January  17,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
49 
Impostors’  Grafting. 
Many  persons  who  understand  that  grafting  is  a  useful  and 
ordinary  way  of  increasing  plants  do  not,  however,  clearly  comprehend 
the  limitations  which  Nature  has  put  to  the  indefinite  application  of  it. 
Those  who  are  a  little  wiser  than  their  neighbours  in  this  respect 
frequently  trv  and  impose  upon  the  credulity  of  their  friends  by 
telling  plausible  hoaxes  about  grafting,  while  some  are  to  be  found 
who  repeat  in  good  faith  absurdities  which  have  been  disproven  again 
and  again,  but  reappear  with  a  vitality  exceeding  that  of  the  proverbial 
cat.  Thus,  there  are  many  who  are  still  capable  of  swallowing  the 
story  of  the  Orange  becoming  blood-red  in  consequence  of  its  being 
grafted  upon  the  Pomegranate,  and  that  table  of  the  Rose  growing 
black  when  ingrafted  upon  the  stock  of  the  Black  Currant  bush. 
A  good  classical  education  has  not  preserved  so-called  educated 
persons  from  making  themselves  ridiculous  in  this  matter.  Many 
years  ago  a  certain-  English  peer  brought  home  from  the  classic 
region  of  Italy  an  Orange  tree,  wherefrom  there  emerged  a  Jasmine, 
a  Myrtle,  a  Honeysuckle,  and  an  Olive.  The  old  Latin  writers  having 
asserted  that  they  had  seen  Apples  growing  on  Plane  trees,  Vines 
upon  Willows,  and  Olives  upon  Figs,  this  phenomenon  obtained 
credence  with  many  who  had  nad  a  university  education  of  the  old 
sort,  until  it  became  known  that  the  whole  thing  is  a  common  “  plant” 
(so  to  speak),  played  off  by  Italian  impostors  upon  credulous  visitors. 
Eighteen  centuries  ago  the  Roman  naturalist  Pliny  described 
seeing  a  tree  in  the  garden  of  his  friend  Lucullus,  the  branches  of 
which  produced  Pears,  Figs,  Apples,  Plums,  Olives,  Almonds,  and 
■Grapes.  He  remarks,  however,  that  it  died  some  years  afterwards. 
At  the  present  day  it  is  possible  to  purchase  from  gardeners  in  Italy 
stocks,  such  as  the  Orange,  Myrtle,  and  Pomegranate,  out  of  which 
are  growing  Jasmines,  Roses,  Honeysuckles,  and  other  unrelated  plants. 
There  is,  however,  no  genuine  grafting.  The  stock  is  a  mere  hollow 
cylinder,  through  which  the  stems  of  the  others  are  drawn,  so  that 
the  roots  of  all  commingle  below,  while  the  branches  intertwine  above. 
The  Chinese  are  more  skilful  than  the  Italians  in  this  particular,  for 
they  can  make  the  Photinia  (which  is  a  Thorn)  grow  upon  the  Juniper, 
and  the  Myrica  upon  the  Pine. 
It  would  be  well,  therefore,  for  readers  to  remember  that  plants 
require  to  be  very  closely  related  in  order  that  the  grafting  of  one 
upon  the  other  may  succeed.  Indeed,  the  most  ordinary  and  useful 
application  of  the  principle  is  made  in  one  family — the  Rosaceae — 
and  though  vthe  grafting  of  plants  in  other  orders  can  be  effected,  it 
is  not  common,  and  often  is  merely  of  an  experimental  character. 
The  Rose,  the  Hawthorn,  the  Apple,  the  Quince,  the  Medlar,  the 
Pear,  the  Plum,  the  Green  Gage,  the  Apricot,  the  Almond,  the  Peach, 
.the  Nectarine,  the  Cherry,  the  Mountain  Ash,  the  Wild  Service 
Tree,  and  others  all  belong  to  the  order  of  Rosaceous  plants.  Even 
as  between  these  cited  above  there  is  not  that  affinity  which  suffices 
to  make  successful  grafting  practicable  between  them  all.  The  Rose 
■must  be  grafted  on  the  Brier  or  some  form  of  Rose  stock,  the  Apple 
on  the  Crab  or  some  form  of  Apple  stock  ;  the  Hawthorn,  Pear,  Quince, 
and  Medlar  are,  roughly  speaking,  interchangeable  on  one  another’s 
stocks.  The  Peach,  Nectarine,  Apricot,  and  Green  Gage  succeed  best 
upon  the  Plum  stock,  though  they  have  an  affinity  for  that  of  the 
Almond.  Pears  and  Peaches  can  also  be  grafted  upon  the  Mountain 
Ash.  Cherries  must  be  grafted  upon  the  Cherry  stock  exclusively. 
