276 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  4,  1901. 
The  Pruning  of  Hardy  Trees  and  Shrubs. 
(Continued  from  page  219.) 
Pruning  of  Trees  in  Woods,  &c. 
Although  trees  belonging  to  this  division  play  such  an  important 
part  in  the  general  health,  prosperity,  and  beauty  of  the  country,  they 
are  as  a  rule  sadly  neglected.  Because  they  are  hardy  and  seen  on  every 
hand  it  is  often  considered  that  no  attention  need  be  paid  them.  On 
careful  examination,  however,  it  will  be  found  that  the  pruning  of 
forest  trees  is  quite  as  important  as  the  pruning  of  fruit  trees.  In 
woods  and  forests  where  trees  are  planted  thickly,  a  kind  of  natural 
pruning  takes  place.  Each  tree  tries  to  get  the  most  light,  and  in  the 
struggle  is  forced  rapidly  upwards,  the  lower  branches  not  having 
room  to  develop.  This,  with  the  help  of  judicious  thinning,  and  the 
removal  of  dead  wood,  makes  very  little  other  pruning  necessary. 
When  trees  are  planted  as  isolated  specimens,  however,  this  drawing 
up  does  not  take  place,  and  a  large  quantity  of  branches  develop  at 
the  expense  of  the  trunk.  Iu  such  cases  the  attention  of  the  pruner 
is  essential.  Passing  through  a  wooded  district  where  trees  are  left  to 
themselves  one  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  gnarled  and  stunttd 
appearance  of  many.  Some  are  in  good  health,  and  their  shape  leaves 
little  to  be  desired ;  others,  however,  present  a  miserable  appearance, 
and  are  hardly  worth  the  name  of  trees,  their  trunks  being  covered 
with  wounds,  dead  branches,  and  protuberances  of  various  kinds ; 
others,  again,  are  seen  with  weak  trunks  and  large,  dense  heads, 
reminding  one  more  of  a  neglected  Apple  tree  than  a  forest  tree,  while 
there  is  barely  sufficient  sound  timber  for  an  average-sized  gatepost. 
These  are  evidences  of  neglect,  as  a  little  timely  attention  from  the 
pruner  would  have  helped  them  to  outgrow  such  deformities.  A  good 
specimen  forest  or  ornamental  tree  should  consist  of  a  single,  erect 
trunk,  destitute  of  branches  for  quite  one-third  or  nearly  half  its 
height,  with  an  open,  well-balanced  head  on  a  framework  of  good, 
strong  branches  clothed  with  healthy  foliage.  Modifications  of  this 
standard  have  to  be  made  at  times  when  it  is  deemed  desirable  for 
effect  in  gardens  or  parks  to  have  branches  sweeping  the  ground,  or  in 
a  few  instances  where  the  natural  habit  of  the  tree  does  not  allow  of 
the  trunk  being  cleared,  but  even  in  these  cases  lower  branches  must 
be  kept  in  check,  and  not  allowed  to  develop  at  the  expense  of  the 
trunk. 
Before  leaving  the  nursery  the  foundation  of  the  future  specimen 
should  be  laid.  It  will  be  found  necessary  at  a  very  early  stage  in 
its  life  to  reduce  bottom  branches  to  throw  strength  into  the  trunk, 
but  it  must  be  done  with  care.  If  too  many  branches  are  taken  off  at 
once  the  stem  grows  too  rapidly  and  becomes  spindly.  The  best  plan 
is  to  take  a  few  off  and  shorten  others,  keeping  the  shoots  pinched 
out  as  they  are  made.  Among  young  trees  or  shrubs  much  time  may 
be  saved  in  the  growing  by  keeping  all  superfluous  shoots  pinched  or 
rubbed  off  as  they  appear,  thus  saving  the  plant  from  making  a  lot 
of  wood  which  would  have  to  be  removed  in  a  few  months’  time.  The 
same  system  of  reducing  the  lower  branches  should  be  kept  up  after 
the  plant  has  been  transferred  to  its  permanent  quarters.  Until  a 
tree  nears  maturity  a  good  lead  should  be  kept,  branches  thinned  out 
where  very  thick,  and  the  lower  ones  which  have  to  be  removed 
eventually,  kept  shortened  in.  This  shortening  does  not  allow  the 
branch  to  thicken  very  fast,  consequently  when  it  comes  to  be  sawn 
off  there  is  not  such  a  large  wound  to  heal.  It  also  stops  bottom 
branches  from  outgrowing  the  upper  ones.  The  pruning  of  youug 
trees  to  one  common  standard  is  productive  of  a  somewhat  formal 
appearance,  especially  whilst  the  trees  are  young.  This  formality, 
however,  will  be  outgrown  when  they  have  attained  that  size  at 
which  pruning  can  be  dispensed  with. 
