64  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  January  17, 1901. 
much  wood  as  can  be  spared,  the  stems  placed  in  bottles  filled  with  soft 
water,  each  containing  a  few  pieces  of  charcoal.  The  bottles  must  be 
placed  in  an  inclining  position,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  bunches  hanging 
clear  of  the  sides,  and  they  may  be  as  far  apart  as  not  to  touch  each 
other  in  the  bunches.  Keep  the  temperature  of  the  room  at  40°  to  45°, 
examining  the  bunches  occasionally  for  decayed  berries,  which  must 
be  carefully  removed.  The  Vines  should  then  be  pruned,  dressing  the 
cuts  with  styptic  or  patent  knotting.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house, 
removing  the  loose  bark  from  the  Vines,  but  not  peeling,  scraping,  and 
scrubbing  them  so  as  to  injure  the  living  bark.  Wash  them  with  a 
solution  of  caustic  soda  and  pearlash,  1  oz.  each  to  a  gallon  and  a  half 
of  water,  apply  with  a  brush,  but  not  too  lavishly.  Air  should  be 
admitted  freely  in  favourable  weather,  seeking  to  give  the  Vines  as 
long  and  complete  rest  as  possible. 
Tlie  Kitchen  Garden. 
Early  Vegetables  in  Frames. 
At  no  season  of  the  year  are  cold  pits  and  frames  more  useful  than 
from  the  present  time  till  the  end  of  May,  during  which  period  they 
are  usually  filled  to  their  utmost  capacity.  In  establishments  where 
early  supplies  of  vegetables  are  in  demand  (and  where  are  they  not 
appreciated  ?)  every  inch  of  pit  space  that  can  be  spared  may  be  turned 
to  good  account  for  the  production  of  early  crops.  Potatoes  undoubtedly 
claim  first  attention,  and  the  present  is  an  excellent  time  to  prepare 
pits  or  frames  for  planting.  Brick  pits  deep  enough  to  admit  2  or 
3  feet  of  fermenting  materials  are  perhaps  the  best  of  all  structures 
for  the  purpose.  The  materials  ought  to  be  thoroughly  prepared  by 
frequent  turning,  in  the  way  so  often  advocated  in  the  pages  of  the 
Journal.  If  they  are  beaten  down  firmly  as  the  work  of  filling  proceeds 
violent  heat  and  great  subsidence  will  be  avoided.  A  6-inch  layer  of 
soil  in  the  first  instance  suffices,  if  the  Potatoes  are  planted  upon  it  and 
then  covered  with  an  additional  2  inches  of  soil.  If  the  surface  of  the 
bed  after  planting  is  a  foot  from  the  glass  at  the  back  of  the  pit  and 
9  inches  at  the  front,  there  will  usually  be  enough  space  for  the 
development  of  top  growth  after  the  bed  has  sunk.  All  Potatoes 
planted  in  frames  ought  first  to  be  sprouted  in  pots  or  boxes,  in  order 
to  forward  them  as  much  as  possible.  Various  practices  are  followed 
in  regard  to  the  distances  the  tubers  are  placed  apart.  Some  cultivators 
arrange  the  rows  a  foot  apart  and  the  sets  7  inches  asunder,  but  in  the 
confined  space  of  a  pit  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  heaviest 
weight  per  square  yard  can  be  obtained  by  planting  9  inches  apart 
each  way. 
In  regard  to  varieties  Sutton’s  Al,  Sharpe’s  Early  Six  Weeks,  and 
Improved  Ashleaf  are  all  early  and  good  in  quality.  Sharpe’s  Victor, 
though  very  early,  is  in  some  soils  so  deficient  in  quality  that  it  can 
scarcely  be  recommended  for  pit  culture.  When  the  tops  are  3  or 
4  inches  in  height  they  should  be  earthed  up  almost  to  the  points.  The 
earthing  in  pit  culture  of  course  means  covering  the  whole  of  the 
space  with  the  requisite  thickness  of  soil.  In  March  we  frequently  get 
severe  frosts,  and  watchfulness  is  then  necessary  in  regard  to  covering 
the  frames  at  night ;  the  sides  of  the  pit  as  well  as  the  glass  often  need 
covering  at  such  times.  During  bright  weather  the  frames  ought  to  be 
ventilated  freely  during  the  middle  of  the  day  and  closed  early  in  the 
afternoon  when  frost  is  apprehended.  It  is  usually  necessary  to  water 
once  or  twice,  the  last  application  being  given  two  or  three  weeks  before 
the  Potatoes  are  dry,  so  as  to  allow  the  skins  time  to  set  and  the  tubers 
to  ripen. 
