May  2,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
379 
WOKK^foi^theWEEK.. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Strawberries. — Weeds  of  a  strong  rooting  charaoter,  which  have 
established  themselves  in  permanent  Strawberry  beds,  should  be  forked 
out  cleanly.  Annual  weeds,  now  showing  as  strong  seedlings,  can  be 
cut  down  with  the  hoe  on  a  sunny  day,  when  the  heat  of  the  sun  will 
quickly  destroy  them.  The  removal  of  weeds  may  take  plaoe  at  the 
same  time  as  the  dry  and  withered  mulching  material,  the  remains  of 
that  applied  in  the  autumn.  Having  cleansed  the  ground,  well 
established  plants  should  receive  some  stimulating  assistance,  which 
will  enable  the  bloom  to  advance  strongly,  and  the  roots  to  be  of  a 
vigorous  fibrous  character,  which  augurs  well  for  the  perfecting  of 
the  crop. 
Artificial  Manure. — At  this  season  of  the  year  there  is  a  lack  of 
nitrogen  in  the  soil  where  the  plants  appear  backward  in  growth  or 
somewhat  pale  in  colour.  This  may  be  remedied  to  a  great  extent  by 
applying  nitrate  of  soda,  which  is  an  excellent  manure  for  Strawberries 
on  dry  soils,  affording  a  dressing  at  the  rate  of  2  lbs.  Der  rod,  or  1  oz. 
per  square  yard.  Crash  the  manure  fine,  and  SDrinkle  it  round  the 
plants,  and  not  over  or  among  the  crowns. 
Soot. — A  dressing  of  soot  is  beneficial,  applying  it  round  the  plants 
during  a  showery  time,  or  when  the  soil  is  moist  after  rain,  at  the  rate 
of  a  peck  to  a  rod,  so  as  to  make  the  soil  black.  Soot  may  also  be 
applied  mixed  with  water  and  poured  round  the  plants.  Besides  acting 
as  a  fertiliser  it  is  a  deterrent  to  slugp,  and  the  use  of  it  now  will  prove 
serviceable  in  preventing  these  pests  attacking  the  ripening  fruit 
later  on.. 
Liquid  Manure. — The  drainings  of  stables  and  cowsheds,  or  the 
general  liquid  collected  in  cesspools  or  from  manure  heaps,  are  useful 
in  enriching  and  moistening  the  soil.  This  stimulating  food  may  be 
used  freely  in  the  case  of  old  plantations  from  the  time  the  flower  buds 
show  until  the  fruit  is  ripening.  Where  the  liquid  is  particularly  rich 
and  strong,  dilute  it  with  a  proportion  of  water  or  soapsuds. 
Mulching. — This  is  an  excellent  time  to  afford  the  usual  spring 
mulching  of  farmyard  manure,  selecting  material  of  a  rich  character, 
containing  half  strawy  materials  and  half  short  dung.  Spread  a  good 
dressing  of  this  evenly  between  the  rows  of  the  plants,  and  at  intervals, 
should  the  weather  prove  dry,  copiously  drench  the  mulching  with 
water,  in  order  that  the  fertilising  elements  it  contains  may  be  washed 
into  the  soil,  and  oonveyed  in  direct  contact  with  the  roots.  The  rains 
will  also  assist  in  washing  the  goodness  out,  and  by  the  time  the  fruit 
commences  to  ripen  the  mulching  material  will  have  a  bleached  and 
clean  appearance,  and  provide  a  rest  for  the  ripe  fruit  of  Strawberries. 
Young  Stratvberries.— Plantations  formed  late  in  autumn,  or  early 
in  spring,  are  seldom  in  a  sufficiently  well-rooted  and  strong  condition 
for  bearing  fruit,  even  if  disposed  to  do  so.  Comparatively  weak 
plants  will  in  many  cases  show  bloom  trusses  freely,  but  in  order  not  to 
weaken  them  further  it  is  desirable  to  nip  these  out,  and  thus  enable 
good  growth  and  bold  crowns  to  be  n  ade  for  the  succeeding  year.  It 
is  well  that  the  flowers  should  appear,  because  it  is  then  certain  that 
the  stock  is  of  a  fruitful  character.  Any  plants  which  do  not  produce 
bloom  trusses  should  be  at  once  discarded,  as  it  is  probable  they  never 
will  do  so,  and  cannot  do  other  than  cause  confusion  in  an  otherwise 
fruitful  and  reliable  stock.  Hoe  among  the  spring  planted  stock  to 
promote  growth,  and  destroy  seedling  weeds.  Mulching  with  rich 
manure  is  not  necessary  for  these  at  present.  Immediately  runners 
form  cut  them  off  close  to  the  crowns. 
