270 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  28,  1901. 
Muscats  and  other  shy  setters  should  be  left  until  the  roughly  fertilised 
berries  take  the  lead  in  swelling. 
When  the  Grapes  are  set  afford  top-dressings  of  fertilisers,  striving 
to  get  a  good  swelling  in  the  berries  during  the  Bhort  time  that  elapBes 
before  stoning  commences.  In  the  case  of  open  borders  a  light  mulching 
of  sweetened  material  is  of  essential  service  in  maintaining  uniform 
moisture.  Admit  air  early  and  liberally  as  the  heat  increases,  striving 
to  secure  stout,  short-jointed  wood,  thick,  leathery  leaves,  and  tough 
elastic  skins  to  the  berries.  Close  early  with  abundance  of  atmospheric 
moisture,  retaining  85°  to  90°  well  on  towards  evening  from  sun  heat, 
and  allow  the  night  temperature  to  fall  to  between  60°  and  65°. 
Succession  Houses. — Disbud  when  the  best  shows  for  fruit  can  be 
discerned,  leaving  only  growths  for  which  there  is  space,  to  allow  the 
foliage  full  exposure  to  light  with  a  margin  for  lateral  development. 
Tie  down  the  shoots  before  their  points  reach  the  glass,  and  pinch  one 
or  two  or  more  joints  beyond  the  fruit  when  the  leaf  at  stopping  point 
is  the  size  of  a  halfpenny.  Stop  the  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and  to 
one  afterwards  as  growth  advances,  or  allow  lateral  extension  where 
there  is  room,  but  only  on  that  condition.  Ventilate  early,  but  avoid 
lowering  the  temperature,  as  this  chills,  and  produces  crumpled  foliage 
and  rust.  If  the  promise  is  good  for  fruit  afford  a  top-dressing  of  an 
advertised  fertiliser,  either  watering  it  in  moderately  or  pointing  in 
lightly,  but  avoid  saturating  the  soil  or  disturbing  the  roots. 
Late  Vineries. — Syringe  Vines  that  have  commenced  growth  two  or 
-three  times  a  day,  not,  however,  keeping  the  rods  constantly  dripping 
with  moisture,  as  this  induces  aerial  roots  instead  of  active  feeders  in 
the  border,  closing  with  a  moist  atmosphere,  in  preference  to  a  wet  rod, 
at  75°.  Employ  fire  heat  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  55°.  Vigorous 
young  Vines  do  not  start  regularly,  therefore  to  prevent  a  rush  of  sap 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  canes  bring  these  down  into  a  horizontal 
position,  or  depressing  the  points  until  all  the  buds  have  started  to  the 
base. 
He  Kitclien  Garden. 
Early  Celery. — Young  plants  from  seed  pans  or  boxes  should  be 
pricked  out  4  inches  apart  on  a  good  bed  of  soil  over  a  mild  hotbed. 
The  gentle  heat  derived  from  the  bed  will  give  the  seedlings  a  start, 
maintaining  the  surface  moist  by  gentle  sprinklings  of  water  every 
sunny  afternoon  when  closing  the  frame ;  shade  at  first  from  bright 
sunshine.  When  established  give  air  daily  so  as  to  keep  the  plants 
sturdy,  and  as  the  weather  becomes  warmer  draw  off  the  lights 
altogether  on  favourable  days;  on  frosty  nights  cover  the  glass  with 
dry  mats.  These  plants  will  be  ready  for  the  trenohes  the  latter  part  of 
May.  This  is  also  a  suitable  time  to  sow  more  seeds  thinly  in  pans  or 
boxes  for  pricking  out  in  beds  in  cold  frames  in  May,  these  plants 
serving  to  furnish  the  late  crops. 
Carrots. — The  main  crop  of  Carrots  may  be  sown  now,  including  such 
varieties  as  Intermediate  and  Long  Eed  Surrey  where  substantial  and 
long  roots  are  requireu.  The  ground  ought  to  have  been  previously 
well  worked  and  dressed,  prior  to  the  sowing  preparations,  with  burnt 
refuse  or  wood  ashes.  Thoroughly  break  down  the  soil,  making  it  fine 
on  the  surface,  and  draw  the  drills  a  foot  apart  to  the  depth  of  an  inch. 
The  seed  being  very  light,  a  calm  day  should  be  selected  for  sowing, 
scattering  the  seed  thinly. 
