February  7,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
123 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Apricots. — The  fan. trained  trees  on  walls  should  have  attention 
forthwith,  inasmuch  as  Apricots  are  the  first  of  stone  fruits  to  flower, 
and  it  is  important  that  the  necessary  pruning,  cleansing,  and 
regulating  of  the  branches  should  be  completed  previously  to  the 
period  when  the  blooms  expand.  Exhausted  and  weak  branches  ought 
to  be  dispensed  with,  and  their  place  taken  with  healthy  wood.  In  the 
case  of  young  trees,  branches  of  medium  strength  are  better  than  those 
which  are  very  vigorous.  Dispose  the  main  branches  as  far  as  possible 
to  cover  equally  the  space  available.  Then  nail  in  the  secondary  ones, 
and  finally  secure  about  4  inches  to  6  inches  apart  the  previous  year’s 
shoots,  which  will  constitute  the  present  season’s  fruiting  wood.  Where 
necessary  to  shorten  these  shoots,  this  should  be  done  to  a  triple  bud, 
so  as  to  insure  wood  growth. 
In  pruning  the  Apricot  it  is  necessary  to  look  out  for  natural  spurs 
existing  on  the  branches,  and  to  retain  these  intact,  for  they  will 
produce  flowers  and  eventually  fruit.  Where  young  shoots  are  not  well 
placed  cut  them  out  entirely,  but  surplus  growths  pruned  to  prevent 
crowding  may,  instead  of  being  removed  entirely,  be  shortened  to 
within  three  buds  with  a  view  to  their  forming  artificial  spurs. 
Judgment  must  be  exercised  not  to  retain  too  many  of  these,  but  it 
may  be  useful  to  fill  up  vacant  positions  profitably  by  originating  them, 
and  supplementing  the  means  of  fruit  production. 
It  is  important  to  cleanse  the  branches  and  shoots  with  some 
effective  insecticide  if  insects  attacked  the  trees  last  season.  A 
solution  of  3  ozs.  of  soft  soap  to  a  gallon  of  water,  adding  a  wine- 
glassful  of  petroleum,  and  thickening  the  mixture  to  the  consistency 
of  thin  paint  with  a  little  soot,  clay,  and  sulphur,  is  a  reliable  appli¬ 
cation.  Apply  the  mixture  with  a  brush — a  soft  painter’s  brush — 
working  from  the  base  upwards  on  young  shoots  so  as  to  prevent 
dislocation  of  the  buds.  The  bare  old  wood  of  the  stems  and  branches 
ought  to  be  well  covered,  especially  at  the  junctions  where  red  spider 
finds  a  lodgment. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — These  are  the  next  to  be  dealt  with. 
Remove  the  supeifluous  branches  whether  weak,  exhausted,  or  dead 
wood,  leaving  the  cuts  or  wounds  carefully  smoothed.  Immature 
wood  ought  also  to  be  cut  away,  and  a  general  thinning  out  of 
undesirable  growths  effected.  As  a  rule  it  is  best  to  remove  the 
branches  entirely  from  the  wall  and  redispose  them  after  complete 
pruning  and  thorough  cleansing.  If  plenty  of  young  growth  is  avail¬ 
able  for  training  in,  this  is  preferable  to  forming  artificial  spurs,  but 
natural  spurs  may  be  encouraged.  Young  growth  is  usually  plentifully 
produced,  but  not  always  equally  over  the  trees,  hence  in  the  annual 
overhauling  and  fresh  disposal  of  the  growth  an  opportunity  is  afforded 
of  furnishing  the  base  or  lower  parts  to  better  advantage.  This  is  a 
point  which  should  always  be  considered,  and  pruning  conducted  to 
that  end  as  far  as  possible  consistent  with  not  sacrificing  fruitful  parts. 
Where  the  young  wood  is  growing  rankly,  it  is  desirable  first  to 
effect  the  necessary  thinning,  selecting  the  weak,  unripe,  and  ill-placed 
shoots  for  removal.  The  latter  are  those  which  cannot  conveniently  be 
properly  laid  in  for  permanently  retaining.  The  best  growths  are  .of 
medium  strength,  and  which  have  become  well  ripened.  They  are 
generally  freely  furnished  with  bloom  buds,  but  should  also  have  wood 
buds.  Many  of  them  have  triple  buds,  that  is  a  wood  bud  situated 
between  two  fruit  buds,  and  where  a  shoot  is  shortened  at  all  it  ought 
to  be  pruned  to  a  triple  bud.  When  left  at  full  length  the  leading 
bud  ought  to  be  a  wood  bud.  The  difference  between  wood  and 
fruit  buds  is  most  marked.  The  former  are  thin  and  pointed,  the  latter 
round  at.d  plump,  as  they  contain  the  rudiments  of  the  parts  of  the 
flower.  Wood  buds  remain  comparatively  dormant  for  some  time  yet, 
while  the  fruit  or  blrssom  buds  are  already  commencing  to  develop. 
