  the  brilli  mey  of  their 
colour,  being  bright  scarlet  shaded  with  black.  They  are  of  moderate 
size  and  freely  produced.  The  plant  is  of  moderate  growth  (right 
flower). 
Climbing  Tea  Roses  in  Pots. 
For  culture  under  glass,  whether  in  pots,  or  planted  in  the  side 
borders,  few  plants  will  produce  a  better  or  more  ceriain  crop  of  bloom 
than  Tea  Roses.  With  a  few  of  the  newer  additions  we  now  possess 
a  grand  assortment  of  colour  ;  while  those  who  prefer  to  adhere  to  the 
older  varieties  will  not  err  in  growing  Marshal  Niel,  Climbing  Perle 
des  Jardihs,  Climbing  Niphetos,  W.  A.  Richardson,  Reine  Marie 
Henriette,  and  JTIdeal. 
There  is  a  decided  advantage  in  having  these  climbers  in  pots  when 
early  forced  blooms  are  required.  They  should  be  grown  similarly  to 
young  Vines,  one  or  two  good  rods  being  much  better  than  a  number 
of  medium  growths.  December  and  January  are  two  excellent  months 
to  commence  operations,  as  we  are  in  the  midst  of  grafting.  Seedling 
Briers  established  in  small  pots  are  the  best  stock,  being  closely  followed 
by  Brier  cuttings,  which  may  be  potted  at  once,  and  then  worked  a  few 
weeks  later,  or  be  grafted  before  potting.  I  like  to  have  the  roots  of 
stocks  partly  established,  and  on  the  point  of  producing  a  good  flow  of 
sap.  It  is  of  greater  importance  than  is  generally  recognised  to  have 
the  stocks  in  the  exact  stage  I  will  describe.  They  should  not  be 
sufficiently  forward  to  receive  a  check  to  root  action  when  cut  down 
for  receiving  the  graft,  nor  should  they  be  quite  dormant.  Catch 
them  when  new  roots  are  starting  freely,  and  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  long  ;  no  more.  Where  stocks  are  not  available,  portions  of  healthy 
Brier  roots  will  do  almost  as  well.  There  is  a  great  advantage  in  the 
latter  as  regards  probable  suckers.  It  iB  well  to  secure  the  roots  in 
suitable  pieces,  and  to  lay  them  in  soil  under  cover  for  a  couple  of 
weeks  before  grafting,  if  they  are  to  be  worked  previous  to  being 
potted.  They  are  easier  to  handle  thus,  and  if  the  rise  of  sap  be 
encouraged  in  this  way  it  is  more  nearly  approaching  that  of  the 
graft.  The  latter  are  much  best  when  procured  from  plants  under  glass, 
and  unless  the  roots  and  stocks  are  prepared  in  the  manner  indicated 
we  get  the  sap  of  grafts  a  little  more  forward  than  that  of  the  stock, 
whereas  the  contrary  is  far  preferable. 
When  grafted  they  should  be  placed  in  a  close  case,  having  a 
gentle  bottom  heat ;  65°  is  a  good  temperature.  Grafting  wax,  moss, 
clay,  or  any  other  substance  are  not  used  by  the  majority  of  trade 
growers  to  keep  air  from  the  wound  while  a  junction  is  being  made, 
as  healthy  scions  and  stocks  unite  better  without  such  aids.  Some 
few  are  certain  to  grow  in  advance  of  the  rest,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
remove  them  from  the  case  when  young  growth  of  about  2  inches 
has  formed.  On  no  account  must  they  receive  any  severe  check,  or 
strong  rods  of  growth  cannot  be  produced.  Repot  them  when 
necessary,  using  a  slightly  richer  compost  each  time.  I  do  not  care 
for  them  in  larger  than  6  to  7-inch  pots  during  the  first  summer,  as  I 
find  the  wood  matures  better,  and  quite  enough  length  can  be 
obtained  if  the  plants  are  treated  generously.  Frequent  syringing  and 
full  exposure  to  sun,  especially  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  summer, 
are  most  essential.  It  is  best  to  remove  them  to  the  open  by  the 
