112 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  7,  1901. 
Winter  Pruning. 
Pruning  is  not  a  mere  detail  of  garden  practice,  it  is  a  science, 
which  should  have  a  much  higher  place  in  horticulture  than  it 
has  held  hitherto.  Tie  amount  of  harm  done  in  gardens  with 
the  pruning  knife  by  ign  rant  men  is  beyond  belief,  and  by  way 
of  test  every  gardener  should  be  able  tc  give  a  satisfactory  reason 
for  each  cut  made,  to  explain  why  a  shoot  is  pruned  or  not  pruned, 
to  show  that  his  work  as  a  whole  is  conducive,  not  only  to  fruit¬ 
fulness,  but  to  the  production  of  fine  fruit.  In  many  gardens  the 
annual  pruning  of  fruit  trees  is  now  being  done  ;  the  trees  have 
produced  their  crop  of  vigorous  shoots,  which  are  now  being 
shortened  to  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  base.  What  is  the 
use  of  such  gr<  wth  ?  What  is  the  use  of  such  pruning  ?  Let 
me  invite  every  society  for  the  mutual  improvement  of  gardeners 
to  take  these  queries  for  discussion  at  their  next  meeting,  to  try 
and  make  it  clear  to  every  member  that  the  growth  of  a  fruit 
tree  is  for  the  production  of  fruit,  and  not  of  flower  sticks.  How 
anyone  can  go  on  year  after  year  contentedly  hacking  off  a 
thicket  of  wood,  and  getting  little,  if  any,  fruit  for  his  pains  is 
past  comprehension. 
The  remedy  is  obvious.  If  it  is  required  to  retain  growth  within 
prescribed  limits  and  symmetrical  outline  recourse  must  be  had  to 
root-pruning  to  check  undue  vigour  of  growth.  Coincident  with  this 
there  must  be  a  judicious  and  tentative  system  of  summer  pruning  to 
induce  a  free  production  of  blossom  buds,  a  rapid  development  of 
spurs.  Winter  pruning  of  such  trees  then  resolves  itself  into  the 
removal  of  useless  spray,  the  pruning  of  sub-laterals  shortened  at  the 
end  of  August — a  detail  of  summer  pruning — any  necessary  thinning 
of  spurs  and  spur  growth,  the  shortening  ol  leaders,  and  it  may  be  the 
thinning  of  branches  which  becomes  necessary  as  spur  development 
goes  on.  If  you  want  fine  fruit  and  plenty  of  it  from  spurs,  the  spurs 
must  be  fine.  Have  the  branches  of  pyramids,  cordons,  bushes, 
and  espaliers  wide  apart,  and  bristling  with  bold  fruit  buds,  and 
remember  that  branch-thinning  as  well  as  spur-thinning  often 
becomes  a  necessity. 
Where  freedom  of  growth  is  possible  the  shoots  of  trees  of 
exceptional  vigour  should  be  left  at  full  length  and  be  well  thinned. 
The  beneficial  effect  of  this  treatment  upon  both  Pears  and  Apples 
is  seen  either  in  the  first  or  second  year,  subsequently  in  the  increase 
of  fruit  buds.  It  is  not  altogether  a  question  of  sorts.  I  have  two 
trees  of  Lord  Suffield  Apple,  one  of  which  so  treated  bad  its  long 
robust  shoots  so  thickly  set  with  blossom  buds  that  it  was  laden  with 
a  heavy  crop  of  fruit  in  the  second  season.  On  the  other  fruit  came 
more  slowly,  but  it  came  eventually,  both  trees  being  changed  from 
barrenness  to  fruitfulness  by  the  simple  remedy  of  thinning  shoots 
freely,  and  leaving  the  remainder  unshortened.  The  treatment 
applies  to  established  tret  s,  often  old,  which  have  apparently  become 
irretrievably  barren.  No  fairer  sight  have  I  seen  in  fruit  cultuie 
than  some  old  Apple  espaliers  on  each  side  of  the  central  path  in 
the  garden  of  a  farmer  friend.  The  path  leading  from  the  entrance 
gate  to  the  front  door  of  the  farmhouse  was  arched  over  by  the 
branches  all  heavily  laden  with  fruit.  It  was  some  years  ago  that 
I  saw  this  charming  arcade,  and  the  sight  and  the  lesson  it  conveyed 
will  never  be  forgotten.  The  old  trees  had  probably  been  hacked 
about  for  many  years  ;  the  freedom  of  growth  which  I  saw  was 
unlikely  to  have  been  an  outcome  of  reasoning,  of  scientific  acumen, 
of  set  plan  or  purpose  of  any  sort.  The  trees  had  most  likely  been 
left  to  chance,  which  for  once  had  proved  the  best  thing  possible  for 
them. 
