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March  14, 1901.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE 
Tl\e  Cultivation  of  Tomatoes. 
March  is  the  best  month  for  commencing  the  culture  of  Tomatoes, 
whatever  method  of  growing  them  is  adopted.  Seedlings  raised  now 
grow  away  with  com-iderable  vigour,  owing  to  the  generally  increased 
amount  of  light  and  the  usually  higher  mean  temperatu  e  of  warm 
structures  used  for  early  cultivation  of  Tomatoes  and  other  subjects. 
At  this  S'  ason  of  the  year  the  quickest  method  of  raising  p  ants  is  by 
seed,  sow  ng  some  good  and  reliable  variety,  which  should  be  grown 
on  without  check  in  full  light  and  a  dry  warm  temperature.  The 
cbiet  matter  in  sowing  Tomato  seed  is  to  sow  it  thinly,  so  that  the 
plants  from  the  first  are  not  crowded.  The  seeds  are  best  sown  in  5  or 
6  inch  pots,  these  being  amply  drained  and  filled  with  good  compost, 
con-dsting  of  loam  and  leaf  soil,  with  a  free  admixture  of  sand.  Press 
it  firm  y  into  the  pots,  and  water  slig  tly  ;  then  sow  the  seeds  an 
inch  apart  over  the  surface,  and  cover  with  a  little  soil  pressed  gently 
down  upon  it.  Mrintaining  this  soil  moist  without  watering  is 
advantageous,  and  this  may  be  done  by  covering  tiie  pots  with  glass 
and  paper  to  exclude  light.  Place  in  a  temperature  of  60°,  which  wdl 
soon  inuuce  the  seeds  to  germinate.  When  this  is  effected,  remove  the 
glass  and  paper,  and  the  next  day  elevate  the  pots  close  to  the  glass 
on  a  warm  shelf,  wh  re  the  young  plants  will  grow  sturdily,  instead 
of  advancing  too  rapidly  in  length.  Afford  due,  but  not  saturating, 
supplies  of  water,  which  of  course  is  better  if  of  the  same  tempprature 
as  he  house  in  which  the  plants  are  growing.  The  result  will  not 
only  be  sturdy  |  lauts,  but  will  be  furnished  with  a  nice  lot  of  roots. 
On  passing  out  of  the  seed  leaf  into  the  rough  leaf  the  seedlings 
should  then  be  transferred  to  pots  3  inches  in  diameter.  Use  a  similar 
compost  to  that  recommended  for  sowing  the  seed,  and  pot  the  plants 
low  down  so  as  to  bury  the  stems  up  to  the  seed  leaves.  The  object 
of  this  is  to  inuuce  them  to  emit  roots,  which  sturdy  stemmed  plants 
wdl  reidily  do.  Tnis  materially  strengthens  the  plants  still  further, 
but  the  ligtit  position  accorded  the  plants  must  be  continued.  In  a 
very  short  time,  with  careful  attention  not  to  allow  the  plants  to 
suffer  for  want  of  water,  they  will  be  ready  for  a  further  shift  into 
larger  pots;  5  or  6-inch  size  pots  are  suitable  if  clean  and  dry.  Place  a 
few  crocks  at  the  base,  and  over  them  portions  of  turf.  For  compost 
prepare  some  turfy  material  mixed  with  sand,  wood  ashes,  and  a 
little  decayed  manure  and  bonemeah  Turn  out  the  plants  from  the 
small  pots  before  they  become  root-bound,  and  place  the  balls  direct 
on  the  turfy  material  over  the  drainage.  Work  compost  round  them, 
making  it  firm  with  a  blunt  stick.  If  placed  in  the  pots  as  low  as 
possible,  more  stem  will  be  buried,  and  an  increased  supply  of  surface 
roots  obtained.  By  the  time  the  plants  are  becoming  established  in 
these  pot 8  somewhat  cooler  treatment  will  suffice.  They  can  stand 
on  a  shelf  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  where  light  is  abundant  and  air 
liberal  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable,  i'tse  plants  are  placed  in 
these  pots  prelim  nary  to  the  final  potting  or  planting  out.  This 
impor'ant  operation  must  be  carried  out  before  the  plants  are  root- 
bound. 
The  compost  for  the  final  potting  should  be  of  a  substantial 
character.  A  strong  holding  loam  should  be  the  main  ingreuient. 
Of  i his  employ  four  pans — one  part  manure,  an  admixture  of  wood 
ashes  or  burnt  refuse,  pounded  brick  dust,  and  bonemeal.  Mix  all 
well  together  and  make  moist,  though  not  wet.  The  readiest  method 
ol  growing  Tomatoes  is  to  plant  out  on  shallow  borders  on  the  sid’S 
of  a  spau-root  house,  training  the  stems  up  the  roof.  The  border  may 
be  9  inches  in  depth,  and  about  15  inches  wide.  The  base  ought  to 
be  sligntly  inclin'd  or  suitably  drained  to  carry  off  superfluous  water. 
