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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  16,  1901. 
Seasonable  Notes. 
It  is  at  this  season  that  Chrysanthemums  require  particularly  close 
attention.  Sunny  days  and  drying  winds,  with  consequent  rapid 
•evap  iration  of  moisture  from  the  soil,  cause  rapid  drying.  If  the 
plants  remain  dry  Jong  they  lose  many  of  their  bottom  leaves,  and 
others  turn  yellow,  thus  becoming  useless.  Attention  must,  therefore, 
be  given  at  various  times  of  the  day,  so  as  to  maintain  the  plants  in 
the  best  possible  condition.  Early  morning  sun  soon  extracts  the 
moisture  from  the  pots,  consequently  look  over  them  early,  and  again 
during  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  at,  or  soon  after,  midday,  and 
towards  evening.  It  is  evident  they  will  not  all  require  water  at  the 
same  time,  and  this  is  why  frequent  attention  is  necessary,  and 
especially  for  plants  in  small  pots.  The  difference  in  the  rooting 
power  and  strength  of  the  individual  plants  or  varieties  accounts  for 
this.  Moreover,  the  pots  should  stand  on  a  moist  base — coal  ashes 
is  the  beat  material — and  should  not  stand  too  c'osely  together,  which 
lacilitates  watering,  and  insures  a  freer  circulation  of  light  and  air. 
Place  a  light  stake  to  each  plant  in  order  to  keep  the  growth  straight. 
If  mildew  is  sh  wing,  dust  the  leaves  or  stems  on  which  it  appears 
with  flowers  of  sulphur.  Green  fly  can  generally  be  checked  by  tobacco 
powder  or  syringing  with  an  insecticide,  laying  the  plants  on  their 
sides.  This  pest  is  usually  troublesome  in  the  points  of  the  shoots. 
Small  caterpillars  may  also  be  fou' d  now  or  later  on,  binding  leaves 
together  with  a  web.  These  should  be  picked  out  and  destroyed. 
The  cuckoo  spit  insect,  too,  is  unsightly,  but  is  readily  located  and 
removed. 
Pinching,  or  taking  out  the  points  of  plants  to  induce  an  earlier 
break,  and  thus  secure  blooms  at  the  proper  time  for  the  shows,  is  an 
operation  which  is  carried  out  chiefly  in  April  and  May.  Amcng 
those  varieties  which  may  be  pinched  now  are  the  following  new 
Japanese  varieties : — Mrs.  Tom  Coles,  Madame  Von  Andr6,  Mrs.  A. 
Kerbey,  Mrs.  W.  Morgan,  C.  Arthur  Pearson,  W.  Adams,  Rivers  H. 
LangtoD,  Mrs.  I.  C  Waterhouse,  and  Mrs.  A.  H.  Hall.  When  the 
plants  break  into  growth,  select  three  of  the  best  growths,  and  secure 
the  first  crown  buds.  Other  Japanese  varieties  which  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  way  are  Hon.  W.  F.  D.  Smith,  Mary  Molyneux,  Sarah 
Bernhardt,  Royal  Standard,  Khama,  Crown  of  Gold,  General  Roberts, 
Edith  Tabor,  Australie,  Beauty  of  Adelaide,  C.  F.  Payne,  Royal 
Sovereign,  Sunstone,  Mutual  Friend,  Neva  Teichmann,  Mons.  Henri 
Capitant,  Mrs.  W.  H.  Lees,  M.  Demay-Taillandier,  Niveus,  and  Mons. 
Panckoucke. 
In  the  middle  of  May  the  following  new  varieties  may  be  pinched, 
taking  up  three  good  growths  from  each  plant  when  the  buds  break, 
and  secure  the  first  crown  which  produces  good  flowers : — Mrs.  G. 
Barnes,  Kate  Fairbairn,  Mrs.  A.  J.  B  iker.  Dr.  Hope,  Fair  Maid,  Edwin 
S  nitb,  Edith  Perkins,  Lili  Boutroy,  Elsie  Brown,  and  Mr.  A.  G. 
Miller.  Other  varieties  to  be  treated  the  same  include  R.  Hooper 
Pearson,  Dorothy  Spence,  George  Davis,  Hawarden  Castle,  Jane 
Molyneux,  Elia  Curtis,  Mrs.  E.  C.  Quick,  Joseph  Ctiamberlain,  Lord 
Cromer,  Sir  Herbert  Kitchener,  A.  H.  Wood,  J.  W.  Barks,  Duchess  of 
Wellington,  Geo.  W.  Childs,  John  Seward,  Mrs.  G.  Carpenter,  Modesto, 
Nyanzi,  Master  II.  Tucker,  Pride  of  Madford,  William  Bardney,  and 
Tatiana. 
