488 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  6,  1901. 
Tlje  Kitchen  Garden. 
Planting  Winter  Greens. — A  first  batch  of  plants  may  be  placed  out 
on  good,  well  manured  ground.  It  is  customary  to  plant  out  in  showery 
weather,  but  if  opportunity  occurs,  and  moisture  is  absent,  they  may 
still  be  planted.  Take  out  a  trench  alongside  the  garden  line  of 
sufficient  depth,  and  well  soak  with  water  or  liquid  manure.  Lift  with 
balls  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots  if  possible,  and  lay  in  the  trench  at 
the  required  distance  apart.  Cover  the  roots  with  soil,  making  firm, 
and  thoroughly  moisten  the  roots  of  each,  and,  finally,  fill  up  the  trench 
with  dry  soil.  Brussels  Sprouts,  Autumn  Cauliflower,  Brrccoli,  and 
Cabbage  will,  thus  treated,  soon  take  roothold,  and  quickly  become 
established.  Should  the  weather  remain  dry,  a  few  further  waterings 
may  be  necessary,  but  as  a  rule  little  is  required  when  well  planted 
at  first. 
Peas. — Autocrat  is  one  of  the  best  late  Peas,  and  a  fair  quantity 
should  be  sown.  Sow  them  in  manured  trenches  below  the  general 
level  of  the  surrounding  ground,  so  that  water  or  liquid  manure  may  be 
readily  and  economically  applied  when  necessary  to  promote  and 
sustain  growth.  Any  rows  of  Peas 
showing  signs  of  suffering  should  be 
liberally  watered ;  afterwards  those  in 
pod  will  be  much  benefited  by  a  sprink¬ 
ling  of  nitrate  of  soda  along  each  side 
of  rows.  Crush  the  nitrate  fine,  spread 
it  evenly  about  a  foot  in  width,  and 
water  it  in.  Sulphate  of  ammonia  is 
also  good,  but  acts  less  quickly  ;  guano 
in  solution,  or  liquid  animal  manure, 
may  be  used  if  readily  obtainable.  A 
good  mulching  of  cow  dung  is  of  great 
service  in  conserving  the  moisture,  and, 
further,  helps  to  hold  and  distribute  the 
moisture  applied. 
Vegetable  Marrows. — These  planted 
out,  whether  on  heaps  of  old  leaves, 
vegetable  matter,  or  on  good  ground  in 
the  open  garden,  require  some  en¬ 
couragement  to  make  free  growth. 
They  must  have  water  in  dry  weather, 
so  as  to  maintain  the  soil  moist  for  the 
roots  to  ramify  in.  They  will  then 
grow  quickly  and  vigorously,  and  soon 
commence  forming  fruit.  Distribute 
the  growths  equally  over  the  space 
immediately  around  each  plant,  and 
leave  them  to  their  own  way  after¬ 
wards.  No  stopping  of  growths  is 
required. 
Celery. —  Plants  for  the  earliest  crop 
should  be  placed  out  forthwith  in  moist 
trenches  of  manure  and  soil.  Good, 
sturdy  plants  with  abundance  of  roots 
are  indispensable.  Such  will  not  suffer 
much  from  removal,  and  quickly  start 
away  into  fresh  growth.  Water  immedi¬ 
ately  after  planting  if  the  weather  is  hot 
and  dry,  or  plant  immediately  before 
rain. 
Onions. — After  the  rows  have  been 
thinned  and  weeds  removed  from  among 
the  plants,  also  the  soil  stirred  with 
the  hoe,  light  dustings  with  soot  are 
beneficial.  Soot  tends  to  prevent  the 
Ooion  fly  depositing  its  eggs  at  the 
base  of  tender  young  Onions,  also 
acting  as  a  stimulant  to  growth, 
especially  should  a  shower  of  rain  fall. 
The  autumn  sown  crop  transplanted 
this  spring  are  not  so  subject  to  attacks 
from  the  Onion  fly,  but  soot  sprinkled 
between  the  rows,  or  light  dressings  of  artificials,  will  be  beneficial. 
Asparagus.  Weeds  should  be  pulled  out  from  among  the  plants. 
Lndeavour  to  allow  an  even  distribution  of  fairly  strong  growth  over 
the  whole  of  the  beds  now.  A  dressing  of  artificial  manure  should  be 
given  and  watered  in. 
Thinning  Boot  Crops. — Carrots,  Parsnips,  and  Beet  should  be  finally 
thinned  now  to  the  proper  distance  apart,  a  distance  of  12  inches  being 
suitable.  Keep  the  soil  clear  of  weeds,  and  hoe  to  promote  growth. 
Spinach.  Where  Spinach  is  in  demand  sow  successional  rows  thinly 
of  the  round  variety.  New  Zealand  Spinach  will  grow  well  now  sown 
outdoors  in  drills.  Rich  ground  is  desirable. 
