164 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  21,  1901. 
See  that  there  are  no  aphidee,  for  cleanliness  is  all-important,  fumigating 
if  there  be  the  least  trace. 
Late  Houses. — Unheated  houses  with  the  roof-lights  fixed,  and  not 
always  provided  with  ample  ventilators,  are  the  worst  possible  in  an 
early  season,  as  the  flowering  is  early,  and  spring  frosts  with  damp 
and  cold  weather  frequently  prevail,  so  that  the  set  is  often  better  on 
walls  with  protection  than  under  glass.  With  the  roof-lights  off  the 
buds  are  dormant.  Under  fixed  roofs  ventilate  freely,  and  where 
there  is  heat  merely  exclude  frost.  Heat  is  absolutely  essential  in  cold 
districts,  as  the  blossom  is  not  safe  from  spring  frosts,  and  the  fruit 
does  not  ripen  perfectly  if  the  season  be  cold  and  sunless.  The  latest 
•varieties  cannot  be  depended  upon  to  produce  good  fruit  in  cold 
localities  without  aid  in  backward  seasons,  and  some  of  the  latest  sorts 
are  noble  in  appearance,  good  in  quality  when  the  trees  are  well 
nourished,  a  little  heat  making  a  great  difference  in  the  fruit  as  regards 
its  thorough  ripening.  Borders  that  have  been  exposed  are  thoroughly 
moistened  through  to  the  drainage;  inside  borders  under  fixed  roofs 
should  be  examined,  and  if  at  all  dry  be  well  supplied  with  water. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requ  sted  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Culture  of  Orchids  (W.  H.  R.). — You  will  find  replies  to  your 
questions  respecting  Ccelogyne  cristata  and  Stanhopea  grandiflora  on 
page  149. 
Code  of  Judging  ( T .  M.). — The  code  of  judging  is  published  by  the 
Royal  Horticultural  Society.  We  have  therefore  forwarded  your  letter 
and  stamps  to  the  secretary,  who  will  doubtless  send  the  book  in  the  \ 
course  of  a  few  days. 
Cyclamen  Leaves  Crippled  (Nemo). — The  leaves  are,  or  rather  have 
been,  infes  ed  by  the  “  rust  ”  pest,  a  minute  creature  not  unlike  a  thrips, 
but  of  the  mite  family,  and  known  as  Tarsanymus  gerani,  because  it 
attacks  Ivy-leaved  and  other  forms  of  Pelargonium,  also  Gesneras  and 
Gloxinias,  and  is  very  malignant  in  its  effects  on  the  plants  infested. 
It  is  very  difficult  to  eradicate.  The  best  treatment  is  to  act  as  you 
propose— namely,  burn  all  infested  leaves,  but  this  often  means 
completely  or  nearly  defoliating  the  plants,  hence  recourse  is  had  to 
repressive  measures,  of  which  that  you  have  adopted — the  treatment 
with  Lemon  oil  insecticide,  frequently  advertised  in  our  columns — is 
one  of  the  best,  the  solution  being  well  applied,  especially  to  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves.  This  treatment  assuredly  improves  the  plants, 
though  slowly,  and  only  needs  persevering  in  to  effect  a  clearance. 
Treatment  with  tobacco  juice  or  nicotine  liquid  is  the  usually  prescribed 
procedure,  and  is  very  effective,  as  it  not  only  destroy  s  the  pests  but  acts 
as  a  preventive. 
Pear  Twigs  Enlarged  and  Infested  with  insect  (L.  N.). — The  twigs 
are  naturally  enlarged  at  the  point  immediately  below  where  the  fruit 
has  been  produced.  No  insect  is  present,  nor  has  there  been  any,  in 
the  twigs,  but  these  are  infested  by  mussel  scale  (Mytilaspis  pomorum). 
To  destroy  this  pest  the  tree  may  be  dressed  with  a  solution  of  1  oz. 
caustic  soda  (98  per  cent,  purity),  and  1  oz.  commercial  potash  or 
pearlash  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  applying  it  at  a  temperature  of  130° 
to  135°,  preferably  by  means  of  a  spraying  apparatus,  on  a  fine  day 
when  the  bark  is  dry  and  the  weather  mild,  also  while  the  tree  is  quite 
dormant,  or  apply  with  a  clean  half-worn  painter’s  sash  brush,  being 
careful  to  reach  every  part,  and  suffice  that  bark  be  just  wetted,  yet 
completely,  withoi  t  running  down  the  twig,  branch,  or  stem  with  the 
solution.  At  the  latter  part  of  May  the  tree  should  be  syringed  with 
an  insecticide  such  as  those  advertised.  The  mulch  of  manure  is  likely 
to  do  more  good  than  the  paving  with  flints,  and  we  also  advise  a 
top-dressing  now  of  the  following  mixture  Superphosphate  of  lime, 
nine  parts  ;  powdered  saltpetre,  five  parts  ;  nitrate  of  soda,  seven 
parts;  and  ground  gypsum,  seven  parts;  mixed,  applying  4  ozs.  of 
the  mixture  per  square  yard  from  the  stem  of  the  tree  outwards  to  a 
foot  all  round  beyond  the  spread  of  the  branches. 
Spray  of  Plant  to  Name  (Idem). — The  spray  certainly  is  not  a 
Marguerite  proper,  though  this  term  is  applied  to  the  Oxeye  Daisies, 
Pyrethrum  species,  as  well  as  to  other  species  of  Chrysanthemum, 
besides  the  true  Marguerites  or  Paris  Daisies,  C.  frutescens  and  vars.’ 
