JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
May  2,  1901. 
3  SO 
to  secure  a  good  root  action,  whioh  is  best  effected  by  a  judicious  and 
gradual  regulation  of  the  growths  by  the  process  of  disbudding  and  in 
thinning  the  fruits.  Overcrowding  is  a  great  evil,  but  large  reductions 
of  foliage  at  one  time  as  well  as  fruit  are  not  good.  There  is  no  safety 
save  in  a  steady  progressive  growth  and  careful  disbudding.  The  more 
vigorous  the  trees  the  greater  is  the  danger  of  the  fruit  being  cast  in 
stoning,  and  the  evil  is  afterwards  increased  by  severe  disbudding,  also 
by  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere.  In  the  last  swelling  after  stoning  tie 
the  shoots  down  so  that  the  fruits  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  light, 
but  moderate  extension  of  the  growths  will  materially  aid  the  fruit  in 
swelling,  care  being  taken  that  the  principal  foliage  and  fruit  be  not 
interfered  with.  Supply  water  thoroughly  to  inside  borders  when 
necessary,  and  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — The  present  is  a  trying  time  to  forcers  of 
Strawberries  in  vineries  and  Peach  houses,  for,  however  good  the 
management,  red  spider  appears.  Arrangements  will  need  to  be  made 
so  as  to  have  a  succession  of  plants,  and  crops  that  are  ripening  too  fast 
may  be  retarded  in  various  ways  for  several  days,  in  case  an  extra 
supply  is  needed  for  particular  occasions.  The  expedients  are  turning 
the  plants  so  that  the  fruit  will  be  from  the  sun,  shifting  a  north  house, 
or  removing  to  an  airy  fruit  room  or  shed  after  the  fruits  are  fully 
ripe.  Much  can  be  done  at  this  time  of  the  year  with  judicious 
management.  Plants  can  be  accommodated  in  cold  or  low-heated  pits, 
and  if  they  have  the  pots  plunged  in  ashes,  with  the  plants  well  up  to  the 
glass,  but  leaving  room  for  a  circulation  of  air  to  play  between  the  glaBS 
and  the  leaves,  will  make  sturdy  development,  and  the  forward  plants  from 
these  structures  can  always  be  picked  to  take  the  place  of  those  that 
have  the  fruit  ripe  and  ripening.  Supply  liquid  manure  at  every 
alternate  watering  to  plants  swelling  the  crops,  but  care  must  be  taken 
not  to  give  it  too  strong. 
- «.#.* - 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  I  HE  Editor,’  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
Xiondon,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
R.H.S.  Examination  (J.  E.  J.). — Many  thanks  ;  we  will  see  what 
can  be  done,  if  space  permi's,  and  will  be  glad  to  hear  from  you  again. 
Hardy  Climbers  (Able).  —  Ampelopsis  (Vitis)  hederacea,  Clematis 
vitalba,  C.  montana  major,  C.  viticella,  and  Jaeminum  nudiflorum  are 
all  very  hardy.  Have  you  tried  some  of  the  Ivies,  especially  the  Irish 
Ivy  ?  Many  plants  not  strictly  climbers  can  be  employed. 
Cnoumbers  not  Swelling  (P .  R.). — There  are  indications  that  fertilisa- 
tion  has  not  been  satisfactorily  effected.  Possibly  at  the  time  of 
flowering  the  weather  was  dull,  and  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  too 
moist  for  the  free  dispersion  of  the  pollen.  Try  artificial  fertilisation, 
or  pollination,  rather,  with  a  few  flowers,  and  do  not  keep  the  atmosphere 
so  moist. 