Onions. — Autumn  sown  Onions  may  now  be  drawn  carefully  out  of 
the  seed  bed  or  lines  where  they  have  stood  all  the  winter,  transplanting 
on  good  ground  8  inches  apart  in  rows  a  foot  asunder.  Do  not  cramp 
the  roots  in  shallow  holes,  but  place  them  straight  down  in  holes  of 
sufficient  depth.  Young  plants  raised  in  boxes  from  seed  ought  now  to 
be  in  process  of  being  hardened  to  outside  conditions,  when  they  can 
also  be  planted  out.  Onion  seed  can  still  be  sown  on  rich  ground  made 
fine  and  firm  on  the  surface. 
Savoys,  Borecole,  Broccoli. — Seed  may  be  sown  in  beds  or  drills  on 
an  open  border.  Sow  thinly,  and  merely  cover  with  soil,  but  fix  nets 
above  the  beds,  or  the  seed  will  quickly  disappear,  birds  having  a  special 
liking  for  it. 
Cucumbers  for  Frames.  —  A  recently  formed  hotbed,  composed  of 
manure  and  leaves  in  equal  quantity  and  thoroughly  mixed,  plaoing 
together  firmly,  is  a  suitable  medium  for  raising  the  necessary  stock  of 
plants  for  growing  in  frames.  When  the  hotbed  haB  been  formed  cover 
with  soil,  which  will  keep  down  any  dangerous  heat.  Fill  3-inch  pots 
with  good  loamy  soil,  quite  moist,  and  bury,  an  inoh  below  the  surface, 
one  seed  in  each  pot ;  give  no  water,  and  plunge  in  the  soil  in  the 
hotbed.  Keep  the  frame  close,  shading  if  strong  sunshine  is  prevalent, 
and  in  a  few  days  the  seed  will  have  germinated.  Allow  a  little  fresh 
air  daily  to  assist  in  strengthening  the  seedlings.  When  the  pots  are 
becoming  full  of  roots  plant  out  on  mounds  of  rich  soil,  one  under  each 
light,  after  which  rapid  growth  will  be  made. 
Potatoes.— Plant  midseason  and  late  Potatoes  freely;  the  general 
distance  between  the  rows  may  be  2  feet  to  2  feet  6  inches.  It  is 
better  to  draw  drills  6  inches  deep  than  to  plant  with  the  dibber, 
especially  where  the  soil  may  be  stiff  or  heavy.  In  the  latter  case 
spread  some  burnt  refuse  and  wood  ashes  along  the  rows  before 
arranging  the  tubers,  which  should  be  of  medium  size,  placing  them 
a  foot  or  15  inches  apart  according  to  the  variety.  The  strong-haulmed 
varieties  may. even  need  more  room ‘every  way,  and  it  is  an  advantage 
to  give  it  them,  as  a  rule. 
Tomatoes. — Where  a  warm  house  is  available,  and  plants  are  ready, 
place  them  out  in  shallow  troughs,  borders,  or  pots.  They  must  have 
a  light  position  in  addition  to  the  warmth,  so  that  the  advance  they 
make  may  be  of  a  sturdy  character.  At  first  as  little  soil  as  possible 
may  be  given  them ;  to  encourage  a  strong  early  growth  may  prevent 
the  flowering  should  the  growth  be  sappy.  If  made  in  abundance  of 
light,  this,  however,  will  make  a  great  difference.  As  the  stems  extend 
rub  out  the  side  shoots  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  For  May  planting 
and  final  potting  more  young  stock  should  be  shifted  on  into  4  or  5-inch 
pots.  Seedlings,  when  strong  enough,  must  have  their  first  trans¬ 
planting,  sinking  the  stems  to  the  seed  leaves.  When  potting  or 
planting  finally  compress  the  soil  well  about  the  roots. 
- - 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  EDITOR,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  I*leet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Sediment  from  Washings  of  Sheep  Wool  as  Manure  (F.  W.). — The 
article  you  sent  appears  “  soaper’s  ashes  ”  compressed  in  cake.  It 
consists  largely  of  carbonaceous  matter,  and  also  contains  potash  and 
other  saline  substances.  If  it  were  broken  up  small  it  would  probably 
be  useful  as  manure,  applying  3^  lbs.  per  rod,  and  pointing  in  lightly. 
