May  9,  1901. 
401 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
preventing  scorching  of  the  leaves  and  berries,  which  is  often  occasioned 
by  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  them,  and  the  latter  is  a  common  cause 
of  spot. 
Vines  Started  at  the  Yeio  Year. — The  Grapes  are  colouring  and  need 
a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  to  swell  well,  damping  the  house  two 
or  three  times  a  day  until  the  colouring  approaches  completion,  when  a 
drier  atmosphere  will  be  advisable  ;  but  moisture  must  not  be  entirely 
withdrawn,  or  red  spider  will  seriously  damage  the  foliage,  and  premature 
ripening  of  the  leaves  be  induced,  the  Vines  starting  into  growth  when 
they  should  be  going  to  rest.  Afford  free  ventilation,  having  a  little  at 
the  top  of  the  house  constantly  ;  a  circulation  of  warm  air  contributes 
to  good  finish  and  quality.  Moisture  at  the  roots  must  be  furnished 
thoroughly,  one  good  soaking  of  tepid  liquid  when  the  Grapes  change 
colour,  and  a  mulch  of  partially  decayed  manure,  will  generally  secure 
sufficient  moisture  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe.  The  roots,  however,  mmt 
not  lack  moisture.  Atmospheric  moisture  will  not  injure  Grapes  of 
this  class  (Hamburgh  and  Sweetwater)  at  this  time  of  year,  provided 
it  is  not  stagnant  and  deposited  on  the  berries,  and  this  will  not  occur 
if  the  ventilation  is  properly  attended  to  and  a  gentle  warmth  is 
maintained  in  the  hot. water  pipes.  Keep  the  night  temperature  at  65°, 
a  little  more  in  warm,  and  a  few  degrees  less  on  cold  nights,  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  80°  to  90°  with  sun  heat  and  full  ventilation,  closing  at  80°  all 
but  a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the  house. 
Succession  Houses. —  The  sun  is  an  important  factor  in  keeping  down 
the  bill  for  fuel.  There  is  nothing  like  opening  the  ventilators  early  in 
the  morning,  admitting  air  in  a  safe  quantity  to  pass  through  the  house. 
It  causes  excessive  moisture  to  disappear,  allows  the  foliage  and  fruit 
to  warm  equally  with  the  atmosphere,  preventing  scorching,  while 
elaboration  begins  early,  and  is  continued  throughout  the  day.  By 
closing  early  the  Grapes  are  accelerated  in  swelling  provided  there  is  a 
due  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture,  which  can  be  secured  by  damping 
the  paths  and  borders  at  closing  time.  Before  nightfall  admit  a  little 
air  at  the  top  of  the  house.  This  chink  for  air  saves  Vines  from 
scorching  when  the  air-giver  is  not  up  early  on  sunny  mornings,  but. 
the  ventilation  should  be  increased  by  the  time  the  sun  acts  powerfully 
upon  the  house.  Thinning  the  berries  must  be  attended  to,  and 
followed  up  persistently.  The  morning  and  evening  is  the  best  time 
for  operating,  alike  to  cultivator  and  the  Grapes.  Remove  all  surplus 
bunches. 
Stop  or  remove  laterals  not  required,  letting  those  retained  extend 
where  space  permits.  Do  not  crowd  the  foliage,  and  never  allow  the 
laterals  to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves,  as  these,  to  feed  the 
buds  at  their  base,  require  free  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Supply 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  the  borders  liberally  when  needed,  and 
encourage  surface  roots  with  top-dressings  of  superphosphate,  fishmeal, 
and  blood  manure.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  mix  all  together,  with  as  much 
of  the  whole  added  of  wood  ashes,  and  sprinkle  a  handful  (about  4  ozs  ) 
on  each  square  yard,  washing  in.  Sulphate  of  ammonia  assists  Vines 
needing  vigour.  Nitrate  of  soda  may  be  used  where  the  soil  is  sandy 
or  chalky,  and  nitrate  of  potash  where  that  substance  is  deficient,  an 
ounce  per  square  yard  being  sufficient  for  one  dressing.  The  night 
temperature  should  be  kept  at  60°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to 
90°  from  sun  heat. 