Vines  “  Weeping  ’’—Leaf  Burning  (W.J.M.,  Clonmel).—  The  large 
sap  globules,  dewdrop-like,  hanging  from  the  Vine  leaves,  especially  on 
a  cloudy  or  moist  morning,  and  noticed  at  this  time  of  year, 
particularly  in  the  earlier  hours,  are,  no  doubt,  due  to  transpiration 
from  the  surfaces  of  the  leaves,  and  the  condensation  of  moisture 
thereon  present  in  the  atmosphere  in  result  of  the  lowering  of  the 
temperature  during  the  night.  The  transpired  and  condensed  moisture 
naturally,  by  gravitation,  finds  its  way  to  the  edges  or  depressions  of  the 
leaves,  and  there  acts  prejudicially  on  the  cuticular  cells,  preventing 
evaporation,  and  in  consequence  the  leaves  often,  quite  apart  from  sun, 
beoome  brown  or  black,  being  destroyed  in  the  tissues  where  the  water 
has  remained  for  a  considerable  time.  But  the  great  evil  is  sun  acting 
powerfully  on  such  foliage  whilst  the  house  is  closed,  thus  heating  the 
condensed  moisture  on  the  leaf  surfaces,  and  then  air  is  admitted 
freely,  inducing  rapid  evaporation  and  cooling  of  the  moisture-laden 
margins  or  spots,  causing  a  chill.  Some,  therefore,  attribute  the 
browning  to  the  heating,  and  others  to  the  chilling,  both  right  or  both 
wrong  from  their  respective  standpoints.  As  this  does  not  occur  in 
Nature,  leaf-burning  or  scorching  being  practically  unknown,  evaporation 
being  free  and  proportionate  to  the  sun’s  power,  and  gradual  increase 
of  atmospheric  evaporation,  similar  conditions  under  glass  are  the  best 
preventive;  it  being  advisable  to  leave  a  little  ventilation  through  the 
night,  and  thus  allow  evaporation  to  proceed  in  the  early  morning,  and 
the  accumulated  vapour  to  gradually  disperse  with  advancing  sun.  Of 
course  the  great  point  is  to  increase  the  ventilation  with  the  early  rising 
of  the  sun,  having  the  ventilators  opened  judiciously  in  the  early  part 
-of  the  day,  and  until  this  scorching  and  soalling  is  avoided. 
Vine  Border  Tester  (/.  L  A). — Mr.  Alex.  Kirk  of  Alloa  Park, 
Alloa,  N.B.,  was  the  inventor*  Most  of  the  larger  nurserymen  and 
horticultural  sundriesmen  should  surely  be  able  to  supply  the  article. 
Caterpillars  on  Wall  Trees  (Reader). — They  appear  to  be  the  cater¬ 
pillars  of  the  Hawthorn  or  black-veined  butterfly  (Pieris  cratsegi)  and 
may  be  destroyed  by  first  syringing  the  trees  aud  then  dusting  with 
white  hellebore  powder. 
Strawberry  Runners  for  Forcing  (A.  F.  Harlow). — To  secure  the 
beat  and  strongest  plants  for  very  early  forcing,  we  would  advise  you  to 
grow  special  plants  to  produce  runners.  The  flowers  ooght  to  be  kept 
pinched  off  from  these,  so  as  to  give  the  runners  every  encouragement. 
These  runner-producing  plants  should  be  in  an  open,  sunny  place,  and 
the  young  plants  may  be  taken  off  in  July. 
Salting  Walks  (J.  T.). — Boards  placed  on  edge  will  prevent  the 
grass  and  Box  being  injured.  Use  the  common  agricultural  salt,  and 
apply  it  in  dry  weather.  The  longer  it  is  visible  on  the  walks  the 
more  effectual  is  it  in  the  destruction,  or,  what  is  better,  the  prevention 
of  weeds.  The  walks  should  be  made  white,  as  if  covered  with  a  slight 
shower  of  hail.  Why  not  try  the  more  expeditious  weed  killers  as 
advertised  ?  They  are  thoroughly  effectual. 
Book  on  Table  Decorations  (J.  F.). — We  are  not  acquainted  with 
any  up-to-date  work  solely  devoted  to  a  description  of  table  decorations. 
We  have  a  small  work  entitled  “  Flowers  for  Ornament  and  Decoration, 
and  How  to  Arrange  Them,”  by  Miss  Maling.  This  little  book  was 
published  by  Messrs.  Smith,  Elder,  &  Co.,  65,  Cornhill,  London,  in  the 
year  1862.  It  can  only  now  be  had  second-hand.  If  you  would  care 
to  have  it  for  a  little  while  let  us  know,  and  send  postage. 
The  Cherry  Aphis  ( Arthur  Storrs). — This  aphis  (A.  cerasi)  is  one  of 
the  most  difficult  to  destroy,  especially  when  it  is  permitted  to  increase 
and  cover  the  trees.  The  quassia  solution  to  which  you  refer  is  made 
by  boiling  4  ozs.  of  quassia  chips  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  gallon  of 
water,  then  adding  other  four  gallons  of  water  before  syringing  the 
trees.  If  to  this  you  add  a  solution  of  softsoap  of  the  strength  of  3  ozs. 
to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  a  quart  of  tobacoo  liquor,  the  application  will 
be  still  more  effective.  Mr.  Abbey  found  that  3  to  4  ozs.  of  nicotine 
soap,  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  water,  destroyed  the  Peach,  Cherry,  and 
Plum  aphis  without  injuring  either  foliage  or  frnit. 
