54S 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
June  27,  1901. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Summer  Pruning. — Summer  prnniDg  of  various  fruit  trees,  comprising 
wall,  bnsh,  cordoD,  and  pyramidal  forms,  iB  an  operation  which,  on 
the  whole,  can  be  extended  over  several  weeks  with  general  advantage. 
Some  trees  are  benefited  more  by  early  attention  in  subduing  and 
regulating,  while  others  may  remain  later  in  order  that  their  excessive 
vigour  may  somewhat  expend  itself,  and  thus  prevent  the  likely 
possibility  of  secondary  growths  starting  from  the  basal  bods.  Apples, 
for  instance,  do  not  require  so  early  summer  pruning  as  Pears  and 
the  majority  of  stone  fruit  trees,  nor  is  it  necessary  to  prune  or  shorten 
shoots  of  large  and  established  trees  so  early  as  cordons,  which  depend 
mainly  upon  a  continued  fruitful  condition  by  systematic  attention 
from  the  period  when  full  sized  basal  leaves  are  formed. 
Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines. — The  first  fruits  to  be  dealt  with, 
if 'they  already  have  not  had  some  attention,  which  they  should  have 
had  ere  this,  are  the  above.  Superfluous,  but  well  placed  shoots  may, 
instead  of  being  cut  out  entirely,  be  shortened  to  three  leaves,  thus 
enabling  them  to  form  spur  growths.  Upon  the  whole,  however,  this 
form  of  pruning  should  not  be  practised  to  any  great  extent,  seeing  that 
these  fruits — Peaches  and  Nectarines  especially — bear  so  well  on  young 
well-ripened  growths  which  have  been  laid  in  from  the  previous  season. 
Therefore,  let  the  summer  pruning  be  chiefly  directed  towards  securing 
a  sufficiency  of  growths,  one  from  the  base  of  each  fruiting  shoot,  to 
take  the  place  of  the  latter  when  the  crop  has  been  gathered,  serving 
the  purpose.  If  not  convenient  to  do  this  in  all  cases,  suitable  growths 
may  be  found  in  other  positions,  laying  them'  in  full  length  close  to  the 
wall  or  trellis.  Avoid,  however,  gross  shoots  on  the  one  hand,  or  those 
lacking  vigour  on  the  other.  Other  growths  on  the  fruiting  shoots 
may  be  gradually  dispensed  with,  but  the  aim  must  be,  if  the  early  and 
necessary  disbudding  has  been  neglected,  not  to  cut  long  growths  out 
so  as  to  cause  a  decided  check.  Carefully  going  over  the  trees  at 
frequent  intervals  will  obviate  this.  The  leading  growth  oh  fruiting 
shoots  may  be  stopped  two  or  three  joints  above  the  fruit,  though  if 
the  growth  is  weakly  do  not  stop  at  all.  Trees  that  have  been  properly 
disbudded  and  attended  to  from  the  first  require  but  little  at  the 
present  time.  Where  gross  growths  are  seen  to  be  pushing  rub  or  cut 
these  out  entirely,  maintaining  legitimate  growths  well  secured,  so  as 
to  receive  the  benefit  of  ample  light  and  air. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — Where  the  summer  growths  on  wall  and 
restricted  trees  are  numerous  thin  out  the  weakest  entirely.  Shorten 
the  rest  to  three  leaves.  It  is  not  always  desirable  to  shorten  the 
whole  of  the  growths  to  form  spurs,  as  Plums  are  prolific  if  a  certain 
amount  of  young  wood  is  allowed  to  form,  laying  it  in  in  vaoant  places, 
when  it  will  fruit  the  second  year,  if  not  the  first. 
Morello  Cherries  are  like  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  most  prolific  on 
young  ripened  growths  of  the  previous  year ;  therefore  lay  these  in 
freely  with  the  view  to  furnishing  the  space  with  some  of  these  growths. 
Superfluous  shoots  may  be  shortened  to  three  leaves  to  form  spurs, 
but  a  large  proportion  of  such  will  not  be  required,  and  these  only  in 
the  best  positions. 
Standard  Plums  and  Cherries  require  no  pruning  in  the  way  of 
shortening  shoots.  Thinning  out  crowded  branches  may  be  oarried 
out  after  the  crops  have  been  gathered. 
