March  21,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
249 
Societies. 
Beckenham  Horticultural  Society. 
On  Friday  last  Mr.  J.  Randall,  of  Brook  Nursery,  gave  to  a  good 
attendance  of  members  a  lecture  on  “  Easy  Methods  of  Cultivating  the 
Chrysanthemum  and  the  Indian  Azalea.”  He  remarked  that  he  did  not 
essay  to  teach  those  that  were  versed  in  the  art  of  growirg  those  beau¬ 
tiful  blooms  for  exhibition,  but  rather  those  that  wished  to  grow  cut 
flowers  in  quantity  with  a  minimum  of  labour.  All  varieties  were  not 
amenable  to  the  treatment  advocated,  and  which  the  lecturer  had  proved 
to  be  profitable,  but  such  as  W.  H.  Lincoln,  Souvenir  de  Petite  Ami,  &c. 
He  then  gave  directions  for  their  culture  and  also  for  that  of  the  Azalea 
indica.  In  addition  to  the  two  items  dealt  with,  the  lecturer  gave  good 
practical  advice  upon  the  culture  of  the  Tuberose,  which  was  highly 
appreciated. 
National  Amateur  Gardeners  (Liverpool  Branch). 
The  first  meeting  of  the  session  was  held  in  the  Common  Hall, 
Hackin’s  Hey,  on  March  7  h.  Mr.  W.  Muir  occupied  the  chair,  and 
there  was  a  capital  attendance.  The  president  signified  bis  intention 
of  giving  monthly  prizes  for  the  best  collection  of  cut  flowers  and  the 
best  plant  in  bloom.  The  presentation  of  medals  and  certificates 
was  proceeded  with.  Miss  Hunter  and  Mrs.  McGregor  being  the 
recipients  of  two  each,  silver  and  bronze.  A  capital  syllabus  has  been 
prepared,  the  president  remarking  that  the  list  of  lecturers  was  of  a 
high  older.  In  the  ante-ro<  m  the  exhibits  bad  been  tastefully  arranged, 
Mrs.  Stevenson  winning  the  Hyacinth  and  Tulip  classes,  Mrs  McGregor 
for  spring  flowering  bulbs,  Mr.  Dale  for  a  plant  in  bloom  (a  grand 
Cyclamen),  and  Mr.  Arthur  Dodd  for  cut  flowers.  The  latter — a  new 
beginner — exhibited  fine  cut  Orchid  blooms,  and  Mrs.  Stevenson  mis¬ 
cellaneous  plants  for  points. 
Birmingham  Gardeners’  Association. 
At  the  society’s  last  meeting  Mr.  R.  C.  Bick,  gardener  to  Walter 
Cbambeilain,  Esq.,  Harborne  Hall,  Harborne,  gave  a  very  interesting 
exposition  of  lantern-slide  pictures  of  photographs  taken  by  himself  of 
sevetal  garden  landscape  views  of  the  pleasure  grounds  under  his 
charge,  and  including  a  few  of  the  fine  old  arboreal  features  of 
Hai  borne  parish  churchyard,  an  especial  one  being  a  tall  and  fine  old 
Horse  Chestnut  clad  with  a  mantle  of  fleecy  snow  on  the  4th  of 
February  last.  Views  also  of  the  lych  gates  (of  which  there  are 
three)  in  association  of  the  avenues  and  other  tree  scenery,  also  evoked 
expressions  of  admiration,  as  did  also  views  of  several  celebrated 
castles  and  picturesque  old  gaidens,  such  as  the  topiary  work  at 
Elvaston  CasGe.  The  subject  for  the  next  fortnightly  meeting  is  “  The 
Gaidens  of  the  Riviera,”  with  lantern-slide  scenes,  by  Mr.  H.  Thomap, 
assistant  editor  to  “The  Garden,”  when  a  competitive  exhibition  of 
salading  in  competition  will  be  held. 
Bristol  and  District  Gardeners’  Mutual  Improvement  Association. 
The  fortnigh  ly  meeting  of  this  society  was  held  on  the  14th  inst., 
at  St.  John’s  Parish  Room,  Redland,  Mr.  G.  Brook  presiding.  'I  he 
lecture  for  the  evening  was  on  the  “  Fuchsia,”  and  was  given  by  Mr. 
