Supplement  to 
220 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
/ 
March  14,  1901. 
Rose  Show  Fixtures  in  1901. 
June  12th  (Wednesday). — Yorkt. 
„  26th  (Wednesday).  -  Richmond  (Surrey),  N.K.S. 
„  29th  (Saturday). — Canterbury  and  Windsor. 
July  2nd  (Tuesday)  — Drill  Hall  (R.H.S.)  and  Southampton*. 
„  3rd  (Wednesday). — Hanley*. 
,.  4th  (Thursday). — Temple  Gardens  (N.R.S). 
„  9th  (Tuesday).— Gloucester,  Harrow,  and  Woverhamptonf. 
,,  10th  (Wednesday). — Worthing. 
„  11th  (Thursday). — Bath,  Brentwood,  Eltham,  Helensburgh,  and 
Wood  bridge. 
,,  17th  (Wednesday). — Ulverston  (N.R.S.)  and  Cardiff*. 
,,  18th  (Thursday). —  Halifax. 
„  20th  (Saturday). — Newton  Mearns. 
„  23rd  (Tuesday). — Tibshelf. 
*  Shows  lasting  two  days.  +  Shows  lasting  three  days. 
The  above  are  the  only  fixtures  definitely  arranged  that  have  as  yet 
reached  me.  I  shall  be  glad  to  receive  the  dates  of  other  Rose  shows 
(or  horticultural  exhibitions  where  Roses  form  a  leading  feature)  for 
insertion  in  future  lists. — Edw.  Mawley,  Bosebank,  Berkhamsted,  Herts. 
Pruning  Newly  Planted  Climbing  Roses. 
Roses,  with  stems  6  feet  or  so  in  length,  which  were  lifted  from  the 
opeD  ground  some  short  while  back  and  planted  as  climbers,  should 
have  these  stems  cut  hard  back  in  order  to  secure  good  growth  and 
flowering  wood  for  the  coming  year.  We  planted  some  Roses  in  the 
autumn.  They  had  grown  vigorously  in  the  nursery,  producing  stems 
5  feet  to  8  feet  long,  but  the  roots  had  been  wretchedly  treated,  and 
when  received  were  not  a  foot  in  length.  As  there  would  be  danger 
of  those  few  roots  failing  to  supnly  such  a  well-developed  branch 
system,  we  therefore  cut  the  stems  down  to  2  feet  or  less  at  the  time 
of  planting  ;  and  now  the  top  buds  on  the  shortened  stems  are  pushing 
from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  length.  But  as  we  do  not  want  these 
very  early  shoots,  and  as  they  may  yet  be  caught  by  frost,  we  shall 
cut  the  stems  still  further  back  to  bold  dormant  buds  from  6  inches 
to  a  foot  from  the  ground.  The  root-force  is  thus  concentrated  on 
these  few  later  buds,  and  we  can  reasonably  expect  them  to  produce 
strong  growths  during  the  season.  On  the  other  hand,  had  the  last 
season’s  stems  been  left  their  full  length  we  would  have  had  puny 
growths,  or  none  at  all.  It  is  not  necessary  to  cut  back  so  closely 
those  Roses  that  have  been  grown  in  pots  for  a  season,  because 
practically  all  the  roots  can  be  preserved  when  planting,  but  even  then 
cutting  the  stems  back  closely  is  mostly  advantageous. — G.  A. 
Bedding  Roses. 
While  the  H.P.’s,  and  more  recently  the  Teas  and  H.  Teas,  have 
been  included  liberally  in  all  gardens,  the  dwarf  China  Roses  and  the 
suitable  bedding  Briers  have  been  less  freely  planted.  Yet  when  the 
Chinas  and  the  dwarfer  Briers  are  employed  in  massed  beds  the 
richness  and  enlivened  aspect  of  the  garden  well  repays  for  the 
expense  and  trouble  incurred.  One  can  never  plant  too  many  Roses; 
they  are  ever  tresh  and  beautiful.  The  essentials  of  a  good  bedding 
Rose  are  chiefly  vividness  of  bloom,  free-flowering  and  long-lasting 
qualities,  with  the  power  to  continue  in  a  satisfactory  state  year  after 
vear.  No  colour  is  richer  or  more  suitable  in  massing  than  crimson. 
