202 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
March  7,  1901. 
•Currants  to  one-third  their  length,  this  being  necessary  in  order  to 
secure  a  greater  number  of  branches,  and  produce  good  habited  bushes. 
Fruit  Forcing, 
'Cherry  House. — Ventilation  is  all-important  in  forcing  Cherries,  and 
requires  unremitting  attention.  A  free  circulation  of  air  should  pass 
through  the  house  whenever  the  temperature  exceeds  50°,  regulating 
the  amount  by  the  conditions  of  the  external  atmosphere.  Employ  fire 
heat  only  to  maintain  50°  through  the  day,  relying  on  sun  heat  for 
advancement,  and  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45°.  The 
blossoming  over  and  the  fruit  swelling,  recourse  may  again  be  had  to 
syringing,  but  avoid  keeping  the  trees  dripping  with  water,  always 
allowing  the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night.  Keep  a  keen  eye  on 
aphis,  and  promptly  fumigate  or  syringe  the  trees  with  quassia  water. 
Affected  shoots  should  be  gently  rubbed  between  the  fingers,  well 
moistened  with  the  preparation,  so  as  to  dislodge  the  pests  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves,  then  apply  the  liquid  at  a  temperature  of 
about  100°  by  means  of  a  spraying  apparatus,  which  insures  better 
distribution,  and  1  gallon  will  go  as  far  as  by  ordinary  syringing. 
Look  carefully  over  the  trees  for  grubs.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure 
to  the  border  as  required,  keeping  trees  in  pots  well  supplied,  and 
apply  top-dressings  of  rioh  material.  Pinch  the  side  growths  at  the 
fourth  or  fifth  leaf,  heeling-in  extension  or  side  growths  required  to 
cover  vacant  space. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — A  night  temperature  of 
50°  to  55°,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day,  with  10°  to  15°  more  from  sun  heat, 
especially  after  closing,  will  keep  the  trees  in  steady  growth  and  the 
fruit  freely  swelling.  Ventilate  from  60°,  increasing  with  sun  heat, 
taking  care  to  avoid  cold  draughts  and  sudden  depressions  of  tempera¬ 
ture,  especially  after  fluctuations,  as  such  cripple  the  foliage,  and  may 
cause  the  fruit  to  fall.  Syringe  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  with 
water  at  the  same  temperature  as  the  house,  and  always  sufficiently 
early  in  the  afternoon  to  allow  the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night. 
On  dull  days  omit  the  afternoon  syringing,  also  the  morning  when  cold 
and  sunless,  damping  the  paths  and  border  instead.  Disbud  carefully 
and  in  accordance  with  the  growth.  Trees  that  have  set  heavy  crops 
should  have  the  least  promising  fruits  removed.  To  help  weakly  trees 
liquid  manure  may  be  supplied  whenever  watering  is  necessary,  taking 
care  not  to  apply  it  too  strong  and  only  when  required. 
Second  Early  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  set  the 
fruit  well,  a  light  syringing  occasionally  after  this  is  effected  assisting 
the  trees  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the  petals.  Syringe,  however, 
cautiously  in  dull  weather,  as  it  weakens  the  growth,  yet  encourages 
it  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit.  Disbud  gradually  and  carefully,  not 
being  in  a  hurry  about  this,  but  practising  it  daily  when  the  fruit  is 
swelling,  removing  a  few  growths  here  and  there  so  as  not  to  give  a 
check  to  any  part,  but  secure  an  even  balance  of  vigour.  Where  there 
is  a  thick  set  of  fruit  remove  the  smallest  and  worst  plaoed  by  degrees. 
A  night  temperature  of  50°  is  safe  in  severe  weather,  and  55°  by  day,  5° 
more  in  mild  weather,  with  5°  to  10°  rise  from  sun  heat. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — The  flowers  are  expanded,  and  should  be 
fertilised  carefully  day  by  day  with  a  soft  brush  or  other  contrivance 
when  the  pollen  is  ripe.  Shaking  the  trees  answers  well  in  most  cases, 
it  being  done  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  and  again  about  noon.  Turn 
the  heat  on  in  the  morning  to  secure  and  keep  a  temperature  of  50°  by 
day,  ventilating  from  55°,  allowing  an  advance  to  60°  or  65°,  with  a  free 
circulation  of  air,  employing  fire  heat  only  at  night  to  keep  the 
temperature  between  40°  and  45°. 
