April  11,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER ; 
313 
WOKKrroi'rcrcWEEK.. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  completed  the 
stoning  process,  and  directly  this  is  completed  the  fruit  commences 
colouring,  and  takes  its  swelling  for  ripening.  The  temperature  may 
now  he  raised,  but  it  must  not  exceed  55°  to  60°  at  night  and  65°  by  day 
from  artificial  means,  with  a  little  ventilation  constantly,  increasing  it 
at  70°,  and,  subjeot  to  the  “  crack  ”  of  air  at  the  top  of  the  house,  close 
at  that  temperature.  The  heat,  however,  must  not  be  allowed  to  exoeed 
that  degree  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  without  full  ventilation,  for 
ripening  Cherries  are  very  liable  to  crack  in  a  close  moist  atmosphere. 
From  the  commencement  of  colouring  until  the  trees  are  cleared  of  their 
fruits  syringing  must  cease,  or  the  fruit  will  split  and  be  spoiled,  but  a 
good  moisture  should  be  maintained  in  the  house  by  keeping  the  surface 
of  the  border  moistened  as  it  becomes  dry,  or  if  the  trees  are  in  pots 
sprinkle  the  floor  two  or  three  times  a  day,  avoiding,  however,  a 
stagnant  atmosphere.  Aphides  must  be  kept  under  by  an  insecticide, 
but  fumigation  only  can  be  had  recourse  to  after  the  fruit  commences 
ripening.  The  border  must  not  lack  moisture,  and  liquid  manure 
should  be  liberally  accorded  to  trees  in  pots. 
Melons. — Secure  every  ray  of  light  to  plants  swelling  their  fruits  by 
keeping  the  glas9  clean,  and  supply  water  liberally  to  the  roots,  or 
liquid  manure,  providing  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  Overcropping 
not  only  renders  the  fruit  small,  but  prejudices  the  quality,  which  is 
proportionate  to  the  amount  of  solidified  matter  and  its  transformation 
in  ripening.  This  is  best  effected  by  a  somewhat  dry  and  warm 
atmosphere,  with  diminished  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  there 
must  not  be  any  deficiency  until  the  fruit  commences  ripening,  and  not 
then  if  the  plants  are  to  continue  for  a  second  crop.  A  little  air 
constantly  will  keep  the  fruit  steadily  ripening  and  prevent  its  cracking. 
During  the  setting  of  the  fruits  a  drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere  and 
soil  is  advisable,  but  the  soil  must  not  become  so  dry  as  to  cause  the 
foliage  to  flag.  Attend  daily  to  setting  the  flowers,  stopping  the 
growths  as  the  blossoms  are  fertilised.  Keep  the  temperature  at  65° 
to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  between  80°  and  90°  with  sun 
heat,  ventilating  carefully  at  all  times,  avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  in 
the  moisture  and  of  temperature. 
Plants  in  pits  and  frames  are  showing  fruit,  and  unless  they  are 
sufficiently  numerous  to  insure  two  to  four  fruits  on  a  plant,  setting  at 
the  same  time  or  thereabout,  it  is  advisable  to  remove  the  first  flowers, 
as  with  more  shoots  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  securing  five  or  six 
pistillate  blossoms  of  simultaneous  growth  on  each  plant,  which  should 
be  fertilised.  Maintain  good  linings,  bottom  heat,  and  a  dry  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  when  the  fruit  is  setting.  After  the  fruits  are  set 
let  them  be  raised  on  a  flower  pot,  with  a  slate  intervening  above  the 
foliage.  Earth  up  the  plants  as  they  advance  in  growth,  having  this 
effected  before  the  fruit  js  set,  as  it  cannot  well  be  attended  to  afterwards 
in  frames.  Make  new  beds,  and  put  out  plants,  sowing,  potting,  and 
otherwise  preparing  for  planting  successional  beds. 
