June  13,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
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Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Wall  Trees. — Destroying  Insects. — Under  certain  conditions  wall 
fruit  trees  are  very  subject  to  attacks  from  insects,  some  of  which 
specially  infest  the  young  shoots,  while  others,  such  as  red  spider, 
attack  the  foliage  as  a  whole.  Apricots  are  eubjeot  to  the  leaf-rolling 
maggot.  These  are  difficult  to  destroy,  except  by  crushing  them  or 
picking  off  infested  leaves.  No  insecticide  is  able  to  reach  them. 
Green,  black,  and  blue  aphides  attack  the  young  shoots  of  Apricotp, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  Plums,  and  Cherries.  Insect  infestation  is 
generally  due  to  preventible  causes,  one  of  which  is  dryness  at  the  root, 
and  consequently  impoverishment  of  the  food  supply.  Another  cause 
is  the  crowding  of  trees  and  the  encroachment  of  evergreen  and 
deciduous  shrubs  and  trees  upon  the  space  required  by  the  wall  trees, 
which  should  have  unlimited  room  and  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
Blistered  leaves  appearing  on  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  are 
due  to  a  want  of  vigour  and  checks  to  the  sap  by  cold  winds  acting 
on  the  leaves.  These  blistered  and  crumpled  leaves  provide  a  shelter 
for  aphis,  which  quickly  takes  possession,  misleading  some  into  thinking 
that  the  insects  are  the  cause  of  the  evil.  Mildew  is  a  dreadful  pest 
on  most  fruit  trees  it  attacks,  and  generally  infests  the  younger  shoots 
and  leaves,  causing  much  disfiguration.  Poverty  and  dryness  of  the 
soil  brings  it  on  to  a  large  extent.  Judicious  management  in  every 
particular  will  largely  prevent  it.  In  order  to  bring  the  trees  into  a 
thoroughly  healthy  condition,  it  is  highly  desirable  that  the  soil  about 
the  roots  should  be  well  moistened,  the  growths  thinned,  regulated,  and 
carefully  laid  in.  Thoroughly  syringing  with  a  garden  engine,  and  the 
application  of  an  insecticide,  will  cleanse  the  growths  sufficiently.  The 
advertised  insecticides  are  good  for  the  purpose,  following  the  directions 
supplied.  A  home  made  mixture,  consisting  of  softsoap,  lbs. 
dissolved  in  50  gallons  of  water,  with  the  extract  from  51bs.  of  quassia 
chips,  and  2  pints  of  paraffin  oil  added,  is  a  good  remedy.  Churn  the 
whole  into  an  emulsion,  so  that  the  ingredients  may  be  thoroughly 
mixed.  The  solution  should  be  syringed  or  sprayed  on  the  trees, 
preferably  on  a  dull  day,  when  the  sun  cannot  harm  the  foliage.  A 
special  remedy  for  mildew  is  a  mixture  of  softsoap  and  sulphur,  or 
half  ounce  of  sulphide  of  potassium  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water, 
cooling  the  mixture,  and  then  spraying  it  on  the  affected  parts. 
Fruit  Bushes. —  Caterpillars  and  Aphis. — The  Gooseberry  caterpillar 
sometimes  becomes  prevalent  on  bushes,  and  is  capable  of  doing  much 
harm  if  not  quickly  destroyed.  Dusting  with  lime  is  a  good  and  safe 
remedy.  Hellebore  powder  kills  every  caterpillar  it  touches,  but  it  is 
poisonous,  and  not  suitable  for  general  use.  On  Red  and  White  Currants 
aphides  congregate  at  the  points  of  shoots.  These  may,  however,  be 
destroyed  by  the  process  of  summer  pruning,  shortening  them  back  to 
three  pairs  of  leaves. 
Thinning  Fruit. — Apricots,  Peaches ,  and  Nectarines. — When  the 
shoots  have  been  regulated  and  laid  in,  the  fruit  should  be  reduoed  to 
the  number  sufficient  for  the  trees  to  carry,  according  to  their  vigour  as 
a  who’e  and  that  of  the  branches.  Remove  duplicate  fruits,  unfertilised, 
and  all  ill-placed  specimens. 
Cherries. — Retain  only  the  fruits  on  wall  trees,  which  include  dessert 
and  Morello  Cherries,  that  have  developed  to  a  good  size,  removing 
small  fruits  for  the  benefit  of  the  others. 
Plums. — A  vigorous  syringing  will  effect  some  thinning  by  causing 
the  small  and  unfertilised  fruits  to  fall.  The  best  developed  will 
remain,  and  continue  to  swell. 