Tbe  incurved  varieties  which  require  stopping  should  have  earlier 
treatment,  but  many  varieties  are  allowed  to  break  naturally,  and 
grown  on  to  first  crown  buds.  Some  of  the  varieties  may  have 
terminal  buds  selected.  Plants  in  small  pots  which  are  full  of  roots 
need  a  shift  now  into  5-inch*  and  6-inch  pots.  If  they  remain  pot- 
bound  they  will  run  up  tall,  and  be  comparatively  spoiled.  The 
c  impost  to  be  used  at  this  potting  should  be  good  and  substantial. 
Two  parts  of  good  fibrous  loam  broken  up  small,  one  part  of  leaf  soil 
Iree  from  worms,  stones,  or  sticks,  and  of  a  sweet  character,  half  a  part 
of  decayed  horse  manure,  with  a  good  admixture  of  sharp  sand  and 
cnarcoal.  Add  to  each  barrowful  of  this  a  6-inch  potful  of  bonemeal 
and  the  same  of  soot,  mixing  all  well  together.  If  allowed  to  lie 
together  for  a  few  days  it  will  be  all  the  better,  but  it  must  be  kept 
dry,  that  is,  not  exposed  to  a  soaking  rain.  It  requires,  however,  to 
be  moist  when  used  for  potting,  but  not  in  a  condition  that  moisture 
can  be  squeezed  out  of  it.  See  that  the  pots  are  clean,  and  drain 
them  in  an  efficient  manner,  covering  the  crocks  with  the  roughest 
parts  of  the  compost.  On  turning  the  plants  out  of  the  pots  remove 
the  drainage  from  the  base,  but  do  not  disturb  the  ball  more  than  is 
necessary.  Place  in  the  pot  to  the  desired  height,  and  fill  in  soil 
carefully  around,  working  it  down  with  a  blunt  stick,  making  it  as 
firm  as  the  ball  of  roots  introduced. 
If  the  plants  can  be  placed  in  a  deep  frame  for  a  few  days  after 
potting  it  will  bo  an  advantage,  syringing  them  daily,  but  not  giving 
a  copious  watering  until  several  days  have  elapsed,  so  long  as  the 
plants  remain  fresh  and  do  not  flag.  By  this  time  root  action  will 
have  commenced  into  the  new  soil.  Afford  also  more  air ;  when  growing 
freely  give  the  plants  a  fully  open  position,  with  ample  space  between 
them.  Afford  shelter  from  strong  winds.  If  carefully  and  thoroughly 
hardened  to  the  open  air,  and  receive  adequate  protection  from  the 
east  and  north-west,  the  May  frosts  will  not  be  so  likely  to  damage 
them.  Plants  for  decoration  are  pinched  several  times  in  the  course 
of  the  season  to  make  them  bushy.  The  free-growing  sorts  which 
produce  flowers  well  on  any  bud  are  the  most  suitable  (or  this  style  of 
culture.  The  reflexed  single  and  Pompon  varieties,  also  the  early 
flowering  Japanese  varieties,  respond  readily  to  the  treatment,  but  do 
not  pinch  alter  the  end  of  June,  by  which  time  a  serviceable  number 
of  shoots  should  be  secured,  each  of  which  will  produce  one  good 
flower,  or  a  cluster,  according  to  the  variety. 
Outdoor  Chrysanthemums. 
The  summer-flowering  varieties  should  be  planted  out  in  the  open 
as  soon  as  possible.  Give  them  a  fairly  open  position  and  good  soil. 
If  planted  in  rows  2  feet  apart  they  will  have  ample  room  for  extension. 
In  dry  weather  water  until  well  established,  and  loosen  the  s  il 
frequently  with  the  hoe,  mainly  to  keep  down  weeds,  and  the  soil 
nicely  warmed,  which  will  promote  growth  Madame  Desgranges, 
Madame  Marie  Massee,  Ambrose  Thomas,  Barbara  Forbes,  Crimson 
Marie  Massee,  Crimson  Pride,  Harvest  Home,  Lady  Fitzwigram, 
Mytchett  White,  Nellie  Brown,  Bluffiing  Bride,  Fiberta,  Madame 
E.  Lefort,  Martinmas,  Mr.  Selley,  Strathmeath.  The  last  six  mentioned 
are  early  flowering  Pompons;  the  others  are  Japanese  varieties.  In 
October  they  all  make  a  beautiful  display,  and  the  flowers  are  invalu¬ 
able  for  cutting.  The  plants  becoming  well  es’ablishel  pass  through 
the  winter  well,  and  prove  more  serviceable  still  another  season. 