Vines. — Early  Forced. —  Early  Grapes  are  readily  had  where  there 
are  proper  structures  for  fruiting  the  canes,  and  then  are  stout  and 
thoroughly  ripened.  Better  results,  however,  are  had  by  planting  the 
Vines  out  in  beds,  with  hot-water  pipes  in  a  chamber,  as  in  growing 
Cucumbers  and  Melons,  than  by  having  the  Vines  in  pots.  If  the  beds 
are  3  feet  or  4  feet  wide  they  answer  admirably  when  drained,  and 
about  15  inches  depth  of  soil  provided,  cut-back  Vines  being  the  best 
for  planting.  Train  the  canes  over  the  glass,  just  keeping  their 
principal  leaves  clear  of  it,  then  the  wood  will  be  short-jointed  and 
thoroughly  solidified.  Pinch  the  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and  to  one  of 
subsequent  growl  h.  The  principal  leaves  must  on  no  account  be 
prejudiced  by  laterals.  Stop  the  canes  at  6  to  8  feet  of  growth,  and  if 
disposed  to  push  laterals  strongly  at  the  joints  immediately  below  the 
stopping  pinch  them  closely,  allowing  the  laterals  lower  down  to  extend 
a  little,  so  as  to  appropriate  the  surplus  sap,  and  cause  that  part  of  the 
cane  to  thicken  equally  with  the  upper  portion. 
Grapes  Ripening. — The  berries  swell  considerably  after  colouring 
commences,  and  to  secure  the  full  swelling  of  the  fruit  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  must  be  maintained.  Afford  a  thorough  supply  of 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  the  root,  as  early  Grapes  severely  tax  the 
energies  of  the  Vines,  and  though  aiming  high,  perfection  in  colour  is 
not  always  attained.  A  liberal  and  constant  supply  of  warm  air  greatly 
favours  the  ripening  process,  especially  if  combined  with  a  low  night 
temperature,  say  60°  to  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  and 
80°  to  85°  from  solar  influences.  Bed  spider  is  almost  inseparable  from 
forced  Vines.  Syringing  the  leaves  of  the  Vines  with  a  solution  of 
softsoap,  preferably  paraffin,  not  more  than  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water, 
is  a  safe  but  tedious  method  of  freeing  Vino  foliage  from  red  spider. 
In  supplying  liquid  manure  at  the  commencement  of  colouring  afford  it 
early  in  the  day,  so  that  surplus  moisture  may  pass  off  before  closing 
time.  Wheu  the  Grapes  are  fully  ripe,  only  afford  sufficient  heat  to 
prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  60°,  maintaining  a  moderate 
amount  of  moisture  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  If  the  weather 
prove  bright  a  light  shading,  or  a  double  thickness  of  herring  or  single 
pilchard  netting  over  the  roof-lights,  will  assist  Black  Hamburghs  in 
retaining  colour. 
Succession  Houses. — Early  and  close  attention  should  be  given  to 
thinning  the  bunches  and  berries,  as  each  surplus  bunch  or  berry  takes 
from  the  ultimate  Bize  and  finish  of  those  left  for  the  crop.  .  Likewise 
in  disbudding  and  stopping,  every  needless  growth  is  only  so  much 
wasted  energy.  A  margin  must  be  left  for  extension  at  stopping,  so  as 
to  prevent  ultimate  crowding,  and  this  will  insure  steady  supplies  of 
nourishment,  which  means  root  action  proportionate  to  the  foliage  to 
digest  it.  Afford  proper  supplies  of  water,  and  feed  with  liquid  manure 
or  top-dressings  of  fertiliser  washed  into  the  soil. 
Vines  Swelling  their  Crops. — A  moist  atmosphere  is  essential, 
damping  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day,  and  occasionally  with 
liquid  manure,  as  Peruvian  guano,  1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of  water,  or  neat 
stable  and  cowhouse  drainings  diluted  with  six  times  the  bulk  of  water. 
These  evolve  ammonia  vapour  steadily,  which,  in  small  amounts,  is 
certainly  beneficial  to  the  foliage  and  inimical  to  red  spider.  Admit  a 
little  air  early,  increasing  it  with  the  advancing  temperature,  and 
maintain  it  at  80°  to  85°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat ;  close  early  so 
as  to  raise  to  90°,  and  admit  a  little  air  before  nightfall.  A  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  is  sufficient  from  fire  heat, 
never  losing  an  opportunity  of  dispensing  with  it  in  favour  of  that  of 
the  sun,  as  there  is  both  economy  and  health  in  it. 
Late  Houses. — As  soon  as  the  best  shows  of  fruit  can  be  distinguished 
commence  disbudding,  and  when  the  shoots  are  advanced  one  or  two 
joints  beyond  the  bunch  take  off  their  points  where  the  space  is  limited. 
Pinch  the  laterals  to  one  leaf  above  the  bunch  and  remove  those  below, 
except  from  the  two  lowest  leaves,  which  pinch  at  the  first  joint,  also 
the  sub-laterals  to  one  leaf.  When  the  bearing  shoots  are  a  good  distance 
apart  all  the  laterals  may  be  left,  stopping  these  and  sub-laterals  below 
the  fruit  to  one  joint  as  made,  but  above  the  bunch  they  may  be  allowed 
to  extend  two  or  three  joints,  or  until  the  space  is  fairly  covered  with 
growth,  then  keep  them  well  in  hand.  Close  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing  the  Vines  at 
closing  time,  but  not  after  the  bunches  show. 