They  are  fiequently  unduly  hastened  into  premature  development  by 
the  warmth  of  walls  and  warm,  sunny  days.  As  a  rule  the  later  the 
trees  flower  the  surer  the  crop,  but  it  almost  always  depends  mainly  on 
the  state  of  weather  at  the  time  the  bloom  expands. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  are  subject  to  red  spider  in  summer,  and 
few  trees  escape  attack,  hence  it  is  advisable  at  this  season,  before 
active  growth  recommences,  to  dress  the  trees  with  a  solution  which 
will  destroy  the  pest.  Syringe  with  a  softsoap  and  sulphur  solution  may 
be  quite  effectual  in  mild  attacks,  but  the  safer  plan  is  to  brush  over 
the  trees  with  a  solution  similarly  prepared  to  that  recommended  for 
Apricots.  When  the  branches  or  shoots  are  attacked  with  scale  insects 
dislodge  them  with  a  pointed  stick  and  brush  the  infested  parts  with 
methylated  spirits  of  wine. 
In  re-securing  the  trees  to  the  wall  dispose  the  main  and  secondary 
branches  so  as  to  admit  of  the  young  growths  being  laid  in  several 
inches  apart  in  a  regular,  systematic  manner,  and  to  permit  of  the 
leaves  when  developed  having  abundant  room  for  their  full  expansion 
and  exposure  to  light.  If  preferred  painting  the  shoots  with  an 
insecticide  may  be  carried  out  after  the  training  is  completed.  As  a 
complete  finish  remove  the  surface  soil  from  the  roots,  replacing  it 
with  a^loamy  mixture  containing  pulverised  lime  scraps,  making  it  firm. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — Of  all  fruit  trees  the  Cherry  is  most  impatient  of 
undue  warmth  in  the  early  stages  of  growth,  particularly  when  the 
ventilation  is  indifferently  provided.  This  is  a  vital  point  as  regards 
crop,  therefore  commence  ventilating  at  50°,  allowing  an  increase  to  65° 
from  sun  heat  with  proportionate  ventilation,  closing  the  house  at  50°, 
45°  being  sufficiently  high  by  day  from  fire  heat,  and  40°  at  night.  The 
trees  advanced  slowly  from  December  are  now  unfolding  their  buds, 
those  previously  forced  being  in  blossom,  and  will  need  attention  in 
fertilising  the  flowers  on  fine  days.  Where  the  flowers  are  not  expanded 
it  is  advisable  to  fumigate  the  house,  so  as  to  make  sure  that  the  trees 
are  free  from  aphides,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a  day  or  two. 
Examine  the  border  to  see  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture, 
affording  a  thorough  supply  of  water  when  necessary.  Trees  in  pots 
will  require  more  frequent  attention.  Ea'ly  Rivers,  Governor  Wood, 
Black  Tartarian,  and  Elton  are  excellent  varieties. 
Cucumbers. — Young  plants  raised  from  seeds  at  the  beginning  of  the 
year  are  now  ready  for  transference  to  the  hillocks  in  the  Cucumber 
house.  Press  the  soil  firmly  about  each  plant,  place  a  stick  to  each,  and 
secure  it  to  the  lowest  wire  of  the  trellis.  If  bright  sunshine  occur, 
shade  lightly  in  the  middle  of  the  day  to  prevent  flagging,  and  after  the 
plants  become  established  it  can  be  discontinued.  KeeD  the  night 
temperature  at  65°,  60°  on  cold,  and  70°  on  mild  nights ;  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  with  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  with 
plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture  on  fine  days,  the  temperature  being 
from  90°  to  100°,  so  as  to  secure  a  good  day’s  work.  Plants  in  bearing 
will  need  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state,  or  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  fertiliser  may  be  applied,  washing  in  moderately.  Crop 
lightly,  and  keep  the  plants  clean.  Avoid  overwatering.  Keep  the 
foliage  thin,  remove  bad  leaves  and  exhausted  growths,  stopping  others 
one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit  as  space  allows,  maintaining  a 
succession  of  young  growths  for  bearing.  Cover  the  lights  of  manure- 
heated  frames  with  double  mats  at  night,  the  linings  of  the  beds  being 
attended  to  weekly  or  fortnightly,  according  to  the  weather. 
