June  20,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
531 
WORK  fouthe  WEEK  .T 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — The  plants  raised  and  planted  early  in  the  year  will 
soon  be  showing  signs  of  exhaustion,  especially  where  grown  on  the 
high  feeding  and  utmost  capacity  cropping  principles;  therefore  it  will 
be  necessary  to  provide  sturdy  young  plants,  the  seed  being  sown  a 
month  in  advance  of  planting  out,  the  plants  being  grown  on  in  a 
position  calculated  to  insure  a  short-jointed  growth,  yet  without 
stunting  and  becoming  cramped  at  the  roots.  If  this  be  duly  attended 
to,  strong  plants  may  be  had  that  will  come  into  bearing  shortly  after 
planting,  there  not  being  any  material  break  in  the  supply  of  fruit. 
In  the  case  of  the  plants  being  grown  on  the  shallow  trough  principle, 
it  is  perhaps  the  best  plan  to  grow  the  plants  in  shallow  boxes,  or,  as 
they  are  called,  trays,  from  which  the  plants  can  be  transferred  to  the 
troughs  when  a  yard  or  more  in  height,  and  with  fruit  showing,  and 
even  swelling,  so  that  the  supply  of  fruit  is  praotically  unbroken. 
Similar  continuation  may  be  had  on  the  bed  system,  the  plants  being 
shifted  into  larger  sized  pots  as  required,  and  fruit  had  set  and  swelling 
when  planted  out.  Where  the  plants  have  been  infested  by  root  pests, 
and  the  tops  by  malignant  foes,  the  whole  of  the  soil  should  be  cleared 
out,  and  the  structure  thoroughly  disinfected.  For  this  purpose  a 
solution  of  iron  sulpha' e  may  be  used,  drenching  the  walls,  troughs  or 
beds,  floor,  everything.  The  iron  sulphate  solution  may  be  prepared  as 
follows  : — Water  50  gallons,  sulphurio  acid  1  pint,  iron  sulphate  25  lbs. 
Pour  the  sulphuric  acid  upon  the  iron  sulphate,  then  add  by  degrees 
the  50  gallons  of  water.  A  metal  vessel  must  not  be  used  for  the 
preparation  of  this  mixture,  as  it  would  be  acted  upon  injuriously  by 
the  sulphuric  acid,  it  being  necessary  to  use  a  wooden  vessel,  such  as 
that  of  a  barrel,  and  the  article  kept  from  clothing,  &c.  The 
preparation  destroys  the  resting  spores  of  fungi,  and  the  malignant 
animal  organisms  that  are  disposed  to  pass  over  from  one  orop  to 
another;  but  it  is  all-important  to  remember  that  the  drenching  must 
be  done  whilst  the  house  is  quite  empty,  and  some  time  before  the  new 
plants  are  introduced  ;  the  soil,  where  there  is  a  suspicion  of  eelworm, 
or  of  resting  spores,  should  be  sterilised  with  Little’s  soluble  phenyle, 
1  fluid  cz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  about  as  much  being  given  as  in  an 
ordinary  watering.  We  have  also  found  a  mixture  of  equal  parts 
air-slaked  lime  and  fresh  soot  by  measure,  and  half  a  pound  of  the 
mixture  applied  per  square  yard,  the  compost  being  spread  out  about 
10  inches  in  depth,  and  the  dressing  mixed  with  the  soil. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Cut-backs  started  early  and 
shifted  into  the  final  pots  in  good  time  will  have  the  growths  com¬ 
pleted,  the  canes  being  stopped  when  from  6  to  8  feet  long,  and  the 
laterals  kept  pinched  to  one  joint  as  made.  The  Vines  should  be 
freely  ventilated,  kept  thoroughly  clean,  exposed  to  every  ray  of  light, 
and  duly  but  not  excessively  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at 
the  roots.  The  most  desirable  varieties  for  early  forcing  are  White 
Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield 
Court.  Canes  from  early  spring-rooted  eyes  should  be  stopped  when 
from  6  to  8  feet  long,  pinching  the  laterals  and  sub-laterals  at  one 
joint  as  produced.  Those  intended  for  planting  are  also  best  treated 
in  a  similar  manner,  the  object  being  to  secure  a  fibrous  root  formation 
and  stout,  well-matured  wood. 
Vines  Cleared  of  their  Crops.  —  The  foliage  must  be  kept  clean, 
syringing  occasionally,  and  affording  sufficient  water  or  liquid  manure 
to  keep  the  soil  properly  moist,  a  light  mulching  of  short  spent  material 
preventing  the  surface  orackiDg,  saving  watering,  and  enticing  the  roots 
to  remain  at  the  top  instead  of  descending  into  the  border.  Allow  a 
moderate  extension  of  the  laterals,  and  admit  air  freely  above  60°. 