Place  the  plants  on  small  mounds  of  soil,  arranging  them  afoot  apat. 
Not  moie  than  enough  soil  should  be  used  to  nicely  cover  and 
surround  the  ball  of  roots  at  first,  but  press  it  well  round.  The  ball 
of  rot  ts  and  soil  sho  dd  be  thoroughly  moist,  and  the  compost  used 
also  in  a  healthfully  moist  condition.  Little  water  will  then  be 
requin d  until  roi  ts  are  pushing  and  the  soil  becomes  some 'hat  dry. 
Ti.e  time  elapsing  before  this  becomes  necessary  varies  according  to 
the  weather.  When  water  is  given,  sufficient  may  be  afforded  to  soak 
through  the  whole  mas-,  repeating  this  as  cecrssary. 
If  pot  culture  is  decided  upon,  the  size  of  fruiting  pot.  should  be 
11  or  12  inches.  Place  at  the  bottom  a  little  well-placed  drainage, 
consisting  of  crocks  or  oyster  shells,  and  cover  with  a  layer  of  turf. 
The  compost  lecommended  for  plant  ng  out  may  also  be  used  for 
potj.  In  the  fruiting  pots  place  the  plants  low  down,  and  s  irround 
with  soil  in  layeis,  making  each  very  firm  by  ramming  with  a  blunt 
stick.  Wnen  the  ball  i  as  been  covered,  enough  has  been  used  at  this 
stage.  The  pots  with  the  plants  must  be  stood  in  as  light  a  position 
as  possible,  carefully  watering.  No  more  soil  sh  uld  be  a  ded  uutil 
the  first  bunch  of  fruit  is  formed,  when  apply  a  top-dressing  of  rich 
empost,  mainly  loam,  manure,  bonemeal,  and  wood  ashes,  1  or 
2  inches  thick,  making  it  firm.  The  trail  ing  of  the  plants,  either 
when  plan  ed  out  or  in  pots,  is  best  confined  to  one  stem,  securing  to 
wires  under  the  roof,  or  in  the  case  of  pots  to  upright  stakes  inserted  in 
AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
them.  The  method  of  confining  the  plants  to  single  stems  necessitates 
some  pruning  away  of  superfluous  shoots.  This,  however,  should  be 
done  early,  when  the  shoots  which  are  to  be  removed  are  small.  These 
are  the  growths  which  push  from  the  axils  of  the  principal  lea'  es. 
They  should  be  Tubbed  out  with  the  finger  and  thumb  when  they 
have  attained  to  an  inch  in  length.  So  long  as  the  main  stems  extend 
these  shoots  will  be  produced,  and  if  not  closely  attended  to  some  will 
soon  grow  strongly,  advancing  into  vigorous  branch  growth,  and  cause 
crowding,  which  is  detrimental  to  prolific  fruiting. 
By  tne  time  the  roots  have  increased  and  taken  possession  of  the 
soil,  the  first  truss  of  bloom  will  have  been  pr  duced  ai  d  a  nice  bu  ch 
of  fruit  set  and  swelling.  The  plants  are  then  ready  for  some 
additional  food,  which  should  be  given  in  the  f  >rm  of  top-dressings 
of  rich  soil  mixed  with  a  little  bonemeal,  guano,  or  some  general 
artifici  il  fertili  er.  About  2  inches  of  compost  nay  be  given  at  one 
time,  pressing  it  firmly  down,  and  water  the  plants  as  freely  as  b  fore. 
When  a  new  set  of  roots  have  ramified  well  into  this  fresh  compost 
another  similar  dressing  should  be  given,  repeating  toe  operation  each 
time  roots  fully  occupy  the  new  compost.  The  activity  of  the  roots  is 
thus  maintained,  and  the  plants  go  on  producing  truss  alter  truss  of 
fruit.  The  watering  must  at  all  times  be  of  a  copious  characmr,  and  so  as 
to  wet  the  whole  ball  of  soil  and  roots.  If  this  is  not  done  the 
flowers  will  drop  without  setting  fruit.  When  the  pots  are  becoming 
well  packed  with  roots  farmyard  liquid  manure  is  beneficial,  also 
clear  soot  water.  Sprinklings  of  artificial  manure,  washing  it  in,  are 
helpful  and  sustain  the  plant  when  burdene )  with  fruit  and  still 
producing  bloom.  A  constant  circulation  of  air  is  indispensable  to 
Tomatoes,  but  in  cold  dull  weather  also  afford  a  little  gentle  heat  to 
develop  a  dry  and  buoyant  atmosphere  and  ai  l  the  setting  of  fruit. 
