510 
.JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  13,  1901. 
trees,  should  be  removed.  Cut  away  gross  shoots,  and  keep  laterals 
closely  pinched.  The  shoots  on  young  trees  should  be  left  about 
15  inches  distance  apart  for  next  year’s  bearing,  and  if  they  are 
disposed  to  elongate  above  18  inches  they  may  be  pinched  to  12  or 
15  inches,  stopping  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf,  but  extensions  or  main 
Bhoots  should  be  allowed  to  grow  their  full  length,  provided  they  are 
evenly  balanced  and  there  is  room.  Avoid  laying  in  the  growths  too 
thickly  ;  the  branches  should  be  9  to  12  inches  apart,  and  these  should 
be  as  evenly  balanced  as  possible. 
- *.«•) - 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Fungus  on  Roses  {J.  R.  S .). — We  think  your  Roses  are  affected  with 
the  Orange  fungus.  Spray  or  sponge  the  leaves  with  2  ozs.  of  blue 
vitriol  (sulphate  of  copper)  dissolved  in  hot  water  and  added  to  2  or 
3  gallons  of  cold  water. 
Book  on  Geometry  (H.  Y.). — The  list  of  books  on  page  423  are  not 
for  sale  ;  they  represent  those  included  in  the  young  gardeners’  library 
at  Syon  House.  A  good  book  on  geometry  to  suit  your  needs  would  be 
“  Bradley’s  Practical  Geometry,”  &o.,  second-hand,  2s.,  with  postage 
extra,  from  Messrs.  Wesley  &  Son,  booksellers,  Essex  Street,  Strand, 
W.C.,  or  “  A  Treatise  on  Plane  and  Co-ordinate  Geometry,”  price 
7s.  6d.,  from  MacMillan  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  London.  We  could  obtain  the 
latter  for  you  at  a  reduction  of  3d.  in  the  Is. 
Tomato  Plants  Diseased  (F.  N.). — The  plants  are  attacked  by  the 
Sclerotium  disease  fungus,  Sclerotinia  sclerotiorum,  whioh  probably 
attacks  and  kills  more  plants  of  different  species,  and  belonging  to 
widely  separated  orders,  than  any  other  parasitic  fungus.  The  living 
part  of  the  stem,  especially  of  Tomato  plants,  push  roots  from  the 
unattacked  portion,  and  these — supposing  the  diseased  part  be  cut 
away  and  the  plants  potted  or  planted — continue  the  growth  even  to 
the  production  of  a  fair  crop  of  Tomatoes.  The  diseased  and  fallen 
stems— that  is,  the  dead,  dry,  and  brittle  parts,  contain  a  considerable 
number  of  black  sclerotia  of  variable  size  and  shape,  usually  in  the 
pith,  though  also  beneath  the  cortex  or  baik,  which  are  surrounded  by 
mycelium.  The  decay  of  the  stems  liberates  the  sclerotia,  and  they 
lie  on  or  in  the  ground  until  the  following  spring,  when  they  give 
origin  to,  in  most  cases,  several  more  or  less  funnel-shaped  ascophores. 
The  spores  are  ejeoted  from  the  asci  at  maturity,  and  germinate  at  once. 
The  fungus  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  to  combat.  Diseased  stems, 
however,  should  be  collected  and  burned.  It  would  be  advisable  to 
give  a  dressing  of  gas  lime  fresh  from  gasworks,  £  cwt.  per  rod,  4  tons 
per  acre,  in  autumo,  spreading  evenly,  and  leaving  on  the  surface  a 
month  or  six  weeks  before  digging  or  ploughing  the  ground.  Dressings 
of  quicklime  and  soot  have  been  advised,  and,  as  proved  by  your  using 
them,  with  indifferent  success.  The  use  of  quicklime  in  the  spring 
has  been  attended  by  good  results  in  Potatoes,  which  are  liable  to  the 
solerotinium  disease,  avoiding  application  of  fresh  stable  or  farmyard 
manure,  as  this  greatly  favours  the  spread  of  the  disease.  As  regards 
soil  for  raising  the  plants,  we  have  found  almost  absolute  freedom  from 
this  disease  when  the  compost  has  been  treated  a  year  in  advance  with 
quicklime  and  soot,  which  probably  destroyed  the  mycelium  during 
its  period  of  saprophytic  existence.  Reliance  should  be  placed  on  a 
dressing  of  rape  dust,  bonemeal,  and  kainit  where  the  ground  is  light, 
as  it  should  be,  for  outdoor  Tomatoes,  not  using  any  stable  or  farmyard 
manure  unless  passed  for  a  considerable  time  in  the  rot  heap.  Better 
still,  apply  the  manure  in  autumn,  if  any,  and  dress  with  quicklime 
in  the  spring.  As  regards  your  other  question,  respecting  presence  of 
other  fungi,  we  regret  to  say  there  is  evidence  of  leaf  curl  or  black 
stripe  fungus  (Macrosporium  Solani,  or,  according  to  some,  M.  tomatum). 
