March  14,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
229 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Melons. — To  secure  a  good  set  of  fruit  on  the  earliest  plants  it  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  bottom  heat  at  80°  to  85°,  with  sufficient 
moisture  in  the  soil  to  prevent  flagging.  Activity  at  the  roots  is 
essential  to  the  fruit  swelling,  and  will  prevent  grossness  unless  the 
soil  is  surcharged  with  water.  It  ought  to  incline  to  dryness,  so  as  to 
arrest  growth,  which  centres  the  forces  on  reproduction.  A  ra'her  dry, 
warm  air  favours  the  production  of  pollen,  affording  a  little  air 
constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  flowers. 
Fertilise  the  blossoms  every  day  when  fully  expanded,  and  stop  the 
growths  one  joint  beyond  the  fruits.  When  these  commence  swelling 
remove  all  flowers,  earthing  the  roots  by  placing  warm  soil  against  the 
sides  of  the  hillocks  or  ridges,  pressing  it  firmly.  Apply  water  as 
required  ;  avoid  a  srddened  condition  of  the  soil;  sprinkle  the  floor  in 
the  morning  arid  evening,  lightly  syringing  the  plants  at  closing  time 
when  the  days  are  bright. 
Melons,  to  swell  well,  require  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  or  a  little 
more  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and  80°  to  90°  from 
sun  heat.  Close  early  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  raise  to  90°  to  95°, 
even  100°.  This  will  do  no  barm  provided  the  atmosphere  is  moist.  If 
a  succession  of  f i  uit  is  wanted  in  the  same  house  some  of  the  plants 
should  be  deprived  of  the  flowers  that  appear  on  the  first  laterals, 
stopping  these  at  the  second  joint  to  cause  the  sub-laterals  to  show  fruit, 
which  will  be  several  days  later,  but  the  fruit  will  be  finer,  because  the 
plant 8  are  stronger.  Quality,  however,  depends  upon  the  solidification 
of  the  growths,  this  being  effected  by  exposure  to  light  and  steady 
supplies  of  nutrition.  Place  supports  to  the  fruits  in  due  course  to 
relieve  the  plants  of  the  weight.  Half-inch  boards  6  to  7  inches  square, 
suspended  in  a  sloping  direction  by  four  pieces  of  wire  from  the  trellis, 
answer  (veil  ;  or  squares  of  garden  netting  fastened  to  the  trellis  by  four 
pieces  of  string  may  be  used.  Make  additional  plantings,  press  the 
soil  around  each  plant,  shading  for  a  couple  of  hours  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  discontinuing  it  when  the  plants  become  established. 
Young  plants  should  be  grown  near  the  glass  in  order  to  keep  them 
sturdy.  Seed  may  be  sown  for  succession  plants. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — The  Vines  started  last  November 
have  the  Grapes  in  the  last  stages  of  swelling,  and  must  be  well 
supplied  with  liquid  manure.  After  the  colouring  is  well  pronounced, 
simple  watering  suffices,  and  of  that  a  moderate  amount  is  better  than 
a  surfeit.  A  citeulaiiou  of  warm,  moderately  Cry  air  conduces  to  the 
flavour  of  the  ft  uit  and  its  colour  and  bloom,  but  the  at  mosphere  must 
not  be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  as  to  invite  red  spider.  The  Grapes 
require  some  little  time  to  mature  after  they  are  apparently  ripe  ;  and 
moderate  ventilation. 
Moisture  without  stagnation  is  essential  to  their  remaining  plump 
and  freBh  until  cut.  White  Frontignan  is  now  beginning  to  colour, 
and  is  not  only  the  earliest  to  ripen  of  all  forced  Grapes,  but  is  the  best 
flavoured. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Those  started  early  in  December 
and  previously  fotced  will  soon  have  the  Graces  stoned,  and  should 
have  liberal  top. dressings  of  feri  ilisers  washed  in,  or  have  them  supplied 
in  liquid  fo>  m,  even  ii  ahernating  with  liquid  manure  from  stable  end 
cowm  use  tanks  or  manure  yard  cesspools,  for  Vines  like  a  change  of 
food;  besides,  there  is  not  everything  they  require  in  sufficiently 
available  foim  in  such  liquid.  A  light  mulching  of  lumpy,  partially 
decayed  manure  may  be  placed  on  the  border,  especially  where 
the  soil  is  light,  though  it  often  does  good  where  the  soil  is  stiff  by 
preventing  otacking,  as  the  Giapes  swell  considerably  in  the  later 
stages,  even  after  commencing  colouring.  Allow  a  little  lateral 
extension,  as  every  leaf  has  its  corresponding  root  formation,  and 
that  Itaf  fully  exposed  to  light  and  air  helps  the  Grapes  in  swelling 
and  col  outing. 