Melons.— A  rather  brisk  bottom  heat  is  advisable  in  the  cultivation 
of  early  fruit,  and  it  should  be  constant.  In  houses  and  pits  with 
pathways  hot-water  pipes  are  unquestionably  the  best,  but  for  ordinary 
pits  and  frames  fermenting  materials  are  reliable  and  afford  good 
results.  In  making  hotbeds  select  a  dry  position,  or  employ  a  layer  of 
faggots  for  the  foundation,  taking  care  to  make  the  bed  large  enough 
for  the  season  ;  4  feet  6  inches  at  back,  and  4  feet  in  front,  with  the 
material  well  beaten  down,  will  not  be  too  high.  Place  the  frame  on 
the  bed,  and  in  four  days  or  so  level  the  bed  if  necessary  by  adding  the 
requisite  sweetened  material,  and  place  on  the  centre  of  each  light  a 
barrowload  of  soil  in  the  form  of  a  flattened  cone,  the  top  about  1  foot 
from  the  glass.  When  the  heat  does  not  exceed  85°  to  90°  in  the 
hillocks,  place  a  plant  in  the  centre  of  each,  pressing  the  soil  firmly 
about  the  ball,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the  stem,  and  a  little  dry  soot 
drawn  in  a  ring  round  each  plant  will  protect  it  from  slugs.  The 
day  temperature  should  be  70°,  increasing  to  80°  up  to  90°  from  sun 
heat,  losing  no  opportunity  of  admitting  a  little  air  to  allow  of  the 
escape  of  rank  vapour  or  accumulated  moisture,  but  in  no  case  must 
air  be  admitted  to  lower  the  temperature  below  75°.  The  night 
temperature  should  be  60°  to  65°,  or  70°  in  mild  weather.  Instead  of 
planting  out  too  soon  in  houses  transfer  to  larger  pots  as  required, 
securing  the  stems  to  small  stakes,  and  rubbing  off  the  laterals  to  the 
height  of  the  bottom  wire  of  the  trellis. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — Any  varieties  still  in 
flower  should  have  the  bloss'  ms  brushed  over  daily  with  a  feather, 
though  shaking  the  trellis  answers  in  many  cases,  especially  when  the 
house  is  kept  rather  dry.  When  the  flowers  fade  a  moderate  syringing 
with  water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house  will  assist  in  bringing 
off  the  remains  of  the  petals.  Undue  haste  in  the  forcing  must  be 
avoided,  for  success  depends  upon  steady  progress.  Disbud  cautiously, 
commencing  with  the  foreright  shoots  first,  following  from  the  upper 
and  upright  parts  of  the  tree  downwards  to  the  horizontal  branches  at 
the  base.  Shorten  any  bearing  growths  left  full  length  in  pruning  to  a 
growing  bud  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fiuit.  Fumigafe  on  the  first 
appearance  of  aphides,  but  not  whilst  the  trees  are  in  flower,  and  be 
careful  not  to  give  too  much,  as  the  foliage  and  fruit  are  very 
susceptible  of  injury.  Keep  the  surfaces  near  the  hot-water  pipes 
moistened  as  they  become  dry,  and  supply  water  or  liquid  manure  to 
the  border  as  required.  A  few  sweetened  horse  droppings,  or  cow 
manure  after  being  “caked”  and  broken  up  into  roughish  pieces,  may 
be  occasionally  sprinkled  on  the  border.  Maintain  a  day  temperature 
of  551-  from  fire  heat,  50°  at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day,  with  a  little 
ventilation  and  gleams  of  sun,  ventilating  fully  above  65°,  being  careful 
to  avoid  cold  currents,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  raise  the 
temperature  to  75°  from  sun  heat. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  the  flowers 
expanded,  and  will  need  moderate  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing 
the  trees  being  discontinued,  but  damping  the  paths  aud  borders 
occasionally  to  secure  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  Trees 