This  disease  probably  goes  over  with  the  seed,  though  itself  is  a 
wound  parasite.  It  forms  a  dark  coloured  mycelium  in  the  tissues, 
rapidly  destroying  them,  consequently  the  affected  area  sinks  a  little 
below  the  general  surface  of  the  healthy  part  of  the  stem  or  fruit, 
hence  the  terms  black  stripe  or  black  rot.  Thorough  spraying  with 
potassium  sulphide  solution  at  frequent  intervals  has  been  advised  as 
a  preventive,  but  the  chief  points  are  avoid  seed  from  diseased  plants, 
and  not  use  fresh  manure,  as  this  induces  cracking  of  the  stems  and 
fruit,  consequently  greatly  favours  the  funguB. 
Plums  Unhealthy  (F.  T.). — We  do  not  find  any  pest  upon  the  leaves 
you  sent  to  us.  The  discolouration  of  the  foliage  is  probably  caused  by 
the  drought  and  lack  of  nourishment. 
Transplanting  Vines  ( R .  L.). — Care  will  require  to  be  exercised  in 
removing  the  Vines,  and  the  roots  must  be  kept  moist  during  transit, 
when  the  Vines  may  be  safely  removed  after  the  leaves  have  fallen  in 
November.  Nitric  or  muriatic  acid  applied  to  the  putty  with  a  brush 
will,  it  is  said,  in  an  hour  render  the  putty  soft  enough  to  be  removed. 
Cucumbers  not  Swelling  (S.  J.). — The  evil  would  seem  to  aiise  from 
too  low  a  temperature  and  moist  atmosphere.  Maintain  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  65°  with  slight  ventilation,  say  quarter  of  an  inch  of  top  air, 
allowing  an  increase  during  the  day  to  75°  with  fire  heat,  and  85°  with 
sun  heat.  Permit  the  atmosphere  to  be  sufficiently  dry  to  insure  the 
proper  dispersion  of  pollen. 
Orchids  for  Importation  (A.  G.).—  From  Manilla  we  receive  several 
species  of  Phalsenopsis,  the  best  being  P.  Schilleriana  (figured  in  last 
week’s  issue),  and  P.  amabilis.  They  will  not  travel  safely  unless  they 
are  established  on  native  wood  before  being  sent.  Cypripedium 
laevigatum  is  also  found  there,  and  is  a  choice  plant.  From  Rangoon 
may  be  sent  Vanda  ccerulescens  and  manv  species  of  Dendrobium, 
including  D.  thyrsiflorum,  D.  Bensoniae,  D.  Wardiauum,  D.  crassinode, 
&c.  Aerides  Schilleriana  is  a  rare  species  found  in  Barmah.  Messrs. 
Veitoh’s  “  Manual  of  Orchidaceous  Plants  ”  would  be  exceedingly  useful 
to  you. 
Gooseberry  Moth  ( F .  L  S.). — Tour  bushes  are  infested  with  the  too 
common  Gooseberry  or  Currant  moth  (of  which  we  give  a  figure  of 
its  caterpillar),  named  in  Latin  Abraxis  grossulariata.  It  is  by  no 
means  exclusively  a  garden  insect,  but  may  frequently  be  found  feeding 
on  the  wild  plants  of  woods  and  lanes.  The  moth 
is  sluggish  in  flight,  and  may  sometimes  be  seen 
flapping  about  the  garden  during  the  day,  resting 
occasionally  on  walls.  Each  moth  killed  means  the 
destruction  of  a  hundred  eggs  or  more,  so  you  can 
busy  yourself  in  the  pursuit  of  killing  the  insect. 
