358 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  25,  1901. 
may  be  used  with  great  benefit,  carefully  following  the  instructions  of 
the  vendors. 
Late  Houses. — There  are,  as  usual,  complaints  of  bad  breaks,  whioh 
mainly  arise  from  imperfect  ripening  of  the  wood,  and  the  production 
of  loose  bunohes  may  be  attributed  to  the  same  cause  oombined  with 
grossness  of  growth.  Various  expedients  are  resorted  to  for  correcting  the 
latter  evil,  the  best  thing  being  to  stop  the  shoots  three  or  four  joints 
beyond  the  fruit,  tying  the  growths  to  the  wires.  Choose  the  latter 
part  of  a  fine  day  for  this  operation  when  the  growths  are  limp,  after 
keeping  the  house  rather  drier  and  warmer  than  usual.  Gros  Colman 
and  other  late  free-setting  varieties  should  now  be  forming  the  fruit, 
they  will  then  have  all  the  summer  before  them.  These  Grapes  require 
a  long  time  to  grow  and  perfect,  indeed  longer  than  other  varieties. 
Muscats  and  other  shy-setting  varieties  should  be  carefully  fertilised, 
operating  on  fine  days. 
A  temperature  of  70°  at  night,  and  75°  by  day,  without  sun,  is  not 
too  muob  for  Muscats  when  flowering.  It  is  usual  to  leave  surplus 
bunches  until  the  flowering  is  over,  which  is  a  mistake,  as  Vines  that  do 
not  set  a  proper  number  of  bunches  satisfactorily  are  not  likely  to  do 
better  when  more  are  left. 
Late  Hamburghs. — The  growths  will  need  attention  and  disbudding, 
tying  down,  and  regulating.  Do  not  stop  the  shoots  until  they  are  well 
developed  beyond  the  fruit,  to  the  extent  of  two  joints  where  the  space 
is  limited,  and  four  where  there  is  room,  pinching  laterals  below  the 
bunch  to  one  leaf.  Above  allow  them  to  extend,  so  as  to  insure  an  equal 
spread  of  foliage  over  the  space,  but  no  more  than  can  have  exposure 
to  light,  afterwards  keeping  closely  pinched.  Ventilate  early  and  freely, 
so  as  to  insure  short- jointed  sturdy  wood  and  thick  leathery  foliage. 
Avoid  overwatering  the  border  at  this  or  any  stage,  but  keep  it  in  a 
moist  state. 
Young  Vines. — Those  planted  last  year  are  starting  naturally,  and 
may  be  assisted  with  gentle  fire  heat  in  cold  weather.  The  canes  will 
have  been  depressed  so  as  to  cause  them  to  break  regularly  down  to  the 
basal  buds,  when  they  can  be  tied  up  in  position.  Disbud,  leaving 
the  best  shoot  about  18  inches  apart  on  both  sides  of  the  canes.  Crop 
very  lightly,  one  or  two  bunches  being  the  maximum.  Any  extra  Vines 
planted  to  fruit  early,  and  afterwards  to  be  cut  out,  may  carry  a  bunch 
on  every  side  growth. 
Newly  Planted  Vines. — When  the  Vines  take  to  the  fresh  soil  they 
will  indicate  it  by  crowing  freely.  To  secure  sturdy  growth  ventilate 
freely,  letting  all  the  growth  remain  that  can  have  full  exposure  to 
light.  Supernumeraries  intended  for  next  year’s  fruiting  should  have 
the  laterals  pioched  at  the  first  leaf,  afterwards  allowing  them  to  make 
a  few  joints  of  growth,  and  pinohing  the  cane  at  8  to  9  feet  length. 
Take  every  possible  care  of  the  leaves  on  the  cane,  not  allowing  them  to 
be  interfered  with  in  any  way  by  the  laterals.  Close  early  with  plenty 
of  atmospheric  moisture. 
He  Kitctien  Garden. 
Dwarf  French  Beans. — Another  sowing  of  a  good  prolific  variety  of 
French  Beans  should  be  made  in  frames  in  order  tc  continue  the  supply 
until  the  outdoor  crop  comes  in.  It  is  also  safe  now  to  commence 
sowing  the  outdoor  crop,  in  limited  quantity  at  first,  following  by 
euocessional  sowings  at  weekly  or  fortnightly  intervals,  according  to 
the  probable  demand  and  the  space  available.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
either  in  single  or  double  rows.  The  latter  may  be  9  inches  apart, 
placing  the  seeds  4  to  6  inches  asunder  and  3  inches  deep.  This  crop 
requires  good  ground,  well  trenched  and  manured  some  time  previously. 
