144 
February  14,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
I - i - , - : - > - ; - : - > - 1 - i - • - 
-the  warmth,  and  start  into  growth  towards  the  close  of  March  or  early  in 
April  when  kept  cool,  fire  heat  being  used  to  just  exclude  frost.  If  the 
Vines  are  of  the  early  and  midseason  varieties  they  ripen  in  late  August 
or  during  September  with  little  assistance  from  fire  heat,  and  are  the 
cheapest  grown,  but  the  produce  comes  on  at  a  time  when  other  fruits 
are  plentiful  and  the  supplies  of  Grapes  from  home  and  abroad  are 
abundant,  hence  the  prices  rule  low.  It  is  an  excellent  method, 
however,  of  securing  Grapes  for  home  use  in  the  late  summer  and 
autumn  months.  The  house  must  be  kept  cool,  ventilating  fully  on  all 
favourable  occasions,  and  only  using  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost,  even 
where  there  are  plants,  for  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the  Vines  dormant 
until  April,  and  then  give  such  assistance  from  fire  heat  as  the 
prevalence  of  spring  frosts  necessitate.  Thus  the  Vines  will  have  the 
summer  to  make  their  growth  and  perfect  the  fruit  in. 
Late  Houses. — Thick-skinned  Grapes  and  late  varieties  require  a 
long  time  to  grow  and  perfect  the  fruit  satisfactorily  for  keeping. 
Assuming  that  the  Vines  are  cleared  of  the  Grapes  early  in  January, 
and  the  borders  have  been  top-dressed  with  fresh  loam  and  an 
approved  fertiliser,  a  good  supply  of  water  should  be  given  and  a  fresh 
start  made  without  much  further  delay,  so  that  the  Grapes  may  be 
thoroughly  ripened  by  the  middle  of  September.  Keep  any  strong  rods 
in  a  horizontal  position  or  lower,  and  secure  an  even  break  by  syringing 
two  or  three  times  a  day.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  503  to  55°  at 
night  and  on  dull  days  until  the  buds  move,  then  allow  5°  to  10°  more 
by  day  and  an  advance  of  10°  from  sun  heat,  losing  no  opportunity  of 
ventilating  freely. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
Seakale. — This  delicious  vegetable  may  be  secured  in  quantity  now 
if  strong  roots  are  packed  closely  together  with  soil  between  them  in  a 
suitably  warm  place,  where  the  crowns  can  be  covered  from  light.  All 
the  thong-like  roots  may  be  cut  away  when  the  crowns  are  lifted,  and 
the  best  of  these  preserved  for  future  planting,  preparing  them  of  the 
length  of  6  incbeB,  and  cutting  the  top  transversely  and  the  base 
slantingly.  Lay  them  in  sand  or  soil  in  a  cool  place  until  time  to  plant. 
In  forcing  Seakale  in  quantity  a  bed  in  a  warm  structure  should  be 
formed,  and  the  roots  planted  therein.  Keep  the  soil  moist  and  the 
temperature  about  60°,  adopting  some  means  of  excluding  light,  so  that 
the  produce  may  be  perfectly  blanched.  The  proper  number  of  roots 
for  forming  a  successional  supply  may  be  introduced  every  ten  days  or 
fortnight.  Pots  or  boxes  are  good  mediums  for  holding  soil  and  roots, 
but  other  receptacles  may  be  inverted  over  them  so  as  to  blanch  the 
growth  as  it  advances. 
Rhubarb. — Rhubarb  roots  force  readily  now  in  a  temperature  of  55° 
to  60°.  It  is  immaterial  whether  the  crowns  are  covered  or  not  to 
-exclude  light,  but  usually  the  best  coloured  stalks  are  obtained  in  semi¬ 
darkness,  hence  it  is  desirable  to  invert  some  receptacle  over  them 
during  growth,  which  not  only  partially  blanches  but  lengthens  the 
stalks.  In  a  moist  temperature,  too,  surrounding  the  roots  with  soil  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  but  attention  should  be  given  to  afford  due 
-supplies  of  water. 
Roots  in  the  open  ground  may  also  be  forced  by  fermenting  manure 
and  leaves.  First  cover  the  crowns  with  pots  or  boxes  having  movable 
tops  or  lids,  then  pack  closely  round  with  stable  manure  and  leaves 
in  equal  proportions,  and  cover  over  the  pots  or  boxes  to  the  depth 
of  a  foot.  Examine  the  crowns  occasionally  to  see  how  growth  is 
progressing,  accelerating  or  retarding  it  by  adding  or  removing 
fermenting  material. 