Apples  and  Pears. — A  commencement  may  be  made  in  shortening 
the  shoots  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  trees,  dealing  with  cordons,  bushes, 
and  pyramids.  Weaker  shoots,  and  those  towards  the  base,  may  be 
left  a  little  later,  or  to  the  last.  On  strong  shoots  leave  four  leaves, 
six  on  those  less  vigorous.  Where  there  is  a  mass  of  growths  thin  out 
the  weakest. 
Outdoor  Figs. — Figs  on  walls  or  gable  ends  having  made  free 
growth  must  have  some  reduction  made  in  the  number  of  shoots  if 
these  are  too  numerous.  Retain  those  of  a  stout  and  short- jointed 
character  and  lay  them  in  full  length.  The  fruiting  shoots  may  be 
pinched  a  few  joints  above  the  fruit  where  the  growths  are  strong. 
Weakly  but  fruitful  shoots  will  not  require  stopping. 
Outdoor  Vines. — The  side  shoots  bearing  the  fruit  ought  all  by  this 
to  be  laid  in  and  stopped  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches.  Sub 
laterals  when  they  push,  pinch  to  one  joint.  Lay  in  strong  growths 
from  the  base  for  future  bearing. 
Red  and  White  Currants. — Continue  or  complete  the  summer 
shortening  of  these,  as  the  growth  is  invariably  made  early,  and  the 
sooner  now  it  is  restricted  the  better  for  the  benefit  of  the  fruit,  whicl 
is  likely  to  be  much  covered  up  by  foliage  prior  to  the  summer  pruning. 
In  all  cases,  whether  the  trees  are  growing  as  bushes,  or  on  walls  or 
fences,  the  method  cf  pruning  is  the  same — namely,  shortening  the 
growths  to  three  pairs  of  leaves.  The  leaders  may  be  left  entire,  also 
a  few  growths  from  the  base  to  furnish  new  branches  if  necessary. 
Gooseberries. — If  grown  on  walls  and  fences  summer  shortening  of 
shoots  is  neoessary  in  a  manner  similar  to  Red  Currants,  so  as  to  favour 
the  production  of  fruit  buds  close  to  the  main  stems.  Bushes  in  the 
open  are  mainly  grown  in  a  less  formal  manner,  this  method  always 
resulting  in  securing  a  crop  when  spur-pruned  bushes  are  liable  to  fail 
owing  to  the  loss  of  buds  in  winter  by  birds. 
Strawberries. — The  protection  of  the  crop  from  damp,  mildew,  slugs 
and  birds,  must  be  attended  to.  To  avoid  the  former  evils  the  trusses 
of  fruit  should  rest  upon  dry,  clean  material,  such  as  long  straw,  slates, 
or  glass,  or  be  supported  by  forked  sticks.  Birds  can  only  be  kept  from 
ripe  fruits  by  nets,  which  should  be  supported  over  the  beds  by  a 
framework  of  laths  or  wires.  Trusses  of  fruit  swelling  prior  to  colouring 
may  be  fed  by  liquid  manure,  which  should  not  be  of  a  thick  and  muddy 
character,  the  sediment  from  which  will  be  likely  to  stain  the  fruit,  but 
clear  and  readily  absorbed. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — When  these  are  very 
early  and  continuously  forced  to  have  the  fruit  ripe  in  May  and  early 
in  June,  the  energy  of  the  trees  is  severely  taxed.  It  is  necessary, 
therefore,  to  rest  the  trees,  and  re-invigorate  them  as  much  as  possible, 
without  inducing  too  much  lateral  growth  or  even  starting  the  blossom 
buds,  or  some  of  them.  We  have  occasionally  had  trees  of  the  Early 
York  race  blossoming  in  late  August  and  early  September,  they  being 
started  at  the  New  Year.  This  we  attributed  to  the  manurial  matter 
being  in  excess  of  the  elaborating  functions  of  the  leaves,  and  also  to 
the  early  maturity  of  the  buds,  the  varieties  being  early  bud  formers. 