J.  Julian  of  Caidiff,  and  hon.  secretary  of  the  Cardiff  Gardeners’ 
Association.  Claming  for  Fuchsias  at  the  outset  an  elegance  that 
marked  them  out  for  decoration,  he  gave  a  short  history  of  their  intro¬ 
duction  into  this  country  about  1788.  He  gave  details  of  the  cultivation 
from  the  time  of  putting  in  cuttings  until  the  specimens  reached  a  height 
of  6  feet  and  a  diameter  in  proportion.  The  best  time  for  propagating 
he  gave  as  February,  the  cuttings,  when  rooted,  to  be  continually 
repotted,  until  pots  16  inches  in  diameter  were  reached.  The  compost 
he  recommended  was  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  manure,  with  an  addition 
of  silver  sand.  He  also  gave  instructions  as  to  pinching,  draining,  feeding, 
the  kind  of  structure  best  suited  to  the  culture  of  Fuchsias,  and  the 
method  of  dealing  with  insect  pests.  Mr.  Julian’s  lecture  was  much 
appreciated,  and  he  was  heartily  thanked,  on  the  motion  of  the  chairman. 
Reading  and  Distiict  Gardeners’  Mutual  Improvement  Association. 
The  last  meeting  of  this  association  was  well  attended,  Mr.  T.  Neve, 
chairman,  presiding.  The  subject  was  “  Peach  and  Nectarine  Culture  : 
New  and  Old  Methods  Contrasted.”  This  was  introduced  in  a  very 
practical  and  racy  manner  by  Mr.  W.  Iggulden  of  Frome,  the  following 
being  a  few  of  the  points  raised  : — Styles  of  Houses :  Lean-to,  three- 
quarter  span,  and  span-roofed  ;  advantages  and  disadvantages  in  each. 
Preference  given  to  rather  high  span-roofed  houses  with  either  single 
or  double  cross  trellises,  planting  trees  back  to  back  in  the  latter 
instance.  Borders. —  Where  natural  conditions  are  unfavourable,  exca¬ 
vations  and  completely  drained  and  re-made  borders  are  necessary,  but 
market  growers  have  the  advantage  in  this  respect,  in  that  they  select 
positions  that  only  require  trenching  and  slight  additions  made  to  the 
ordinary  soil.  Trees,  Maidens  v.  Trained. — The  advantages  being  all  in 
favour  of  the  foimer.  Maidens  are  the  quickest  to  attain  to  a  heavily 
productive  state,  and  develop  into  the  finest  as  well  as  most  lasting 
trees.  Lecturer  mentioned  having  planted  a  number  of  maidens  under 
glass  in  March,  1899 ;  fifteen  months  later  each  were  being  cleared  of 
from  two  dozen  to  four  dozen  first-sized  fruit,  fetching  the  highest 
market  prices.  An  interesting  discussion  followed,  members  pointing 
out  that  there  was  a  great  difference  between  the  market  gardener  and 
private  grower,  and  therefore  the  culture  must  be  different. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Protecting  Outdoor  Peaches  and  Nectarines. — When  the  blooms  are 
about  to  expand  some  temporary  protection  is  needed  during  the 
prevalence  of  unfavourable  weather.  Cold,  dry  weather,  without  frost, 
is  not  altogether  unfavourable,  but  rather  wet,  and  storm,  and  frost  is 
the  sort  of  weather  which  damages  fully  opened  blooms.  If  the  flowers 
are  open  on  outdoor  walls  during  such  a  period,  it  is  because  warmth  and 
sunshine  have  preceded  and  induced  the  flowers  to  swell  and  open. 
Some  slight  protection  should  therefore  be  given  du-ing  this  most 
critical  time.  It  is  as  well  to  fix  protecting  material  early  and  use  it 
for  the  purpose  of  retarding  the  blooms,  that  is  to  say,  when  warm 
sunny  mornings  prevail  the  blinds  might  be  drawn  down  to  prevent  the 
warmth  acting  upon  the  wall  and  trees.  This  has  the  effect  of  oausing 
the  flowers  to  develop  later,  when  the  climatio  influences  are  more 
likely  to  continue  favourable  and  not  suddenly  change.  If  the 
conveniences  exist  for  setting  up  blinds,  or  they  can  be  readily  and 
temporarily  fixed,  this  should  always  be  done,  so  as  to  be  able  to  meet 
sudden  emergencies,  the  time  when  protection  is  most  needed. 