Bucher  is  one  of  the  best  bedding  Roses;  Mab  is  another  good  one, 
and  Mrs.  Bo.-anquet  must  also  be  included.  The  varieties  of  China 
Roses  have  been  increased  by  some  splendid  introductions  during 
recent  years,  all  more  or  less  suitable  for  pure  bedding.  An  open 
aspect  is  generally  or  always  commendable,  and  where  beds  can  be 
laid  out  on  grass  near  the  dwelling-house,  or  a  rustic  pavilion  or  other 
retreat  in  the  grounds,  surely  few  features  could  be  arranged  to  surpass 
the  excellent  effect  that  these  furnish.  We  have  found  that  sucn 
climbing  Roses  as  Red  and  White  Pet,  Crimson  Rambler,  and  others, 
are  marvellously  fine  plants  in  large  beds,  say  10  feet  through,  when 
the  system  of  pegging  down  the  strong  shoots  is  resorted  to.  This  is 
a  method  of  culture  not  fully  known — or  such  would  appear  to  be  the 
case  from  the  few  instances  in  wh  ch  one  sees  it  practised.  Very 
strong-growing  Hybrid  Perpetuals  can  be  admirably  treated  in  this 
way.  Where  very  large  <xhibition  blooms  are  desired  it  is  always 
recognised  as  best  to  prune  hard  back,  but  if  a  profusion  of  flowers 
are  rather  preferred  it  is  certainly  the  wiser  plan  to  adopt  the  pegging- 
down  method.  Borders  do  not  always  allow  of  this  beiog  done,  but 
where  there  are  full  beds  of  one  variety  it  could  well  be  oftener 
attempted. — K. 
Javanese  Rhododendrons. 
The  beautiful  sections  of  intermediate  house  Rhododendrons,  which 
come  under  the  general  title  of  Javanese  Rhododendrons,  have  been 
raised  by  the  crossing  of  a  few  species  native  to  the  Malay  peninsula 
and  the  islands  of  the  neighbouring  archipelago.  Messrs.  James  Veitch 
and  Sons,  Ltd.,  Chelsea,  have  had  the  honour  of  introducing  both  the 
original  species  and  the  splendid  hybrids  which  have  resulted  in  their 
hands.  During  the  whole  of  the  winter  season  each  Drill  Hall  show  of 
the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  is  brightened  by  an  exhibition  of 
exquisite  blooms  from  the  Chelsea  stock.  We  know  for  a  fact  that 
Messrs.  Veitch  have  had  thirty.five  varieties  in  bloom  at  Christmas. 
The  essay  on  this  section  of  the  Rhododendron,  which  we  are  pleased 
to  be  able  to  furnish,  was  written  by  Mr.  F.  S.  Sillitoe,  who  has  had 
practical  experience  with  the  Chelsea  plants  themselves,  under  Mr. 
John  Heal,  V.M.H.  The  paper  was  read  before  the  Kew  Gardeners’ 
Mutual  Improvement  Association  in  January,  this  year,  as  follows  : — 
The  Javanese  Rhododendrons  inhabit  the  warmer  climates  of  the 
Malay  archipelago,  and  one  must  accordingly  allow  them  a  temperature 
and  atmosphere  to  suit  their  requirements.  This  is  where  many  fail 
to  cultivate  this  section  successfully.  They  are  termed  “  greenhouse 
Rhododendrons,”  but,  properly  speaking,  a  warm  greenhouse  should  be 
accorded — i.e.,  50°  to  60°  in  winter,  and  above  all  a  moist  atmosphere 
at  all  seasons  is  necessary.  During  hot  summer  days  syringing  the 
houses  three  times  is  not  too  much,  closing  the  house  after  the  last 
syringing,  and  in  spring  when  young  growth  commences  air  must  be 
given  sparingly,  especially  top  air,  though  towards  autumn  when  the 
wood  is  ripening  more  may  be  given.  It  is  not  wise  to  prune  these 
Rhododendrons  hard.  When  a  plant  has  become  leggy  do  not  cut  it, 
but  bend  it  as  much  as  possible  without  splitting,  and  tie  the  shoots 
into  position.  Young  buds  soon  start  into  growth,  and  if  this  growth 
is  kept  pinched  and  tied  into  place  a  bushy  plant  is  soon  grown. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  cuttings,  not  by  grafting,  for  no 
suitable  stocks,  I  believe,  can  be  found.  Cuttings  of  the  ripened 
growth  of  the  past  season  are  taken  in  late  autumn,  and  are  potted 
singly  into  thumb  pots.  The  young  roots  must  not  be  disturbed  in 
the  first  shift  more  than  is  necessary.  Employ  fine  peat  and  sand,  and 
place  them  in  a  good  bottom  heat,  and  keep  rather  moist,  though  a 
lungus  which  turns  parts  of  the  leaf  brown  makes  its  appearance  if 
the  soil  is  kept  too  wet.  This  must  be  cut  out  at  once,  for  it  spreads 
very  rapidly.  Keep  the  plants  well  shaded,  placing  brown  paper  or 
tiffany  over  the  cases  as  well  as  outside  blinds,  and  never  let  any 
become  dry,  for  if  they  flag  they  seldom  recover. 