Apples  and  Pears. — The  more  freely  thinning  is  practised  the  finer 
the  fruits  which  result,  hut  it  is  only  the  choice  varieties  on  special 
trees  wLich  should  be  so  reduced.  A  fair  reduction  will  suffice  for  the 
majority,  leaving  as  a  rule  two  fruits  on  a  spur. 
Strawberries. — Thinning  out  the  small  and  ill-formed  fruit  should  be 
practised  with  a  few  choice  varieties  for  special  purposes,  and  to  secure 
the  finest  possible  fruits.  Going  over  large  breadths  for  the  purpose  of 
removing  undesirable  fruits  is  not  practicable.  Heavy  crops,  however, 
should  not  be  allowed  on  comparatively  weakly  plants,  which  ought  to 
be  encouraged  to  make  bold  and  sturdy  growth  rather  than  develop 
fruit.  Late  Strawberries  may  be  examined,  and  only  the  best  and 
strongest  flower  trusses  allowed  to  remain. 
Watering  and  Mulching  Strawberries. — Where  practicable  in  dry 
soils  and  situations  watering  will  be  of  much  benefit  to  quarters  where 
fruit  is  swelling.  Liquid  manure  may  be  given  freely  before  ripening 
commences.  Where  a  mulch  has  not  been  given  to  keep  the  fruit  clean, 
a  layer  of  clean,  long,  or  chopped  straw  should  be  placed  under  the  trusses 
of  fruit.  Failing  this,  pieces  of  glass  cr  slate  will  serve.  Anything  of 
an  objectionable  nature,  such  as  short  grass,  should  be  avoided,  as  it 
sticks  to  the  fiuit  in  wet  weather,  and  forms  a  pasty  mass  to  tread  upon. 
Netting  Strawberries. — Small  mesh  fish  netting  should  be  supported 
over  the  plants  to  prevent  birds  attacking  the  fruit,  which  they  will  do 
as  soon  as  the  first  specimens  commence  to  ripen. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. —  When  all  the  fruit  is 
gathered  from  individual  trees,  the  wood  on  which  it  has  been  produced 
should  be  cut  away  to  the  shoot  at  its  base,  which  is  to  afford  the 
bearing  wood  for  next  season,  except  if  the  fruit  has  been  produced  on 
wood  that  is  necessary  to  retain  for  the  extension  of  the  trees.  All 
growths  not  absolutely  neoessary  for  bearing  next  season,  or  for  the 
extension  of  the  trees,  must  be  cut  away,  as  it  is  important  the  foliage 
be  fully  exposed  to  light  and  air,  and  it  is  also  essential  that  it  die 
naturally,  not  prematurely  through  attacks  of  red  spider  or  lack  of 
moisture  at  the  roots.  Employ  the  syringe  or  engine  freely,  and  have 
recourse  to  an  insecticide  if  necessary  to  keep  insect  pests  in  check. 
Keep  the  inside  borders  properly  moist  by  duly  watering,  not  neglecting 
the  outside  ones  if  the  weather  be  dry,  supplying  liquid  manure  to 
weakly  trees  induced  by  heavy  cropping.  Admit  all  the  air  possible  ; 
and  when  the  buds  are  plump  and  the  wood  firm,  the  roof-lights,  where 
movable,  as  they  should  be  in  all  early  forced  houses,  may  be  taken  off. 
Trees  Ripening  their  Fruit. — Ventilate  freely,  admitting  a  little 
air  constantly,  and  to  insure  the  preservation  of  the  foliage  in  health 
sprinkle  the  paths  and  borders  with  water  in  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
not  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dry,  but  giving  water  as  required.  A 
light  mulohing  of  short  spent  material  is  very  useful  in  preventing  the 
surface  cracking,  lessening  evaporation,  insuring  uniform  moisture,  and 
preventing  the  roots  going  down  in  quest  of  liquid  nourishment. 
Syringing  must  cease  directly  the  fruit  commences  to  soften  for 
ripening,  or  the  moisture  will  cause  the  skin  to  crack,  mould  following, 
and  imparting  an  unpleasant  musty  flavour,  as  well  as  spoiling  its 
appearance.  In  gathering  the  fruit  great  care  is  necessary,  as  slight 
pressure  is  sufficient  to  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  specimen.  A  piece 
of  wadding  should  be  held  in  the  hand  and  the  fruit  removed  by  gentle 
pressure,  then  laid  carefully  in  a  padded  shallow  basket.  The  fruit 
intended  for  packing  should  be  gathered  before  it  is  dead  ripe.  Morning 
is  the  best  time  to  gather  the  fruit,  and  it  should  be  placed  in  a  cool 
room  to  mature  before  being  sent  to  table.  In  bright  weather  the 
trees  should  be  looked  over  in  the  evening  as  well  as  morning  for  the 
removal  of  ripe  fruit.  Some  netting  suspended  beneath  the  trees  is 
useful  to  prevent  falling  fruits  being  bruised,  but  let  the  netting  be 
“  pocketed,”  so  as  to  prevent  the  fruit  dashing  against  each  other. 
