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February  21,  1901.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Spring  Planting. — Though  autumn  is  the  best  period  for  planting 
all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  and  bushes,  yet  the  work  can  be  carried  out  in 
early  ppring  or  just  before  the  buds  begin  to  push.  The  time  most 
suitable  may  be  considered  as  extending  from  the  middle  of  February 
to  the  end  of  March.  During  this  period  the  soil  in  which  the  trees 
must  be  planted  has  bad  the  opportunity  of  becoming  dry  and  workable 
on  the  surface,  without  becoming  pasty  and  adhering  to  boots  and  tools. 
This  state  of  the  soil  is  an  essential  condition  for  the  well-being  of 
the  fruit  trees,  and  every  endeavour  must  be  made  to  plant  the  trees 
and  bushes  only  when  the  soil  is  in  the  condition  described. 
The  preparation  of  the  soil  ought,  if  possible,  to  be  carried  out 
previously,  so  that  there  may  be  no  delay  at  the  proper  moment. 
Should  the  ground  require  to  be  prepared  it  ought  to  be  dug  or 
trenched  forthwith.  Deep  cultivation  is  always  demanded  by  all 
classes  of  soil.  Clayey  and  adhesive  soil  is  rendered  more  porous  and 
better  drained,  hence  warmer,  by  deep  cultivation,  while  light  and 
sandy  soils  can  only  be  best  adapted  for  fruit  growing  by  breaking  up 
the  subsoil  to  a  fair  depth.  Soil  that  has  not  hitherto  been  deeply  dug 
or  trenched  may  have  a  fertile  top  spit,  but  a  hungry  subsoil.  By  no 
means  must  the  latter  be  brought  to  the  surface.  The  best  method  of 
deepening  the  soil  while  still  retaining  the  spits  in  their  original 
position  is  to  bastard-trench  the  ground.  Manuring  ground  which  is 
in  preparation  for  fruit  tree  planting  is  not  essential,  except  for  bush 
fruit  and  Strawberries.  Rich  soil  is  apt  to  cause  excessive  growth  in 
Apples,  Pears,  and  stone  fruits.  Light  soil  should  be  firmed  before 
planting. 
Trees  and  bushes  on  coming  to  hand  for  spring  planting  should 
be  carefully  laid-in  in  moist  soil  until  the  actual  time  of  planting. 
The  reason  of  this  is  the  absolute  necessity  of  preserving  the  roots  from 
drying,  which  of  course  they  soon  will  do  if  exposed  to  the  atmosphere, 
and  cold,  cu'ting  winds.  Insert  the  trees  in  wide,  shallow  holes,  and 
prune  the  ends  of  the  roots  smoothly,  spreading  out  the  roots  to  their 
full  extent.  Scatter  a  fine  mixture  of  loam  and  wood  ashes  over  them 
from  the  stem  outwards.  Avoid  covering  them  more  than  a  few  inches 
deep.  Place  a  stout  stake  to  each  tree  that  requires  support,  at  the 
same  time  securing  the  trees  firmly.  Place  a  mulch  of  short  manure 
over  the  roots. 
Pruning  Gooseberries. — Signs  of  activity  will  soon  be  apparent  in  the 
buds  of  Gooseberries,  and  pruning  delayed  until  the  present  time  ought 
to  be  carried  out.  Bushes  in  the  open  may  have  the  branches  and 
shoots  thinned,  leaving  the  trees  as  symmetrical  in  shape  as  possible, 
and  not  crowded  with  shoots.  The  centres  of  bushes  require  free 
removal  of  growths,  while  those  at  the  base  of  the  trees  aud  touching 
or  descending  to  the  ground  may  be  cut  away.  In  thinning  out  crowded 
young  growths,  some  of  those  for  removal,  instead  of  outting  them  out 
entirely,  may  be  shortened  to  form  spurs.  Gooseberries  on  walls  or 
trellises  may  be  pruned  in  a  more  formal  manner.  Main  shoots  9  or 
10  inches  apart  should  be  originated  at  the  first  and  encouraged  to 
extend  until  the  space  available  is  filled.  The  side  shoots  emanating 
from  these  each  season  must  in  summer  be  shortened  to  three  pairs  of 
leaves,  and  in  winter,  earlier,  or  at  the  present  time,  be  further  shortened 
to  within  an  inch. 