If  the  Vines  are  weakly  and  not  given  to  plump  the  buds  well,  apply 
a  top-dressing  of  three  parts  dissolved  bones  and  two  parts  double 
sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia,  applying  3  or  4  ozs.  of  the  mixture 
per  square  yard,  and  point  in  lightly.  It  will  tell  as  well  in  next  season’s 
crop,  if  not  better,  as  in  the  present,  in  profiting  the  Vines.  There  is  no 
fear  of  the  wood  not  ripening,  and  the  difficulty  is  to  prevent  over¬ 
ripening  or  premature  fall  of  the  foliage. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Grapes. — Slight  shade,  such  as  a  single  pilchard  or 
double  thickness  of  herring  nets,  is  advisable  over  the  roof-lights  to 
prevent  Black  Hamburghs  becoming  red  and  Sweetwaters  brown  in 
colour.  Moderate  air  moisture  will  not  injure  the  Grapes  if  accompanied 
by  judicious  ventilation  constantly.  Keep  the  laterals  fairly  under,  but 
a  little  extension  will  assist  in  the  retention  of  the  principal  leaves,  and 
upon  these  depends  the  storing  of  alimentary  matter  for  maturing  the 
buds  and  supporting  growth  from  them  for  the  next  year’s  crops. 
Grapes  Ripening. — Small  and  many  shanked  berries  are  the 
characteristics  of  Graces  on  Vines  started  at  the  beginning  of  the 
year.  Nothing  aggravates  this  so  much  as  an  excess  of  moisture  and 
lack  of  sweet  food.  Where  Grapes  shank  there  is  usually  neither  a 
deficiency  of  moisture  nor  of  food,  but  neither  is  in  a  proper  assimilable 
condition,  there  not  being  enough  grit  to  keep  the  soil  porous,  air 
entering  and  water  percolating  through  it  freely,  nor  sufficiently 
calcareous  to  render  the  elements  available,  and  the  whole  in  a  sound, 
generous,  healthy  condition,  being  what  is  known  as  sodden  and  sour, 
and  shanking,  with  other  evils,  especially  bad  colour,  is  the  result. 
This  greatest  of  evils  in  Grapes  can  only  be  overcome  by  an  alteration 
of  soil  staple,  or  rectification  of  its  liability  to  sourness  by  applications 
of  lime,  using  air-slaked  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  per  square  yard,  and 
pointing  in  very  lightly,  or  even  leaving  on  the  surface.  The  lime 
practioally  “  eats  up  ”  the  organic  substances,  corrects  the  tendency 
to  sourness  through  the  excess  of  organic  aoids,  and  furnishes  the 
Vines  with  nitrate  (by  the  action  of  nitrifying  organisms),  and  sulphate 
(by  the  presence  of  sulphurio  acid  in  the  soil)  of  that  substance.  Admit 
air  constantly  when  the  Grapes  begin  to  change  colour,  with  sufficient 
heat  in  the  pipes  to  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat.  Avoid  an 
arid  atmosphere,  damping  occasionally,  and  do  not  allow  the  border  to 
become  dry.  Vines  ripening  heavy  crops  will  be  assisted  in  perfecting 
them  and  storing  food  for  the  future  by  an  application  of  tepid  liquid 
manure,  or  by  a  top-dressing  of  quickly  acting  fertiliser  washed  in, 
applying  early  in  the  day,  and  choosing  bright  weather,  so  that  super¬ 
abundant  moisture  will  be  dissipated  before  evening.  A  light  mulching 
of  spent  material  will  assist  the  Vines  by  securing  uniform  moisture 
and  keeping  the  roots  near  the  surface,  whilst  preventing  cracking.  It 
is  a  confined  atmosphere,  with  defective  root  moisture  during  the 
swelling,  that  do  mischief  in  Grapes  cracking  when  ripening  or  ripe. 
Late  Grapes. — The  final  thinning  will  need  to  be  completed  as  soon 
as  possible,  crowding  the  berries  being  even  worse  than  ov9r-thinning  ; 
but  extremes  are  always  bad,  especially  that  of  over-burdening  the 
Vines.  If  there  be  any  doubt  of  the  crop  being  more  than  the  Vines 
can  finish  well,  by  all  means  give  the  Vines  the  benefit  by  reducing  the 
bunches.  A  pound  of  Grapes  per  foot  run  of  rod  is  usually  as  many 
as  ordinary  Vines  finish  well,  and  unless  this  is  effected  the  Grapes  do 
not  keep  well.  Thin  so  as  to  secure  large  and  highly  finished  berries, 
Gros  Colman  requiring  to  have  them  an  inch  apart,  or  even  more,  whilst 
oval-berried  varieties  require  a  little  less  room,  but  all  plenty,  so  that 
each  berry  will  have  ample  room  to  swell  to  full  size  without  wedging. 
