February  28,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
183 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Melons. — In  Houses. — For  placing  out  young  plants  a  ridge  about 
2  feet  wide  at  the  base,  with  the  top  flattened,  eo  as  to  give  a  depth  of 
about  10  or  12  inches,  is  preferable  to  hiilocks.  The  plants  should  be 
2£  to  3  feet  apart,  according  to  vigour  of  variety.  The  soil  must  be 
firm,  and  when  warm  planting  may  be  done,  keeping  the  seed  leaves 
clear  of  the  soil.  The  leading  shoots  should  be  taken  up  two-thirds  of 
the  distance  without  stopping,  then  pinch  out  the  point  of  each,  and  rub 
off  the  laterals  to  the  height  of  the  trellis.  Some  varieties  show  fruit 
freely  on  the  first  laterals,  and  as  early  fruit  is  a  main  feature  in  the 
case  of  the  first  plants  allow  them  to  remain,  taking  out  the  point  of  the 
shoot  at  the  joint  above  the  fruit  at  the  time  of  fertilising  the  blossom. 
To  allow  all  the  laterals  to  remain  would  very  much  overcrowd  the 
foliage,  therefore  rub  off  whilst  quite  young  every  alternate  one. 
Sprinkle  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  mornings  of  hot  days,  and  again 
at  closing  time  or  early  in  the  afternoon.  Ventilate  carefully,  avoiding 
cold  currents  of  air,  placing  some  hexagon  netting  or  scrim  canvas  over 
the  ventilators  when  the  external  air  is  sharp.  Maintain  a  night 
temperature  of  65°,  5°  more  in  mild  weather  and  5°  less  in  severe,  a  low 
night  temperature  being  better  than  a  high  one  and  a  dry  atmosphere, 
yet  it  must  not  be  of  long  duration,  or  the  plants  become  stunted  in 
growth.  The  day  temperature  should  be  kept  at  70°  to  75°,  rising  to 
80°  or  85°  from  sun  heat,  and  closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  or 
100°.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  90°.  Sow  seed  for 
raising  young  plants  to  sustain  the  succession,  and  shift  seedlings  into 
larger  pots,  or  add  soil  as  the  plants  advance,  stopping  those  for  frames 
at  the  second  rough  leaf,  but  not  for  trellises. 
In  Pits  and  Frames. —  Plants  stopped  at  the  second  rough  leaf  before 
or  after  planting  out  will  push  two  or  more  shoots,  those  from  the  seed 
leaves  being  rubbed  off,  and  the  two  shoots  in  turn  being  pinched  will 
give  four  shoots,  two  to  be  taken  to  the  front,  and  two  to  the  back  of 
the  frame.  Other  growths  that  appear  near  the  collar  of  the  plant 
should  be  rubbed  off  while  young,  not  encouraging  any  laterals  nearer 
the  stem  than  6  inches,  as  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  neck  clear.  Stop 
the  principal  shoots  when  within  a  foot  of  the  sides  of  the  pit  or  frame, 
thus  throwing  vigour  into  the  laterals,  and  the  growths  must  not  be 
crowded.  The  laterals  will  show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint,  and 
they  should  be  pinched  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  but  not  until  the 
blossom  is  fertilised.  Little  water  will  be  required,  nevertheless  main¬ 
tain  the  soil  in  a  moist  state,  but  avoid  a  saturated  condition.  Cover 
the  lights  with  double  mats  at  night,  and  see  that  the  linings  are 
regularly  attended  to,  renewing  as  required.  Prepare  materials  for 
fresh  beds  and  linings.  Three  parts  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  and  one  part 
stable  litter  make  the  best  beds,  mixing  the  materials  about  a  fortnight 
before  it  is  desired  to  make  the  beds.  Maintain  the  bottom  heat  at  85° 
to  90°,  taking  care,  however,  to  prevent  overheating. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — Top-dress  the  pots  with  a  compost 
of  equal  parts  good  turfy  loam  and  thoroughly  decayed  manure,  and 
keep  the  Vines  watered  with  weak  liquid  manure,  but  avoid  any 
approach  to  soddenness  of  soil.  Keep  the  laterals  below  the  fruit 
somewhat  closely  pinched,  but  allow  those  above  the  fruit  more  liberty, 
yet  avoid  overcrowding.  Ventilate  early  in  the  day,  affording  a  little 
air  at  70°,  increasing  it  with  sun  heat  to  85°,  closing  between  that  and 
80°,  and  if  an  advance  up  to  80°  all  the  better.  A  genial  and  especially 
ammoniated  atmosphere  is  of  primary  importance,  as  profiting  the 
Vines  and  retarding  red  spider.  Neat  stable  or  cowhouse  drainings 
diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water  answer  for  sprinkling;  also 
ammoniated  Peruvian  guano,  1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of  water,  dissolved  and 
strained  before  use,  and  applying  it  at  the  rate  of  about  a  gallon  to  a 
dozen  square  yards  of  surface,  such  as  paths,  and  not  for  general 
damping  purposes,  which  must  be  attended  to  two  or  three  times  a  day 
with  water,  using  the  ammoniated  liquor  about  twice  a  week,  or 
regularly,  for  filling  the  evaporation  troughs. 
