May  16,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
423 
least  a  phase  of  it.  It  is  only  first-class  gardeners  who  can  draw  out 
the  best  that  a  garden  has  to  give,  and  make  it  enjoyable  to  the  fullest. 
The  moral  character,  the  industry,  and  the  happiness  of  gardeners  or 
any  other  class  of  workers  cannot  but  be  raised  when  they  have  had 
the  advantage  of  education.  One  of  the  greatest  scholars  of  the  past 
expressed  his  conviction  that  a  well  equipped  library  is  the  best 
university  in  these  days.  Here  is  the  list  : — 
Journal  of  Horticulture,  1896 — 1900  I 
The  Garden,  1896 — 1900 
Gardeners’  Chronicle,  1896 — 1900 
Gardeners’  Magazine,  1896—1900 
Gardening  World,  1898—1899 
Gardening,  1880 — 1897 
Century  Book  of  Gardening 
Fruit  Growers’  Guide  (J.  Wright) 
Flower  Growers’  Guide  (J.  Wright) 
Book  of  Choice  Ferns  (Schneider) 
Nicholson’s  Dictionary  of  Gardening 
Low’s  Practical  Agriculture 
Loudon’s  Encycloptedia 
Loudon’s  Trees  and  Shrubs  of 
Great  Britain 
Rhind’s  Vegetable  Kingdom 
Robinson’s  English  Flower  Garden 
Manual  of  Orchidaceous  Plants 
(J.  Veitch  &  Sons) 
Loudon’s  Encyclopaedia  of  Garden- 
in  g 
Williams’  Orchid  Growers’  Manual  j 
Rustic  Adornments  (Shirley  Hib-  | 
berd) 
Vilmorin’s  Vegetable  Garden 
Manual  of  Coniferce  (Veitch) 
Culture  of  Vegetables  and  Flowers  | 
(Sutton) 
Greenhouse  and  Stove  Plants  i 
(Baines) 
Lindley’s  Vegetable  Kingdom 
The  Wild  Garden  (Robinson) 
Paxton’s  Botanical  Dictionary 
Knight’s  Horticultural  Papers 
How  the  Farm  Pays 
Orchid  Seekers  in  Borneo  (A.  Rush- 
more  and  F.  Boyle) 
Propagation  and  Improvement  of 
Cultivated  Plants  (Bnrbidge) 
Elements  of  Botany  (Lindley) 
Lindley’s  Theory  of  Horticulture 
Webster’s  Practical  Forestry 
Bog  Myrtle  and  Peat  (S.  R.  Crokett)  I 
Domestic  Horticulture  (Bnrbidge) 
Self  Instruction  for  Young  Gar-  | 
deners 
Choice  Stove  and  Greenhouse  Plants  I 
Beeton’s  Dictionary  of  Every  Day  j 
Gardening 
The  Amateur’s  Greenhouse 
Carpenter’s  Vegetable  Physiology 
The  Name  Garden 
The  Amateurs’  Flower  Garden 
Hardy  Flowers  (Robinson) 
Principles  of  Gardening  (G.  W.  ! 
Johnson) 
Mawe’s  Every  Man  His  Own 
Gardener 
Rivers’  Rose  Amateurs’  Guide 
Henslow’s  Botany 
Johnson’s  Kitchen  and  Flower 
Garden 
British  Ferns  (Johnson) 
Paxton’s  Botanical  Dictionary 
Culture  of  Vine  Under  Glass  | 
(Roberts) 
Dr.  Hogg’s  Fruit  Manual 
Johnson’s  Dictionary  of  English  j 
Gardening 
Dr.  Lindley’s  School  Botany 
Indo-Malayan  Species  of  Quercus  j 
and  Castanopsis 
Neill’s  Gardening 
Gleanings  in  Old  Garden  Literature 
The  Garden  Calender 
Principles  of  Plant  Culture 
Fruit  Culture  for  Amateurs  (S.  T. 
Wright) 
Carnations  and  Picotees  (W.  H. 
Weguelin) 
Cactus  Culture  for  Amateurs 
(W.  Watson) 
Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening  (T.  W. 
Sanders) 
Quick  Fruit  Culture  (Simpson) 
Handbook  of  Orchard  and  Bush 
Fruit  Insects  (Ormerod) 
The  Book  of  Gardening 
Gardening  in  Sussex 
Gardening  for  Beginners  (E.  T. 