If  such  ground  is  not  available  take  out  a  trench  a  foot  deep  and 
15  inches  wide,  placing  at  the  bottom  about  4  inches  of  rotted  manure, 
place  in  some  soil,  and  thoroughly  mix  with  fork  or  spade,  then  fill  up 
with  soil  to  within  3  inohes  of  top,  and  sow  seeds  at  the  above  mentioned 
distance.  The  plants  may  be  eventually  thinned  to  9  or  12  inches. 
The  best  varieties  for  outdoor  crops  are  Canadian  Wonder  and  Ne  Plus 
Ultra. 
Scarlet  Banner  Beans. — There  is  nothing  gained  by  sowing  Runner 
Beans  before  the  last  days  of  April  or  the  first  week  in  May,  as  the 
growth  appearing  above  ground  too  soon  is  liable  to  be  injured  by  frost. 
An  open,  sunny  position,  and  soil  of  a  rich,  deeply  worked  character, 
are  essential  for  the  successful  cultivation  of  Beans.  In  a  poor,  shallow, 
■or  dry  soil  the  flowers  will  fall  without  setting  fruit,  hence  the 
desirability  of  insuring,  previous  to  sowing,  that  the  soil  is  well  prepared. 
Failing  a  trenched  piece  of  ground  prepare  the  same  as  recommended 
for  French  Beans,  though  the  width  may  with  advantage  be  increased 
to  18  inches.  Well  rotted  manure  may  be  used,  and  a  sprinkling  of 
bonednst  on  the  top.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  doable  row,  9  inches  spaos 
between,  the  seeds  about  6  inohes  apart  in  the  rows.  Eventually  thiu 
to  a  foot  asunder.  When  the  plants  are  well  up,  and  begin  to  extend, 
fix  a  long  stake  to  eaoh  plant,  and  oross  them  near  the  top,  where  they 
may  be  bound  together,  whioh  is  best  done  by  running  a  horizontal 
stake  aloDg  and  securing  all  together.  In  wet,  cold,  and  heavy  soil  the 
seed  will  sometifnes  rot,  especially  should  the  period  when  germination 
is  commencing  be  wet  and  cold.  In  Buoh  cases  it  is  not  advisable  to 
trust  entirely  to  open  air  sowing,  but  raise  plants  in  boxes,  and  transfer 
them  carefully  to  the  ground  immediately  the  weather  is  safe  after  the 
middle  of  May.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes  the  first  week  in  May. 
Beet. — Another  sowing  of  Beet  ought  to  be  made.  The  cold  and 
nngenial  weather  during  the  past  week  or  two  has  not  been  favourable 
to  the  germination  of  these  rather  tender  seeds  where  the  sowing  hae 
been  carried  out  rather  early.  It  is  probable  that  sowings  made  at  the 
present  time,  or  the  following  week,  will  prove  the  most  successful. 
Brussels  Sprouts  and  Cauliflower. — Seedlings  raised  under  glass,  and 
pricked  out  in  boxes  or  frames,  should  receive  plenty  of  air  to 
strengthen  and  harden  the  growth.  Fully  expose  on  favourable 
occasions.  In  a  sheltered  position  fairly  strong  seedlings  may  be 
transplanted  outdoors  now,  thus  providing  excellent  plants  to  follow 
the  earliest  batch. 
Celery. — Sturdy  seedlings,  obtained  from  thin  sowing  in  boxes  or 
pans,  must,  before  becoming  orowded  and  spoiled  thereby,  be  prioked 
out  on  a  bed  of  soil  and  manure  in  a  frame.  A  cold  frame,  kept  closed 
for  a  time,  shading  from  bright  sun,  and  sprinkling  the  seedlings  daily, 
is  better  than  a  frame  with  bottom  heat. 