He  Kitchen  Garden. 
Watering  and  Mulching  Peas. — In  order  that  Peas  may  produce  well 
and  continuously  it  is  essential  that  the  roots  be  kept  in  a  moist 
condition.  In  order  to  do  this  a  good  mulching  of  manure  down  each 
side  of  the  rows  will  materially  assist  in  retaining  the  moisture  applied. 
Clear  pond  or  soft  water  is  the  best  to  afford  when  the  soil  is  very  dry, 
but  when  this  has  been  given  liberally  something  of  a  stronger 
character,  such  as  liquid  from  the  farmyard,  may  be  given.  A  little 
artificial  manure  sprinkled  along  the  rows  and  watered  in  will  also 
prove  beneficial.  The  mulching  is  of  assistance  in  distributing  the 
liquid  gradually,  which  is  likely  to  run  away  from  the  roots  on  dry  soil. 
Beans. — Beans  that  are  not  growing  in  a  moist,  fairly  deep  run  will 
quickly  lose  many  flowers,  and  fail  to  set  fruit.  After  a  prolonged 
period  of  dry  weather  showers  fail  to  have  much  impression  on  the  soil 
about  the  roots,  hence  it  becomes  desirable,  especially  with  Scarlet 
Runners,  to  give  moisture  copiously  to  the  roots  at  intervals  to  enable 
a  good  crop  of  pods  to  set.  When  the  growths  reach  the  top  of  the 
stakes,  whether  the  latter  are  long  or  short,  top  them.  This  is  also  of 
assistance  in  helping  the  flowers  to  set  well. 
Brussels  Sprouts. — The  plants,  which  ought  to  be  strengthened  by 
previously  pricking  them  out  in  a  nursery  bed,  should  be  planted  out 
finally  now.  These  make  a  good  succession  to  the  earlier  rows,  which 
by  this  time  ought  to  be  well  established  and  growing  freely.  Keep 
the  ground  between  them  clean  and  free  from  weeds. 
Savoys. — The  earliest  varieties  of  Savoys  may  be  planted  out  so  as 
to  form  hearts  early  in  autumn,  deferring  placing  out  the  main  orop 
until  July.  In  the  meantime,  however,  the  latter  should  not  be  allowed 
to  remain  crowded  in  seed  beds.  Like  other  winter  Greens,  they  are  the 
better  for  transplanting,  where  each  plant  can  have  space  to  develop 
steadily  and  produce  abundance  of  fibrous  roots. 
Broocoli. — The  autumn  and  early  winter  varieties  should  be  finally 
planted  on  very  firm  ground.  The  later  sorts  need  not  as  yet  be  placed 
out  finally,  but  they  ought  to  remain  in  the  seed  or  nursery  beds 
without  being  orowded,  and  so  that  they  can  be  lifted  and  planted 
readily  as  other  crops  are  cleared  off. 
Cucumbers. — In  houses  the  plants  must  be  cleared  of  superfluous 
growths,  yellow  leaves,  and  young  shoots  tied  out,  stopping  one  or  two 
joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Top-dress  the  roots  with  rich  material,  into 
which  the  young  fibres  will  push  and  multiply.  In  frames  the  same 
process  of  constantly  thinning-out  and  regulating  growth  is  necessary, 
also  stopping  the  shoots  and  liberally  treating  the  roots.  Frequently 
applying  a  layer  of  rich  soil,  in  which  some  artificial  manure  is  mixed, 
will  prove  most  stimulating.  Due  supplies  of  water  should  be  afforded 
the  beds  on  the  least  dryness  becoming  apparent.  Also  supply  weak 
liquid  manure  or  soot  water  as  a  stimulant  and  feeder  of  the  roots.  Do 
not  allow  fruits  to  remain  too  long  on  the  plants,  they  being  exhausting. 
If  young  plants  are  available  and  vacant  frames,  place  in  the  latter  some 
good  soil,  and  one  plant  under  each  light.  Keep  close,  lightly  shade, 
and  sprinkle  daily  until  established ;  afterwards  regular  supplies 
of  air,  moisture,  and  the  ordinary  treatment  afforded  to  other  frames. 
These  will  furnish  a  good  late  crop. 
