JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
465 
May  30,  1901. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Removing  Superfluous  Growths. — All  kinds  of  fruit  trees  of  a  choice 
character  growing  in  a  restricted  manner  should  have  special  attention 
devoted  to  them  at  the  present  time,  in  order  to  thin  out,  regulate,  or 
remove  entirely,  growths  whioh  are  not  required.  The  work  is  best 
done  a  little  at  a  time,  dealing  first  with  parts  of  trees  where  the 
growths  are  rankest  and  most  vigorous.  Much  good  accrues  to  those 
left  by  the  removal  of  all  whioh  tend  to  crowd.  The  proper  plan  is  to 
go  through  a.  course  of  active  disbudding  when  growths  are  an  inch 
long,  as  by  this  means  a  quantity  of  unnecessary  material  is  dispensed 
with,  and  the  more  legitimate  shoots  have  an  excellent  ohance  of 
receiving  the  full  benefit  of  abundant  light  and  air.  Bush  trees  require 
the  interior  growths  entirely  removing,  while  the  others  should  be 
reduced^  in  numbers,  leaving  the  best  placed  pointing  outwards,  and  at 
a  due  distance  apart.  Give  careful  attention  to  the  proper  balance  and 
shape  of  trees.  Cordon  trees  must  not  be  allowed  to  be  crowded  with 
too  many  shoots,  or  the  fruitfulness  of  all  will  be  impaired.  Apricots, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Morello  Cherries,  trained  on  the  extension 
principle,  require  frequent  attention  now  in  laying-in  growths,  alike  for 
the  benefit  of  the  latter,  the  trees  as  a  whole,  and  the  fruit. 
Thinning  Fruit. — It  is  early  yet  to  thin  much  fruit  from  the 
majority  of  trees,  but  Apiicots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Plums  may  be 
dealt  with,  as  the  fruits  are  now  in  a  forward  state,  and  those  growing 
in  quite  unsuitable  parts  may  be  cut  off,  leaving  the  final  thinning  a 
little  later.  Gooseberry  bushes  may  with  great  advantage  have  the 
crop  lightened,  and  as  the  green  frnits  are  useful  now  for  tarts, 
and  later  for  preserve  making,  the  reducing  of  the  crop  can  be 
gradually  carried  on.  While  the  berries  remain  green  they  are  of  use 
for  jam  and  bottling.  The  largest  fruits  should  be  picked  now,  leaving 
the  smaller  to  develop,  thus  prolonging  the  season  for  green  fruit. 
Newly  Planted  Fruit  Trees. — Young  trees  in  the  open,  recently 
planted  in  autumn  or  spring,  must  be  examined  to  see  that  the  soil  is 
thoroughly  moist,  as  active  and  vigorous  growth  cannot  take  place 
unless  the  soil  is  adequately  moist.  If  it  is  so,  a  mulch  of  manure  over 
the  roots  will  tend  to  conserve  it  in  that  condition.  Especially  after  a 
good  watering  has  been  given  should  a  mulch  be  applied,  as  it  renders 
frequent  soakings  unnecessary.  Young  wall  trees  may  possibly  be  very 
dry  at  the  roots,  and  refuse  to  grow  freely  in  consequence,  hence  give 
particular  regard  to  the  condition  of  soil.  Make  it  fairly  firm  about 
them,  moisten  it,  and  mulch  the  surface.  The  shoots  of  young  wall 
trees  must  also  be  disposed  in  the  proper  direction,  nailing  or  seouring 
them  now  permanently  to  the  wall  or  trellis.  The  usual  methods  of 
balancing  growths  must,  if  the  trees  are  unevenly  developing,  be 
resorted  to.  These  consist  in  training  upright  the  weak  growths  and 
depressing  the  strong  and  vigorous,  eventually  returning  them  to  their 
original  positions  when  the  balance  of  growth  has  been  restored. 
Syringing  wili  be  very  beneficial  in  promoting  growth  and  maintaining 
the  trees  clean,  especially  with  young  trees,  as  well  as  those  advanced 
in  age  and  size.  Aphides  cannot  colonise  so  readily  at  the  points  of 
young  shoots  when  the  syringe  or  garden  engine  is  used  freely. 