The  common  Oxeye  Daisy  of  our  fields,  C.  leucanthemum,  being 
frequently  called  Marguerite.  So  far  as  we  can  form  judgment  from  a 
spray  your  plant  is  the  Great  Oxeye,  Pyrethrum  uliginosum. 
Flower  and  Fruit  Farming  (TV.  R.  D.). — Write  to  the  secretary  of 
the  Royal  Agricultural  Society  of  England,  13,  Hanover  Square,  London, 
who  will  no  doubt  supply  you  with  what  you  require. 
Blanching  Seakale  (Somerset). — As  the  ashes  you  have  always  used 
for  covering  the  Seakale  for  late  use  are  objected  to,  and  possibly  earth 
or  even  cocoanut-fibre  refuse  would  be  equally  so,  and  as  you  have  got 
pots  to  avoid  contact  of  any  substance  with  Seakale,  it  would  not  be 
permissible  to  use  ashes  inside  them,  for  that  is  the  very  thing  objected 
to,  and  the  pots  in  such  case  wholly  unnecessary.  The  pots,  however, 
alone  will  not  answer  unless  you  place  earth  around  the  bottom  outside, 
and  also  use  some  material  over  the  top  opening,  such  as  old  sacking, 
before  placing  on  the  lid  tightly  so  as  to  entirely  exclude  light,  otherwise 
the  heads  of  Seakale  will  be  more  or  less  purplish  in  colour,  and  not 
thoroughly  blanched.  We  use  long  stable  litter  over  the  pots  so  as  to 
cover  them  well  over  to  the  ground,  and  this,  without  giving  any  heat, 
Beoures  perfect  blanching,  and  in  the  north  of  England  have  had 
excellent  produoe  in  June. 
Growing  Passiflora  edulis  (G.  H.). — The  plants  may  be  grown  in 
large  pots  or  tubs,  but  to  have  abundant  crops  of  fruit  they  require 
planting  in  beds  with  the  roots  restricted.  A  border  about  2  feet  wide 
along  the  front  of  a  house  will  support  a  plant  on  a  trellis  12  feet  across 
Good  drainage  is  necessary.  A  foot,  or  at  most  18  inches  depth  of 
border,  is  ample.  Turfy  loam  torn  up  roughly,  three  parts;  leaf 
mould  or  old  decayed  cow  manure,  one  part;  drift  or  other  sharp  sand, 
half  part  ;  charcoal  “nuts,”  half  part,  mixed,  form  a  suitable  compost. 
Do  not  plant  too  deeply,  but  firm  the  soil  well  about  the  ball.  Train 
the  growths  to  a  trellis  1  foot  from  the  glass,  and  so  that  every  leaf 
will  be  fully  exposed  to  light.  As  the  plant  produces  many  branches 
these  must  be  thinned  out,  but  no  stopping  is  necessary,  at  least  till  a 
full  crop  jf  fruit  is  set.  Watering  must  be  moderate  in  the  early  stages 
of  growth,  as  generous  supplies  result  in  sappy  growths.  After  a  good 
crop  of  fruit  is  set  liquid  manure  assists  the  swelling,  also  surface 
dressings  of  turfy  loam.  A  free  use  of  the  syringe  is  necessary  to 
prevent  and  dislodge  red  spider  and  thrips,  but  during  the  flowering 
and  setting  of  the  fruits  syringing  must  be  discontinued,  the  flowers 
being  kept  dry.  Ventilate  the  house  rather  freely,  especially  in  the 
early  part  of  the  day,  and  look  over  the  plant  about  midday  for 
fertilising  the  blossoms.  The  fruit  ripens  about  August,  or  earlier  if 
growth  is  started  early,  and  successionally  until  October.  At  that  time 
withholding  water  facilitates  the  ripening  of  the  wood  and  induces  rest, 
the  plant  being  partly  or  wholly  deciduous,  and  should  be  kept  somewhat 
dry  at  the  roots  during  winter.  It  winters  safely  in  a  temperature  of  45°, 
this  being  contingent  on  a  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere  and  soil, 
with  thoroughly  ripened  wood.  In  the  growing  season — February  to 
October — it  succeeds  admirably  in  the  temperature  of  a  vinery. 
Pruning  is  best  effected  when  the  plant  is  commencing  growth.  The 
shoots  can  then  be  thinned  and  shortened,  spurs  cut  in  to  one  or  two 
buds,  old  wood  removed  and  young  laid  in,  always  pruning  to  firm, 
thoroughly  ripened  wood,  for  none  other  is  healthy  and  fruitful. 
ilotus  villosa  (TV.  R'by). — This  is  an  attractive,  much-branched 
shrub  that  might  be  advantageously  included  in  every  collection  of  New 
Holland  plants.  The  flowers  are  canary  yellow,  the  standard  streaked 
Aotus  villosa. 
with  crimson  lines.  It  blooms  in  May  and  June.  A.  graoillima  is  a 
slender,  graceful  species  with  bright  yellow  flowers,  which  are  produced 
in  such  profusion  as  to  entirely  hide  the  leaves,  leaving  the  slender 
stems  like  long  racemes  of  flowers.  Both  plants  invariably  delight 
those  who  see  them  in  good  condition.  They  succeed  well  in  peat  and 
lo  im  in  equal  parts  with  a  good  portion  of  sand  added. 