Early  Carrots  to  be  pulled  while  quite  young  are  always  highly 
prized ;  for  producing  such  seed  should  be  sown  in  frames  during 
January,  on  hotbeds  prepared  as  advised  for  Potatoes.  The  row  may 
be  arranged  8  inches  apart,  and  if  the  seedlings  are  thinned  to  an  inch 
asunder  the  remainder  may  be  gradually  thinned  for  use  as  they 
advance  in  size.  Another  sowing  made  on  a  warm  border  in  February 
will  provide  a  succession  of  Carrots  for  pulling  young.  Sutton’s  Early 
Gem  and  Early  Nantes  are  excellent  varieties  for  the  above  purposes. 
Carrots  do  not  grow  very  quickly,  and  thus  in  the  case  of  sowings 
made  in  pits  an  opportunity  occurs  of  raising  early  Radishes  too.  If  a 
little  seed  is  scattered  broadcast  over  the  bed  the  crop  becomes  large 
enough  to  clear  by  the  time  the  Carrots  are  growing  freely.  Early 
Lettuce  may  also  be  raised  in  the  same  way,  or  by  sowing  in  drills 
between  the  Carrots.  Those  with  only  a  limited  amount  of  pit  space 
must  often  resort  to  ingenious  methods  to  turn  such  space  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  the  intelligent  cultivator  will  be  able  to  arrange  many 
combinations  of  double  cropping  on  the  lines  above  indicated. 
When  space  can  be  spared  in  deep  brick  or  rough  wooden  pits  it  is 
an  excellent  plan  to  grow  in  them  a  few  rows  of  Peas  to  provide  very 
early  supplies.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  pits,  or,  better  still,  in 
pots  placed  in  vineries  or  Peach  houses  (where  a  gentle  heat  is  kept 
up),  and,  when  2  or  3  inches  in  height,  planted  in  the  pits.  In 
either  case  the  rows  should  be  about  18  inches  apart.  Good 
varieties  for  the  purpose  are  American  Wonder,  English  Wonder, 
\  eitch  s  Chelsea  Gem,  and  Carter’s  Daisy  ;  all  of  which  grow  to  a  height 
of  from  12  to  15  inches,  but  although  so  short  I  have  always 
found  it  an  advantage  to  support  them  with  short  sticks.  When  they 
are  growing  freely,  if  plentifully  supplied  with  liquid  manure  it  is 
surprising  what  fine  crops  may  be  obtained  in  due  time. 
Fine  crops  of  dwarf  Beans  may  also  be  obtained  by  sowing  seeds  in 
cold  pits,  but  when  sown  before  the  middle  of  March  it  is  necessary 
to  have  fermenting  material  beneath  to  provide  against  injury  from 
frost  in  the  early  stages.  Three  inches  apart  is  a  suitable  distance  to 
leave  the  plants  if  the  rows  are  18  inches  apart.  Plenty  of  water 
during  the  growing  season  when  the  weather  is  bright  is  necessary  to 
insure  good  results  and  keep  the  plants  free  from  red  spider.  Osborn’s 
Forcing  and  Ne  Plus  Ultra  are  excellent  varieties  to  grow. — H.  D. 
■« 
J'0  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
Iiondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Leaf  Shedding  of  Hollies  (T.  P.). — The  leaves  are  cast,  as  a  rule,  in 
the  third  year,  and  in  some  cases  the  trees  retain  the  old  foliage  for  a 
longer  time,  the  retention  depending  in  a  great  measure  on  the  maturity 
of  the  growths  and  the  vigorous  character  of  the  plants.  The  trees 
that  were  cut  very  hard  in  last  spring  are  not  likely  to  lose  any  of  their 
leaves  until  the  third  year  or  the  season  after  next,  though  a  droughty 
period  this  season  may  cause  some  of  them  to  fall  from  the  lower  part 
of  last  year’s  wood. 