Growing  Dandelion  for  Salading  (E.  W.). — The  large  leaved  French 
and  also  Improved  Very  Early  Dandelion,  are  only  valuable  for  salads 
when  blanched,  being  too  tough  and  too  bitter  when  green  for  almost 
any  palate,  though  in  that  state,  and  chopped  up,  fowls  eat  them 
with  avidity  and  are  bettered  in  health.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in 
rows  a  foot  apart  in  April,  thinning  the  plants  to  6  inches  distance 
asunder.  If  the  soil  be  in  good  heart,  and  the  ground  kept  free 
from  weeds,  good  roots  will  be  formed  by  November,  when  they 
should  be  lifted  and  stored  in  sand  in  a  shed  or  roothouse,  so  as  to  be 
at  command  as  required  for  forcing  during  the  winter.  In  a  dark 
situation,  such  as  a  Mushroom  house,  the  plants  force  readily,  the  roots 
being  planted  in  moist  soil  level  with  the  crown,  and  the  tops  cut  off 
about  an  inch  above  it,  fresh  and  blanched  leaves  are  produced.  When 
grown  in  the  open  ground  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  plants  with  light, 
close  material,  about  6  inches  deep  or  a  little  more,  first  cutting  off  the 
tops  to  the  ground  or  juet  above  the  crowns,  and  when  the  growths  peep 
through  the  covering  materials  they  are  fit  for  use,  the  covering  being 
removed  and  the  plant  cut  over  at  the  crown,  so  as  to  retain  the  leaves 
intact.  Sifted  coal  ashes,  or  preferably  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  are  suitable 
for  covering.  By  tying  up  the  leaves  like  Cos  Lettuce  only  the  central 
part  of  the  plant  is  blanched,  and  there  is  a  great  waste,  as  the  outer 
leaves  must  be  stripped  off,  the  heart  only  being  suitable  for  salads. 
Profitable  Longevity  of  Peach  Trees  Under  High  Cultnre  (  W.  C.). 
— In  the  Peach-growing  countries  of  Europe  and  North  America,  twelve 
to  twenty  years  is  regarded  as  the  average  profitable  longevity  of  Peach 
trees  under  high  culture,  this  being  in  the  open  a>'r.  In  this  country 
the  trees  are  not  grown  mtioh  as  standards,  but  for  the  most  part  as 
dwarf  trained  trees  to  walls  or  trellises  under  glass,  and  examples  are  not 
uncommon  of  considerable  age  and  large  proportions,  some  over  forty 
years  of  age,  and  in  good  health  and  profitable  production.  These, 
however,  are  the  exception  rather  than  the  rule,  and  from  our 
experience  we  consider  trees  of  over  twenty  years  planted  are  on  the 
decline,  and  in  most  cases  better  uprooted,  and  new  trees  planted  in 
new  borders.  A  grpat  deal,  if  not  everything,  depends  upon  the  soil 
and  management.  Mr.  Rivers  mentions  a  tree  grown  in  a  pot  for  over 
forty  years  ;  and  owing  to  the  annual  cutting  out  of  old  wood  and 
providing  new  ia  its  place,  trees  trained  to  walls  and  on  trellises  are 
constantly  rejuvenated,  so  that  they,  having  a  good  substantial  soil  and 
a  good  area  of  sp  ice,  remain  healthy  and  fruitful  for  a  long  time, 
examples  of  trees  much  older  than  yours  being  occasionally  met  with, 
as  before  named.  In  other  cases  the  trees,  whether  from  climatic  or 
soil  conditions,  are  prone  to  gumming,  and  can  only  be  kept  healthy 
and  productive  by  frequent  recourse  to  lifting  the  trees  and  renovating 
the  borders.  In  that  way  the  trees  are  kept  in  good  condition  for  a 
great  many  years.  There  are  instances,  however,  in  which  this 
procedure  does  not  succeed,  or  so  well  as  removing  trees  that  have 
passed  their  best,  and  which  experience  has  proved  are  more  profitably 
replaced  by  young  trees.  On  these  points  only  knowledge  of  the 
actual  doings  affords  a  safe  guide,  of  which  yon  have  the  example  of 
young  trees  doing  better  than  the  old.  There  may  be  other  reasons  for 
retaining  the  old  trees,  and  the  wishes  of  the  proprietor  should  always 
be  conformed  to  as  far  as  practicable. 
