April  18,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
335 
Rardy  Frnit  Garden. 
Disbudding. — The  disbudding  or  rubbing  off  of  superfluous  wood 
growths  is  chiefly  confined  to  wall  trees  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  and 
Nectarines  ;  but  it  is  equally  applicable  to  Plums,  Cherries,  or  other 
fruit  trees  on  walls.  Not  only  wall  trees,  however,  but  bush  trees 
in  the  open,  or  trees  of  any  form  when  in  a  young  state,  may  with 
advantage  receive  attention  to  disbudding.  If  taken  in  time,  and  the 
process  of  removal  is  carried  out  at  short  intervals,  disbudding  is  an 
excellent  means  of  regulating  and  disposing  growth  in  a  symmetrical 
manner,  thus  giving  the  trees  or  bushes  a  shapely  appearance,  and  not 
crowding  the  growths. 
Apricots. —  Give  early  attention  to  these  trees  in  the  matter  of 
disbudding.  The  first  shoots  to  be  removed  are  necessarily  those 
growing  towards  the  wall  from  behind  the  branches.  These  if  allowed 
to  extend  grow  awkwardly,  and  can  never  be  properly  laid  in,  there¬ 
fore  gradually  remove  all  of  them.  The  next  shoots  to  be  removed 
are  those  ill-placed  on  other  parts  of  branches,  finally  thinning-out  the 
remainder.  As  the  Apricot  bears  on  spurs  as  well  as  young  shoots,  the 
complete  removal  of  shoots  not  required  to  lay-in  or  retain  at  full 
length  may  in  some  cases  be  avoided  by  shortening  the  growths  to 
three  or  four  good  leaves,  when  they  will  form  spurs.  Some  growths 
on  the  branches  grow  sufficiently  short  and  compact  without  pinching 
or  stopping.  These  are  termed  natural  spurs,  and  are  quite  of  a 
fruitful  character.  Spurs  resulting  from  shoots  that  have  been 
shortened  are  termed  artificial.  As  a  rule  but  few  of  these  originate  on 
Apricot  trees,  the  chief  bearing  growths  either  being  previous  year’s 
shoots  or  the  natural  spurs. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Disbudding  should  commence  immediately 
growths  push,  dispensing  first  with  all  those  that  are  from  their 
position  unnecessary,  being  ill  placed,  or  would  cause  crowding. 
Gradual  removal  is  in  all  cases  best,  and  especially  when  the  weather  is 
cold  should  a  limited  number  be  removed.  The  best  growths  for  laying 
in  are  those  situated  on  the  upper  side  of  branches  in  convenient 
positions,  while  for  shortening  to  form  spurs  select  foreright  shoots, 
that  is,  those  extending  at  right  angles  from  the  wall.  The  rule  for 
disbudding  Peaches  and  Nectarines  is  to  select  a  good  growth  at  the 
base  of  each  fruiting  shoot  to  form  a  successional  after  the  bearing 
growth  is  cut  away,  which  may  be  done  when  the  fruit  has  been 
gathered.  A  growth  at  the  apex  of  the  fruiting  shoot  must  also  be 
retained  in  order  to  attract  sap  to  the  fruit.  The  intermediate  growths 
must  be  well  thinned  out,  leaving  one  here  and  there  along  the  entire 
length.  When  small  the  growths  can  be  rubbed  out  with  finger  and 
thumb,  but  on  attaining  strength  they  must  be  cut  out,  though  the  chief 
disbudding  should  be  accomplished  before  the  latter  stage  is  reached. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — In  the  first  process  of  training  young  trees  on 
walls  the  practice  of  judicious  disbudding  will  help  materially  in 
regulating  the  growths  to  advantage,  selecting  shoots  for  extending  at 
the  places  best  adapted  to  produce  suitably  shaped  and  balanced  trees. 
In  old  trees  some  disbudding  is  always  necessary  in  order  to  curtail  the 
mass  of  shoots  which  annually  push,  reducing  them  to  a  reasonable 
number  so  as  to  avoid  crowding. 
In  training  Morello  Cherries,  and  carrying  out  the  disbudding,  a 
larger  number  of  shoots  may  be  retained  than  is  customary  with  other 
varieties,  eventually  laying  in  shoots  3  or  4  inches  apart.  The  practice, 
therefore,  of  disbudding  may  largely  follow  the  lines  laid  down  for 
Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines.  A  fair  number  of  spurs  may  be 
retained,  as  in  Apricots,  and  a  fair  amount  of  young  wood,  as  in 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Depending  solely  upon  young  shoots  for 
producing  the  fruit  leads  to  good  results.  So,  also,  is  the  case  when  a 
judicious  number  of  spurs  is  encouraged  as  well. 