The  Vines  not  forced  before,  or  started  later,  will  be  stoning,  this 
taking  place  after  the  first  swelling  after  the  thinning,  and  is  perhaps 
the  most  importaut  as  regards  ultimate  size  in  the  berries.  During  the 
stoning  a  steady  state  of  aff  firs  is  best,  giving  phosphates,  potash,  and 
moderate  nitrogen  or  ammonia,  either  in  liquid  form  or  as  top-dressings, 
these  encouraging  surface  roots  more  than  liquid  applications. 
Ventilation  needs  to  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  “rust”  comes 
on  Grapes  and  leaves  by  sudden  depressions  of  temperature  and  cold 
drying  currents  of  air.  When  sharp  north-east  winds  and  bright 
gleams  of  sun  prevail,  the  temperatuie  is  subject  to  sudden  alternations, 
which  must  be  avoided  by  admitting  air  in  small  quantities  at  a  time, 
always  previous  to  rather  than  after  a  great  rise  of  temperature,  taking 
care  to  allow  a  good  advance  from  sun  heat  after  closing  early  in  the 
afternoou  at  80°  to  85°,  thus  with  90'  a  long  day’s  work  will  be  secured, 
allowing  the  heat  to  fall  to  65°  at  night,  or  even  60°  when  cold.  Vines 
started  at  the  new  year  are  not  good  in  all  places.  Some  Vines  have 
bunches  that  twist,  twirl,  and  grow  in  anything  but  the  right  direction, 
while  some  are  blind.  This  is  a  consequence  that  may  arise  from  want 
of  more  time;  any  way,  similar  Vines  started,  or  rather  starring  of 
their  own  accord,  in  March  or  April  do  nothing  of  the  kind.  Nothing 
can  be  done  now,  as  a  bunoh  bent  on  becoming  a  tendril  will  do  so  in 
spite  of  all  restraints  ;  but  all  might  have  been  avoided  if  the  wood  had 
been  ripened  earlier,  or  even  had  the  Vines  been  given  more  time. 
Avoid  the  close  stopping  system  in  such  cases,  yet  do  not  allow  more 
growths  than  can  have  room  for  development. 
The  Vines  that  are  now  in  flower  should  have  a  rather  drier 
atmosphere  with  a  gentle  circulation  of  air,  and  a  temperature  of 
65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat, 
maintaining  moderate  moisture  by  damping  the  house  two  or  three 
times  a  day  in  bright  weather.  Muscats  should  have  at  least  5°  higher 
temperature,  and  the  flowers  must  be  carefully  fertilised. 
Succession  Houses. — Disbud  and  tie  down  the  growths  as  they 
advance,  stopping  to  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches  where  the  space  is 
limited  ;  but  where  there  is  room,  allow  a  greater  extension  of  the  shoots 
before  stopping.  Remove  the  laterals  from  the  joints  below  the  show 
for  fruit,  except  from  the  two  basal  leaves,  stopping  those  at  the  first 
leaf,  and  to  one  afterwards,  as  produced.  The  1  literals  above  the  fruit 
may  be  allowed  to  make  such  growth  as  can  have  exposure  to  light 
without  crowding,  and  then  be  stopped,  keeping  them  pinched  after¬ 
wards  as  space  permits,  or  to  one  joint  where  there  is  not  room  for 
extension.  Remove  all  superfluous  and  ill-shaped  bunches  of  the  free- 
setting  varieties  as  soon  as  the  most  promising  for  the  crop  can  be 
selected.  Maintain  the  border  in  a  proper  state  of  moisture,  and  secure 
a  genial  atmosphere  by  damping  the  house  well  at  closing  time,  as  well 
as  in  the  morning  and  evening.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65  1  at  night 
is  suitable  after  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  allowing  65°  to  70°  in  dull 
days,  and  75°  to  85°  with  sun  and  ventilation,  taking  care  to  avoid  cold 
draughts  and  to  o  ose  early. 