Early  Planted-out  Vines. — Houses  started  early  in  December  have 
the  fruit  set  and  need  the  berries  thinning.  Remove  badly  set  and 
ill-shaped  clusters,  seeking  a  full  crop  of  good  shaped,  perfectly  finished 
berries.  Allow  laterals  to  extend  beyond  the  fruit  where  there  is  space 
for  its  exposure  to  light,  yet  not  encouraging  growth  to  the  prejudice  of 
the  principal  leaves.  Attend  to  stopping  frequently,  for  the  alternating 
accelerations  and  checks  to  root  action  consequent  on  encouraging  the 
laterals  and  then  removing  them  by  armfuls,  are  attended  by  the  worst 
consequences  to  the  foliage  and  fruit.  Afford  a  thorough  supply  of 
liquid  nourishment  to  the  inside  borders  at  intervals,  maintaining  the 
soil  in  a  due  state  of  moisture,  but  not  supplying  it  till  the  border  is 
getting  dry.  A  light  mulching  of  short  lumpy  manure,  such  as  is 
prepared  for  Mushroom  beds,  tends  to  encourage  surface  roots,  but 
avoid  fresh  horse  droppings  in  quantity.  Maimain  a  night  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat, 
commencing  to  ventilate  from  70°,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to 
85°  when  external  conditions  are  favourable,  closing  between  those 
temperatures,  damping  at  the  time  or  early  in  the  afternoon.  Avoid 
syringing  the  foliage  and  fruit,  as  however  clear  the  water  may  appear 
there  is  danger  of  sediment,  and  almost  invariab'y  a  deposit  is 
inseparable  from  the  use  of  the  syringe  over  the  Vines  after  the 
Grapes  are  set.  Outside  borders  should  be  protected  against  severe 
frosts  and  chills  from  cold  rains  or  melted  snow. 
Early  Muscats. — The  Vines  started  at  the  middle  of  December,  with 
acceleration  from  the  new  year,  are  approaching  flowering,  and  need  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  75°  to  80°  by  day,  and  10°  to  15° 
rise  from  sun  heat,  closing  at  between  80°  and  85°  when  bright  weather 
prevails.  It  is  desirable  to  keep  the  points  of  the  bunohes  well  up  to 
the  light,  as  Muscats  never  thrive  beneath  a  dense  canopy  of  foliage. 
When  they  commence  flowering  dust  the  bunches  with  a  camel’s-hair 
brush,  and  fertilise  every  one  with  the  pollen  of  a  free  setting  variety, 
such  as  Black  Hamburgh  or  Alicante.  To  ripen  early  in  June  Muscats 
must  be  pushed  ahead,  giving  plenty  of  heat,  and  not  pinching  for  air, 
so  as  to  secure  well  devoloped  foliage,  such  as  will  bear  exposure  to  the 
early  summer  sun  without  scorching.  They  also  require  plenty  of 
nourishment,  and  revel  in  a  border  of  rather  firm  gritty  material  of  a 
sustaining  nature,  never  being  satisfactory  in  very  light  soils,  but  these 
are  often  made  suitable  by  mulching  and  application  of  rather  thick 
liquid  manure.  Phosphate  of  lime  or  dissolved  raw  bones  allowed  to 
lie  until  mellow,  then  of  these  three  parts,  and  two  parts  nitrate  of 
potash,  with  one  part  each  of  sulphate  of  magnesia  and  sulphate  of 
lime,  mixed,  and  applied  at  the  rate  of  4  ozs.  per  square  yard,  suit 
Muscats  admirably.  It  is  a  lack  of  essential  food  that  causes  the 
white-edged  leaf,  and  is  one  reason  ^vhy  Muscats  are  so  much  more 
difficult  to  do  than  other  Grapes. 
• 
Tlie  Kitchen  Garden. 