Forcing  French  Beans. — In  a  temperature  of  65°  to  75°  dwarf 
French  Beans  may  be  grown  readily.  Fill  8-inch  pots  with  a  rich 
mixture  of  loam  and  manure,  or  rather  fill  them  three  parts  full.  Sow 
eight  Beans  in  each  pot,  accelerating  germination  by  standing  them  near 
hot-water  pipes  ;  but  when  growth  appears  plenty  of  light  is  essential, 
as  well  as  a  brisk  heat.  When  the  plants  are  growing  freely  and  filling 
the  pot 8  with  roots  give  a  top-dressing  of  soil,  leaving  room,  however, 
for  liberal  supplies  of  water  and  liquid  manure  when  the  fruits  form. 
Twiggy  sticks  should  be  fixed  round  to  support  the  growth.  With 
regular  and  frequent  attention  to  their  wants  they  will  give  profitable 
supplies.  Sow  a  number  of  pots  successionally. 
Peas. — Several  rows  of  early  and  second  early  varieties  should  be 
sown  now  on  well-prepared  rich  ground.  Chelsea  Gem,  American 
Wonder,  William  I.,  Stratagem,  Duke  of  Albany,  Prince  of  Wales,  and 
Telephone  are  good  varieties.  The  rows  of  dwarf  growers  may  be 
2  to  3  feet  asunder,  while  those  of  taller  growth  may  be  4  to  6  feet  apart. 
Do  not  waste  seed  in  sowing  thickly,  but  protect  from  the  depredations 
of  birds,  which  not  only  nip  off  the  tops  of  shoots  as  soon  as  germination 
commences,  but  search  the  soil  for  the  seed  immediately  after  sowing. 
The  seed  may  be  protected  at  the  latter  stage  by  damping  and  rolling  in 
red  lead.  To  protect  the  seedlings  after  germination  use  wire  protectors 
over  the  rows  or  Btrands  of  black  cotton  immediately  over  the  plants. 
Successional  rows  should  be  sown  fortnightly. 
Broad  Beans. — The  white-seeded  varieties  of  Longpod  Beans  are 
valuable  for  early  crops,  following  with  a  successional  crop  of  Windsor 
varieties.  Place  the  seed  2  inches  deep  in  wide  drills,  forming  with 
them  a  double  row.  These  double  rows  may  be  3  feet  apart. 
Onions. — Sow  Onion  seed  outdoors  when  the  weather  is  favourable 
and  the  surface  soil  dry,  so  that  the  ground  may  be  made  firm.  Draw 
drills  a  foot  apart  and  half  anjinch  deep.  Sow  the  seed  thinly,  cover, 
.and  make  the  surface  firm. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  reqiv  sted  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Painting  Hot-water  Pipes  ( W .  H.). — An  excellent  mixture  for 
painting  hot-water  pipes  is  damp  black  and  boiled  linseed  oil.  If  mixed 
thin  you  can  apply  it  with  a  brush.  A  much  quicker  process  is  to  take 
a  piece  of  old  canvas,  as  much  as  a  man  can  conveniently  hold  in  his 
hand,  and  dip  it  into  the  paint  and  rub  it  well  into  the  pipes.  This 
is  rather  a  dirty  plan,  and  some  might  object  to  it  on  that  account;  but 
the  work  can  be  done  quite  as  well  as  with  a  brush  ;  besides,  the  under 
sides  of  the  pipes  cannot  always  be  reached  with  a  brush. 
Eucharis  grandiflora  (Novice). — Your  plants  are  infested  with  the 
“  mite  ”  that  attacks  these  plants  and  which  has  ruined  large  numbers 
throughout  the  country.  Insecticides  are  sold,  which  will  destroy  these 
pests,  others  have  advised  the  use  of  lime  water  as  a  remedy ;  but  many 
have  failed  to  eradicate  the  “  mite  ”  and  restore  the  plants  agaiu  to 
health  and  vigour  by  any  of  these  methods.  If  you  have  in  potting 
selected  only  the  largest  bulbs,  throwing  the  smaller  ones  away,  as  is 
frequently  done,  we  advise  you  to  keep  the  small  ones,  thoroughly  wash 
them  and  their  roots  in  a  weak  solution  of  Fir  tree  oil  or  other  insecti¬ 
cide,  and  then  pot  them.  They  may  grow  vigorously,  and  do  well  for 
some  years.  When  they  are  once  infested  it  is  very  difficult  to  clean 
them. 