Cook) 
Geometrical  Drawing 
Downing’s  Cottage  Residences 
Bees  and  Bee  Keeping 
Dictionary  of  the  Farm 
Manures 
Rural  Chemistry 
Dix’s  Land  Surveying 
Jopling’s  Isometrical  Perspective 
Spark's  Introduction  to  Chemistry 
Euclid’s  Elements  of  Geometry 
Liebeg’s  Chemistry  of  Agriculture 
and  Physiology 
Encyclopedia  Britannica 
Windsor  Magazine,  1895 — 1900 
English  Illus.  Mag.,  1896 — 1900 
Strand  Magazine,  1896 — 1900 
Pearson’s  Magazine,  1897—1900 
Cassell’s  Magazine,  1897 — 1900 
The  Bosphorus  and  Danube 
History  of  India 
Lives  of  Engineers 
Hallowed  Spots  of  Ancient  London 
Memoirs  of  Norman  McLeod 
Fair  France 
Sunday  Magazine 
Good  Words 
Little  Britain 
Successful  Business  Men 
Layard’s  Early  Adventures 
The  W  orld  of  the  Sea 
Within  the  Arctic  Circle 
Princess  Alice 
Royal  Characters  from  Sir  Walter 
Scott 
Hard  Times  and  Pictures  from  Italy 
The  Uncommercial  Traveller 
Old  Curiosity  Shop  (Dickens) 
Dombey  and  Son  (Dickens) 
Nicholas  Nickleby  (Dickens) 
Tale  of  Two  Cities  (Dickens) 
Barnaby  Rudge  (Dickens) 
Pickwick  Papers  (Dickens) 
Bleak  House  (Dickens) 
Christmas  Books  (Dickens) 
Martin  Clmzzlewit  (Dickens) 
Sketches  by  Boz  (Dickens) 
Great  Expectations  (Dickens) 
David  Copperfield  (Dickens) 
Little  Dorrit  (Dickens) 
Our  Mutual  Friend  (Dickens) 
A  Child’s  History  of  England 
Edwin  Drood 
American  Notes  and  Reprinted 
Pieces 
Journals  of  Maj.-Gen.  Gordon  at 
Khartoum 
A  Voyage  in  the  Sunbeam 
Chambers’  Information 
New  America 
Popular  Scientific  Recreation 
Burns’  Poems 
Cassell’s  Popular  Educator 
Our  Mutual  Friend 
A  Trip  to  the  Tropics 
Highlands  of  Central  India 
Universal  Instructor 
New  Homes  for  the  Old  Country 
English  Sacred  Poetry 
Life  and  Work  of  the  Seventh  Earl 
of  Shaftesbury- 
Early  Years  of  Prince  Consort 
Wreck  of  the  Hesperus 
Peroycross 
Tour  of  the  World  in  Eighty  Days 
Penshurst  Castle 
Columbus 
Industrial  Great  Britain 
The  Manxman 
How  I  Found  Livingstone  in  Central 
Africa 
Men  of  Might 
The  Ebb  Tide 
My  Lady  Rotha 
Wordsworth’s  Sermons 
Marmion 
Footprints  of  Famous  Men 
Night  and  Morning 
The  Statesman’s  Year  Book 
Borrow's  Lavengro 
Our  English  Minstrels 
Borrow’s  Bible  in  Spain 
Scott’s  Poetical  vVorks 
Dodd’s  Beauties  of  Shakespeare 
More  Leaves  from  the  Journal  of  a 
Life  in  the  Highlands 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Wall  Trees. — Removing  Protecting  Material. — Nets  or  other  temporary 
coverings  suspended  for  drawing  over  choice  wall  trees,  when  the 
olimatical  conditions  are  unpropitious  for  the  flowers  or  fruit,  are  now, 
owing  to  the  advance  of  the  season,  unnecessary.  Movable  coping 
boards  projecting  over  the  trees  should  also  be  removed,  as  they  prevent 
the  free  descent  of  rain  upon  the  trees. 
Instct  Pests. — The  retention  of  protection  often  induces  the  increase 
of  aphides,  owing  to  the  confined  conditions  ;  these  should  be  destroyed 
by  dusting  with  tobacco  powder  from  an  indiarubber  distributor. 
Blighted  leaves  usually  provide  a  good  hiding  place  for  aphides  ;  these 
must  be  dealt  with  by  removing  the  worst  affected  leaves,  or  dispensing 
with  the  whole  shoot.  This  evil  is  caused  by  cold  easterly  winds  acting 
injuriously  on  the  foliage.  Caterpillars  whioh  roll  themselves  in  Apricot 
leaves  must  be  ciushed,  or  the  leaf  unrolled  and  the  larvae  removed. 
When  the  young  growths  of  Cherries  begin  to  extend,  colonies  of  black 
fly  take  possession  in  many  cases,  and  should  be  destroyed  by  dipping 
in  a  solution  of  quassia  chips  and  tobacco  water.  Currants  and 
Goosebenies  growing  against  walls  or  fences  may  be  treated  with 
tobacco  powder  for  aphides,  and  with  soot  or  lime  for  caterpillars. 