Houses  to  Afford  Fruit  in  Late  July  and  Early  August. — The  trees 
and  structures  usually  started  about  this  time  are  advanced  for  flowering, 
the  anthers  showing  clear  of  the  corollas,  therefore  syringing  should 
cease,  maintaining  a  genial  atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths  in  the 
morning  and  early  afternoon.  A  temperature  of  50°  by  day,  and 
ventilation  from  that  point,  leaving  it  full  at  65°,  will  meet  their 
requirements,  40°  to  45°  being  ample  at  night.  If  the  border  is  at  all 
dry  afford  a  thorough  supply  of  water,  repeating  as  necessary,  but 
avoid  making  the  soil  sodden.  Where  the  blossom  buds  are  super¬ 
abundant  remove  those  on  the  under  side  or  at  the  back  of  the  trellis, 
drawing  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the  growths. 
Latest  Houses — The  chief  consideration  in  these  is  to  retard  the 
blossoming  as  much  as  possible,  therefore  admit  air  to  the  fullest 
extent,  as  the  already  swelling  and  developing  buds  will  not  take  any 
harm  from  frost  until  the  flowers  show  colour,  and  even  then  there  is 
safety  in  just  excluding  frost.  Any  pruning  or  arranging  of  the  trees 
on  the  trellises  should  be  completed  forthwith,  supplying  water  to  the 
border  to  insure  thorough  moisture,  and  keeping  as  cool  as  possible. 
Cucumbers. — Light  and  sun  heat  increase  the  evaporation,  neces¬ 
sitating  a  greater  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture,  therefore  damp,  the 
house  twice  a  day,  and  syringe  the  plants  lightly  on  fine  afternoons.  On 
cold  nights  65°  is  ample,  but  on  mild  nights  allow  5°  more,  maintaining 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  dosing  early  so  as  to 
continue  or  increase  to  90°  or  even  100°.  Afford  liquid  manure  once  or 
twice  a  week,  with  an  occasional  application  of  nitrate  of  soda,  £  oz.  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  and  prepared  overnight.  This  puts  vigour  into  the 
plants  and  both  size  and  colour  into  the  fruits.  Stop  the  shoots  one 
joint  beyond  the  stem  for  fruit.  Thin  the  Cucumbers  well  to  secure 
fine  specimens,  removing  superfluous  growth,  tendrils,  bad  leaves,  and 
male  blossoms.  Ventilate  early  and  carefully,  avoiding  draughts  and 
depressions  of  temperature. 
,®8  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Pyramid  Apple  Trees  (B.  W.  S.). — The  trees  should  not  be  cut-in 
quite  so  closely  as  last  season ;  close  pruning  in  winter  invariably 
produces  an  abundance  of  unfruitful  young  shoots.  Were  you  to 
shorten  the  branches  clesely  again  you  would  aggravate  the  evil  you 
wish  to  avoid.  Prune  the  trees  at  onoe  into  the  pyramid  form.  On 
some  of  them  the  young  wood  will  be  more  thickly  placed  than  it  is 
on  others ;  the  shoots  nearest  the  base  of  these  should  be  out  back  to 
two-thirds  of  their  length,  gradually  outtiug-in  closer  as  you  near  the 
apex  of  the  tree  so  as  to  insure  the  desired  shape.  The  trees  that  have 
fewer  branches  should  be  out  rather  more  closely.  We  also  advise  you 
to  practise  summer  pruning,  which  is  the  best  method  of  inducing 
fruitfulness. 
Treatment  of  Cut-back  vines  (S.  E.). — For  fruiting  in  pots  next 
season  these  Vines  should  now  be  fit  for  shaking  out  and  repotting,  or 
if  that  has  already  beeu  done  and  the  roots  have  reached  the  sides  of 
the  pots  they  will  need  shifting  into  the  fruiting — 12-inch — pots.  If 
they  have  been  given  bottom  heat  they  should  be  returned  to  it  for  a 
time,  75°  to  80°  being  sufficient,  otherwise  bottom  heat  is  not  necessary, 
yet  the  pots  are  better  stood  on  slates  over  hot-water  pipes  than  on  a 
cool  bottom.  Keep  the  house  close  and  moderately  moist  until  they 
beoome  established.  Train  the  canes  near  the  glass,  pinching  the 
laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  thus  secure  solidified  growth  and  plnmp  buds. 