— E.  D.  S. 
- - 
Societies. 
Royal  Horticultural— Drill  Hall,  lay  7tlj. 
Scientific  Committee. 
Present :  Dr.  M.  T.  Masters  (in  the  ohair)  ;  Messrs.  Houston , 
Bowles,  Hogg,  Reade,  Chapman,  Douglas,  Worsdell,  O’Brien,  Saunders, 
Groom,  Holmes,  Elwes,  Michael;  Rev.  W.  Wilks,  Prof.  Boulger,  Prof. 
Church,  Rev.  C.  Wolley-Dod,  Dr.  M.  C.  Cooke,  Dr.  Muller,  Rev. 
G.  Henslow,  Hon.  Sec. 
Beetroot  tumour  and  Scliinus  molle,  ivith  galls. — Dr.  M.  C.  Cooke 
reported  as  follows  upon  the  specimens  sent  to  the  last  meeting  : — 
‘‘  Two  objects  were  exhibited  at  the  last  meeting,  concerning  which  no 
satisfactory  explanation  could  be  given  at  the  time,  for  the  simple 
reason  that,  as  far  as  I  am  aware,  they  had  never  made  their  appearance 
in  this  country  before.  The  first  of  these  was  a  Beetroot  with  a  large 
fleshy  excrescence,  which  at  the  time  I  pronounced  to  be  a  tumour  of  a 
similar  character  to  that  which  affects  Turnips  and  Cabbages.  At  the 
moment  I  only  remembered  a  figure  I  had  seen  of  what  appeared  to 
be  the  same  thing,  and  I  was  under  the  impression  that  the  swelling 
was  produoed  by  a  kind  of  slime  fungus,  or  Plasmodiophora.  Neverthe¬ 
less  I  spoke  guardedly,  and  took  home  the  specimen  for  examination, 
with  the  following  results.  The  tumour  is  a  somewhat  globose  nodule 
on  the  side  of  the  root,  about  the  size  and  form  of  a  Tangierine  Orange, 
attached  to  the  root  by  a  narrow  neck,  scarcely  an  inch  in  diameter. 
When  the  root  was  cut  down  the  substance  of  the  tumour  did  not  seem 
to  differ  from  that  of  the  root;  the  pale  zones  on  the  side  next  th9 
swelling  passed  into  the  tumour,  traversed  it  concentrically,  with 
something  of  the  appearance  which  a  transverse  section  of  the  root 
would  exhibit.  At  the  periphery  darker  spots  appeared,  just  below  the 
surface,  which  were  nearly  black,  and  mostly  with  a  small  central 
cavity.  The  walls  of  this  cavity  and  the  blackened  part  generally  were 
traversed  by  a  delicate  network  of  myoelium,  but  I  could  find  no  trace 
of  spores,  or  conidia,  or  fruit  of  any  kind  in  the  cavities.  I  may  add 
that  externally  the  tumour  showed  no  discolouration  or  other  evidence 
of  the  concealed  blackened  spots.  The  reference  which  was  on  my 
mind  when  I  first  saw  the  root  was  a  short  note  in  Masses’s  ‘  Plant 
Diseases  *  (page  225),  in  which  he  calls  it  *  Beetroot  tumour,’  and 
says  that  it  occurred  in  the  grounds  of  the  School  of  Agriculture, 
near  Algiers,  and  before  that  time  was  unknown.  This  must  have  been 
about  seven  years  ago.  It  is  thus  described  :  1  Large  nodulose  or 
brain-like  outgrowths  develop  near  the  apex  of  the  root,  and  may 
consist  of  modified  leaves  or  rootlets  ;  the  tumours  are  fleshy,  attached 
to  the  root  by  a  short  narrow  neck,  and  in  the  substance  are  numerous 
cavities  filled  with  dark-ooloured  spores.  Tne  spores  are  subglobose, 
produced  at  the  apex  of  a  hypha,  which  bears  a  large  vesicular  swelling 