Onions. — The  weather  has  prevented  this  crop  being  sown  in  the 
open  ground,  therefore  take  the  first  favourable  opportunity  of  doing 
so.  The  ground  must,  however,  be  quite  dry  on  the  surface,  and 
should  be  levelled  with  a  wooden  rake  and  trodden  firmly.  Very  light 
soil  may  be  rolled.  Pick  off  large  stones  and  leave  the  surface  smooth 
and  level.  Drills  should  be  drawn  a  foot  apart.  Stretch  the  garden 
line  and  form  the  drills  alongside  it  by  pressing  the  back  of  the  rake 
into  the  soil  not  deeper  than  half  an  inch.  Sow  the  seed  sparingly,  but 
evenly,  and  draw  in  the  soil  to  fill  the  drills  again,  treading  it  firmly, 
and  leaving  an  even  surface.  Some  of  the  best  varieties  are  Ailsa 
Craig,  Bedfordshire  Champion,  James’  Long  Keeping,  Rousham  Park 
Hero,  Brown  Globe,  and  White  Spanish.  Where  Onion  seed  has  been 
sown  in  boxes,  the  seedlings  will  now  be  advancing,  and  must  have 
plenty  of  light  and  air  to  render  them  sturdy.  Keep  on  a  shelf  near 
the  glass,  and  shortly  transfer  to  a  frame,  eventually  gradually  hardening 
to  outdoors,  so  as  to  be  able  to  plant  out  in  April.  Sow  Leeks  in  a 
similar  manner. 
Parsnips. — The  Hollow-crowned  or  Student  Parsnips  may  be  sown 
now.  Select  ground  not  recently  manured  near  the  snrface,  as  this 
causes  forked  roots.  The  drills  should  be  drawn  12  to  15  inches  apart. 
In  sowing  the  seed  either  scatter  very  thinly  in  a  continuous  line,  or 
drop  two  or  three  seeds  together  at  intervals  of  12  inches,  eventually 
thinning  the  plants  to  one. 
Cabbage.— The  best  of  the  plants  in  seed  beds  or  nursery  beds  should 
now  be  lifted  and  transplanted  permanently.  If  planted  thickly  in  rows 
in  the  autumn  remove  a  number  so  as  to  leave  the  remainder  18  inohes 
or  2  feet  apart,  planting  those  taken  out  at  a  similar  distance  on  a  rich 
piece  of  ground.  The  rows  should  be  2  feet  asunder.  The  permanent 
Cabbage  quarters,  that  is,  those  planted  in  autumn,  must  have  the  soil 
stirred  frequently  between  the  rows  of  plants  in  order  to  accelerate 
the  growth. 
Artichokes. — Jerusalem  Artichokes  may  be  planted  now  on  rich, 
deep  soil.  Should  the  roots  in  last  season’s  plantation  not  yet  be  lifted 
it  is  desirable  to  do  so.  Pick  out  the  roots  of  medium  size  for  planting, 
and  store  the  larger  in  sand  or  ashes  for  use.  Trenched  ground  suits 
the  Artichoke  best.  Plant  thp  tubers  in  rows  2  feet  or  2\  feet  apart, 
the  sets  a  foot  apart  in  the  drills,  which  may  be  6  inches  deep.  There 
are  two  varieties,  the  purple  and  white. 
Shallots. — It  has  not  been  possible  to  plant  these  as  early  as  usual, 
but  they  may  be  inserted  now  on  good  ground.  Draw  drills  a  foot 
apart,  and  plant  the  bulbs  half  their  depth  9  or  10  inches  apart. 
Spinach. — Round  or  summer  Spinach  ought  to  be  sown  in  wide  drills 
2  feet  apart,  or  where  room  is  soarce  the  sowings  may  be  made  between 
the  rows  of  Peas.  It  is  best  to  make  suocessional  sowings  every  two  or 
three  weeks.  Stronger  plants  and  larger  leaves  are  formed  if  the  seed 
is  sown  thinly. 
Lettuce. — On  a  warm,  rich  border  in  deep  soil  draw  drills  12  inches 
asunder,  and  sow  the  Cabbage  and  Cos  varieties.  Tom  Thumb  is  au 
excellent  Cabbage  variety,  and  Bath  or  Brown  Cos  and  Paris  Green 
good  Cos  varieties.  Thin  sowing  is  desirable,  as  early  thinning  of  the 
seedlings  is  necessary. 
Radishes  — Sow  the  Olive-shaped  and  long  varieties  on  rich  ground. 
Broadcast  sowing  is  best,  but  the  seed  must  not  be  spread  thickly,  as  if 
crowded  even  at  first  the  roots  are  never  so  good.  Sprinkle  soil  over 
the  seeds  after  sowing,  and  afford  some  protection  from  birds  until  the 
seed  has  well  germinated.  A  layer  of  light  litter  is  one  of  the  best 
protectors. 