Strawberries. — The  principal  matter  necessary  is  to  lay  down  a 
mulching  between  the  rows  in  order  that  the  ripe  fruit  may  have  a 
clean  bed  to  rest  upon.  Chopped  straw  forms  an  admirable  material, 
though  dependence  is  usually  placed  upon  a  layer  of  strawy  manure, 
a  mixture  of  long  and  short  laid  down  early  in  April.  By  the  time  the 
fruit  is  ripe  the  surface  has  become  bleached  and  clean.  Early  runners, 
where  not  wanted  for  stock,  may  be  cut  off.  Liquid  manure,  if  available, 
is  valuable  to  afford  to  plants  when  the  fruit  has  set.  Only  plants  in 
fruit  should  be  fed,  as  it  is  not  desirable  to  promote  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  foliage. 
Outdoor  Vines. — Those  now  extending  young  growth  freely  require 
frequent  attention  in  rubbing  or  outting  out  unsuitable  shoots,  tying  or 
nailing  laterals  which  should  be  showing  bunohes,  and  stopping  them 
at  one  joint  beyond  the  show  of  fruit.  The  leading  growth  may  extend, 
especially  if  there  is  space  to  fill.  Provision  may  be  made  for  good 
future  crops  by  encouraging  the  production  of  young  wood  from  the 
base,  which  should  be  encouraged  to  grow  strongly,  and  of  fair  length, 
say  4  or  5  feet,  before  stopping.  At  that  point,  however,  it  will  be 
beneficial  to  stop,  and  thus  concentrate  the  energies  in  plumping  up  the 
buds  in  the  axils  of  the  principal  leaves.  Where  there  is  a  good  show 
of  bunches  some  reduction  in  their  number  must  be  made,  allowing  not 
more  than  one  on  each  lateral  shoot ;  but  where  two  lateral  growths 
proceed  from  a  spur  on  the  main  rod  one  only  should  bear  a  bunch. 
Watering  the  roots  is  a  matter  needing  attention  if  the  soil  about  them, 
as  it  often  is,  near  walls,  very  dry.  Mildew,  which  attacks  outdoor 
Vines,  is  the  result  of  poverty  and  dry  conditions  of  soil.  A  thorough 
and  copious  soaking  will  remedy  this,  first  applying  clear  water,  then 
liquid  manure,  and  follow  with  a  mulching.  Frequent  and  daily 
syringing  is  not  necessary,  but  an  occasional  washing  with  the  garden 
engine  will  be  beneficial. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cherry  House. — At  this  time  of  year  there  is  nothing  in  the  fruit 
way  so  charming  as  a  house  of  Cherries,  whether  the  trees  are  planted 
out  and  trained  to  trellises,  or  grown  in  pots  as  standards.  It  is, 
however,  a  great  mistake  to  have  a  number  of  varieties  for  affording  a 
general  supply,  and  a  long  succession  of  fruit  can  be  had  by  forcing 
such  as  Early  Rivers,  Governor  Wood,  Black  Tartarian,  and  Elton. 
When  the  whole  of  the  crop  is  ripe  the  ohief  consideration  will  be  to 
keep  the  fruit  fresh  and  prolong  the  season  as  long  as  possible. 
Shading  will  do  so,  but  it  is  only  advisable  when  the  Cherries  are 
directly  exposed  to  the  sun,  owing  to  the  limited  foliage.  Free  venti¬ 
lation  must  be  attended  to,  and  in  hot  weather  a  sprinkling  of  water  on 
the  surface  of  the  border,  as  well  as  the  paths,  in  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day,  will  assist  in  keeping  the  fruit  plump.  The  supply  of  water  must 
not  be  neglected,  for  dryness  at  the  roots  is  inimical  to  the  formation  of 
the  buds  for  the  ensuing  orop  of  fruit  and  health  of  the  trees. 
Pits  and  Frames. — The  Cucumbers  in  these  should  be  ventilated 
from  7.30  to  8  a.m.,  just  a  little,  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape, 
and  the  atmosphere  to  warm  gradually  with  the  advancing  sun,  as  the 
foliage  of  Cuoumbers  is  soon  scorched.  In  the  hottest  part  of  the  day 
a  slight  shade  from  fierce  sun  will  be  beneficial,  and  keeping 
through  the  day  at  85°  to  90° ;  close  so  as  to  increase  5°  to  10°  with  sun 
heat.  Keep  the  plants  watered  as  required,  about  twice  a  week  will  be 
necessary  in  bright  weather,  and  damp  overhead  on  fine  afternoons. 