Radishes.  Sow  Radishes  now  in  a  semi-shady  position,  first  well 
watering  the  soil.  Sow  broadcast,  and  thinly  covering  with  dry,  fine 
soil. 
Lettuce.  Summer  Lettuces  must  have  plenty  of  water  and  space  to 
grow,  lie  up  Cos  Lettuce  that  is  hearting.  Sow  more  seed  thinly  in 
shallow  drills,  first  well  watering  if  the  weather  is  dry,  and  cover  with 
fine,  dry  soil. 
Chorizema  cordatum  splendeks. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  th  it  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Experimental  Fruit  Farm  at  Woburn  (H.  L.). — A  report  of  the 
experiments  may  be  had  by  application  to  Mr.  L.  Castle,  Duke  of 
Bedford’s  Experimental  Fruit  Farm,  at 
Ridgmont,  Beds.  Messrs.  Eyre  and 
Spottiswoode  also  publish  a  report  of 
this  Fruit  Farm,  price  5*. 
Worms  in  Vine  Border  (4.  S.). — The 
earthworms  were  attracted  to  the  border 
by  the  manure.  They  will  be  bene¬ 
ficial  rather  than  otherwise  by  making 
perforations  in  the  soil. 
Chorizemas  (R.  F.).—' The  sprig  you 
send  is  of  Chorizema  cordatum  splen- 
dens,  of  which  we  are  able  to  furnish 
an  illustration,  for  the  helpful  guidance 
of  other  plantsmen.  The  Chorizemas 
are  most  graceful  and  resplendently 
showy  spring-flowering  plants,  always 
certain  to  produce  a  orop,  and  last  a 
great  length  of  time  in  good  condition. 
They  are  easily  raised  from  cuttings 
put  in  now,  and  require  strict  attention 
to  pinching. 
Tomato  Plants  Diseased  (C.  H.  IF.). 
— The  portion  of  stem  and  the  fruit  is 
infested  by  the  “  sleepy  ”  disease  fungus, 
Fusarium  lycopersicum,  which  was  first 
recorded  from  Guernsey.  The  disease 
is  indicated  by  the  dull  colour  of  the 
leaves,  which  commence  to  turn  inwards 
and  to  droop,  and  this,  in  most  instances, 
is  quickly  followed  by  a  partial  or 
complete  collapse  of  the  stem,  hence  the 
name  “  sleepy  disease.”  Shortly  after 
the  sleeping  stage  has  been  reached,  the 
portion  of  stem  just  above  the  ground 
is  more  or  less  covered  with  a  very 
delicate  white  mould,  consisting  of  fruit¬ 
ing  branches  or  conidiophores,  bearing 
conidia  or  spores  at  the  tips  of  the 
branches.  This  is  the  Diplocladium 
stage  of  the  fungus,  and  the  conidia  fall 
to  the  ground,  where  they  germinate, 
producing  a  mycelium,  whioh  attacks 
the  rootlets  of  Tomato  plants  and 
continue  the  disease.  The  second  or 
Fusarium  condition  soon  follows,  form¬ 
ing  from  the  same  mycelium  that 
previously  produced  the  Diplocladium. 
The  spindle-shaped,  curved  spores  of  the 
Fusarium  stage  are  produced  in  immense 
numbers,  and  germinate  quickly,  and 
thus  the  disease  spreads  rapidly.  In 
the  matter  of  prevention,  treatment  with 
fungicides  are  of  no  avail.  Diseased  plants  should  be  removed.  The 
soil  should  be  mixed  with  quicklime,  applying  1  lb.  per  square  yard  and 
leaving  on  the  surface  for  a  few  days  after  slaking  before  digging  in, 
then  taking  small  spits  so  as  to  mix  well  with  the  soil.  It  is  also 
excellent  practice  to  mix  lime  with  soil  intended  for  growing  Tomatoes, 
and  some  time  in  advance  of  using.  Where  the  house  has  contained 
diseased  plants  the  soil  should  either  be  removed  or  treated  with  lime, 
or  basic  slag  phosphate  may  be  applied  at  the  rate  of  2  lbs.  per  square 
yard,  and  after  digging  in  apply,  as  a  top-dressing,  £  lb.  kainit  per 
square  yard,  leaving  until  the  following  spring,  stirring  well  before 
planting,  the  treatment  being  given  in  autumn.  The  walls,  &c.,  should 
be  drenched  with  a  solution  of  iron  sulphate,  25  lbs.  to  50  gallons  of 
water,  and  1  pint  of  sulphuric  acid,  this  being  poured  upon  the  iron 
sulphate  in  a  wooden  barrel,  then  add  the  water  by  degrees.  Seed 
should  not  be  obtained  from  diseased  plants,  or  even  from  a  neighbour¬ 
hood  where  the  disease  has  prevailed.  The  stripes  on  the  fruit  are 
probably  caused  by  black  rot,  due  to  attack  by  “  black  stripe  ”  fungus, 
Macrosporium  Tomatum,  for  which  thorough  spraying  with  potassium 