Trees  w>th  Fruit  Talcing  the  Last  Swelling. — Give  every  attention  to 
watering,  feeding,  and  mulching.  Any  extra  nourishment  will  not  do 
any  harm  provided  it  is  of  a  substantial  na'ure,  such  as  superphosphate 
and  muriate  of  potash,  with  a  moderate  amount  of  nitrate  of  soda. 
About  5  parts  of  superphosphate,  3  parts  muriate  of  potash,  and 
2  parts  nitrate  of  soda  form  a  suitable  mixture.  The  borders,  both 
inside  and  outside,  should  be  brought  into  a  proper  state  of  moisture  by 
watering,  then  supply  2  to  4  ozs.  of  the  mixture  per  square  yard,  and 
wash  in  moderately.  Allow  the  shoots  to  extend,  nob  pinohing  the 
laterals  too  closely,  but  they  must  be  prevented  shading  the  fruit,  which 
ought  to  be  raised  with  i  s  apex  to  the  fullest  light.  This  can  beeffeoted 
by  placing  thin  laths  across  the  trellis,  and  securing  them  to  the  wires. 
Continue  forcible  syringiugs  morning  and  afternoon  until  the  fruit 
begins  ripening,  then  cease;  but  do  not  allow  the  border  and  other 
surfaces  to  become  parchingly  dry,  as  moderate  moisture,  provided  the 
ventilation  is  liberal,  will  not  injure  the  fruit,  and  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage. 
Trees  Stoning  their  Fruit. — The  trees  started  in  February,  or  even 
in  March,  have  fruit  of  good  size  and  the  stoning  process  in  various 
stages  of  advancement.  To  continue  this  in  steady  progress  and  insure 
its  stoning  satisfactorily,  there  must  be  no  deficiency  of  moisture  at  the 
roots,  the  foliage  must  be  kept  clean  by  daily  syringings,  and,  if 
necessary,  by  the  prompt  application  of  an  insecticide.  Continue  the 
temperature  at  60°  to  65°  artificially,  and  a  free  circulation  of  air 
allowed  between  70°  and  75°,  having  it  full  when  the  latter  is  reached, 
and  close  at  75°,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  If  the  tempera¬ 
ture  advance  to  80°  or  85°,  or  even  90’,  it  will  not  do  any  harm,  but 
admit  a  little  air  in  the  evening,  so  as  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to 
esoape  and  the  temperature  to  gradually  cool  through  the  night. 
Increase  the  ventilation  with  the  advancing  heat  from  65°,  not  pinching 
for  air  in  the  early  part  of  the  day. 
Late  Houses. — The  fruit  should  be  thinned  to  the  quantity  required 
for  the  crop,  or  a  few  more  may  be  left  than  will  be  suitable,  to  allow 
for  casualties  in  stoning.  It  is  very  important  not  to  overburden  the 
trees  with  more  fruit  in  the  early  stages  of  growth  than  can  remain  for 
the  crop,  and  a  moderate  crop  of  large,  highly  coloured  fruit  is  always 
better  than  a  heavy  crop  of  small  fruit,  therefore  thin  well,  leaving  a 
few  more  than  will  be  required  ultimately.  If  it  is  desired  to  retard 
the  fruit  in  any  late  houses,  so  as  to  prolong  the  season  of  supply,  it 
is  best  effected  by  freer  ventilation  during  the  day,  and  continuing  it 
at  night  when  mild  ;  indeed,  there  is  only  need  to  ventilate  day  and 
night  to  keep  back  the  crop,  so  as  to  ripen  about  the  same  time,  as 
that  usually  occurs  with  trees  against  walls,  and  by  judicious  ventilation 
the  fruit  may  be  had  over  a  more  lengthened  period.  Syringe  morning 
and  evening  in  fine  weather,  but  avoid  syringing  on  dull  days  and  on 
mornings  when  moisture  has  been  oondensed  through  the  night  and 
hangs  on  the  margins  of  the  leaves  of  vigorous  trees  in  the  early 
morning.  Admit  air  early  and  freely.  Muloh  ioside  and  outside  borders 
lightly  with  short  manure,  and  supply  water  abundantly.  Shoots  not 
required  for  next  year’s  crop,  and  those  not  needed  for  furnishing  the 