We  should  first  use  it  experimentally  for  ordinary  vegetable  crops,  and 
on  a  relatively  small  scale,  before  having  recourse  to  its  use  as  a  general 
fertiliser,  as  a  similar  material  that  was  applied,  perhaps  too  liberally, 
to  kitohen  garden  ground  had  bad  effects ;  indeed  the  article  seems 
more  fitted  for  fuel  than  manure,  as  it  burns  freely,  and  has  a  greasy 
“  feel,”  though  this  may  have  been  neutralised,  otherwise  greasy 
substances  have  a  prejudicial  effect  on  soils  for  some  time  after 
application. 
Shamrock  (J.  D.  B.). —  The  identity  of  a  “true”  Shamrock  will 
never  be  unanimously  agreed  to.  What  is  said  to  have  been  the  true 
Shamrock  was  sent  to  the  late  Queen  Victoria  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  St.  Patrick’s  grave  at  Downpatrick  some  years  ago.  What  Trefoil 
was  sent  we  cannot  tell,  for  it  seems  the  plants  were  not  subjected  for 
botanical  opinion.  Irishmen  themselves  are  not  agreed  about  the 
Shamrock,  for  we  have  had  the  White  Clover  (Trifolium  repens)  from 
Cork,  and  the  Black  Medick  (Medicago  lupulina)  from  Dublin,  and 
both  were  asserted  to  be  “  true  Shamrock.”  The  sprig  that  you  send 
is  Trifolium  repens ;  and  all  we  can  say  is,  that  a  very  large  number  of 
people  call  this  the  true  Irish  emblem.  The  Oxalis  (0.  acetosella)  and 
Trifolium  minus  also  find  a  great  many  adherents.  Most  of  the  varieties 
of  dwarf  Clovers  are  at  times  called  Shamrock.  The  Sister  Isle,  how¬ 
ever,  has  no  monopoly  of  any  species  of  Trefoil. 
StreptocarpuB  Leaves  Rusted  (£T.). — The  leaves  are  what  is  known 
as  affected  by  “  rust,”  and  at  one  time  attributed  to  fungoid  infection, 
else  attributed  to  various  cultural  defects.  Reoent  investigations, 
however,  have  shown  that  the  rust  is  caused  by  a  member  of  the  mite 
family,  not  unlike  a  thrips  in  appearance,  and  named  Tarsonymus 
gerani,  or  even  T.  gloxini,  simply  because  it  affects  Geraniums  outdoors, 
Pelargoniums,  especially  Ivy-leaved  varieties,  under  glass,  and  is  very 
destructive  to  Gesneras  and  Gloxinias,  also  Begonias,  particularly 
tuberous-rooted.  It  does  not  appear  different  from  Tarsonymus  buxi, 
which  affects  Box  leaves.  It  is  very  pernicious,  the  punctures  of  the 
pest,  and  the  poisonous  nature  of  its  secretions,  with  the  sub-cutaneous 
nature  of  young  mites,  causing  the  leaves  to  become  brown,  crippled, 
and  even  dried  up.  The  creature  is  rather  difficult  to  eradicate,  and  is 
best  overcome  by  spraying  repeatedly  and  consecutively,  at  intervals  of 
about  a  week  or  ten  days,  with  tobaoco  water,  that  called  “  London 
juice  ”  being  diluted  with  ten  to  twelve  times  its  bulk  of  water,  or  the 
nicotine  compound  used  for  vapourising  with  about  fifty  parts  of  water. 
The  spray  should  be  used  so  as  to  reach  both  sides  of  the  leaves,  which 
is  a  difficult  matter  in  the  case  of  Gloxinias  and  Streptooarpus,  henee 
frequent  fumigation  with  tobacco  paper,  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine 
compound.  Where  practical,  sponging  the  leaves  carefully  with 
tobacco  water  is  the  most  effective  deterrent  and  remedy.  This 
procedure  requires  to  be  persisted  in  to  effect  a  complete  riddanee. 
In  bad  cases  it  is  well  to  remove  the  affected  leaves,  and  even  destroy 
seriously  infested  plants,  and  this  has  been  found  in  some  cases  the  only 
effectual  remedy.  Taken  in  time,  and  recourse  had  to  tobacco  water  as 
a  preventive,'  the  removal  of  affected  leaves  is,  perhaps,  the  best  means 
of  riddance,  abd  of  having  healthy  plants. 