As  to  the  time  of  pruning  it  matters  very  little.  It  is  advisable 
not  to  operate  for  a  few  weeks  when  the  first  flush  of  growth 
commences  in  early  spring',  but  at  other  times — summer,  autumn, 
or  winter — all  are  suitable  seasons.  The  following  passage,  quoted 
from  “Lindley’s  Theory  of  Horticulture,"  bears  upon  some  of  the 
points  mentioned.  He  says :  “  The  only  rule  to  attend  to  is  to  keep 
the  top  tapering,  preserving  the  leading  shoot  clear  and  free  from 
clefts,  and  the  bole  from  all  the  longest  branches,  leaving  only  those 
ot  the  smaller  kind  that  are  requisite  for  the  health  and  support  of 
the  tree,  and  clearing  the  tree  from  the  bottom  of  all  its  branches  as 
it  advances  in  age.  But  the  bole  should  be  cleared  slowly  at  first 
when  the  tree  is  young,  only  keep  the  branches  that  are  left  thereon 
small  by  often  pruning,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  tree  when  it  becomes 
timber.” 
Turning  to  trees  that  have  been  neglected  during  the  early  part  of 
their  lives,  we  find  that  many  may  be  turned  into  good  trees  with  a 
little  patience  by  careful  pruning  ;  and  providing  the  specimen  is 
healthy  and  other  conditions  are  favourable,  surprising  results  can 
often  be  obtained  from  the  roughest  looking  plants.  In  like  manner 
trees  which  have  become  prematurely  old,  trees  that  have  been  broken 
by  wind  or  damaged  by  other  causes,  or  even  old  trees  that  contain  a 
lot  of  dead  wood,  but  are  otherwise  healthy,  may  be  rejuvenated  by 
judicious  pruning.  A  few  instances  mentioned  later  will  serve  to  show 
what  may  be  done  in  a  few  years’  time  with  trees  that  had  been 
neglected.  When  a  neglected  tree  is  taken  in  hand  dead  and  useless 
inside  wood  should  be  removed,  after  which  a  leader  should  be  selected. 
If  there  is  no  natural  lead  a  strong  shoot  as  near  as  possible  to  the 
centre  should  be  tied  up  by  means  of  a  stake  secured  to  the  main  stem, 
and  the  surrounding  branches  shortened  until  it  has  a  clear  lead. 
Afterwards  the  lower  branches  should  be  removed  or  shortened  as  the 
occasion  warrants.  All  wounds  must  be  cut  clean  and  dressed  as 
previously  advised,  the  dressing  of  large  ones  being  repeated  at 
intervals  until  they  have  healed  over,  taking  care  not  to  tar  the  young 
wood  as  it  forms.  Any  rival  leads  that  may  appear  should  be  removed 
at  once,  a  single  central  trunk  being  aimed  at.  Although  very  crooked 
leads  may  oiten  be  straightened,  it  is  sometimes  advisable  in  bad 
cases  to  cut  the  top  clean  out  and  have  a  fresh  start  from  a  strong 
terminal  break.  Deep  wounds  and  decayed  places  should  be  well 
cleaned  and  dressed  as  previously  advised,  and  plugged  up  with  hard 
wood.  This  in  some  instances  will  heal  over,  and  the  life  of  a 
favourite  tree  may  be  prolonged  for  a  considerable  number  of  years. — 
W.  Dallimoke. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
- - - 
Wlp  the  Sun  Shines. 
