April  4,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
291 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Outdoor  Figs. — Planting. — The  Fig  succeeds  well  when  planted 
against  a  warm  sunny  wall  or  gable  end,  and  the  branches  are  trained 
thinly.  The  soil  which  suits  Figs  best  is  a  calcareous  loam  on  a 
subsoil  of  chalk.  A  subsoil  of  this  character  insures  good  drainage, 
which  is  very  essential,  as  stagnant  moisture  caused  by  an  ill-drained' 
situation  induces  a  strong  sappy  growth  which  is  certain  to  be  of  an 
unfruitful  character.  In  addition  to  the  right  texture  and  ample 
drainage  of  the  site  chosen  for  planting,  the  soil  should  be  made  very 
firm,  as  this  will  encourage  short-jointed  wood  to  be  made,  which  is 
readily  ripened.  To  a  soil  otherwise  suitable  as  regards  fertility  and 
friability,  but  not  containing  calcareous  matter,  add  lime  rubbish. 
Manure  must  not  be  added  to  the  soil  at  planting  time,  but  a  mulch 
in  summer  may  be  afforded  over  the  roots.  A  border  restricted  to 
6  feet  in  width  will  be  ample  for  Fig  trees. 
The  present  is  a  suitable  time  to  plant,  selecting  maiden  trees  with 
one  stem.  After  taking  out  a  wide  shallow  hole  make  the  base  firm, 
and  on  it  spread  out  the  roots,  which  should  be  carefully  pruned,  so 
that  no  broken  or  injured  ends  are  retained.  Work  the  soil  among 
them,  but  see  that  the  ends  are  not  turned  up  but  kept  in  position 
at  full  length.  This  is  readily  managed  if  the  material  is  spread  over 
them  from  the  stem  outwards.  Make  firm  as  the  work  proceeds,  and 
fjnally  when  finished.  The  stem  of  a  maiden  tree  may,  after  planting, 
be  shortened  to  15  inches.  On  breaking  into  growth  select  a  well 
placed  shoot  on  each  side,  and  train  at  full  length,  encouraging  a  strong 
and  free  growth.  The  following  season  shorten  these  shoots,  and 
train  from  each  two  others  at  equal  distances  to  form  main  branches 
from  which  successional  bearing  shoots  may  be  trained  at  full  length. 
These,  after  fruiting,  can  be  cut  back,  so  that  each  season  a  new  growth 
is  made  for  fruiting  the  next. 
Pruning  Old  Trees. — The  main  object  is  so  to  thin  out  the  shoots 
and  branches  that  no  crowding  is  apparent  when  the  trees  come  into 
leaf.  First  cut  out  the  old  and  weakly  growths,  retaining  only  the  best 
placed  and  short-jointed  shoots,  which  lay  in  at  full  length,  the  fruit 
being  borne  at  the  extremities  of  all  such  well  ripened  growths.  In 
positions  where  it  is  desired  a  new  growth  should  be  originated,  leave 
a  bud  at  the  base  of  the  growth  removed.  In  other  cases  cut  it  out 
entirely,  which  will  prevent  the  tree  being  filled  with  superfluous 
growth.  Much  may  be  done  by  disbudding  when  the  buds  start,  to 
limit  and  regulate  the  number  of  growths.  Adequate  space  and 
abundant  light  and  air  are  necessary  for  each  shoot,  to  insure  a  well 
ripened  condition  by  the  end  of  thegVowing  season. 
Strawberries. — Mulching. — The  spring  mulching  of  manure  may  now 
be  placed  between  the  rows  of  old  plants.  First  go  over  the  beds  and 
fork  out  any  perennial  weeds,  and  slightly  point  over  with  a  fork  the 
space  between  the  rows  not  oocupied  with  roots.  If,  however,  there  is 
any  difficulty  in  effecting  this  without  destroying  fibrous  roots  it  is 
better  to  allow  the  ground  to  remain  undisturbed,  and  apply  the 
mulching.  In  any  case  the  latter  may  consist  of  rioh  manure,  long  and 
short  combined.  Previous  to  mulching  sprinkle  round  the  plants  a 
peck  of  soot  to  the  rod.  Guano,  1  oz.  to  the  square  yard,  may  be  used 
instead,  while  to  plantations  that  need  some  quick  incentive  to  growth  an 
application  of  nitrate  of  soda,  |  oz.  to  the  square  yard,  affords  good 
results.  Recently  established  beds,  whether  planted  in  autumn  or 
spring,  should  not  at  present  receive  a  mulching  of  manure.  They  will 
derive  more  good  from  frequent  boeings  to  kill  weeds  and  promote 
growth.  The  autumn  established  beds  may  be  allowed  to  flower  this 
season,  but  spring  beds  are  soarcely  in  a  condition  to  fruit  this  season, 
hence  when  the  flowers  appear  on  the  plants  remove  them,  and 
encourage  a  good  growth  to  build  up  bold  orowns  for  the  next  season. 