Avoid  overcrowding  the  foliage,  thinning  well,  keeping  up  a  succession 
of  bearing  wood,,  removing  bad  leaves,  stopping  one  or  two  joints 
beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  and  avoiding  overcropping. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Houses. — The  fruit  of  the 
very  early  varieties  is  gathered  where  the  trees  were  started  in  late 
December  or  at  the  new  year.  The  wood  on  whioh  the  fruit  has  been 
borne  should  be  cut  out,  and  if  all  superfluous  growths  are  removed 
light  and  air  will  be  admitted  to  the  shoots  which  are  to  produce  fruit 
next  year.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  trees  by  washing  them  forcibly  with 
water  from  the  syringe  or  engine,  and  if  they  have  become  infested 
with  red  spider  or  thrips  add  2  ozs.  of  petroleum  softsoap  to  each  gallon 
of  water.  Scale  also  often  appears  on  forced  trees,  weakening  the 
growths  by  extracting  the  juices,  and  impairing  their  health  by  the 
filthy  excreta.  In  that  case  use  the  petroleum  softsoap  a  little  stronger,, 
or  dissolve  1 J  lb.  of  softsoap  in  a  gallon  of  water  by  boiling,  and  when 
boiling-hot  add  half  a  pint  of  paraffin  oil,  stirring  briskly  till  thoroughly 
amalgamated,  then  dilute  to  10  gallons  with  hot  water,  and  apply  at  a 
temperature  of  100°  to  110°  by  means  of  a  syringe,  or  preferably,  for 
economy,  a  spraying  machine,  directing  the  spray  upwards,  so  as  to 
reach  the  pests  that  are  fastened  on  the  midribs  of  the  leaves  as  well 
as  those  on  the  young  wood.  Maintain  the  border  in  a  thoroughly 
moist  state.  Admit  air  freely,  and  keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible, 
but  not  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  to  an  unsafe  point  at  night,  as 
this  tends  to  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage.  The  roof-lights 
should  not  be  removed,  nor  trees  in  pots  placed  outdoors,  until  the 
weather  becomes  settled,  which  does  not  usually  occur  until  the  middle 
of  June. 
Succession  Houses. — Lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots  prejudices  the 
health  of  the  trees,  inducing  attacks  of  red  spider  and  dropping  of  the 
fruit,  with  premature  ripening  ot  the  wood.  In  all  cases  before 
watering  make  an  examination  of  the  border,  and  when  the  soil  is 
becoming  rather  dry,  not  before,  afford  a  thorough  supply.  Over¬ 
cropping  is  a  frequent  cause  of  premature  ripening  and  lack  of  quality, 
as  well  as  size  in  the  fruit.  Thin,  therefore,  in  the  early  stages  of 
swelling  gradually,  and  always  have  regard  to  the  position  of  the  fruit 
for  receiving  light,  exposing  them  from  the  first  as  much  as  possible  to 
the  sun  in  order  to  secure  high  colour.  Above  all  things  attend  to 
cleanliness,  for  it  is  absolutely  essential  to  the  perfection  of  the  current 
crop,  and  the  due  provision  of  buds  and  stored  matter  for  next  year’s 
fruiting. 
Late  Houses. — Thinning  the  fruit  prior  to  stoning  must  be  attended 
to,  also  disbudding,  and  tying-in  the  shoots.  Do  not  overcrowd  the 
growths,  for  the  exposure  to  light  is  the  essence  of  fertility.  Ventilate 
early  and  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions ;  close  early  in  the  afternoon, 
so  as  to  induce  the  fruit  to  swell  kindly,  and  syringe  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  when  the  weather  is  bright.  Aphides  are  very  trouble¬ 
some  this  season.  Fumigate  or  vaporise  moderately,  having  the  foliage 
dry,  and  deliver  the  smoke  cool.  Syringing  with  quassia  water,  made 
by  boiling  4  ozs.  of  chips  in  a  gallon  of  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
dissolving  in  it  as  it  cools  4  ozs.  of  softsoap,  straining,  and  applying  by 
means  of  a  spraying  apparatus  at  a  temperature  of  100°  to  110°. 
Mildew,  and  even  “  blister,”  are  not  absent  this  year  from  trees  in  cool 
houses.  Probably  they  are  too  cold  and  moist  at  times,  or  so  variable 
in  temperature  and  moisture  as  to  favour  the  parasites.  Sulphur  makes 
an  end  of  the  mildew,  but  both  it  and  blister  are  more  successfully 
combated  by  the  use  of  the  powder  fungicides,  such  as  anti-blight, 
fostite,  and  strawsonite,  containing  sulphate  of  copper  with  lime. 
Sulphur,  however,  does  not  prejudice  the  fruit  for  use,  it  being 
important  to  thoroughly  cleanse  the  fruit,  by  syringing,  from  poisonous 
substances. 
