42 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  10,  1901. 
the  depth  of  2  feet,  keeping  the  good  soil  near  the  surface  and  not 
burying  it  and  bringing  the  lower  and  indifferent  material  to  the  top. 
The  reversal  of  the  two  spits  of  soil  may  in  some  cases  be  carried  out, 
as,  for  instance,  where  it  is  of  uniform  quality  to  the  depth  named. 
Early  preparation  permits  of  the  ground  becoming  consolidated  and  in 
workable  condition  for  planting  at  a  suitable  period. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Houses. — Trees  that  have 
been  forced  regularly  so  as  to  start  at  the  “  dead  ”  of  winter  do  so  with 
great  promptitude,  and  go  on  splendidly  with  very  little  excitement. 
But  to  keep  them  in  good  progress  the  night  temperature  must  be  50°, 
or  even  55°  during  mild  weather,  after  the  petals  are  fully  expanded, 
the  latter  heat  being  sufficient  by  day  in  severe  weather  by  artificial 
means  when  the  sky  is  overcast,  65°  by  day  from  sun  heat,  and  if  the 
air  be  mild  a  few  degrees  more  may  be  allowed.  Syringing  must  cease 
directly  the  anthers  show  clear  of  the  petals,  but  damping  the  floor  and 
border  on  bright  days  does  good  by  maintaining  a  genial  atmosphere, 
practising  it  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon.  Lose  no  opportunity 
of  ventilating  freely  when  external  conditions  are  favourable,  leaving  a 
little  on  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house,  increasing  it  early  in  the 
day,  and  having  it  free  from  55°  and  full  at  65°.  When  the  pollen  is 
dry  choose  the  warmest  and  driest  part  of  the  day  for  aiding  its 
distribution  by  shaking  the  trees  or  trellis,  or  taking  a  camel-hair 
brush  and  applying  it  to  the  stigmas.  If  there  be  any  deficiency  of 
pollen  of  any  variety  some  should  be  taken  from  those  that  afford  it 
plentifully.  Inside  borders  must  not  be  neglected  for  water,  and  those 
outside  should  be  protected  with  litter  or  similar  material  against  frost, 
avoiding  fermenting  substances. 
Disbudding  must  not  be  done  hurriedly,  but  any  strong  shoots  of  the 
previous  year  having  a  tendency  to  push  growth  in  advance  of  the 
others  may  be  commenced  with,  first  removing  the  growths  on  the  under¬ 
side  of  the  shoots,  and  then  the  side  growths  to  the  number  required 
— namely,  one  growth  from  as  near  the  base  as  possible  to  supplant 
that  now  fruiting,  and  another,  or  more,  above  or  on  a  level  with  fru  t, 
and  which  should  be  pinched  to  a  few  inches  of  growth.  Or  if  the  shoot 
be  an  extension  leave  growths  at  about  every  15  or  18  inches  to  form 
the  bearing  shoots  of  next  season,  continuing  those  with  the  leader 
intact.  Disbudding,  however,  should  be  commenced  before  the  shoots 
are  an  inch  long,  and  be  continued  at  short  intervals  until  no  more 
shoots  are  left  than  will  be  necessary  for  furnishing  the  trees  with  the 
essential  wood  for  the  ensuing  season’s  bearing.  After  the  fruits  are 
set  an  occasional  syringing  will  assist  the  trees  to  cast  off  the  remains 
of  the  blossoms,  yet  avoid  heavy  syringings,  which  have  a  tendency  to 
weaken  the  blossoms. 
Houses  to  Afford  Ripe  Fruit  Early  in  June. — The  trees  must  now  be 
started,  the  varieties  being  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Stirling 
■Castle,  Dvmond,  Royal  George,  Noblesse,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Goshawk, 
and  Bellegarde  Peaches;  Lord  Napier,  Early  Rivers,  Stanwick  Elruge, 
Dryden,  and  Humboldt  Nectarines.  The  house  corresponds  to  the 
first  in  many  establishments,  which  with  the  very  early  varieties,  such 
as  Alexander  or  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with  Cardinal 
Nectarine,  give  ripe  fruit  about  the  middle  of  May,  the  house  being 
closed  early  in  the  new  year.  Employ  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  a  dry 
temperature  of  50°,  raising  it  early  to  insure  the  development  of  the 
blossom  with  light  and  due  airing,  increasing  the  veutilatiou  at  55°, 
avoiding  cold  currents,  and  allowing  an  advance  of  5°  to  10°  from  sun 
heat  and  corresponding  ventilation.  A  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45° 
is  sufficient  until  the  blossom  is  well  advanced  for  expansion,  when  it 
should  be  gradually  raised  to  50°. 
Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  on  fine  days 
until  the  anthers  are  exposed,  when  damping  the  borders  and  paths 
will  be  sufficient,  admitting  a  little  air  constantly,  with  a  genial  warmth 
in  the  hot-water  pipes.  When  the  pollen  becomes  ripe  artificial 
fertilisation  may  be  resorted  to.  If  water  is  wanted  give  a  thorough 
supply,  affording  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees,  but  warmed  to  the 
temperature  of  the  house.  Where  the  blossom  buds  are  superabundant 
remove  those  on  the  under  side  or  at  the  back  of  the  trellis  by  drawing 
the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the  growths. 
Succession  Houses. — It  is  not  sound  and  safe  practice  to  defer 
pruning  and  dressing  the  trees  until  the  buds  commence  swelling. 
There  is  then  danger  of  dislocating  the  blossom  buds,  and  insecticides 
are  more  or  less  harmful.  If  any  trees  are  swelling  the  buds  more 
rapidly  than  is  desired,  as  occurs  when  the  houses  have  been  used  for 
plants,  a  oovering  of  mats  over  the  roof-lights  will  prevent  the 
temperature  being  raised  by  sun  heat  to  a  prejudicial  degree,  retarding 
the  flowering  considerably.  Late  flowering  is  mostly  a  sign  of  a  good 
set,  the  sap  being  less  active,  and  does  not  evaporate  because  the  wood 
is  riper,  thereby  not  exciting  root  and  top  growth  unduly.  Where  the 
roof-lights  are  off  there  will  be  no  occasion  for  retarding  the  blossoms, 
as  the  weather  will  do  that  better  than  any  artificial  means.  Where  the 
roof-lights  are  fixed,  the  house  should  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible  by 
free  ventilation. 
The  house  to  be  started  early  in  February,  and  the  trees  not 
previously  forced,  should  now  be  closed,  but  if  regularly  started  at  that 
time  they  will  not  require  any  inducement  to  start  at  the  proper  time. 
The  borders  must  be  brought  into  a  properly  moist  condition,  merely 
excluding  frost,  and  ventilating  fully  abeve  50°. 
Late  Houses.- — Lee  the  roof-lights  remain  off  these  until  the  blossom 
buds  swell.  Complete,  however,  the  pruning  and  dressing  of  the  trees 
and  cleansing  the  house  as  favourable  weather  for  suoh  work  permits. 
The  buds  take  no  harm  until  they  commence  swelling,  and  even  then 
are  proof  against  frost  until  the  flowers  show  clear  of  the  scales  of  the 
buds.  Then  the  lights  may  be  put  on,  for  which  there  is  no  necessity 
until  the  middle  of  February  or  early  in  March.  Where  the  roof-lights 
are  fixed  air  must  be  given  to  the  fullest  extent,  keeping  as  cool  as 
possible,  and  taking  care  that  the  trees  do  not  suffer  from  lack  of 
moisture  at  the  roots. 
Uo  AH  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Peas  for  Exhibition  (T.  0.  H.). — The  number  containing  the  article 
on  this  subject  is  out  of  print;  we  therefore  reproduce  it  on  page  30, 
as  it  will  be  of  interest  to  other  readers  as  well  as  yourself. 
Treatment  of  Camellia  (B.  A.). — The  temperature  need  not  be  above 
45°  for  your  Camellia.  The  chief  point  in  managing  your  plant  is  the 
exercise  of  sound  judgment  in  watering.  If  the  roots  once  get  too 
dry  the  buds  will  fall,  while  if  the  soil  is  made  sour  by  too  much 
water  the  roots  decay.  As  often  as  the  soil  gets  dry  enough  to  slightly 
crumble  when  rubbed,  give  water  as  warm  as  the  house  is  to  pass 
right  through  the  mass.  So  long  as  the  soil  feels  like  paste  or  putty 
when  rubbed  more  water  would  do  harm.  The  soil  must  not  shrink 
from  the  sides  of  the  pot  by  getting  too  dry.  Draw  a  damp  sponge  over 
the  leaves  occasionally  on  dry  days. 
