424 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  16,  1901. 
In  addition,  a  better  shaped  tree  or  bush  is  secured,  and  an  excellent 
foundation  laid  for  building  up  the  proper  number  of  main  branches. 
Feeding  Gooseberries. — The  flowering  period  being  over,  and  a  good 
set  of  fruit  secured,  a  good  mnlohing  of  manure  spread  over  the  roots, 
followed  by  a  copious  soaking  of  liquid  manure  or  a  dressing  of  artificial 
manures,  watered  in,  will  largely  assist  in  inducing  the  fruit  to  swell 
quickly  to  a  useable  size. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — Cherries  are  ripening  rapidly  in  the  house  brought 
forward  gently  from  the  early  part  of  the  year,  and  the  fruit  must  be 
kept  dry ;  but  air  moisture  is  neoessary  for  the  health  of  the  trees,  and 
may  be  secured  by  damping  the  border  occasionally  with  the  syringe, 
air  being  admitted  constantly,  or  condensation  will  seriously  affect  the 
fruit.  Sprinkling  the  border  is  apt  to  mislead  as  regards  its  condition, 
which  at  this  stage  must  be  kept  moist;  therefore,  if  necessary,  a  thorough 
supply  of  water  must  be  afforded  without  delay.  Tie-in  the  shoots  as 
they  lengthen,  and  stop  those  not  required  for  training  at  the  fifth  leaf. 
Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Netting  will  be  neoessary 
over  the  ventilators. 
Cucumbers. — Remove  exhausted  plants,  and  put  the  house  into  a 
state  of  thorough  cleanliness.  Assist  young  plants  showing  signs  of 
weakness,  by  removing  the  staminate  flowers  and  first  fruits,  stopping 
at  every  third  or  fourth  joint,  and  remove  all  weakly  and  surplus 
growths.  Plants  in  bearing  will  require  copious  supplies  of  water  and 
liquid  manure,  or  top-dressiDgs  of  fertiliser  washed  in  moderately. 
Extra  vigour  may  be  secured  by  employing  a  little  nitrate  of  soda  in 
the  water,  but  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water, 
besides  which,  it  acts  well  against  eelworm.  It  is  better  to  mix  the 
nitrate  of  soda  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  say  1  lb.  to  a  gallon,  and 
let  stand  a  short  time,  then  add  a  quarter  pint  of  the  solution  to  each 
4  gallons  of  water  employed  for  watering.  This  is  only  one-eighth 
ounce  of  nitrate  of  soda  to  a  gallon  of  water,  but  it  gives  excellent 
results  in  both  quantity  and  colour  of  fruit,  and  the  quantity  can  be 
increased  to  a  quarter,  or  even  half  an  ounce,  to  a  gallon  of  water,  as 
the  plants  endure  stronger  doses  as  they  become  accustomed  to  the 
applications. 
Shading  will  be  necessary  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the 
day.  Houses  with  the  roof-lights  facing  east  and  west  will  not  require 
shading.  Syringe  the  plants  moderately  between  3  and  4  P.M.,  or 
earlier  in  case  of  the  sun  decreasing  in  power,  and  keep  a  moist  atmo¬ 
sphere  by  damping  the  floors.  If  aphides  appear  fumigate  or  vaporise 
on  a  calm  evening,  and  repeat  early  the  following  morning,  having  the 
foliage  dry,  but  the  floors  well  damped.  This  is  equally  effective  against 
thrips.  Thomson’s  or  Clay’s  fertiliser,  1  lb.  in  20  gallons  of  water, 
strained  before  use,  may  be  used  occasionally  to  charge  the  atmosphere 
with  ammonia  vapour,  or  liquid  manure  from  stables  or  cowhouses, 
diluted  with  five  or  six  times  its  bulk  of  water,  may  be  used  for  the 
same  purpose,  applying  in  the  evening.  Either  may  be  applied  to  the 
roots  about  twice  a  week,  the  plantB  not  being  allowed  to  suffer  through 
insufficient  supplies  of  water  and  nourishment  in  available  form. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  to  ocoupy  pits  and  frames.  A  fair  amount  of 
bottom  heat  should  be  secured  by  using  the  less  decomposed  material 
from  Seakale,  Vine  borders,  or  exhausted  hotbeds,  which,  with  about  a 
fourth  of  fresh  material,  will  afford  all  the  bottom  heat  now  required. 