Mulching  Strawberries  snd  Raspberries. — A  liberal  mulching  of 
manure  laid  down  between  the  rows  of  established  Strawberries  is  of 
great  assistance  in  furnishing  food  and  an  equable  state  of  moisture  to 
the  fibrous  roots.  A  mixture  of  manure,  consisting  of  long  and  short, 
may  be  used.  The  strawy  part,  after  becoming  well  washed  by  rain, 
affords  an  excellent  bed  for  the  fruit  to  rest  upon  during  ripening. 
Raspberries  enjoy  a  liberal  dressing  of  rich  manure  over  the  roots,  this 
tending  to  keep  them  well  enriched  and  moist,  thus  encouraging  the 
production  of  abundant  fibrons  roots  near  the  surface. 
Destroying  Aphides  and  Caterpillars. —  Should  aphis  attack  the  youDg 
growths  of  wall  trees,  a  dusting  of  tobacco  powder  will  serve  to  prevent 
their  increase.  One  cause  of  these  insects  attacking  the  trees  is  dryness 
of  the  soil  about  the  roots,  hence  examination  should  be  made  of  the 
border,  and  if  found  to  be  dry,  make  several  holes  of  good  depth  with  a 
crowbar,  and  repeatedly  fill  with  water,  to  thoroughly  soak  the  soil.  In 
addition  to  aphis,  Apricots  are  liable  to  be  attacked  with  leaf-rolling 
caterpillars,  the  Apricot  moth  (Tortrix  angustiorana).  The  remedy  for 
theBe  is  pinching  the  rolled-up  leaves  to  orush  the  caterpillars,  or 
during  the  early  stages  of  attack  spray  the  trees  with  Paris  green,  1  oz. 
to  20  gallons  of  water. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — Although  shading  will  be  necessary  for  an  hour  or  two 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  to  prevent  flagging  daring  bright  weather,  it  is 
not  advisable  to  have  recourse  to  this  more  than  can  be  helped,  as  the 
firmer  the  growths  the  more  healthy  the  plants,  and  the  cleaner  ard 
heavier  the  fruit.  Water  will  be  required  abundantly,  but  not  to  the 
extent  of  making  the  soil  sodden,  and  the  consequent  loss  of  the  root 
hairs,  if  not  actually  of  the  tender  young  fibrelets,  hence  stunted 
growths  and  fruit  are  the  consequence.  Plenty  of  atmospherio  moisture 
secured  all  day  by  frequent  damping  prevents  evaporation  to  a  great 
extent,  lessens  the  need  of  water  at  the  roots,  and  insures  free  growth 
and  fruit  swelling. 
Syringe  the  plants  about  3.30  p.m.,  or  earlier  on  dull  days,  closing 
the  house  at  the  same  time.  Attend  two  or  three  times  a  week  to  the 
tying  of  the  growths  loosely,  removing  dead  leaves,  thinning  the  shoots, 
cutting  out  exhausted  wood  and  laying  in  successional,  stopping  one 
joint  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  Keep  young  plants  near  the  glass  to 
insure  a  sturdy  growth  and  stout  stems.  Sow  seeds  for  raising  plants 
to  occupy  houses,  pits,  or  frames,  after  forced  vegetables  or  bedding 
plants  are  removed. 
Watering. — In  watering  plants  in  pits  and  frames  do  it  early  in 
the  afternoon,  maintaining  a  good  bottom  heat  by  linings  renewed  as 
required.  Ventilate  early  and  moderately,  securing  90°  from  sun  heat, 
husbanding  this  by  early  closing,  and  employ  good  night  coverings  over 
the  lights.  Avoid  overcrowding,  stopping  the  shoots  one  joint  beyond 
the  fruits,  and  removing  bad  leaves  as  they  appear. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Houses. — The  stoning  process 
being  over  with  the  earliest  varieties,  they  may  be  given  a  temperature 
of  70°  to  75°  by  artificial  means,  allowing  it  to  fall  to  65°,  or  even  60°  on 
cold  nights,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat,  the 
trees  being  well  syringed,  and  good  atmospheric  moisture  secured  ;  but 
the  fruit  and  foliage  must  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Draw  aside 
or  remove  the  leaves  over  or  in  front  of  the  fruit,  and  turn  this  up  to- 
the  light  by  thin  laths  placed  across  the  treliis. 