Copings  and  Curtains. — Walls  of  choice  and  valuable  Apricot,  Peach, 
and  Nectarine  trees  ought  always  to  be  furnished  with  a  coping  which 
can  be  readily  fixed  and  taken  down.  The  main  object  of  a  coping  is  to 
provide  something  to  which  blinds  or  curtains  may  be  attached  and  held 
clear  of  the  trees  either  when  or  when  not  in  use.  The  best  material 
for  protection  is  woollen  netting.  Other  suitable  material,  however, 
consists  of  tiffany,  frigi  domo,  and  Hessian.  Canvas  is  sometimes  used, 
but  it  is  too  dense  in  texture,  and  difficult  to  manipulate  in  drawing  up 
and  down.  An  iron  rod  should  run  along  the  front  of  the  coping,  but 
clear  of  the  edge.  Place  on  before  fixing  a  sufficient  number  of  brass 
rings,  and  attach  these  to  the  upper  edge  of  blinds.  Iron  rods,  too, 
may  be  attached  at  the  bottom  of  the  material  at  about  2  feet  from  the 
ground  and  fixed  to  uprights.  When  not  wanted  the  curtains  may  be 
drawn  on  one  side. 
Poles  and  Netting. — Another  efficient  arrangement  is  poles  of  stout 
wood  laid  against  the  wall,  standing  out  2  feet  at  the  bottom,  sinking 
their  brse  a  little  way  in  the  soil.  A  double  or  treble  thickness  of  fish 
netting  may  then  be  laid  across,  and  allowed  to  remain  permanently 
until  protecting  material  is  no  longer  needed.  Poles  may  not  be  needed 
if  the  netting  will  hang  clear  of  the  blossoms.  The  poles  will  also  carry* 
other  material  than  nets,  but  it  will  be  desirable  to  remove  it  when  not 
actually  needed  to  protect. 
Planting  Fruit  Trees. — Although  late  in  the  season  for  planting,  the 
weather  may  be  more  congenial  and  the  soil  in  a  better  state  than  it  has 
been  for  some  time.  It  is  better  to  wait  for  suitable  conditions  than  to 
plant  in  wet  and  sticky  soil.  It  is  assumed  tnat  for  spring  planting  the 
soil  has  been  prepared  for  some  time,  and  has  had  the  benefit  of  frost, 
snow,  rain,  and,  finally,  drying  winds,  to  pulverise  and  ameliorate  the 
surface.  Under  these  circumstances  the  ground  is  sufficiently  con¬ 
solidated,  and  it  only  remains  to  excavate  the  holes  and  plant.  Should 
the  ground  need  pre  aring  first,  then  bastard  trench  it,  and  if  light 
consolidate  it  by  treading  before  rain  falls  upon  it.  Shallow  wide  holes 
should  be  taken  out  at  the  proper  distance  apart,  according  to  the  class 
of  tree  to  be  planted.  The  trees  must  have  special  attention, 
endeavouring  to  prevent  the  roots  drying  by  exposure.  This  can  be 
done  by  keeping  them  covered  with  soil.  Previous  to  planting,  prune 
away  the  broken  and  jagged  ends  to  clean  and  healthy  parts,  so  that 
when  growth  begins  the  free  production  of  fibres  is  encouraged. 
Spread  out  the  roots  to  their  full  extent  when  planting  the  trees,  and 
cover  with  soil  from  the  stem  outwards,  burying  the  upper  roots  about 
3  inches.  Stake  the  trees  firmly,  and  mulch  over  the  roots  with  littery 
manure. 
Pruning  Newly  Planted  Fruit  Trees. — Trees  or  bushes  recently 
planted,  either  in  autumn  or  spring,  should  as  a  rule  be  pruned  rather 
closely  back,  just  when  growth  is  commencing.  This  is  more  especially 
the  case  when  roots  were  few,  because  with  weak  root  power  it  ia 
evident  growth  will  be  weakly  if  the  vigour  the  tree  possesses  has  to  be 
spread  over  a  long  length  of  wood.  Young  trees  especially  require  to 
make  new  growth  of  a  vigorous  character,  and  such  as  will  form  a 
substantial  foundation  of  branches,  therefore  cut  back  to  firm  parts 
with  bold  wood  buds  pointing  in  the  direction  the  growths  are  wanted 
to  extend. 
Planting  Strawberries. — Strawberry  plants  wintered  in  nursery 
beds  may  now  be  lifted  and  planted  peimanently  on  ground  deeply 
dug  and  liberally  manured.  These  plants  lift  with  excellent  balls  of 
soil  and  have  numerous  roots,  all  of  which  remain  ati ached  if  the 
roots  are  carefully  lifted.  They  are  readily  moved,  and  become  firmly 
established  in  a  very  short  time.  On  the  contrary,  plants  which  have 
no  soil  attached  to  the  roots  require  careful  treatment.  They  must 
have  the  roots  spread  out  on  small  mounds  of  soil  in  shallow  drills, 
spreading  over  them  light  fine  soil,  and  make  firm,  watering  if  necessary.. 