Late  Vines. — These  are  advanced  for  flowering,  and  the  early  started 
may  be  in  bloom.  Wnen  in  flower  allow  a  night  temperature  of  70°, 
and  80°  by  day,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  but  not  a  drying  current, 
a  genial  atmosphere  being  maintained  by  damping  the  paths  and 
borders.  Brush  the  shy-setting  varieties  over  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush, 
and  fertilise  the  bunches  carefully  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  pollen, 
taking  it  from  those  that  afford  it  freely.  Up  to  and  after  flowering 
the  night  temperature  should  be  kept  at  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day 
artificially,  keeping  at  80°  to  85°  or  90°  through  the  day,  with  moderate 
ventilation  in  bright  weather,  and  admit  air  when  mild.  Thin  the 
bunches  and  berries,  removing  duplicate  bunches  unflinchingly,  and 
reserve  the  most  compact.  The  free-setting  varieties  should  be  com¬ 
menced  with  first,  leaving  the  shy-setting  kinds  until  it  can  be  seen 
which  are  the  properly  fertilised  berries,  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling.  Forward  Vines  that  have  only  recently  been  started,  seeking 
advancement  by  sun  heat,  but  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air,  so  as  to 
insure  sturdy  growth  and  stout  foliage. 
Tlie  Kitchen  Garden. 
Cucumbers  in  Frames.— Cucumbers  grow  very  freely  in  frames 
planted  on  a  good  bed  of  soil  over  a  compact  bed  of  fermenting  manure 
and  leaves.  Horse  manure  and  partially  decayed  leaves  may  be  thrown 
together  in  a  heap,  freely  shaking  out  the  materials  in  the  process,  and 
mixing  all  well  together,  The  mixture  will  be  better  for  turning  again 
and  mixing,  but  tins  is  not  so  essential  now  in  the  formation  of  a  hot¬ 
bed  as  earlier  in  the  season.  Place  in  a  brick  frame,  and  tread  it  down 
in  layers  as  introduced.  Nearly  fill  the  frame,  as  it  will  gradually 
subside.  Cover  the  whole  surface  with  a  layer  of  good  soil,  which  will 
keep  down  the  gases  from  the  manure.  Under  the  centre  of  each  light 
form  a  mound  of  soil,  first  placing  an  upturned  turf  sod,  which  will  arrest 
any  fierce  heat.  Tbe  compost  should  be  turfy  loam,  leaf  soil,  and 
manure.  When  the  mounds  have  become  warmed  through,  plant  one 
young  Cucumber  on  each.  Syringe  daily,  shutting  up  the  frame  early. 
If  very  hot  and  sunny,  give  slight  shade  during  midday.  Growth  will 
Boon  be  rapid,  and  young  shoots  will  appear  on  the  surface  ;  then  give 
a  top-dressing  of  soil  to  cover  these  up,  and  furnish  a  good  rooting 
medium.  Encourage  main  growths  to  cover  the  bed,  stopping  when  they 
reach  the  base.  Side  shoots  then  push,  on  which  the  fruit  forms.  Stop 
them  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit.  The  after  culture  consists  in  thinning 
out  and  regulating  these  growths  as  necessary.  When  growing  freely, 
water  must  be  given  oopiously  to  sustain  growth,  affording  it  in  the 
afternoon  at  the  time  of  closing. 
Vegetable  Marrows. — Strong  plants  raised  in  pots  and  duly  hardened 
may  be  planted  in  good  soil  in  the  open  ground  in  a  sunny  position,  or 
on  mounds  of  soil  on  heaps  of  decayed  vegetable  matter  or  leaves.  In 
either  case  some  slight  protection  should  be  given  during  cold  nights 
which  may  yet  be  expected.  The  plants,  if  not  making  much  growth 
for  a  time,  will  be  establishing  themselves,  soon  advancing  rapidly 
when  warm  weather  sets  it.  This  is  also  a  suitable  time  to  sow  seed, 
placing  about  a  gallon  of  rich,  light  soil  for  the  seed  to  germinate  in. 
The  positions  may  be  6  feet  apart. 