Use  clean  pots,  and  efficient  drainage.  Turfy  loam  with  a  fifth  of  old 
mortar  rubbish  answers  well  for  potting,  but  a  quart  of  steamed  bone- 
meal  and  soot,  and  double  the  quantity  of  wood  ashes,  may  be  mixed 
with  every  bushel  of  loam. 
Cranberry  Cuttings  ( E .  O.  F.). — Though  the  common  Cranberry 
(Oxycoccus  palustris)  grows  somewhat  plentifully  in  oertain  peaty  and 
wet  districts  in  the  northern  parts  of  Britain,  we  are  not  in  a  position 
to  say  where  you  may  procure  cuttings,  as  the  proprietors  are  usually 
averse  to  wild  plants  being  tampered  with,  and  only  admit  of  their 
being  taken  by  leave.  Perhaps  cuttings  may  be  procured  through  the 
principal  nurserymen  who  have  business  connection  with  proprietors 
where  the  common  Cranberry  grows,  and  would  arrange  for  a  supply  at 
a  price  agreed  upon.  Cuttings,  however,  require  to  be  inserted  under 
a  handglass,  and  shaded  until  established.  The  long  creeping  shoots 
with  roots  are  sometimes  called  outtings,  and  these  may  be  planted 
where  they  are  to  remain.  The  large  fruited  or  American  Cranberry 
(O.  macrocarpus)  is  usually  kept  in  stook  by  nurserymen,  the  fruit 
being  much  larger.  The  plants  should  be  put  out  early  in  autumn  or  in 
spring,  2  feet  apart  every  way,  and  in  favourable  circumstances  soon 
spread  and  cover  the  ground.  It  is  likely  the  Cranberries  will  succeed 
in  the  situation  you  mention,  but  the  plants  must  have  plenty  of  light. 
Browallia  elata  (TV.  B.). — This  plant  is  a  useful  one,  as  it  may  be 
had  in  flower  all  the  year  by  sowing  a  pinch  of  seed  in  February  and 
again  early  in  August;  but  it  is  as  a  winter  and  spring-flowering  plant 
that  it  is  most  deserving  of  culture.  The  blue  Phlox-like  flowers,  which 
proceed  freely  from  the  tops  of  the  side  shoots,  contrast  effectively  when 
associated  with  flowering  plants  of  light  and  bright  shades  of  colour. 
A  stock  of  this  beautiful  and  very  easily  managed  plant  can  readily  be 
raised  from  seed  sown  in  4-inch  pots  previously  crocked  and  filled  to  the 
rim  with  a  light  compost  consisting  of  three  parts  of  sandy  loam  and 
one  of  leaf  mould.  Cover  the  seeds  lightly  with  some  fine  soil,  then  put 
the  pots  in  heat  and  cover  them  with  a  square  or  two  of  glass  and  a 
little  moss,  which  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  appear 
through  the  soil.  From  this  time  the  seedlings  should  be  gradually 
inured  to  light  and  air  to  prevent  them  from  making  a  weakly  growth, 
and  with  this  object  in  view  the  plants  should  be  grown  on  shelves 
near  the  glass.  A  board  resting  on  a  few  flower  pots  on  brioks  in  an 
early  Melon  or  Cucumber  frame  would  be  a  suitable  place  in  which  to 
grow  the  plants  in  the  earlier  stages.  Three  plants  in  a  pot  will  be 
sufficient.  Place  a  stick  about  18  inches  long  to  eaoh  plant  for  support, 
and  keep  well  supplied  with  water  at  the  roots,  and  sprinkled  with  tepid 
water  on  bright  mornings  and  afternoons,  as  much  with  a  view  to 
promoting  a  healthy  growth  in  the  plants  as  to  prevent  the  attacks  of 
red  spider.  If  larger  plants  are  desired  a  portion  of  the  stock  should 
be  shifted  into  6  or  8-inoh  pots ;  and  those  in  the  4-inoh  pots  should  be 
top-dressed  with  a  mixture  of  pulverised  horse  droppings  and  loam  when 
the  plants  attain  a  height  of  10  or  12  inches. 