Another  very  important  part  of  winter  pruning  is  that  of  quite 
young  trees.  Whatever  may  be  the  form  to  be  imparted,  whatever 
may  be  the  stock  on  which  they  are  grafted,  do  not  be  too  eager  for 
fruit.  I  he  man  whose  boast  it  is  that  his  trees  bore  so  many  dozens 
of  fruit  the  first  season  is  proclaiming  his  mistake.  Of  all  things  I 
should  like  in  his  interest,  or,  better  still,  in  the  common  interest,  to 
prevent  a  recurrence  of  such  folly.  When  we  plant  a  fruit  tree  we 
have  first  of  ail  to  strive  for  a  vigorous  development  of  stem,  branch, 
and  spur.  Strong,  firm,  well  ripened  wood  is  what  we  require  and 
must  have  ;  only  get  this,  and  the  fruitful  habit  is  easily  induced  if 
it  fails  to  come  naturally. 
Now,  let  me  ask  any  readers  of  the  Journal  who  may  have  planted 
fruit  trees  last  season  to  examine  them  closely,  and  see  what  sort  of 
condition  they  are  now  in.  They  came  from  the  nursery  well 
furnished  with  robust,  healthy  growth;  have  they  made  growth  of 
similar  vigour  Bince  they  were  planted,  or  do  they  now  present  a 
comparatively  starved  and  stunted  appearance  ?  If  the  latter, 
something  is  wrong  ;  what  it  is  one  can  only  suggest,  as  it  is  impossible 
to  be  positive  without  actual  inspection,  if  the  trees  were  not  pruned 
when  planted  the  first  year  is  usually  lost;  if  they  have  been  suffered 
to  bear  fruit  they  are  now  probably  so  much  weakened  that  any  fresh 
growth  has  an  attenuated  appearance.  Cordons  may  have  a  number 
of  lateral  growth  2  or  3  inches  long,  each  6hoot  tipped  with  a  blossom 
bud.  Such  shoots  must  be  shoitened,  and  nothing  should  induce  one 
to  leave  them  for  the  chance  o,f  fruit.  Spur  formation  must  begin  at 
once ;  fruit  the  first  two  years  is  altogether  a  secondary  consideration. 
I  was  requested  some  time  back  to  inspect  a  garden  wherein  the 
fruit  trees  had  become  practically  bairen.  Tne  situation  was 
admirable — a  sunny  southern  slope  in  a  southern  county ;  the  soil 
was  shallow,  upon  a  substratum  of  sand.  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees 
on  one  wall,  though  starved,  were  sufficiently  healthy  to  justify  my 
advice  to  shorten  all  main  branches  to  within  about  3  feet  at  the  base, 
to  prune  out  any  weakly  growth  remaining  after  that  had  been  done, 
and  to  give  the  roots  qu  te  2  feet  in  depth  of  fresh,  sweet,  rich  loam, 
removing  as  much  of  the  shallow  exhausted  soil  as  possible  without 
damage  to  the  roots  ;  then  with  a  surface  dressing  of  manure  and 
liberal  watering  during  growth  next  season  free  robust  growth  is 
practically  a  certainty.  I  had  to  condemn  another  wall  of  trees 
outright,  and  recommended  a  selection  of  choice  cordon  Pears  as  a 
suitable  substitute  for  worn-out  Apricots  and  Figs.  The  bist  Pears 
are  entnely  worthy  of  wall  space  as  oordons.  They  soon  reach  the 
limit  of  stem  extension,  form  spurs  quickly,  and  come  early  into  fruit 
bearing,  the  fruit  beiDg  of  superior  flavour  to  that  from  trees  growing 
in  the  open. 
Very  interesting  is  this  work  of  winter  pruning  if  it  is  done  in 
the  right  way  with  judgment  and  care.  Each  kind  of  fruit  requires 
special  treatment,  each  tree  being  pruned  according  to  its  condition. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  for  example,  often  require  pruning  more 
freely  than  usual,  simply  because  they  have  so  much  weakly  growth. 