Afford  a  good  top  and  bottom  heat  by  duly  renewing  the  linings. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  very 
early  varieties,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  atffi  Early  Louise  Peaches, 
Advance,  and  Cardinal  Nectarines,  are  ripening  or  ripe,  and  must  not 
be_  syriDged.  Second  early  sorts,  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  and 
Stirling  Castle  Peaches,  with  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  and  Goldoni 
Nectarines,  will  shortly  commence  ripening.  Midseason  kinds,  such 
as  Royal  George,  Dymond,  Crimson  Galande,  Grosse  Mignonne,  and 
Bellegarde  Peaches;  Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt,  and  Dryden 
Nectarines,  will  have  completed  the  stoning  process,  and  be  taking  the 
last  swelling,  it  not  being  advisable  to'  subject  them  to  a  higher 
temperature  until  that  is  insured  than  60°  to  65°  by  artificial  means, 
commencing  to  ventilate  at  65°,  and  not  allowing  70°  to  be  exceeded 
without  full  ventilation.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as  they  advance,  removing 
superfluous  growths.  Allow  one  fruit  to  each  square  foot  of  trellis. 
After  stoning  maintain  a  good  moisture  in  the  house,  and  water  the 
inside  border  copiously,  mulching  the  surface  with  a  little  short  spent 
manure.  Unless  it  is  desired  to  accelerate  the  ripening  continue  60°  to 
65  as  the  night,  and  65°  as  the  artificial  day  temperature,  in  dull 
weather,  and  75°  with  sun  heat,  closing  at  the  latter  with  plenty  of 
moisture  in  the  house. 
Late  Houses.— The  crops  in  these  and  unheated  houses  are  abundant. 
A  moderate  syringing  on  fine  mornings  is  a  great  aid  in  the  matter  of 
cleanliness  and  maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  but 
in  unheated  houses  there  must  be  no  attempt  at  an  afternoon  syringing 
for  the  present,  and  no  sprinkling  practised  likely  to  cause  a  moist 
atmosphere  at  night.  Ventilate  at  50°,  not  allowing  an  advance  to  65° 
without  full  ventilation,  and  close  at  50°,  or  before  if  there  is  a  prospect 
of  frost  at  night.  If  water  be  necessary  apply  it  sufficiently  early  in 
the  day  to  allow  of  the  surface  becoming  fairly  dry  before  closing 
time. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — When  moisture  is  lacking  at  the  roots  of 
these  plants  and  the  sun  is  powerful  the  fruits  are  apt  to  have  the  skin 
dried,  and  they  do  not  swell  afterwards  in  a  satisfactory  manner. 
This  and  due  supplies  of  liquid  manure,  with  a  genial  condition  of  the 
atmosphere,  is  essential  to  insure  good  fruits,  but  after  the  fruit 
commences  ripening  a  rather  drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere  is 
desirable,  also  lessened  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots.  Admit  air  freely 
when  the  weather  is  favourable.  Fumigate  if  there  be  the  least  traces 
of  aphides,  but  avoid  doing  so  whilst  the  plants  are  in  flower. 
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London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
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trouble  and  expense. 
Address  ( Subscriber ). — The  address  of  the  paper  you  name  is 
8,  Dane’s  Inn,  Strand,  London,  W.C. 
Adiantum  Capillus-Veneris  in  Cornwall  (IV.). — This  Fern  is  a 
native  of  Britain,  and  is  found  in  a  wild  state  in  many  places  besides 
Cornwall. 
Pelargonium  Duchess  of  Teok  (R.  M.). — R9gal  Pelargonium  Duchess 
of  Teck  is  a  sport  from  Madame  Thibaut,  and  it  is  just  possible  it  may 
have  sported  back  to  its  parent,  but  as  no  section  of  Pelargonium 
continues  to  sport  so  much  as  this  class  it  may  be  quite  new,  but  it  is 
rarely  we  get  much  away  from  the  beautiful  ones  we  already  have. 