Grafting  Fruit  Trees. — The  cold  weather  during  March  has  kept 
fruit  trees  from  commencing  growth,  hence  the  time  when  the  operation 
of  grafting  should  be  carried  out  is  later  than  usual.  Immediately, 
however,  the  sap  begins  to  rise  and  the  buds  to  push,  the  stocks  may  be 
prepared  in  readiness  to  receive  the  scions. 
The  best  method  of  grafting  for  general  purposes  is  crown  or  rind 
grafting.  By  this  method  large,  old,  healthy,  but  fruitless  trees  may 
be  headed  down  and  worked  with  better  varieties.  Branches  more  than 
1  inch  diameter  may  be  worked,  the  larger  admitting  of  several  grafts 
being  placed  on  one  stock.  The  branches  should  in  winter  have  a 
preliminary  shortening,  and  be  again  shortened  just  prior  to  the 
grafting  at  a  point  where  the  bark  is  smooth.  To  prepare  the  stock  make 
a  slit  in  the  bark  downwards  2  inches  long,  outting  just  through  the 
bark. 
The  scions  ought  to  be  well  ripened  shoots  of  the  previous  year, 
having  the  buds  quite  dormant,  which  is  ensured  by  cutting  the  scions 
early  and  laying  them  in  moist  soil  in  a  cool  position  until  the  present 
l  .  . 
time.  The  central  portion  of  the  shoot  is  best  for  a  graft,  retaining  four 
buds  to  each.  In  preparing  for  insertion  make  a  slanting  cut  the  same 
length  as  the  opening  in  the  stock,  and  at  the  upper  edge  make  a 
transverse  cut  inwards,  thus  forming  a  small  shoulder,  which  enables 
the  scion  to  be  securely  seated  in  its  position  on  the  stock.  The  union 
of  the  stock  and  scion  should  be  as  complete  as  possible  by  exactly 
joining  the  inner  barks  on  both  sides  if  practicable,  but  one  side  at 
least.  Then  secure  the  grafts  firmly  with  raffia  grass  and  cover  all 
joinings,  using  clay  or  grafting  wax. 
Fruit  Forcing, 
Cucumbers. — Shading  may  be  necessary  in  the  middle  of  the  day 
for  an  hour  or  two  in  bright  weather  to  prevent  flagging,  but  with  the 
plants  healthy  and  the  roots  abundant  very  little  will  be  necessary, 
always  provided  they  are  properly  supplied  with  water  and  nutrition, 
and  free  from  pests.  Water  plants  and  the  houses  abundantly  when 
required,  keeping  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  all  day  by 
frequent  damping,  syringing  the  plants  both  ways  about  3.30  P.M., 
dosing  the  house  at  the  same  time.  To  secure  tender  crisp  fruit 
maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing 
to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  an  increase  to  100°  will  not  do  any  harm 
after  closing.  In  watering  plants  in  pits  and  frames  do  it  early  in  the 
afternoon,  so  as  to  get  the  foliage  dry  before  nightfall.  Maintain  a 
good  bottom  heat  by  linings  renewed  as  required.  Ventilate  early  and 
moderately,  husbanding  the  sun’s  heat  by  early  closing,  and  employ  a 
thick  night  covering  over  the  lights.  Avoid  overcrowding,  keeping  the 
shoots  stopped  to  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  and  remove  bad  leaves 
as  they  appear.  Keep  young  plants  near  the  glass  to  insure  a  sturdy 
growth.  Sow  seed  for  raising  plants  to  occupy  frames  after  forced 
vegetables,  salading,  or  bedding  plants  are  removed.  Wireworms  are 
sometimes  troublesome,  coming  in  with  the  turf,  and  as  the  grass 
is  dead  they  are  usually  ravenous  ;  they  cannot  resist  baits  of  Carrot, 
Turnip,  Mangold  Wurtzel,  or  Potatoes  cut  into  thick  slices  and  inserted 
in  the  soil  a  couple  of  inches,  examining  the  bait  every  morning. 