This  section,  as  it  is  represented  to-day  in  our  gardens,  is  one  of 
the  finest  examples  of  the  hybridist’s  skill  and  patience  that  one  can 
point  to.  I  might  mention  here  that  this  section  does  not  seem  in 
any  way  troubled  by  the  dreadful  fogs  and  weeks  of  the  usual  winter 
gloom  that  are  experienced  every  year  near  the  metropolis,  while  the 
Himalayan  and  Azaleas — especially  indica — section,  which  are  imported 
from  Holland  by  the  thousand  every  winter  to  brighten  the  conser¬ 
vatories,  are  stripped  of  their  foliage  if  not  thoroughly  established. 
A  few  remarks  on  the  flower  may  not  be  out  of  place.  The 
Rhododendron  belongs  to  a  sub-order  of  the  Ericaceae,  and  the  flowers 
are  not  adapted  for  wind  pollination,  for  we  notice  that  the  pollen  is 
not  dust-like  as  in  many  flowers,  but  forms  threads.  The  pollen 
grains  on  leaving  the  mother  cells  do  not  separate,  but  remain  together 
and  form  tetrads,  and  these  leave  the  anther  cavities  in  this  condition  ; 
but  all  these  tetrads  are  also  joined  by  a  substance  termed  viscin, 
which  is  supposed  to  be  formed  from  the  broken  down  walls  of  the 
mother  cells.  The  anthers  open  by  a  terminal  pore,  as  in  Erica,  but 
in  Erica  ihe  pollen  is  discharged,  and  the  anther  has  a  hair-like 
appendage  which  is  absent  in  Rhododendron.  A  large  and  prominent 
stigma,  which  is  very  sticky,  often  fertilised  by  the  corolla  partly 
falling  off,  and  hanging  attached  to  this  till  ripe  tor  pollination,  as  the 
plant  is  protandrous,  though  more  often  fertilised  by  insects.  The 
fruit  is  a  woody  capsule,  taking  several  weeks  to  ripen,  and  contains 
very  small  seeds.  There  are  one  or  two  striking  differences  between 
this  section  and  that  of  the  Himalayan  species.  No  pure  yellow  has 
been  produced  in  the  latter,  while  in  this,  since  the  introduction  of 
Teysmanni,  several  hybrids  of  the  most  beautiful  yellow  and  orange 
shades  have  resulted  (see  page  221). 
The  flowers  are  mostly  of  a  tubular  form,  especially  those  with 
R.  jasminiflorum  in  their  parentage.  Furthermore,  they  are  generally  of 
a  true  self  colour,  and  have  no  scent ;  while  the  Himalayan  have  large 
open  campanulate  coroll  is.  Many  are  sweetly  scented,  and  have  deep 
spots  or  blotches  on  their  throats.  Great  difficulty  has  been  found  in 
crossing  these  with  the  Himalayan  species,  only  one  hybrid  having 
bjen  secured,  and  that  was  between  R.  Princess  Royal  (Javanese)  and 
R.  Aucklandi.  The  hybrid  was  named  Pearl,  a  variety  with  white 
flowers  of  R.  Princess  Royal  shape,  so  that  R.  Aucklandi  neutralises 
the  pink  of  R.  Princess  Royal,  but  it  did  not  alter  the  form  of  the 
flower.  Another  curious  cross  was  between  R.  J.-j.  var.  Lord 
Wolseley  and  Azalea  indica  var.  Stella,  which,  though  sown  iu  1883, 