Sparmannia  africana  (A.  B.  N.). — The  plants  will  do  very  well  out 
of  doors  during  the  summer.  They  ought  not  to  be  at  any  time  dried 
off.  Repot  at  once  if  the  pots  are  at  present  crowded  with  roots. 
Cuttings  may  be  struck  at  the  present  time,  or  indeed  at  any  period 
throughout  the  summer.  Keep  them  in  a  temperature  of  65°  until 
they  are  well  into  new  growth,  whence  they  may  be  potted,  and 
afterwards  receive  equal  treatment  with  the  older  plants.  Take  them 
indoors  in  September. 
Cutting  Down  Heaths  (D.  M.). — Only  the  softwooded  kinds,  such 
as  E.  Willmoreana  and  E.  hyemalis,  should  be  cut  down  after  flowering, 
and  these  not  too  closely.  Hardwooded  Heaths  must  have  no  such 
pruning  as  you  imply,  but  when  growing  freely  the  young  growths  may 
be  occasionally  pinched  early  in  the  season  to  induce  a  greater  number 
of  flowering  points.  The  pinching  must  not  be  done  without  due 
thought  and  consideration  as  to  the  state  of  each  plant  and  the  habit  of 
the  variety.  Perhaps  Mr.  J.  Coutt’s  notes  at  page  340  were  of  service 
to  you. 
Sidalcea  Candida  ( D .  F.  T.). — The  plant  is  a  native  of  Colorado,  and 
though  perennial,  it  is  yet  advisable  to  raise  a  fresh  stock  from  seeds 
each  year.  These  may  be  sown  in  pans,  to  be  placed  in  a  temperature 
ranging  between  55°  and  60°.  When  the  seedlings  are  up  prick  them 
off,  and  plant  out  at  the  end  of  May  or  beginning  of  June.  A  good 
garden  soil  and  sunny  position  suits  it.  There  is  no  absolute  necessity 
to  protect  the  plant  during  winter,  though  you  could  do  as  is  done 
with  Kniphofias — that  is,  cover  the  crowns  with  rough  leaf  mould. 
Division  of  the  roots  is  also  practised  at  this  season. 
Thinning  Fruit  Tree  Blossom  (R.  Tait).  —  The  operation  is  very 
frequently  an  absolute  necessity.  A  plethora  of  blossom  does  not 
augur  a  sure  and  heavy  set  of  fruit,  rather  the  opposite,  as  a  rule.  If 
your  trees  are  in  robust  health  they  will  probably  set  more  fruit  than 
it  would  be  advisable  to  allow  them  to  carry.  Hence  it  would  be  well 
were  you  to  thin  out  the  weakly  or  overcrowded  flowers  at  the  present 
time.  Of  course,  where  large  orchards  exist,  or  in  large  undermanned 
gardens,  it  is  not  possible  to  attempt  the  thinning  of  fruit  blossom. 
Amateurs  with  leisure  and  a  small  number  of  trees  ought,  however,  to 
give  every  detail  the  attention  it  deserves  or  demands. 
Sulphate  of  Ammonia  and  Nitrate  of  Soda  (/.  R.  T.). — The  quantity 
to  the  plants  in  pots  must  vary  with  the  kinds  of  plants  cultivated,  and 
their  condition.  Half  an  ounoe  to  the  gallon  of  water  of  either  of  these 
fertilisers  is  sufficient  for  Chrysanthemums  in  full  growth,  and  much 
less  will  suffice  for  most  softwooded  plants.  Liquid  manure  should  not 
be  given  until  the  pots  are  full  of  roots  and  the  soil  is  beooming  taxed 
to  supply  the  necessary  nutriment.  Instead  of  using  soot  in  conjunction 
with  the  fertilisers  named,  we  should  use  them  alternately.  For 
dressing  outdoor  crops,  such  as  Onions,  with  nitrate  of  soda,  1  oz.  to 
oz  sprinkled  on  each  square  yard  of  soil  between  the  plants  will  be 
sufficient.  It  is  best  applied  during  showery  weather. 