Raspberries. — Raspberry  stools  usually  produoe  more  suckers  than 
are  necessary,  henoe,  when  the  best  oan  be  distinguished,  remove  the 
weak  and  supeifluous.  A  liberal  mulching  of  manure  of  a  rich  and 
juicy  nature  may  be  spread  between  the  rows,  so  as  to  conserve 
moisture  and  keep  the  roots  cool  and  moist  during  hot  weather.  When 
fruit  is  set  liquid  manure  may  be  poured  over  the  mulching,  con¬ 
siderable  soluble  food  being  washed  into  the  soil  thereby. 
General  Mulching  Fruit  Trees. — Summer  mulchings  of  manure  over 
the  roots  of  fruit  trees,  especially  where  the  fibres  are  near  the  surface, 
are  upon  the  whole  beneficial,  because  they  tend  to  keep  the  soil  in  a 
medium  state  as  regards  moisture.  The  present  is  a  suitable  time  to 
apply  such  dressings,  the  soil  now  beooming  well  warmed  by  the  sun, 
and  much  moisture  will  soon  be  evaporated.  Young  newly  planted 
trees  require  some  such  assistance  to  keep  the  roots  in  a  cool,  moist,  yet 
warm  medium,  so  that  growth  may  extend  in  a  steady  manner. 
Staking,  Disbudding,  Training.— It  is  important  that  all  trees  not 
yet  well  established  be  kept  upright  by  having  a  stake  to  each  firmly 
placed  in  the  ground.  Newly  planted  trees  especially  must  be  kept 
firm,  not  only  to  preserve  their  shape,  but  so  that  wind  will  have  less 
power  upon  them,  and  prevent  the  roots  being  moved  out  of  position,  as 
they  must  be  when  the  trees  are  wind-rocked.  Some  soft  material,  such 
as  cloth,  should  be  wound  round  the  stems,  and  the  trees  secured  to  the 
stakes  with  strong  tar  twine.  As  the  growths  push  over  the  trees  make 
a  selection  of  the  best  in  the  most  suitable  positions  for  extending  the 
desired  shape  and  preventing  overorowding.  Commence  to  nail  or  tie 
out  shoots  of  wall  trees  that  have  extended  of  sufficient  length,  as  by 
doing  so  the  vacant  spaces  are  filled  up. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  in  bearing  all  the  winter  will  now  be  showing 
signs  of  exhaustion,  and  would  be  best  removed,  cleansing  the  house, 
providing  fresh  soil,  and  putting  out  young  plants  without  delay.  This 
is  far  better  than  renovating  old  plants,  and  there  is  no  very  material 
break  if  care  is  taken  to  have  strong  plants  ready  for  plaoing  out,  which 
come  into  bearing  within  a  few  weeks  j  indeed  some  turn  out  large 
plants,  and  by  cropping  lightly  have  no  break  in  the  succession,  as 
Cucumbers  cut  young  will  keep  plump  and  fresh  several  days  with  their 
heels  in  saucers  of  water.  Young  plants  coming  into. bearing  will  be 
the  better  for  removing  the  male  flowers  and  most  of  the  first  fruits, 
stopping  at  two  or  three  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  removing  all  weakly 
and  unnecessary  growths.  Encourage  a  free  root  action  by  adding 
fresh  warmed  soil  to  the  hillocks  or  ridges  as  the  roots  protrude, 
sprinkling  a  little  fertiliser  on  the  newly  added  soil,  suoh  as  super, 
phosphate  of  lime,  three  parts  ;  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia, 
two  parts;  and  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  air-slaked  chalk  lime  and  dry 
soot  by  measure,  using  a  good  handful,  3  or  4  ozs.,  per  square  yard. 
This  must  always  be  sprinkled  on  the  freshly  added  soil,  and  not 
applied  directly  on  tjie  roots. 