Transplanting  Clematis  ( R .  J.  E.). — Under  ordinary  circumstances 
a  Clematis  planted  in  front  of  a  Jasmine  would  impoverish  the  soil  and 
check  the  growth  of  the  latter ;  bub  in  your  case  a  check  is  evidently 
needed,  and  you  may  carry  out  your  plan.  It  is  for  you  to  consider, 
however,  whether  the  Clematis  will  not  grow  higher  than  you  wish, 
and,  in  popular  parlance,  “  smother  ”  a  portion  of  the  Jasmine,  though 
this  may,  to  some  extent  at  least,  be  prevented,  if  that  is  your  wish. 
It  could  be  safely  transplanted  now  on  a  mild  dry  day,  but  first  dig  out 
some  of  the  old  soil  near  the  Jasmine,  18  inches  square  and  deep,  filling 
with  fresh  soil  of  a  loamy  nature,  with  a  little  leaf  mould  and  wood 
ashes  mixed  therewith,  if  you  have  any.  Secure  all  the  roots  possible 
in  digging  up  the  plants,  and  if  a  little  soil  can  be  secured  adhering  to 
the  roots  all  the  better.  Plant  quickly,  placing  some  light  and  not  too 
wet  soil  in  contact  with  the  roots,  which  should  be  covered  4  inches 
deep,  pressing  the  soil  down  moderately  firm;  then  spread  a  layer 
3  inches  thick  of  light  manure  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  on  the  surface. 
Cut  this  season’s  shoot  back  to  the  lowest  good  stems,  and  afford  a  little 
protection  to  the  plant  during  a  term  of  severe  frost  that  may  possibly 
occur.  Should  this  set  in  before  planting  wait  till  the  first  fine  weather 
in  February ;  indeed  this  might  possibly  be  the  safest  plan  under  any 
circumstances,  as  no  one  knows  what  kind  of  weather  is  in  store. 
Cutting  some  of  the  roots  of  the  Jasmine  will  do  it  good. 
Cyclamen  persicum  not  Throwing  up  the  Flowers  (Zambesi). — 
There  does  not  appear  to  have  been  anything  amiss  with  the  treatment, 
the  seedlings  coming  from  a  well-known  firm,  and  potted  into  3-inoh 
pots  early  last  spring,  from  which  500  plants  were  shifted  into  5  and 
6-inch  pots,  and  now  “they  are  all  nice  healthy  clean  plants,  buc  there 
is  no  show  of  bloom  in  the  house,  because  only  two  or  three  blooms  at 
a  time  come  up  and  develop.  By  the  time  they  are  over  another  two 
or  three  come,  and  so  on,  although  the  oorms  are  literally  packed 
with  flower  buds,  and  on  most  of  the  plants  are  one  or  two  big 
leaves,  while  the  others  are  much  smaller.”  Such  is  a  very  accurate 
description  of  not  an  uncommon  state  of  affairs  in  Cyclamen  persicum 
culture,  which  frequently  arises  from  the  plants  not  being  encouraged 
sufficiently  during  the  period  of  making  their  growth  preparatory  to 
flowering,  the  foliage  being  uneven  and  comparatively  small,  hence  not 
capable  of.  elaborating  matter,  and  the  amount  stored  is  relatively 
meagre,  the  flower  buds  in  consequence  not  starting  simultaneously,  so 
as  to  produoe  a  good  display  of  bloom  at  one  time.  When  the  plants 
are  given  a  light  airy  place  near  the  glass,  shading  in  bright  weather 
only,  applying  water  liberally,  and  syringing  on  fine  afternoons  to  keep 
the  plants  clean  and  encourage  growth,  they  make  a  sturdy  and 
thoroughly  solidified  formation  of  foliage  and  buis,  and  given  a  short 
period  of  rest  start  into  bloom  with  a  slight  increase  of  warmth  and 
genial  atmospheric  conditions.  Wnat  there  may  be  defective  in  the 
atmospheric  circumstances  does  not  occur  to  us,  as  clearly  what  is 
suitable  for  the  development  of  a  few  should  be  eq  tally  so  for  many 
flowers  on  a  plant.  Possibly  the  burning  of  the  soil,  to  get  rid  of 
eelworm  and  wireworm,  has  rendered  the  compost  relatively  poor  in 
available  constituents,  and  the  growth  of  the  plants  ha3  been  indifferent 
in  consequence.  A  different  result  would  most  likely  have  been 
attained  had  the  plants  been  supplied  with  liquid  manure  during  the 
growing  season,  or  occasional  top-dressings  of  fertiliser  been  applied. 
To  help  the  plants  now,  apply  a  weak  solution  of  a  general  fertiliser, 
such  as  those  advertised. 