Tomatoes. — A  further  lot  of  plants  may  be  potted  or  planted  out 
under  glass,  the  present  being  a  good  time  to  furnish  unheated  houses 
with  strong  plants.  Grow  them  in  beds  on  the  floor  of  the  house, 
the  roof  being  unshaded,  or  in  pots,  boxes,  or  shallow  borders.  Plants 
established  in  slightly  heated  houses  are  growing  freely.  Keep  the 
stems  tied  to  the  supports  or  wires,  and  rub  out  the  side  shoots  from  the 
axils  of  leaves.  Where  well  rooted,  and  having  set  one  or  two  bunches 
of  fruit,  a  top-dressing  of  rich  material  may  be  given.  This  should 
consist  of  loam,  manure,  wood  ashes,  and  bonemeal.  Give  about  an  inch, 
and  press  down  firmly.  Tomatoes  must  be  kept  moist  at  the  roots,  and 
should  receive  frequent  attention,  especially  in  hot,  sunny  weather. 
Dwarf  and  Runner  Beans. — Suooessional  sowings  of  these  should  be 
made  if  the  quantity  already  in  the  soil  is  not  sufficient.  Thin  the  early 
rows  of  Dwarf  French  Beans  to  a  distance  of  9  or  10  inohes  between 
each  plant.  Prepare  the  sticks  or  poles  in  readiness  for  staking  the 
Runner  varieties.  Seed  sown  in  a  box  in  a  frame  will  furnish  strong 
plants  to  place  out  when  the  weather  is  safe,  or  to  fill  up  vaoanoies  in 
the  rows  of  seedlingB. 
Onions. — Lightly  hoe  between  the  rows,  and  give  a  dusting  of  soot, 
which  is  beneficial  in  accelerating  growth  and  carrying  the  plants 
beyond  the  time  when  the  Onion  fly  may  attack  them. 
Spinaoh. — Spinach  may  be  thinned  for  use.  This  will  give  the 
plants  remaining  more  room  and  a  chance  of  forming  larger  leaves, 
which  are  appreciated.  If  necessary  sow  more  seed  in  drills  on  rich 
ground.  Long  Standing  Round  and  Victoria  Spinach  are  good  varieties. 
New  Zealand  Spinach  may  be  sown  in  the  open  now. 
Cauliflowers. — Early  Cauliflowers  raised  from  seed  and  strengthened 
in  boxes  may  be  planted  out  now  in  rich  soil  a  foot  apart  in  rows  2  feet 
asunder. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — Early  plants  of  these  are  now  strong  and  hardy 
enough  to  plant  out.  A  space  of  2$  feet  between  the  rows  should  be 
provided,  the  distance  between  the  plants  15  to  18  inches.  Prick  out 
seedlings  from  the  outdoor  sowings  6  inches  apart.  These  will  be 
ready  to  plant  finally  in  June. 
Lettuce. — The  thinnings  from  rows  of  Cos  and  Cabbage  Lettuce  may 
be  planted  out  in  vacant  positions  between  Peas,  Beans,  or  on  Celery 
ridges ;  water  until  established.  Sow  seeds  in  drills  half  an  inch 
deep.  Rich  moist  ground  suits  Lettuce  best ;  in  dry  positions  it  quickly- 
runs  to  seed. 
- - 
Phenological  Observations. 
May  9th  to  16th. 
10  Fri. 
11  Sat. 
12  Sun. 
13  Mon. 
14  Tu. 
15  Wed. 
16  Thr. 
Daddy  long-legs  appears. 
Reed  bunting  lays. 
Lily  of  Valley  flowers. 
Swift  appears. 
Dot  moth  appears. 
Hawthorn  flowers. 
Spotted  fly-oatcher  appears. 
Plants  dedicated  to  each  day. 
Fme-leaved  Pajonia. 
Yellow  Asphodel. 
German  Iris. 
Common  Comfrey. 
Eastern  Poppy  (P.  orientalis). 
Common  Pseonia. 
Large  Star  of  Bethlehem. 
Mi  Week’s  Events. 
Monday,  May  13th. — United  Horticultural  Benevolent  and  Providential 
Society  Committees’  meeting. 
Thursday,  May  16th. — Royal  Botanical  Society  meeting;  Woking 
Horticultural  Society  meets,  lecture  on  “  Ferns.” 
- - ' 
Gardeners’  Provident  and  Charitable  Institutions. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution.  —  Secretary , 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society. — Secretary , 
Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  Loudon,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne, 
8,  Danes  Inn,  Strand.  London,  W.C. 