Late  Houses. — Vines  intended  to  ripen  the  fruit  in  August  must  now 
be  started,  and  Muscats,  with  other  late  varieties,  should  be  enc  uraged 
to  move,  as  the  fruit  keeps  much  better  when  ripened  in  late  August  or 
early  in  September  than  when  the  season  is  more  advanced  at  the 
ripening  periods.  Inside  borders  need  water  to  bring  them  into  a 
properly  moist  condition,  but  avoid  making  the  soil  very  wet.  The 
atmosphere  must  be  kept  genial,  damping  the  rods  and  floors  two  or 
three  times  a  day,  maiutaiuir  g  a  temperatuie  of  50°  at  night,  or  55° 
when  mild,  and  65°  by  day  with  sun.  Late  Hamburghs  may  be  kept 
cool,  not  starting  the  Vines  until  April,  when  they  will  start  naturally. 
It  will  suffice  if  they  have  the  fruit  set  by  early  June  and  the  Grapes 
are  ripe  in  September. 
Vine  Eyes. — Those  inserted  last  month  will  now  be  well  rooted,  and 
should  be  potted  singly.  Insert  in  small  pots,  shift  into  5  or  6-inch 
as  soon  as  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  smaller,  placing  them  in 
bottom  heat,  or  preferably  on  shelves  over  the  hot- water  pines. 
Syringe  moderafely  amongst  them,  pinching  the  laterals  at  the  first 
leaf,  and  if  intended  for  planting  out  this  season,  do  so  before  the  roots 
become  matted. 
Cut-back  Vines. — For  fruiting  in  pots  next  season  these  Vines  will 
not  be  fit  for  shaking  out  and  repotting,  or  if  that  has  already  been 
done,  and  the  roots  have  reached  the  sides  of  the  pots,  they  will  need 
shifting  in  the  fruiting  (12-inch)  pots  After  potting  place  along  the 
sides  of  the  house  over  the  hot- water  pipes,  in  preference  to  a  cool 
bottom,  keeping  the  house  close  and  moderafely  moist  until  they  become 
established.  Train  the  canes  near  the  glass,  pinching  the  laterals  to 
one  leaf,  aud  thus  secure  solidified  growth  and  plump  buds.  Use  dean 
pots  and  thorough  drainage.  Turfy  loam,  with  a  fif  h  of  old  mortar 
rubbish,  answers  well  for  potting  ;  but  a  pint  of  dissolved  bones  (quite 
mellow),  the  same  amount  of  soot,  and  a  qu^rt  of  wood  ashes  to 
2  bushels  of  the  loam,  make  a  deal  of  difference,  failing  which,  use 
advertised  fertilisers. 
He  Kitchen  Garden. 
Potatoes. — Earlv  Potatoes,  including  the  Ashleaf  varieties,  Ring¬ 
leader,  Sharpe’s  Victor,  Early  Puritan,  and  Nitiety-f  dd,  should  be 
planted  now  on  a  warm  border.  If,  however,  the  sets  are  sprouted 
first,  the  planting  may  well  be  deferred  until  next  month,  iu  the  mean¬ 
time  keeping  the  tubers  eye  end  upwards  in  shallow  boxes  fully  exposed 
ro  light.  Rub  off  all  shoots  but  the  principal  one.  The  best  place  for 
them  is  a  cool  house  or  shed,  maintaining  them  hardy,  but  preserving 
from  frost.  The  midseason  and  late  varieties  m  iy  be  planted  as 
opportunity  offers  and  the  surface  soil  works  well.  Some  of  tne  leading 
varie  ies  which  prove  good  croppers  and  of  excellent  quality  are  Beauty 
of  Hebron,  Windsor  Castle,  Reading  Husser,  Schoolmaster,  Satisfaction, 
Sutton’s  Reliance,  Up- to. Dale,  Main  Crop,  anrt  Magnum  B  mum.  The 
ground  should  previously  be  well  cultivated  by  deep  digui  >g,  adding 
manure  if  necessary,  and  well  working  into  the  soil.  Tne  drills  for 
planting  should  be  drawn  6  inches  deep.  The  distance  between  them 
must  vary  according  as  to  whether  the  variety  is  short  topped  or  s  rong 
growing.  The  early  varieties  are  usually  the  former,  and  may  be 
planted  in  rows  2  feet  asunder,  Sutton’s  Reliance  and  Magnum 
Bonum  are  usually  very  strong  growers,  aud  not  hing  is  lost  by  giving 
them  3  feet  between  the  rows.  Place  the  tubers  iu  the  drills  a  foot 