Climbers  for  Stove  and  Greenhouse  (Amateur). — For  the  stove, 
Stephanotis  floribunda,  Allamanda  Hendersoni,  Clerodendron 
Balfourianum,  and  Jasminum  Sambac  flore-pleno,  when  well  grown, 
afford  acceptable  flowers  for  cutting.  For  the  greenhouse,  Lonicera 
sempetflorens,  Solanum  jasminoides,  Hardenbergia  monophylla,  and 
Roses  Marechal  Niel,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  and  W.  A.  Richardson.  Lapagerias 
afford  beautiful  flowers  for  cutting ;  but  the  plants  do  not  always  arrive 
at  a  flowering  state  quiokly.  For  affording  elegant  leaves  for  arranging 
with  flowers  you  should  plant  Asparagus  plumosus.  It  grows  in  a 
stove  and  warm  greenhouse,  preferring  shade  to  the  full  sun.  Many 
persons  prefer  it  to  the  most  graceful  of  Ferns. 
Destroying  Mealy  Bug  (2V.  N.). —  Mealy  bug  can  only  be  exterminated 
from  plants,  greenhouses,  and  conservatories  by  careful  and  persistent 
efforts.  The  first  matter  to  attend  to  is  to  thoroughly  clean  each  plant. 
Wherever  it  is  possible  lay  a  plant  on  its  side  and  give  a  thorough 
syringing  so  as  to  remove  as  many  of  the  insects  as  possible,  using 
either  clean  water  or  a  solution  of  softsoap  at  the  rate  of  2  ozs.  of 
the  soap  to  the  gallon  of  water.  Some  of  the  hard  wooded  plants 
might  have  a  wineglassful  of  petroleum  mixed  in  the  soapy  solution; 
but  the  whole  must  be'  constantly  stirred  during  the  application  of  it 
to  the  plants  to  prevent  the  oil  settling  on  the  surface.  All  worthless 
plaats  should  be  burnt.  When  the  plants  have  been  cleaned  every 
part  of  the  structure  must  be  washed  down,  and  if  possible  the  wood¬ 
work  painted,  the  walls  limewashed,  and  the  surface  of  the  borders 
removed.  All  the  advertised  insecticides  are  as  good  as  the’ soap 
solution,  but  anything  to  be  effective  must  be  employed  whenever  the 
insects  are  seen.  Especial  care  is  needed  in  spring  and  summer,  as 
then  the  insects  are  most  active  and  reproductive. 
Cotoneaster  Simmonsi  (W.  W.  B.). — This  berry-bearing  shrub  is 
usually  trained  to  walls,  bat  is  also  suitable  for  sloping  banks,  to  which 
the  branches  can  be  drawn  as  may  be  needed  with  stout  hooked  pegs  ; 
and  if  the  plants  receive  sun  enough  for  ripening  the  wood,  flowers  and 
fruits  will  follow.  If  your  plants  had  abundance  of  bu3hy  fibrous  roots 
they  will,  perhaps,  support  the  long  stems  ;  but  if  the  roots  were  few 
and  much  broken  in  the  process  of  lifting  it  will  be  desirable  to  out 
back  the  stems  in  the  same  proportion,  or  more  than  half  their  length, 
for  insuring  good  growth  next  year.  If  you  are  in  doubt  whether  to 
prune  or  not,  you  had  better  use  the  knife,  and  you  will  not  be  likely  to 
err  in  shortening  the  stems  freely.  Spread  a  layer  of  manure  on  the 
soil  over  the  roots  and  beyond  their  extension,  leaving  it  to  decay,  and 
if  the  spring  and  summer  prove  dry  give  water  copiously  from  time  to 
time.  Scarcely  any  pruning  will  be  required  when  the  plants  are 
established,  and  only  a  little  thinning  may  be  needed  if  the  growths  are 
muoh  crowded.  When  once  fairly  growing,  however,  Cotoneastera 
usually  take  care  of  themselves. 