Syringing  should  cease  when  the  fruit  commences  ripening,  but  a 
genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  must  be  maintained,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  foliage,  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  twice  a  day,  or  as 
necessary.  Unless  the  fruit  is  required  by  a  given  time,  or  as  early  as 
practicable,  it  is  advisable  to  proceed  more  gradually,  not  keeping  the 
temperature  more  than  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  with 
gleams  of  sun,  and  5°  to  10°  advance  on  bright  days,  until  the  stoning  is 
completed,  or  even  during  the  last  swelling  of  the  fruit. 
Houses  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  fruit  is  in  a  more  forward 
state  than  usual,  the  disbudding,  heeling-in  of  the  shoots,  and  the  fruit 
thinning  having  been  properly  attended  to.  Allow  no  more  growths  to 
remain  than  are  necessary  for  next  year’s  fruiting  or  the  extension  of 
the  trees.  Stop  gross  growths,  or  remove  them,  as  it  is  highly  important 
to  equally  distribute  the  sap.  Pinch  laterals  at  the  first  joint,  and 
shoots  retained  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  should  only  be  allowed 
moderate  extension,  stopping  them  in  the  first  instance  at  three  or  four 
joints  of  growth.  Endeavour  to  provide  an  even  distribution  of  foliage, 
that  will  shade  and  proteot  the  wood  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  as 
the  season  advances.  Ventilate  early,  but  carefully.  As  the  fruits  are 
swelling  fast  thin  them,  as  with  the  trees  in  good  health  the  fruit  is 
more  likely  to  stone  well  than  when  they  are  overburdened.  Water  the 
inside  border  copiously  when  supplies  are  required,  and  mulch  with  a 
little  sweet,  rather  lumpy  manure. 
Houses  Started  in  February. — Disbudding  should  be  proceeded  with, 
being  careful  to  retain  a  shoot  at  the  base  of  the  current  year’s  bearing 
shoots,  and  to  leave  no  more  on  the  extensions  than  will  be  required  for 
furnishing  the  trees  with  bearing  wood  at  15  to  18  inches  distance 
apart,  and  all  the  others  on  these  may  be  pinched  in  closely  to  form 
spurs.  A  shoot  on  a  level  with,  or  above,  the  fruit  must  also  be  retained 
on  each  bearing  shoot,  and  be  pinched  at  the  third  joint,  laterals  being 
stopped  to  one  leaf  as  made. 
As  the  fruit  is  swelling  freely  remove  those  worst  plaoed,  and  leave 
only  a  few  more  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop.  Syringe  early  on 
fine  mornings,  give  a  little  air  shortly  afterwards,  gradually  increasing 
it,  and  close  about  3  p.m.  ;  but  if  the  weather  be  very  bright  late  closing 
must  be  practised. 
Houses  Started  in  March. — As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set,  and  the  young 
growths  progressing,  aphides  make  their  appearance,  when  they  should 
be  promptly  assailed  by  insecticides.  Nicotine  compound  vapour  is  very 
effective  and  cleanly,  as  also  is  fumigation  with  tobacco  paper  or  rag, 
but  an  overdose  of  either  of  these  does  more  harm  to  the  foliage  and 
tender  fruits  than  the  insects.  Indeed,  the  foliage  of  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  is  so  tender,  and  the  young  fruit  so  susceptible  of  injury, 
that  we  do  not  advise  the  practice,  or  very  moderately  on  two  or  three 
consecutive  evenings,  leaving  the  foliage  quite  dry,  the  house  being- 
well  ventilated  previous  to  the  time  of  closing  for  vapourisation  or 
fumigation,  and  then  operating  so  as  to  deliver  the  vapour  or  smoke 
cool,  and  not  to  an  excessive  extent.  Quassia  water,  made  by  steeping 
4  ozs.  of  chips  overnight  in  2  gallons  of  water,  and  boiling  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  adding  to  it  4  ozs.  of  softsoap  as  it  cools,  and 
straining  before  use,  may  be  used  for  dipping  twigs  in  and  gently 
rubbing  the  affected  parts  with  the  fingers,  thus  dislodging  the  sit-fast 
brown  Peach  aphis,  A.  persicce.  Afterwards  syringe  the  trees,  or 
preferably,  spray  them,  as  the  liquid  goes  four  to  six  times  further 