The  only  other  fam  ly  in  which  there  is  made  a  general  appli¬ 
cation  of  the  principle  of  grafting  is  the  Aurantiacese.  The  Orange 
and  the  Lemon  being  kindred  fruits,  and,  like  those  before  mentioned, 
desirable  of  increase  on  account  of  their  utility,  grafting  has  been 
practised  as  a  speedy  method  of  diffusing  new  varieties.  This  is, 
indeed,  the  great  service  of  grafting.  Every  new  variety  of  fruit  or 
flower  is  procured  by  cross-fertilisation  of  the  flowers.  Then  from  the 
seed  come  the  seedlings.  These  would,  however,  seldom  bear  fruit 
sufficient  for  the  demand,  so  their  branches  are  cut  off  in  scions  and 
grafted  separately  upon  kindred  stocks  of  which  there  is  an  unlimited 
supply,  each  becoming  a  specimen  of  the  new  variety. 
Before,  therefore,  people  believe  extraordinary  stories  about 
grafting  different  plants  upon  each  other,  they  should  first  ascertain 
their  relationship.  In  almost  every  case  the  relationship  is  a  very 
near  one.  The  Cherry  wili  certainly  take  upon  the  Laurel,  the  Lilac 
upon  the  Ash,  the  Olive  on  the  Phillyrea.  The  Lilac  his  been 
grafted  upon  the  Phillyrea,  the  Olive  upon  the  Ash,  the  Bignonia  upon 
the  Catalpa,  and  even  the  Pear  upon  the  Apple.  When,  however,  it 
is  asserted  that  plants  of  entirely  different  families  such  as  those 
mentioned  by  the  Latin  writers,  or  those  exhibited  by  the  Italian 
manipulators  of  the  “Impostors’  Graft”  instanced  above,  can 
unite,  or  that  the  Orange  can  be  grafted  upon  the  Pomegranate, 
experience  contradicts  it,  and  one  may  safely  say  the  statement  is 
untenable. — M.  H. 
Early  Radishes. 
During  the  early  months  of  the  year  Radishes  are  scarce,  mainly 
owing  to  the  lack  of  conveniences  and  facilities  for  growing  them. 
With  frames,  soil,  and  hotbeds  their  culture  for  the  next  three  months 
is  simple,  but  to  insure  a  regular  and  continuous  supply  of  tender  roots 
cf  good  colour  and  excellent  flavour  they  must  be  grown  quickly, 
sowing  the  seed  thinly  in  small  quantities  at  a  time. 
Hotbeds  that  will  afford  a  gentle  and  continuous  heat  for  a  length 
<  f  time  are  the  best.  The  materials  most  suitable  are  leaves  and  horse 
manure.  For  preference  use  Oak  or  Beech  leaves,  as  these  decompose 
more  slowly  than  other  leaves  do,  and  check  the  rapid  heating  of 
the  manure.  Mix  all  well  together,  and  when  the  heap  has  fermented 
for  several  days  turn  the  materials  over,  throwing  the  inside  of  the 
heap  to  the  outside  and  vice  versa.  This  insures  regular  fermentation 
throughout.  The  heap  is  then  ready  to  be  formed  into  a  hotbed, 
which  for  early  work  should  be  inside  a  brick  frame,  but  if  a  hotbed 
has  to  be  built  for  accommodating  a  frame  on  the  top  it  should  be 
made  wider  than  the  frame,  so  that  linings  of  fresh  warm  materials 
can  be  added  as  necessary  in  order  to  maintain  a  growing  temperature. 
In  placing  the  materials  together  make  them  firm,  as  by  this  means 
will  the  heat  be  steady  throughout  the  period  of  growth.  When  the 
bed  has  been  formed  a  covering  of  soil  to  the  extent  of  4  inches  may 
be  placed  upon  it,  using  that  of  a  light,  friable  character  free  from 
stones  or  anything  of  a  rough  nature. 
