444 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  23,  1901. 
Parsnips,  Lettuce,  and  Parsley,  also  seed  beds  containing  Broccoli. 
Savoys,  Borecole,  Cauliflower,  and  Cabbage-  Where  the  plants  are  yet 
small  too  free  thinning  should  not  be  carried  out,  except  where  there  is 
an  approach  to  a  crowded  condition  of  the  seedlings.  The  spaces 
between  the  rows  may  be  lightly  stirred  with  a  Dutch  hoe,  thus 
destroying  weeds  and  promoting  growth.  Onions  and  Carrots  especially 
may  be  lightly  dusted  with  soot  as  a  check  against  the  fly,  which  does 
injury  when  the  crops  are  in  a  young  state  by  depositing  eggs  on  the 
plants,  which  hatch  into  maggots. 
Potatoes. — As  soon  as  the  tops  of  the  Potatoes  are  through  the  soil, 
so  as  to  define  the  rows,  ply  the  Dutch  hoe  between,  as  simultaneously 
with  the  growth  of  the  tubers  weeds  also  make  rapid  progress.  If  the 
hoeing,  however,  is  done  on  a  fine  sunny  morning,  all  the  weeds  will  be 
dead  before  evening.  Before  too  much  top  growth  is  made  earth  up 
the  rows. 
Celery. — The  trenches  for  the  Celery  crop  should  be  prepared  ;  a 
piece  of  ground  from  which  Broccoli  or  Winter  Greens  have  been 
cleared  is  suitable.  Mark  out  the  trenches  5  feet  apart,  the  width 
may  be  15  inches.  Cut  down  each  side  with  a  spade,  having  a  line 
stretched  along  to  insure  a  straight  out ;  remove  the  soil  to  the  depth 
of  a  spit,  take  out  the  loose  soil,  and  place  in  6  inches  of  rotted 
manure,  which  partly  bury  by  digging  in,  placing  some  good  soil 
on  surface  to  plant  in.  When  finished  the  trench  will  be  shallow, 
but  sufficiently  deep  to  hold  water  about  the  plants.  For  an  early 
crop  the  plants  may  be  placed  out 
now  in  single  rows,  lifting  the 
strongest  for  the  purpose,  with 
good  balls  of  soil  and  roots.  The 
white  varieties  are  good  for  early 
crops, being  more  quickly  blanched 
when  grown  large  enough.  Seed¬ 
lings  from  a  late  sowing  should 
be  pricked  out  on  a  bed  of  soil  on 
a  spent  hotbed. 
Beans. — Broad  Beans  and  Dwarf 
French  Beans  may  have  soil  drawn 
to  them  on  both  sides  of  rows,  this 
steadying  the  plants  somewhat. 
Sow  more  seed  of  the  latter,  as 
well  as  Scarlet  Runners.  The 
advanced  rows  of  Runners  should 
have  tall  stakes  placed  to  them. 
Peas.  —  Make  another  liberal 
sowing  of  main  crop  varieties, 
including  Champion  of  England) 
G.  F.  Wilson,  and  Veitch’s  Perfec¬ 
tion.  Place  sticks  to  all  rows  as 
soon  as  the  Peas  are  well  above 
the  soil.  In  dry  weather  afford 
water  to  the  early  rows.  Keep 
down  weeds,  and  the  surface  soil 
loose  on  each  side  of  rows. 
Turnips. —  Make  a  sowing  of 
White  Stone  or  Early  Snowball 
Turnips.  The  soil  should  be  rich. 
Sprinkle  a  dressing  of  superphos¬ 
phate  along  the  drills  previous  to 
sowing,  but  should  the  weather  be  hot  and  dry,  light  soil  must  be 
watered,  soaking  the  drills. 
Lettuce. — Plant  out  the  thinnings  from  the  Lettuce  beds  6  inches 
apart  on  Celery  ridges  or  other  position  where  the  soil  is  good.  Make 
a  further  sowing  of  both  Cos  and  Cabbage  varieties  in  drills  12  inches 
apart. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — Plant  out  those  raised  early  and  pricked  out  in 
boxes,  from  whioh  they  can  be  transferred  with  good  balls  of  roots; 
2J  feet  of  space  between  the  rows  is  not  too  much  for  this  crop,  the 
plants  being  18  inches  apart.  If  raised  outdoors  it  will  be  necessary 
to  transplant  them  4  inches  apart  in  order  to  strengthen  them  for  the 
final  planting. 
Cauliflowers. — The  earliest  varieties  ought  now  to  be  finally  planted, 
selecting  rich  ground  and  an  open  position.  They  should  lift  with  good 
balls  of  soil  and  roots,  either  from  boxes  or  frames.  Plant  about 
14  inches  apart,  in  rows  2  feet  asunder.  Allow  the  larger-growing 
Autumn  Giants  more  room.  Prick  out  seedlings  of  the  latter  4  inches 
apart  to  strengthen  for  later  planting. 
Broccoli. — Sow  seed  of  the  latest  varieties  of  these,  such  as  Cattell’s 
Eclipse,  Late  Queen,  and  Veitch’s  Model.  Main  crop  varieties,  such  as 
Snow’s  Winter  White,  Veitoh’s  Self-Protecting,  Leamington,  now  in  the 
seed  beds,  should  be  transplanted  a  few  inches  apart. 