Little  fire  heat  will  be  required  by  day  in  fine  weather,  shutting  off 
the  heat  about  8  a.m.  and  opening  the  valves  at  about  4  P.M.,  maintaining 
adequate  moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and  other  surfaces  in  the 
morning  and  at  closing  time.  Maintain,  however,  a  night  temperature 
of  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  in  the  day  by  artificial  means.  Aphides  are 
sometimes  troublesome,  and  may  be  subdued  bv  tobacco,  either  in  the 
form  of  vapour  or  smoke,  taking  care  not  to  give  an  overdosj,  having 
the  foliage  dry  but  the  floor  well  damped ;  the  latter  is  especially 
necessary  where  there  is  white  fly  to  contend  with.  Soapy  solutions 
are  neither  safe  nor  desirable  for  use  on  Cucumber  foliage.  For  white 
fly  and  red  spider  fumes  of  sulphur  are  effective.  The  sulphur  must 
be  applied  carefully,  as  an  overdose  on  the  hot- water  pipes  at  a  high 
temperature  is  almost  as  injurious  to  the  plants  as  are  the  pests.  The 
fumes  of  sulphur  are  also  fatal  to  mildew. 
Sow  seed  for  raising  plants  to  occupy  pits  and  frames.  A  fair 
amount  of  bottom  heat  should  first  be  secured  by  using  the  less  decom¬ 
posed  material  from  Rhubarb,  Seakale,  Vine  border,  or  exhausted 
hotbeds,  which,  with  about  a  fourth  material,  will  afford  all  the  bottom 
heat  now  required.  The  linings  of  beds  made  up  some  little  time  must 
be  attended  to,  renewing  as  required.  Maintain  the  night  temperature 
as  near  as  may  be  at  65°  to  70°,  ventilate  a  little  at  75°,  and  keep 
through  the  day  at  85°  to  90°  from  sun  heat.  Close  early,  so  as  to  rise 
to  90°  or  more,  and  protect  well  at  night. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Early  Forced  Trees. — On  the  very  early 
varieties  the  ripening  fruit  must  be  kept  dry,  also  the  foliage;  but  the 
border  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  very  dry,  or  it  will  act 
prejudicially  upon  the  growth,  and  affect  the  formation  and  maturation 
of  the  buds  for  future  bearing.  As  the  fruit  of  the  other  varieties  will 
not  be  ripe  for  some  time,  keep  the  atmosphere  moist  by  frequent 
sprinklings  during  the  day,  syringing  in  the  morning,  and  again  when 
closing  the  house.  The  night  temperature  will  be  perfectly  safe  at  65° 
to  70J,  but  5°  less,  though  it  will  retard  the  ripening,  will  not  retard 
the  energies  of  the  trees  so  much  as  the  higher  temperatures. 
Fruit  Stoning. —  During  this  process  the  trees  must  not  be  hurried, 
60°  to  65J  at  night  is  ample,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  avoiding  high 
night  temperatures  and  sudden  fluctuations  by  carefully  attending  to 
the  ventilation.  A  little  air  admitted  at  night  will  prevent  the 
deposition  of  moisture  on  the  foliage  through  the  night  to  any  serious 
extent,  and  enlarge  the  openings  when  the  sun  acts  on  the  house,  yet 
without  lowering  the  temperature,  which  should  advance  with  the 
power  of  the  sun,  and  a  corresponding  increase  of  the  ventilation. 
Avoid  anything  calculated  to  dry  the  atmosphere  suddenly,  such  as 
fumigation  and  opening  the  ventilators  widely  after  the  sun  has  acted 
for  some  time  on  the  house,  for  the  effect  is  to  cripple  the  foliage,  when 
the  fruit  from  the  check  may  be  seriously  imperilled,  and  fall.  Early 
closing  is  to  some  extent  desirable,  and  an  advantage  in  swelling  the 
fruit  to  a  good  size,  but  it  must  not  be  continued  too  long.  It  is  also 
advisable  to  allow  a  little  extra  latitude  to  the  growth,  but  on  no 
account  permit  foliage  to  be  made  that  must  afterwards  be  removed  in 
quantity.  Keep  the  inside  border  well  supplied  with  water,  and  avoid 
undue  excitement  at  the  roots  by  stimulating  them  with  quickly  acting 
nitrogenous  manure,  in  either  solid  or  liquid  form.  Judioious  feeding, 
however,  is  a  great  aid  to  trees  when  stoning,  but  let  it  be  of  a 
phosphatic,  potassic,  and  magnesian  nature.  The  surface  of  the  border 
may  be  mulched  lightly  to  keep  it  moist  aud  attraot  the  roots. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Fruit. — These  swell  more  at  two  periods— 
namely,  after  setting  until  the  commencement  of  stoning,  aud  after  this 
process  is  completed  the  fruit  swells  rapidly.  The  first  is  materially, 
if  not  entirely,  influenced  by  the  previous  storing  of  matter  in  the  trees 
and  the  available  food  in  the  sod,  but  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  accelerates  the  swelling  of  the  fruits,  and  the  means  employed 