These  are  ex> Herat  aids  in  dispersing  the  pollen,  but  lurther  help 
may  be  given  by  shaking  the  truss  of  bio  im  when  the  flowers  are 
fully  open  at  midday.  Large  trusses  of  bloom  frequ  mtly  have  one 
large  deformed  flower.  This  is  best  removed  as  it  only  produces 
detormed  fruit. 
Regular  attention  in  supplying  moisture  to  the  roots  is  essential,  as 
irregularity  in  doing  so  may  cause  the  fruit  to  crack.  Ripe  fru  t, 
however,  banging  on  the  plants  after  it  is  ripe  is  liable  to  crack. 
Therefore,  as  soon  as  it  is  ready  gather  and  use.  Any  fruits  that 
are  not  fully  ripe,  and  which  may  crack  if  left,  can  be  rem  wed  and 
finished  on  a  warm  sunny  shelf.  Their  removal  rel  eves  the  plants,  and 
enables  the  grower  to  continue  the  application  of  food  and  moisture  in 
a  liberal  manner  for  the  benefit  of  the  succeeding  bunches.  The 
wholesale  removal  of  leaves  is  to  be  deprecated,  <r  severe  shortening 
before  the  crop  is  fully  matured.  Some  of  the  lower  leaves  as  they 
begin  to  turn  yellow  may  be  cut  away  or  reduced.  When  the  space 
available  for  the  main  stem  to  extend  is  filled,  top  the  plants,  and 
always  rigidly  suppress  side  growths. — E.  D.  S. 
Royal  Horticultural  Society. 
Drill  Hall,  March  12th. 
The  meeting  at  the  Drill  Hall  on  Tuesday  last  was  largely  attended, 
and  in  poiut  of  numbers  and  quality  of  exhibits  it  was  certainly  the 
best  since  the  new  year  began.  The  bulbous  flowering  subjec  s  as 
represented  by  Lacbenalias,  Narcissi,  and  Irisis  f  irmed  a  conspicuous 
feature,  while  the  Orchid  display  was  indeed  extensive  and  very  fine. 
Messrs.  Veitch  and  A.  J.  Thomas  brought  up  1  irge  colleonons  of 
splendid  Apples  to  refresh  the  mind  as  to  what  can  be  done  on  British 
soil.  The  display  of  Cyclamens,  Tulips,  and  forced  shrubs  were  likewise 
features  of  great  attraction.  The  Narcissus  Commit! ee  sat  for  the  first 
time  this  season,  but  they  recommended  no  awards.  In  the  afternoon 
a  lecture  was  to  have  been  given  by  Mr.  G.  Davison  on  “  Pergolas," 
but  this  was  postponed  owing  to  the  author’s  illness.  Prof.  Henslow 
gave,  instead,  an  interesting  discourse  on  some  of  the  plants  exhibitea. 
W.  Bennett-Poe,  Esq.,  occupied  the  chair.  There  were  thirty-one  new 
Fellows  elected.  We  learn  that  at  the  next  meeting  on  the  26th  inst., 
Captain  Holford  of  Westonbirt  intends  to  stage  a  collection  of  his 
wonderful  Amaryllis  (Hippeastrums). 
Fruit  and  Vegetable  Committee. 
Present  :  Geo.  Bunyard,  Esq.  (in  the  chair)  ;  with  Messrs.  Henry 
Esling,  Geo.  Keif,  Jos.  Cheat,  J.  Willard,  J.  W.  Bites,  S.  Mortimer, 
Alex.  Dean,  C.  Herrin,  E.  Beckett.,  J.  Wright,  H.  Matknain,  VV.  Poupart, 
Jas.  H.  Veitch,  W.  Iggulden,  A.  Ward,  G.  Norman,  J.  Smith,  F.  Line, 
A.  H.  Pearson,  H.  Somers  Rivers,  W.  Wilas,  and  J.  Jaques. 
Mr.  A.  J.  Thomas,  Rodmersham,  Sittingbourne,  was  represented  by 
a  collection  of  Apples  and  Pears.  The  specimens  were  as  a  rule  clean, 
of  good  size  and  beautifully  ooloured.  Thebsst  Apples  were  Newton 
Wonder,  Lord  Derby,  Blue  Pearmain,  Chelmsford  W  mder,  Glo  ia 
Mundi,  The  Queen,  Bramley’s  Seedling,  Royal  Jubilee,  Line’s  Prince 
Albert,  Bismarck,  Annie  Elizabeth,  Cox’s  Orange  Pippin,  Duke  of  York, 
Hoary  Morning,  Barnack  Beauty,  and  Northern  Spy  (silver  Knightian 
medal). 