Tomatoes. — Tomato  plants,  to  be  fruited  in  pots,  may  now  be  plaoed 
in  11  or  12-inch  pots.  Pot  them  low  down,  supplying  no  more  soil  than 
will  cover  the  ball  of  soil  and  roots,  working  it  well  round,  and  making 
firm.  The  pots  must  stand  near  the  glass  to  keep  the  plants  sturdy, 
eventually  placing  them  in  their  permanent  positions.  If  to  be  grown 
in  borders  the  plants  may  also  be  put  out.  Too  much  soil,  however, 
ought  not  to  be  given  them.  A  comparatively  narrow  and  shallow 
border  on  a  stage  near  the  glass,  or  in  long  narrow  boxes,  may  be 
afforded.  The  plants  should  be  not  less  than  a  foot  apart,  and  kept  to 
a  single  stem.  Pot  or  plant  firmly  in  a  substantial  mixture  of  loam 
four  parts,  rotted  manure  one  part,  pounded  mortar  half  a  part,  wood 
ashes  half  a  part,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  bonemeal  mixed  in.  Artificial 
manure  may  take  the  place  of  the  bonemeal,  using  it  at  the  rate  of  1  lb. 
to  a  bushel  of  soil.  Over-rich  soil  is  not  desirable  at  first. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  a8  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Little’s  Soluble  Phenyle  (F.  0.). — This  article  is  prepared  by  Messrs. 
Morris,  Little,  &  Son,  Doncaster,  and  extensively  used  as  a  deodoriser, 
antiseptic,  and  disinfectant,  being  quite  different  from  carbolic  aoid ; 
indeed,  it  is  prepared  from  oreosote,  treated  with  softsoap,  and  made 
soluble.  In  this  form  it  has  been  used  for  destroying  the  root  pests  of 
crops,  especially  grubs  in  Carrots,  and  has  been  recommended  for 
preventing  and  destroying  eelworm.  For  Cucumber  plants  it  has  been 
used  successfully  at  a  strength  of  one  part  soluble  phenyle  to  1000  parts 
water,  or  1  fluid  oz.  to  6^  gallons  of  water,  the  water  being  soft,  and 
applied  at  the  same  temperature,  after  solution,  as  that  of  the  soil  in 
whioh  the  plants  are  growing,  or  the  mean  of  the  house,  giving  as  much 
as  in  an  ordinary  watering.  In  the  case  of  plants  grown  under  highly 
forcing  conditions,  consequently  very  tender  at  the  roots,  it  may  be 
advisable  to  use  a  weaker  solution,  say  at  half  strength,  or  1  fluid  oz.  to 
12J  gallons  of  water,  and  increase  the  strength  as  the  plants  gain 
vigour,  always  being  careful  not  to  apply  it  too  strong.  It  is  neoessary 
to  begin  early,  as  when  the  eelworm  has  obtained  a  good  hold  on  the 
roots  or  root-stem  remedy  is  out  of  the  question. 
Climbers  for  Garden  Arches  (Climbers).— For  the  double  arohes  in 
the  centre  walk,  whioh  yon  think  of  planting  with  Crimson  Rambler 
and  Felioite  Perpetue  Roses,  we  should  consider  the  claims  of  Gloire 
de  Dijon  in  preference  to  the  latter,  or  if  you  require  a  whine,  Grandi- 
flora,  a  hardy  and  vigorous  variety  of  the  climbing  section  of  Japanese 
Roses  (Rosa  polyantha),  though  Psyche,  a  seedling  from  Turner’s 
Crimson  Rambler,  with  flowers  produoed  freely  in  clusters  of  eight  to 
twenty,  pale  rose-pink  suffused  at  the  base  of  petals  with  salmon-pink 
and  yellow,  may  meet  your  requirements  if  you  require  a  pink  flowered 
Rose.  The  following  varieties  of  Clematis  of  the  Jackmauni  type  have 
proved  excellent: — Flammula  rubro-marginata,  creamy  white,  deeply 
margined  with  reddish  plum,  highly  scented  ;  Gipsy  Queen,  rich  velvety 
purple,  very  free,  late  flowering;  Jaokmanni  alba,  whine;  Jaokmanni 
s u per ba,  violet  purple;  Prince  of  Wales,  puoy-purple ;  Rubella,  claret- 
purple;  Star  of  India,  reddish  plum,  with  red  bar;  Victoria,  deep 
reddish  mauve ;  and  Tunbridgensis,  deep  bluish  mauve.  Of  the 
Viticella  type  :  Earl  of  Be aconsfield,  rich  purple;  and  Thomas  Moore, 
violet,  white  stamens.  Of  the  Lanuginosa  type  : — Henryi,  white ; 
Enobantress,  double  white,  external  petals  flashed  w'th  rose;  and 
Will  am  Keqnet,  deep  lavender.  Of  Honeysuckles,  Loniera  Per’clymenum 
vars.  Early  Cream,  gratum,  Late  Dutch,  and  odoratissima,  with 
L.  sempervirens  (Scarlet  Trumpet). 