To  have  really  fine  full-sized  fruit  there  must  be  robust  growth  well 
set  with  triple  buds.  Slender  growth  with  its  single  blossom  buds 
cannot  >  ield  fine  fruit.  It  the  trees  have  much  sm -11  wood  off  with 
it ;  be  content  with  a  moderate  quantity  of  fruit  this  season,  keep  the 
soil  well  stored  with  fertility  throughout  the  period  of  growth,  and 
there  will  be  plenty  of  stout  wood  from  which  a  full  crop  may  be  had 
next  year. — L.  E. 
■ - - 
Figs  Dnder  Glass. 
The  trees  in  pots  started  in  December  are  now  advanced  in  growth, 
and  it  is  necessary  to  insure  a  compact  habit  and  good  results  in  the 
second  crop  to  pinch  out  the  points  of  the  shoots  when  they  have  made 
five  leaves.  In  order  to  insure  progressive  growth  a  steady  temperature 
of  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  65°  by  day,  advancing  to  75“  with  sun  heat, 
closing  early,  and  allowing  an  advance  to  80°  or  85°,  or  even  90°,  is 
advisable.  In  dull  weather  a  little  extra  heat  early  in  the  day  will 
allow  of  ventilation,  if  only  for  an  hour  or  two,  to  give  a  change  of 
air,  which  tends  to  solidify  the  growth.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  steady 
at  70°  to  75°,  introducing  fresh  leaves  as  required.  Red  spider  must 
be  kept  down  by  syringing,  but  always  early  in  the  afternoon,  to  allow 
the  leaves  to  become  dry  before  night.  In  dull  weather  it  is  better 
to  damp  the  paths  than  to  keep  the  plants  constantly  dripping  with 
water,  which  hinders  evaporation,  and  prevents  the  elaboration  of  the 
sap. 
The  early-forced  planted  out  trees  started  at  the  new  year  are 
growing,  and  require  a  temperature  at  night  of  55°,  and  60°  to  65°  by 
day,  with  a  rise  to  70°  and  75°  from  sun  heat.  Syringe  twice  a  day  on 
bright  days,  but  in  dull  weather  morning  syringing  with  damping  in 
the  afternoon  will  be  sufficient,  ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable 
occasions,  as  a  weakly  growth  cannot  afterwards  be  made  stout  or 
the  foliage  become  thick.  A  little  partially  decayed  lumpy  manure 
placed  on  the  border  wlil  attract  the  roots  to  the  surface  whilst  not 
depriving  the  soil  of  air,  and  water  in  a  tepid  state  should  be  given  as 
necessary,  but  avoid  over- watering  in  the  early  stages,  especially  with 
liquid  manure. 
Where  there  is  more  than  one  Fig  house  with  the  trees  planted  out 
the  second  may  be  started  at  the  beginning  of  February,  and  these  will 
give  a  first  and  second  crop  of  Figs.  The  trees  bearing  on  the  extension 
growths  produce  grand  fruits,  Negro  Largo  being  magnificent,  those 
having  borne  and  become  bare  being  cut  out  so  as  to  give  place  to 
sturdy  well  furnished  growths,  thinly  disposed,  and  kept  clean.  Bring 
the  border  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state  by  repeated  supplies,  if 
necessary,  of  tepid  water  or  liquid  manure.  Syringe  the  trees 
occasionally,  damping  the  paths  twice  a  day.  A  temperature  of  50°  at 
night  and  55°  by  day  is  sufficient  to  commence  with,  advancing  to  65° 
from  sun  heat,  ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions. — Grower. 
The  Alexandra  Palace. — Alexandra  Palace  and  park  have  at  last 
been  secured  to  the  people  for  all  time,  thanks  to  the  exertions  of  Mr. 
Burt  and  his  public-spirited  colleagues.  The  news  was  generally  made 
known  on  Friday,  but  a  formal  announcement  had  been  made  previously 
at  a  meeting  of  the  Islington  Borough  Council.  There  the  Mayor 
stated  that  the  purchase  money  had  been  paid  and  the  Palace  and 
grounds  were  the  property  of  the  people.  North  London  must  be 
congratulated  on  this  magnificent  accession  to  its  public  properties. 