Sow  the  seeds  broadcast,  and  as  the  roots  are  perfectly  useless  if 
crowded,  it  is  simply  waste  ot  labour  and  also  seed  to  sow  thickly. 
After  sowing  cover  the  seeds  lightly  with  fine  mould.  Afford  a 
gentle  watering  with  tepid  water  to  induce  early  germination,  keeping 
the  frame  close  until  the  seedlings  appear.  Air  must  then  be  given 
as  freely  as  the  weather  allows.  The  surface  of  the  bed  may  be 
within  easy  distance  of  the  glass  when  the  bed  is  first  formed.  It 
will  sink  gradually  as  the  materials  decompose.  The  long-rooted 
varieties  are  the  best  for  forcing,  excellent  varieties  being  Wood’s 
Early  Frame  and  Sutton’s  Earliest  Frame.  The  white,  crimson,  and 
carmine  olive  shaped  varieties  are  good.  Among  these  the  French 
Breakfast,  of  which  there  are  many  selections,  are  all  more  or  less 
suitable  for  frame  culture  as  well  as  early  sowing  outdoors. — E.  D.  S. 
• - - - - - - 
A  Water  Lily  Pond. 
The  accompanying  ground  plan  and  sections  refer  to  a  certain 
“piece  of  water”  and  its  surrounding  ground.  The  formation  and 
planting  is  more  or  less  explained  in  the  references,  therefore  it  will 
suffice  to  observe  that  the  lake  or  widened  streamlet  is  situate!  at  the 
bottom  of  a  valley  or  dell,  and  flanked  on  each  side  with  trees  and 
shrubs  for  shelter.  Between  the  walks  and  water  no  tall  plants  are 
employed — thus  the  observer  has  unobstructed  view  of  the  lake  and 
its  occupants.  The  paths  are  also  so  arranged  that  the  aquatic  plants 
may  be  inspected  at  close  quarters. 
The  aim  of  the  plan  and  sections  is  to  suggest  adaptation  to 
positions  other  than  natural  ones,  and  on  land  not  holding  water.  Idea 
of  form  may  be  gleaned  from  the  ground  plan,  and  measure  of  depth 
deduced  from  the  sections.  According  to  the  area  and  levels  will  be 
the  amount  of  soil  excavated  in  making  the  pond  and  streamlet. 
This  material  can  be  utilised  in  forming  mounds,  and  as  these  imply 
hollows,  something,  even  on  a  flat  site,  in  the  wav  of  hill  and  dale,  of 
dry  places  and  damp  spots,  may  be  produced.  In  forming  banks  and 
mounds  the  excavated  soil  is  often  “  tipped  ”  upon  the  good  surfacing 
mould  with  the  result  of  relative  sterility.  This  should  be  avoided,  by 
first  removing  the  top  soil  and  placing  it  aside  conveniently  for 
surfacing  the  mounds  after  being  shaped  with  the  indifferent  excavated 
material.  The  top  spit  mould,  or  as  deeply,  as  good,  should  also  be  laid 
aside,  reserving  it  for  forming  banks  or  mounds,  or  for  providing 
good  earth  where  planting  is  contemplated. 
Having  made  the  excavation,  the  next  process  is  to  clay  the 
bottom  and  sides.  All  the  claying  must  be  on  solid  ground.  If  properly 
puddled  the  thickness  of  clay  shown  in  the  section  3  at  i  will  be 
sufficient.  These  ponds  are  liable  to  have  the  water  muddled  by 
waterfowl,  and  even  where  they  are  excluded  aquatic  plants  are  given 
to  run  all  over  the  bottom  and  sides.  Besides,  the  intention  is  to 
form  a  rock-pond,  have  clear  water  dotted  with  Lilies,  therefore  it  is 
cement-concreted.  What,  and  clayed  ?  Yes ;  I  prefer  to  make  doubly 
sure,  for  I  have  found  empty  cemented  lakes  much  prone  to  cracking, 
and  to  stop  the  rifts  and  rents  so  as  to  not  let  water  out  is  one  of 
those  things  I  have  often  seen  attempted  but  not  once  effected. 
For  the  grand  Water  Lilies  pockets  of  pigeon-holed  rockwork  are 