Millipedes  and  woodlice  are  equally  fond  of  these  vegetables,  though 
woodlice  prefer  Potato  wrapped  in  a  little  hay,  examining  them  daily. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Houses. — The  very  early  Peaches, 
Alexander  and  Waterloo,  Advance  and  Cardinal  Nectarines,  have 
completed  the  stoning  process,  and  are  closely  followed  by  Early  Louiss 
Peach  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarine.  These  very  early  varieties  should 
be  grown  in  a  house  by  themselves,  so  that  when  the  stoning  is  com¬ 
pleted  the  fruit  may  be  accelerated  in  ripening  by  an  increased  tempera¬ 
ture  ;  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  exceed  65°  at  night,  or  70°  to  75°  by  day 
from  fire  heat,  because  the  growths  are  liable  to  become  attenuated 
when  the  atmosphere  is  warm,  close,  and  moist.  It  is  different  under 
sun  heat,  as  evaporation  is  going  on,  and  assimilation  taking  place  to  a 
much  larger  extent,  therefore  the  temperature  may  be  kept  at  75°  to 
85°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat,  ventilating  at  the  top  of  the  house 
at  75°,  and  opening  the  front  at  80°,  so  as  to  secure  a  circulation. 
To  prevent  moisture  being  deposited  on  the  fruit,  and  “  spot  ” 
induced,  it  is  advisable  to  leave  a  chink  of  air  at  the  top  of  the  house 
constantly.  Close  the  house  at  80°,  and  sufficiently  early  to  allow  a  rise 
to  85°  or  90°,  the  trees  being  syringed  and  surfaces  well  damped,  so  as 
to  secure  atmospheric  moisture,  which  will  cause  the  fruit  to  swell  to  a 
great  size,  Alexander  and  Waterloo  Peaches  reaching  10  inches  in 
circumference.  Employ  clear  rain  water  for  syringing,  and  have  the 
fruit  dry  before  nightfall.  Cease  syringing  the  trees  directly  the  fruit 
commences  ripening,  otherwise  the  skins  become  rough  or  cracked,  and 
then  they  are  spoiled  in  appearance,  and  have  a  musty  flavour  when 
ripe.  A  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  should  be  maintained,  for 
the  benefit  of  the  foliage,  by  damping  the  floor  twice  a  day,  and  keeping 
the  mulching  on  the  borders  moistened  as  it  becomes  dry. 
The  second  early  varieties,  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Early  Alfred,  Dr» 
Hogg,  and  Rivers’  Early  York  Peaches,  with  Rivers’  Early,  Lord  Napier, 
Goldwin  and  Darwen  Nectarines,  started  in  December,  have  scarcely 
finished  stoning,  and  they  must  not  have  a  temperature  exceeding  60°  to 
65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  with  gleams  of  sun,  allowing  5°  to 
10°  moie  from  sun  heat,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air.  Stirling  Castle, 
Royal  George,  Dymond,  Crimson  Galande,  Grosse  Mignonne,  and 
Bellegarde,  all  Peaches  carrying  a  high  colour  combined  with  first-class 
quality,  and  unrivalled  for  forcing,  all  points  considered,  are  still  later 
in  stoning,  as  also  are  Stanwick  Elruge,  Dryden,  and  Humboldt 
Nectarines;  therefore,  when  a  number  of  varieties  are  grown  in  the 
same  house,  the  temperature  must  be  regulated  so  as  to  suit  the  later 
varieties.  Attend  to  the  border  for  watering,  mulching  with  sweet, 
rather  lumpy  manure,  about  an  inch  thick,  and  afford  liquid  manure 
when  necessary,  or  top-dressings  of  fertilisers  washed  in,  but  avoid 
encouraging  sappy  growths  by  excessive  and  needless  supplies.  Stop 
or  remove  all  gross  growths  before  they  have  time  to  draw  the  supplies 
of  sap  from  the  weaker  parts  of  the  trees,  but  allow  leading  shoots, 
particularly  of  young  trees,  to  extend  over  uncovered  parts  of  the 
trellis,  pinching  out  their  points  when  the  fruits  begin  to  take  their  last 
swelling,  or  they  may  be  left  their  full  length  when  sturdy  and  short- 
jointed.  Remove  the  leaves  over  or  in  front  of  the  fruit,  and  turn  the 
latter  up  to  the  light,  by  thin  laths  placed  across  the  trellis,  with  the 
apex  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  most  light,  so  that  the  colour  may 
be  there  most  pronounced,  and  the  flesh  highly  flavoured. 