Treating  Fish  and  Poultry  Offal  for  Storing  (F.  Smith). — The  best 
process  is  to  dry  the  offal,  then  grind  it,  and  afterwards  mix  with  it  a 
good  percentage  of  kainit,  a  fourth  of  the  quantity  of  ground  refuse 
being  sometimes  employed  or  even  more,  which  not  only  makes  the 
manure  keep  for  a  longer  period,  but  is  a  valuable  addition  to  it,  on 
account  of  the  potash  and  magnesia  the  kainit  contains.  Another  plan 
is  to  use  sulphate  of  lime,  about  as  much  as  of  ground  refuse,  and  thus 
prevent  the  escape  of  ammonia.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  use 
quicklime  with  the  cffal,  mixing  well  and  covering  the  heap  with  a  foot 
depth  of  earth.  About  5  per  cent,  of  dry,  freshly  slaked  lime  should 
be  used,  and  the  mixture  may,  where  it  is  inconvenient  to  employ  earth, 
be  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  lime.  This  mixture,  when  dry,  can  be 
kept  without  any  appreciable  change  for  a  long  time,  though  of  course 
the  offal  will  be  reduced.  Blood  may  be  treated  in  a  similar  manner, 
and  then  forms  an  excellent  fertiliser. 
Service  in  Public  Parks  ( J .  S.  B.). — We  are  afraid  your  question  is 
too  vague  to  permit  of  our  giving  a  reply  that  will  be  of  material  value 
to  you.  You  do  not  say  whether  you  wish  to  come  to  London  or 
whether  you  aspire  to  the  position  of  superintendent,  or  would  be 
content  to  start  at  the  foot  of  the  ladder  and  work  your  way  up.  For 
the  provincial  cities  and  towns  application  is  usually  made  to  the  Town 
Clerk,  but  beyond  the  figures  we  have  seen  advertised  we  have  no 
knowledge  of  the  salaries  that  are  paid  ;  we  know,  however,  that  they 
vary  considerably.  For  the  London  parks  application  must  be  made  to 
the  Chief  Officer,  Parks  Department,  London  County  Council,  11,  Regent  s 
Street,  S  W.,  but  we  do  not  think  you  could  get  a  start  here  above  the 
rank  of  foreman,  even  if  you  got  that,  as  the  department  is  now 
admirably  manned.  The  wages  of  a  gardener  commence  at  27s.  per 
week,  while  the  superintendent  of  a  first-elass  park  rises  to  £225  per 
annum,  with  free  house,  annual  leave,  and  one  or  two  allowances.  If 
you  wish  further  information  write  again  ;  we  shall  be  glad  to  assist  you. 
Houses  Infested  with  Eelworm  (A  Constant  Reader). — A  grower  of 
Cucumbers,  Grapes,  and  Tomatoes  exclusively  in  houses  covering  an 
area  of  about  35  acres,  disinfects  the  Cucumber  and  Tomato  houses, 
where  the  first  are  grown  in  troughs  about  3  feet  wide  aud  6  inches 
deep,  kept  clear  of  the  floor  by  cross  battens,  and  the  latter  are  grown 
in  pots,  with  sulphuric  acid,  a  solution  of  about  5  per  cent.,  or  five  parts 
“  oil  of  vitriol”  to  100  parts  water.  After  all  he  has  eelworm,  and  it  is 
introduced  in  the  soil,  so  that  the  disinfection  is  practically  of  little 
value,  as  the  eelworms,  even  the  dreaded  Heterodera  radicicola,  wriggle 
themselves  out  of  harm’s  way,  and  descending  deeper  than  the  solution 
penetrates,  are  still  present  to  return  and  feed  and  breed  on  the 
Cucumbers  and  Tomatoes,  as  the  case  may  be,  after  the  acid  has  been 
neutralised.  Mr.  Dyke  used  a  coating  of  limewash  with  good  eff-ct  all 
over  tbe  floor,  or  at  least  beds,  where  the  plants  had  to  be  grown.  Of 
course  boiling  water  is  a  complete  annihilator  of  the  pest ;  the 
difficulty,  however,  as  with  acid,  is  to  reach  all  the  pests.  Carbolic 
acid,  1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  has  also  been  used,  but  this  sterilises 
the  soil  for  a  considerable  time,  aud  also  gives  off  vapour  very  in  j  uri  us 
to  vegetation,  especially  under  the  close  system  of  cuLivatiou.  We 
advise  the  boiling  water  method  of  disinfection,  and  the  free  use  of 
lime  on  the  floor  or  surface  of  the  soil. 