Throughout  the  dark  days  of  autumn  and  winter,  when  our  land 
is  wranped  in  mist — rest,  decay,  are  the  dominant  features  which 
vegetation  displays  in  British  landscapes  and  gardens  ;  the  heavy 
rains  and  snowstorms  come,  to  perform  their  great  part  in  the 
economy  of  Nature  by  saturating  the  soil  and  filling  the  springs  to 
overflowing.  The  frost  acts  on  the  upturned  soil,  converting  into  ice 
the  tiny  drops  of  water  between  the  minute  particles  of  soil,  and  thus 
forces  the  latter  further  apart ;  the  thaw  comes,  shrinkage  takes 
place,  and  the  air  rushes  in  to  fill  up  the  vacuum,  as  well  as  to  still 
further  sweeten  and  enrich  the  soil.  Happy  is  the  man  who  has 
thrown  up  his  heavy  soil  roughly  in  early  winter,  for  during  the 
first  few  drying  days  still  further  shrinkage  t  kes  place,  and  the 
stubborn  earth  crumbles  to  powder  because  of  the  continual  expansion 
and  contraction,  set  in  motion  by  natural  laws. 
The  moist,  cold  weather  sometimes  continues  through  winter  till 
early  spring;  and  how  ofien  goes  up  the  cry  that  the  “season  is 
late.”  We  are  eager  to  sow,  to  plant,  to  press  onward  with  work 
which  shall  bring  the  reward  at  harvest  time.  Eagerness  is 
undoubtedly  a  good  trait  of  character  for  any  gardener  to  possess,  and 
some  crops  must  of  necessity  be  grown  or  planted  comparatively 
early  in  the  season  ;  but  in  regard  to  many,  how  great  in  importance 
is  that  golden  motto,  “  Wait  till  the  sun  shines.” 
Choose  a  warm  day  for  sowing  seeds  in  early  spring,  is  a  sound 
practice  which  cannot  be  too  stron  gv  advocated.  The  loosened  soil  is 
then  quickly  warmed  up  by  the  sunshine,  and  the  seed  committed  to 
the  earth  under  congenial  conditions,  for  we  should  never  forget  that 
“  warmth,”  as  well  as  air  and  moisture,  is  absolutely  essential  to 
successful  germination,  and  the  soil  which  is  stirred  “  while  the  sun 
shines”  is  quickly  warmed  and  sweetened,  and  thus  supplied  with  two 
of  the  three  essential  elements.  Seeds  sown  under  such  conditions 
soon  germinate,  and  the  young  plants  make  rapid  progress.  A  little 
extra  attention  in  regard  to  stirring  the  soil  at  seed  time  is  always 
well  repaid,  and  many  time-honoured  practices  are  sound,  because 
they  rest  on  the  sure  foundation  of  scientific  tact,  though  they  may 
have  been  first  carried  out  by  gardeners  of  long  ago  who  laid  no  claim 
to  the  possession  of  scientific  knowledge.  Close  observation  had, 
*  however,  taught  them  certain  facts  which  proved  them  to  be 
scientists  in  reality,  if  not  in  name.  For  instance,  what  can  be 
sounder  than  the  following  plan,  which  was  practised  by  gardeners 
generations  ago  ?  Some  fine  promising  morning  in  early  spring,  when 
it  was  desirable  to  sow  seeds  of  various  descriptions,  the  surface  of  the 
seed  bed  was  loosened  with  the  hoe;  in  a  few  hours  the  loosened  soil 
was  dry  and  warm,  drills  were  then  drawn  and  left  for  a  time 
undisturbed.  Under  the  influence  of  bright  sunshine  a  dry  crumbling 
surface  of  warmed  soil  was  obtained,  and  seeds  sown  under  such 
conditions  made  splendid  progress,  because  warmth  and  air  were 
allowed  to  play  their  important  parts.  Moisture  is  seldom  lacking  in 
early  spring. 
Again,  who  can  correctly  estimate  the  value  of  hoeing  frequently 
between  growing  crops  in  spring  “  when  the  sun  shines  ?  ”  We  know 
that  crops  so  treated  grow  apace,  and  soon  outstrip  other  crops  which 
are  neglected  in  that  respect.  There  is  much  land  under  cultivation 
in  Britain  to-day  which  would  undoubtedly  be  far  more  productive 
than  it  is  if  it  received  more  constant  attention  in  regard  to  stirring 