Pruning  Currants. — Bush  Red  and  White  Currants,  and  as  cordons 
on  walls  and  trellises,  must  now  have  the  pruning  completed.  The 
same  system  of  pruning  does  for  both.  This  consists  of  originating  for 
each  bush  or  cordon  a  limited  number  of  branches.  Spur  in  the  side 
shoots  to  within  an  inch  at  the  winter  pruning,  and  shorten  the  leading 
shoots  to  9  inches.  In  old  bushes  some  of  the  exhausted  branches  must 
be  annually  removed,  and  growths  from  the  base  encouraged  to  take 
their  place.  If  the  bushes  are  so  far  worn  out  as  not  to  produce 
suitable  shoots,  it  will  be  better  to  destroy  them  and  plant  fresh  young 
specimens,  which,  owing  to  their  vigorous  character,  will  soon  develop 
into  a  fruitful  and  profitable  condition. 
Black  Currants  require  different  treatment.  These  fruits  should 
only  be  grown  as  free  bushes  with  or  without  short  stems.  Each  season 
cut  out  the  oldest  branches  and  encourage  abundance  of  new  wood,  not, 
however,  to  the  extent  of  crowding.  The  shoots  retained  may  be  left 
full  length. 
Raspberry  Treatment.  — Ths  old  fruiting  stems  of  Raspberries  must 
be  cut  out  close  to  the  soil,  and  a  selection  of  the  best  young  canes 
retained,  four  to  six  to  each  stool  is  sufficient,  or  a  foot  apart  if  in 
lines.  Shorten  them  to  the  tops  of  stakes  or  trellis.  Mulch  the  soil 
liberally  over  the  roots  with  rich  manure.  Newly  planted  Raspberry 
canes  must  be  cut  down  to  within  9  inches  of  the  ground. 
Heading  Down  Trees  for  Grafting. — Trees  intended  to  be  grafted 
with  fresh  varieties  should  now  have  the  stems  headed  down  to  near 
the  point  where  the  grafts  are  to  be  inserted.  In  doing  this  care  must 
be  given  to  avoid  splitting  or  injuring  the  bark. 
Thinning  Fruit  Trees. — Standard  fruit  treeB  still  containing  crowded 
branches  should  have  them  well  thinned  out,  especially  in  the  centre  and 
where  they  cross  and  interlace.  Those  branches  that  are  taken  out 
remove  entirely,  and  do  not  leave  any  half  shortened,  as  this  will 
produce  a  greater  thicket  of  wood  than  ever. 
Applying  Liquid  Manure.  — Soaking  the  soil  at  this  season  with 
liquid  manure,  extending  the  operation  as  far  as  the  roots  spread,  is 
extremely  beneficial  to  the  roots  of  old  established  trees.  It  is  not 
advisable  to  apply  it  to  young  or  vigorous  trees. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — If  the  temperature  is  maintained  at  40°  to  45°  at 
night,  and  about  50°  in  the  daytime,  the  trees  rapidly  unfoid  the  buds 
when  the  weather  is  mild,  and  slowly  but  surely  during  cold  weather 
such  as  it  has  been  recently.  Before  the  flowers  expand  it  is 
desirable  to  fumigate  the  house,  as  aphides  are  very  partial  to  the 
tender  growths  of  Cherry  trees,  and  are  almost  certain  to  be  present, 
or  by  syringing  the  trees  with  an  approved  insecticide.  Though  a 
Cherry  house,  especially  for  early  forcing,  may  only  be  found  here  and 
there  throughout  the  country,  no  structure  affords  more  acceptable 
fruit  for  dessert  in  the  late  spring  or  eaily  summer  months. 
Cucumbers. — In  order  to  maintain  steady  progress  the  plants  require 
a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  5°  less  in  severe  weather,  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  rising  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  so 
as  to  run  up  or  maintain  a  temperature  of  90°,  95°,  or  100°.  Examine 
the  plants  in  bearing  once  a  week  for  the  removal  of  bad  leaves  and 
exhausted  growths,  thinning  the  young  shoots  to  prevent  crowding,  and 
cutting  out  old  growths  to  allow  of  the  training  in  of  young.  Stop  two 
joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  removing  old  and  deformed  fruits,  as 
they  do  nothing  but  impoverish  the  plant.  In  securing  the  young 
shoots  to  the  trellis  do  not  tie  them  too  tightly,  but  allow  room  for 
development.  Plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  some  time  should  have 
the  surface  soil  removed,  and  previously  warmed  fresh  soil  added. 