Tomatoes. —  Plant  out  against  a  sunny  wall  or  fence  some  strong 
plain  8  of  approved  outdoor  varieties,  these  including  Laxton’s  Open 
Air,  Earliest  of  All,  and  Large  Red.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  establish 
some  plants  in  pots  outdoors,  growing  them  in  a  convenient  situation, 
and  taking  plants  indoors  in  autumn. 
Vegetable  Marrows. — Good  plants  may  now  be  planted  out  either 
in  the  open  garden  in  rioh  soil,  or  on  prepared  positions  on  heaps  of 
decomposed  leaves  or  vegetable  matter.  Give  slight  protection  for  a 
time  until  established. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12 ,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Gerbera  Jamesoni  ( J .  C.  S.). — This  is  a  South  African  native,  and 
though  it  is  a  charming  subject  we  cannot  confidently  recommend 
it  to  you.  As  regards  soil  and  position,  its  requirements  demand 
consideration.  It  does  not  succeed  on  cold  damp  soils,  and  it  is  hardy 
only  in  the  mildest  localities.  It  is  usually  grown  as  a  cool  greenhouse 
pot  plant  with  plenty  of  light  arid  air,  in  a  compost  of  sandy  loam  and 
peat.  Seeds  sown  now  in  gentle 
heat  would  furnish  a  supply  of 
plants.  It  grows  15  mches  to  18 
inches  high,  and  bears  solitary 
heads  of  glowing  scarlet  flowers 
3  inches  across,  and  having  an 
orange  diso  or  oentre.  It  is  a 
Composite.  For  price  apply  to 
any  of  the  hardy  plant  growers 
who  advertise  in  our  columns. 
Wood  for  Fruit  Shelves  (E.W.  E.)  ■ 
— The  wood  to  be  used  for  fruit 
shelves  must  be  dry,  thoroughly 
seasoned,  and  not  likely  to  contract 
dampness  about  it.  There  should 
be  no  liability  for  it  to  transmit 
taint  to  the  fruit.  As  a  rule,  ash 
or  beech  is  preferable ;  but  resinous 
and  gummy  pine  woods  should 
be  avoided. 
Rove  Beetles  (/.  /?.). — Some  of 
the  Rove  beetles  feed  on  animal 
matter,  including  living  insects, 
and  they  much  frequent  rotten- 
animal  and  vegetable  refuse.  Both 
grubs  and  insects  help  us  in  clear¬ 
ing  off  other  insect  presence.  They 
have  a  peculiar  and  characteristic- 
habit  of  arching  up  tbeir  hinder 
quarters  when  disturbed  or 
annoyed.  This  is  due  to  fear, 
and  is  no  doubt  intended  to  instil 
the  same  feelings  into  whatever 
has  caused  them  to  so  act.  The  accompanying  illustration  will  show 
a  group  of  these  peouliar  beetles,  also  called  Devil’s  Coachhorses. 
Myosotis  for  Bedding  (E.  S.). — The  best  Forget-me-not,  or  Myosotis,. 
for  spring  bedding  is  M.  sylvaticadissitiflora;  the  best  white,  M.  alpestris 
filba.  Theee  plants  could  be  used  effectively  far  more  frequently  than 
they  are.  Seeds  may  be  sown  from  now  to  the  end  of  June,  in  light, 
sandy  soil  in  a  slightly  shaded  situation,  to  be  watered  in  dry  weather.. 
Prick  out  the  young  plantlets  when  they  are  large  enough  to  handle, 
placing  each  about  3  inches  apart.  In  autumn  or  early  spring  they  may 
be  planted  with  good  balls  of  soil. 
Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums  Diseased  (0.  G.). — The  leaves  are  what  is 
termed  ‘‘rusted,”  and  the  rusty  spots  are  produced  by  the  rust  mite, 
Tarsonvmus  gerani,  whioh  somewhat  resembles  a  thrip  in  the  larval 
stage,  and  by  its  bites  and  mode  of  reproduction  causes  considerable 
injury  to  the  foliage,  though  not  completely  effecting  its  collapse,  as 
frequently  occurs  in  the  case  of  tuberous-rooted  Begonias.  It,  however,, 
greatly  disfigures  the  foliage,  and  this,  sooner  or  later,  shrivels.  The 
attacks  are  chiefly  confined  to  plants  under  glass,  plants  affected 
usually  recovering  when  placed  outdoors,  especially  when  the  weather 
proves  moist  and  favourable  to  growth.  Dip  the  plants  in  tobacco- 
water,  or  spray  them  with  it,  so  as  to  coat  the  leafage  on  both  sides 
with  the  finest  possible  film  of  the  tobacco  water.  This  may  be  mad& 
by  steeping  shag  tobacco  in  water  at  the  rate  of  4  ozs.  to  the  gallon. 
It  is  well  to  pour  boiling  water  on  the  tobioco,  cover  the  vessel  olos'dy, 
and  allow  to  stand  until  cold,  then  strain.  The  sprayiDg  or  dipping 
should  be  repeated  at  intervals  of  about  four  days,  two  or  three  times, 
in  order  to  effect  a  clearance  from  tbe  pernicious  pest,  whioh  is  greatly 
on  the  increase,  and  infests  a  great  number  of  plants,  such  as  Gloxinias, 
Gesneras,  Begonias,  Pelargoniums  (Ivy-leaved  varieties  moat),  Cyclamens, 
and  occasionally  Chrysanthemums,  causing,  in  the  latter,  a  rusted 
appearance  of  the  leaves  and  their  shrivelling. 
Rove  Beetles. 