Syringing. — In  settled  warm  weather  daily  syringing  of  the  foliage 
may  be  resorted  to,  carrying  it  out  towards  evening,  when  the  sun’s 
power  is  declining.  The  water  helps  to  dislodge  insects,  and  cleanses 
the  foliage  from  dust,  the  trees  from  dead  petals,  and  fruits  that  fail  to 
swell.  If  attacks  of  red  spider  are  probable,  sulphur  may  be  mixed  in 
the  water,  and  this,  deposited  on  the  leaves,  especially  the  under  sides, 
is  obnoxious  to  the  insects,  and  prevents  their  establishment. 
Watering. — A  dry  condition  of  the  soil  at  the  roots  of  fruit  trees  is 
responsible  for  many  evils  in  connection  with  their  cultivation.  Aphis 
or  green  fly  is  usually  more  troublesome  when  the  soil  is  very  dry  at  the 
foot  of  walls.  Dry  soil  alters  the  character  of  the  roots  to  a  large 
extent,  causing  the  strong  roots  to  descend  into  the  subsoil  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  more  moisture,  while  fibrous  roots  scarcely  exist 
at  all.  A  more  equable  state  of  the  soil  as  regards  moisture  tends  to 
increase  fibrous  and  feeding  roots  in  the  surface  soil,  promoting  a 
healthy  and  fruitful  condition  ;  hence,  where  the  soil  is  at  all  dry, 
apply  a  copious  quantity  of  water  to  moisten  2  feet  in  depth,  and  3  feet 
or  more  in  width.  An  application  of  liquid  manure  after  the  soaking  of 
water  will  enrich  the  soil.  The  fxuit  will  swell  better,  and  the  growth 
of  weakly  trees  will  be  improved.  Young  and  newly  planted  trees 
require  the  soil  to  be  kept  moist.  This  may  be  done  by  a  few 
applications  at  intervals  during  dry  periods. 
Mulching. — After  watering,  the  moisture  will  quickly  evaporate  if 
some  dry  material  is  not  placed  on  the  surface  to  arrest  the  loss. 
A  mulching,  therefore,  of  short,  decayed,  lumpy  manure  is  the  best  to 
apply,  spreading  it  2  inches  thick. 
Disbudding,  Thinning  Shoots. — The  disbudding  of  surplus  shoots  is 
still  necessary.  Remove  those  that  are  thickly  placed  and  of  unsuit¬ 
able  character.  It  is  not  desirable  to  retain  thick  gross  shoots,  but  it  is 
essential  that  a  good  basal  growth  on  bearing  shoots  be  encouraged, 
also  a  leading  growth  above  the  fruit.  Where  growths  are  too  long  for 
disbudding  they  must  be  removed  by  cutting  them  out.  A  preliminary 
laying-in  or  training  will  give  a  good  idea  as  to  which  shoots  require 
removal. 
Thinning  Fruit. — If  a  good  set  of  fruit  has  been  secured,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  commence  thinning  when  the  individual  fruits  are 
attaining  to  a  fair  size.  First  of  all  remove  the  small,  ill  plaoed,  aud 
duplicate  fruits ;  next  the  smallest  of  those  remaining  which  have  not 
swelled  well,  after  an  interval  of  a  few  weeks;  finally  leaving  the  fruits 
at  a  distance  apart  of  10  inches,  but  the  last  thinning  should  take  place 
after  the  stoning  period.  A  liberal  crop  may  be  left  on  strong  growing 
trees,  but  on  weakly  trees  apportion  the  crop  to  the  capabilities  of  the 
branches,  some  of  which  will  carry  more  than  others.  A  good  crop 
helps  to  keep  down  rampant  growth. 
Training  Young  Fruit  Trees.  —  Although,  with  trained  trees  and 
bushes  in  the  open,  disbudding  is  not  practised  to  the  same  extent  as 
with  stone  fruits  on  walls,  yet  considerable  benefit  accrues  if  some 
endeavour  is  made  to  regulate  suitable  growths  in  their  proper  positions 
by  a  process  of  selection.  This  will  consist  in  retaining  the  shoots  that 
promise  to  extend  in  the  desired  direction,  and  which  are  at  the  same 
time  of  a  proper  degree  of  vigour.  Strong  shoots  frequently  start  from 
various  parts  of  tiees  and  bushes  quite  unexpectedly,  and  are  of  a 
sappy  character.  These  may  invariably  be  dispensed  with,  rubbing 
them  out  when  small,  or  cutting  them  clean  out  with  a  sharp  knife 
after  they  have  advanced  to  a  good  length.  Tne  former  is  the  best 
method  if  their  ultimate  charaoter  can  be  determined  upon  early 
enough.  This  eaily  treatment  prevents  overcrowding  in  summer, 
therefore  the  selected  growths  have  an  excellent  chance  of  receiving 
the  full  benefit  of  light  aud  air,  and  thereby  becoming  well  ripened 