1  oung  Vines.  —  Those  allowed  to  break  naturally  and  assisted  with  a 
little  fire  heat  when  the  buds  have  grown  about  half  an  inch  make  rapid 
progress,  but  they  need  not  have  a  higher  temperature  than  50°  to  55° 
at  night,  and  60°  to  65°  the  day  after  the  leaves  appear,  relying  mainly 
on  sun  heat,  with  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  on  cold  days.  Remove 
all  buds  except  one  at  each  break,  letaining  the  stiongest,  and 
leave  the  shoots  about  18  incl  es  distance  apart  on  both  sides  of  thecane 
Crop  permanent  Vines  lightly,  but  supernumeraries  may  carry  full 
crops,  always  having  regard  to  attaining  perfection  in  colour  and 
finish. 
He  Kitchen  Garden. 
Potatoes. — The  early  varieties  of  Potatoes  laid  rose  end  upwards  in 
shallow  boxes,  where  they  have  developed  sturdy  purple  sprouts  under 
the  influence  of  light,  may  now  with  advantage  be  transferred  to  a 
sunny  position  in  drills  4  inches  deep  and  2  feet  apart.  Place  the 
tubers  1  foot  apart  in  the  drills,  and  oover  the  growth  carefully  with  a 
fine  mixture  of  soil,  wood  ashes,  and  leaf  mould.  The  rest  of  the 
space  may  be  filled  in  with  the  ordinary  soil.  Under  favourable 
conditions  as  to  weather  the  sprouts  will  soon  push  through,  when  care 
must  be  taken  that  they  are  not  injured  by  frost.  Temporary 
protection  in  the  shape  of  dry  litter  should  be  at  hand  to  shield  the 
growth  against  the  effects  likely  to  be  caused  by  sudden  sharp  frosts. 
Beet. — Dell’s  Crimson  Beet  is  one  of  the  best  for  ordinary  table  use, 
while  Pragnell’s  Exhibition  may  be  sown  for  competition  purposes. 
Blood  Red  is  an  excellent  sort,  while  the  Turnip-rooted  is  useful  for 
'shallow  soils.  Beet  requires  a  good  loamy  soil,  well  worked  by  deep 
digging.  Manure  if  added  when  preparing  the  soil  should  be  placed  in 
the  bottom  spit,  where  the  tap-root  will  in  the  course  of  the  season  find 
it.  Manure  in  the  surface  spit  is  likely  to  cause  forked  roots,  and  spoil 
the  shape  of  any  variety.  The  best  soil  is  one  well  manured  for  a. 
previous  crop,  so  that  there  is  no  occasion  to  add  fresh  manure.  Land 
that  has  been  well  exposed  to  the  weather  can  be  broken  up  more 
readily,  and  brought  to  a  well  pulverised  condition,  as  the  particles  fall 
easily.  Having  made  the  surface  fine,  draw  drills  a  foot  apart  and  half 
an  inch  deep.  In  these  sow  the  seeds  thinly,  or  drop  two  or  three  seeds 
9  inches  apart,  eventually  thinning  out  to  one. 
Celery. — Seedlings  should  be  pricked  out  now  on  a  bed  of  good  soil 
in  a  frame.  Forming  the  bed  on  a  spent  hotbed  is  a  good  plan,  but 
failing  that,  place  a  layer  of  manure  on  a  hard  bottom,  and  oover  with 
3  or  4  inches  of  soil.  Into  this  prick  out  the  plants,  or  they  may  be 
placed  in  boxes.  A  two-light  frame  will,  however,  hold  a  considerable 
number.  Seed  for  the  late  crop  may  be  sown  in  pans  or  boxes  in  a 
greenhouse,  the  plants  being  ready  for  prioking-out  on  an  outdoor  bed 
in  May. 
Turnips. — Early  Milan  and  Early  Snowball  are  excellent  varieties 
for  sowing  now.  Make  shallow  drills  with  the  back  of  a  rake  on  good 
rioh  ground,  and  sow  the  seed  sparingly.  In  a  warm,  moist  period  the 
seed  will  soon  germinate.  Thin  as  soon  as  practicable  to  a  reasonable 
distance  apart. 