Damp  the  pathways  on  bright  mornings  and  early  in  the  afternoon, 
keeping  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  with  liquid  manure. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Houses. — The  recent  weather  has 
not  been  favourable,  yet  the  trees  and  crops  look  well.  A  night 
temperature  of  50°  to  55°  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  being  secured,  with 
5°  to  10°  advance  from  sun,  and  accompanied  with  judicious  ventilation, 
which  Peaches  and  Nectarines  delight  in,  satisfactory  progress  has  been 
made.  When  the  growth  is  strong  the  whole  of  the  foreright  shoots 
may  be  taken  off  at  once,  and  some  of  the  side  shoots  pinched  back 
to  form  spurs,  but  not  on  wood  that  will  be  removed  after  the  fruit  is 
gathered,  retaining  the  best  breaks  from  the  base  of  the  shoots  now 
bearing.  Trees  that  have  set  good  crops  of  fruit  should  have  the  least 
promising  removed  where  too  abundant,  especially  those  badly  placed, 
and  to  help  weakly  trees  apply  liquid  manure  when  moisture  is  required 
at  the  roots.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  with 
water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house,  and  always  sufficiently 
early  to  allow  the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night.  On  dull  days 
omit  the  afternoon  syringing,  also  the  morning  when  cold  and  sunless, 
damping  the  paths  and  border  instead,  ventilate  from  60°,  increasing 
with  the  sun  heat. 
Second  Early  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  set,  or 
nearly  so,  the  fruit,  and  need  to  be  syringed  carefully  after  that  is 
effected,  so  as  to  better  enable  them  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the 
blossom.  A  night  temperature  of  50°  is  safe  in  severe  weather  and  55° 
by  day,  5°  more  in  mild  weather,  with  10°  to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat. 
Ventilation  should  be  increased  (a  little  being  lefc  on  constantly)  from 
55°,  and  having  it  full  at  65°,  then  the  trees  will  form  sturdy  growths 
and  leathery  foliage  capable  of  assimilating  nutrition  for  the  current 
crop,  and  making  provision  for  a  succeeding  one.  Disbud  gradually 
and  judiciously  when  the  fruit  is  fairly  swelling,  and  when  bpgun  follow 
it  up  day  by  day.  Examine  the  inside  border,  and  if  dry  afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  water,  followed,  if  necessary,  by  liquid  nourishment. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — In  the  house  started  at  the  beginning 
of  this  month  the  trees  are  all  aglow  with  fl  >wers.  When  the  anthers 
show  clear  of  the  corollas  cease  syringing,  maintaining  a  genial  atmo¬ 
sphere  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  afternoon 
of  fine  days.  Turn  the  heat  on  in  the  morning  to  secure  and  maintain  a 
temperature  of  50°  by  day,  ventilating  from  55°,  allowing  an  advance  to 
60°  or  65°,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  employing  fire  heat  only  at 
night  to  keep  the  temperature  between  40  ‘  and  45°.  Wtiere  there  is  a 
great  show  of  blossom  remove  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots. 
Supply  water  to  the  border  if  in  need  of  moisture.  Fertilise  the 
blossoms  when  fully  expanded  and  the  pollen  is  ripe. 
Houses  to  Afford  Ripe  Fruit  in  Late  July  and  Early  August. — These 
planted  with  the  choicest  midseason  varieties  should  be  closed  early  in 
March.  When  the  blossoms  are  retarded  and  will  not  keep  from 
development  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  secure  safety  from  frost  after 
the  buds  show  colour,  syringing  occasionally  up  to  that,  then  ceasing, 
and  instead  of  allowing  the  flowers  to  perish,  as  they  certainly  will  do 
in  a  cold,  close,  moist  atmosphere,  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  by 
day,  and  with  ventilation  from  that  point  an  advance  may  be  made  from 
sun  heat  to  60°  or  65°,  employing  fire  heat  only  at  night  to  keep  the 
temperature  between  40°  and  45°.  This  will  insure  a  good  set  of  fruit. 
Where  the  blossoms  are  superabundant  remove  those  on  the  uuder  side 
or  back  of  the  shoots,  drawing  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the  growths. 