The  caterpillars  feed  during  summer,  and  prepare 
»  for  repose  about  the  commencement  of  winter, 
frequently  drawing  together  a  leaf  or  two  with 
silk,  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  tent ;  others  rest  on 
the  Gooseberry  twigs,  without  any  covering,  all 
winter.  Frost,  even  though  severe,  does  not 
always  injure  them ;  they  revive.  During  May 
they  wake  up  and  change  to  the  chrysalis,  or  third 
stage  of  their  life  history,  early  in  the  present 
month.  Syringing  with  a  solution  of  soap  and 
water,  or  any  reliable  insecticide,  is  one  way  of  overcoming  or 
hindering  the  progress  of  the  caterpillars.  By  gently  tapping 
the  bushes  many  will  fall  to  the  ground,  whenoe  they  can  be 
gathered  up. 
Proper  Season  for  Cutting  Down  Evergreen  Oak  (F.  0.  M.  F.). — The 
usual  time  for  felling  Oaks  is  in  the  spring  or  early  summer,  when  the 
sap  is  up  and  the  operation  of  peeling  the  trunk  and  larger  branches 
can  readily  be  performed.  The  bark  is  very  astringent,  and  is  employed 
ia  those  countries  where  the  tree  is  indigenous  for  tanning  hides,  and 
no  doubt  would  answer  the  same  purpose  in  this  country,  only  that  of 
a  single  tree  would  be  difficult  to  dispose  of  and  hardly  worth  the  trouble. 
The  wood  is  very  hard,  compaot,  heavy,  and  durable,  and  is  used  for 
making  pulleys,  axles,  sorews,  millwork,  and  other  such  appliances 
which  are  subjected  to  much  friction.  Unless  the  tree  is  of  considerable 
dimensions  in  trunk,  we  question  your  obtaining  a  sale  for  it  ;  but  it 
would  be  advisable  to  consult  a  timber  merchant  in  your  locality.  We 
are  obliged  by  your  informing  us  as  to  who  supplies  Cranberry  plants, 
we  being  aware  that  the  principal  nurserymen  supply  them.  The 
address  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Selborne  Society  is  20,  Hanover  Square, 
London. 
Flowers  of  Melons  not  Opening  (J.  D.). — It  is  a  very  tantalising, 
though  not  an  uncommon  occurrence,  the  non-expansion  of  the  flowers 
being  persistent,  alike  on  the  first  laterals,  and  also  on  the  sub-laterals. 
In  suoh  another  case  we  were  asked  advice,  and  recommended  a  top- 
dress  of  superphosphate  of  lime.  The  applicant  (late  Major  Clarke, 
Welton  Place,  Daventry)  made  his  own  superphosphate  by  placing 
bones  in  a  cask  in  layers  with  wood  ashes,  and  4  ozs.  of  the  dry 
crumbling  article  was  applied  per  square  yard ;  and  the  Major  wrote 
us: — “You  were  right,  the  Melons  wanted  phosphate,  for  soon  after 
the  dressing  the  flowers  opened  satisfactorily,  set  the  fruit  freely,  and 
I  have  had  a  very  good  crop  of  fine  Melons.”  Probably  the  rough  loam 
and  leaf  mould  with  a  little  lime  rubble  has  been  too  generous  in  the 
supply  of  nitrogenio  matter,  whioh  has  a  tendency  to  promote  growth 
at  the  expense  of  fertility,  favouting  shoot  and  leaf  growth  rather  than 
the  production  of  fruit — indeed,  it  oonduoes  in  oases  of  excess,  in 
proportion  to  the  other  elements  of  nutrition,  to  absolute  sterility.  Had 
a  top-dressing  of  superphosphate  of  lime  five  parts,  and  double  sulphate 
of  potash  and  magnesia  two  paTts,  mixed,  and  3  to  4  oz3.  of  the  mixture 
been  applied,  it  is  likely  the  flowers  would  have  expanded,  the  fruit 
set  well,  and  a  good  orop  have  resulted.  It  often,  however,  makes  just 
all  the  difference  in  the  staple  of  the  soil ;  when  firm  the  set  is  a  good 
one,  and  when  loose  the  growth  is  very  free,  but  the  fruit  sets  very 
indifferently,  or  not  at  all. 
Caterpillar. 