The  house,  after  the  fruit  is  all  gathered,  should  be  ventilated  to  the 
fullest  extent,  and  when  the  wood  is  sufficiently  matured  the  roof-lights 
may  be  removed  at  the  close  of  the  present  month,  or  earlier.  In  other 
cases  ventilate  to  the  fullest  extent,  and  duly  attend  to  watering  the 
borders,  not  allowing  them  to  become  too  dry,  and  not  giving  needless 
supplies,  as  the  former  tends  to  premature  maturity  of  the  buds  and  the 
latter  to  a  late  growth,  or  even  ill-health  in  the  trees,  by  too  wet, 
sodden,  and  sour  condition  of  the  soil.  Keep  the  laterals  clean  by 
occasional  syringing,  and,  if  necessary,  apply  an  insecticide.  Laterals 
must  be  stopped,  but  a  little  growth  insures  steady  root  action,  and 
prevents  the  buds  and  foliage  maturing  too  early.  All  shoots  that  have 
supported  fruit,  and  are  no  longer  required,  should  be  removed,  in  order 
to  let  air  and  light  freely  to  the  growth,  and  if  there  is  too  much 
crowding  of  the  growths,  thin  the  shoots  for  next  year’s  bearing 
judiciously. 
Young  Trees.— Disbudding  is  an  essential  in  the  early  stages  of 
growth.  The  principal  branches  or  shoots  to  form  them  should  be  12 
to  15  inohes  distance  apart,  and  the  shoots  for  bearing  disposed  about 
15  inches  asunder  along  last  year’s  wood,  stopping  them,  if  necessary, 
at  that  extent  of  growth,  and  the  laterals  to  one  joint  as  produced  ;  the 
extension,  or  main  shoots,  should  be  trained  in  their  full  length,  provided 
they  are  evenly  balanced.  Any  gross  shoots  may  be  stopped,  as  they 
are  a  great  inducement  to  gnmming.  Ventilate  early  in  the  day, 
increase  it  with  the  advancing  temperature,  leaving  on  a  little  air 
constantly.  Essential  growths  must  be  trained  so  that  sun  and  air 
have  free  access  to  them. 
Preparing  Strawberries  in  Pots  for  Forcing. — Success  in  forcing 
Strawberries  depends  greatly  on  strong  and  well-matured  plants.  Two 
methods  of  securing  them  are  in  vogue.  One  is  to  layer  the  runners 
in  3-inch  pots,  half  plunged  between  alternate  rows  of  one-year-old 
fruit-bearing  plants,  which  leaves  spaoe  for  gathering  the  fruit  of  the 
parents  and  watering  the  runners.  The  pots  are  filled  within  half  an 
inch  of  the  rim  with  rough,  turfy  loam,  pressed  firmly,  and  an  indent 
made  in  the  centre  of  the  pot  about  half  an  inch  deep,  the  first  plantlet 
of  the  runner  placed  therein,  secured  with  a  peg.  The  point  of  each 
runner  is  out  off  just  beyond  the  plantlet,  and  the  soil  kept  moist  ;  the 
runners  will  be  well  rooted  in  about  three  weeks.  Five-inch  pots  are 
employed  for  plants  to  be  started  before,  or  with,  the  New  Year,  6-inch 
pots  for  those  to  be  started  afterwards.  Broken  oyster  shells  are 
excellent  drainage,  but  half-inch  bones  are  best  avoided,  as  they 
encourage  pests.  Loam  from  turves  cut  2  inches  thick,  where  the  soil 
is  of  a  friable  nature,  and  stacked  until  the  herbage  has  decayed,  forms 
a  substantial  part  of  the  compost.  The  turf  should  be  torn  up  roughly, 
or  in  pieces  of  1  or  2  inohes,  and  to  it  be  added  a  fifth  of  well-decayed 
manure  free  from  worms,  or  sweetened  horse  droppings,  also  a  half¬ 
pint  of  soot  and  bonemeal,  with  a  pint  of  wood  ashes  to  every  bushel  of 
the  loam  and  manure,  incorporating  the  whole  well  together,  and  having 
the  compost  neither  dry  nor  wet,  but  moist  for  ramming  firmly.  Place 
some  of  the  roughest  portions  of  the  compost  on  the  drainage,  ram  it, 
and  add  enough  so  that  when  the  plant  is  introduced  the  base  of  the 
crown  will  be  three-quarters  of  an  inch  below  the  rim  of  5-inch  and 
1  inch  of  the  6-inoh  pots.  Place  each  plant  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the 
pot,  ram  the  soil  hard,  just  covering  all  the  roots,  and  having  the  whole 
of  the  plant  to  the  base  of  the  leaves  above  the  soil.  The  site  for  the 
plants  must  be  open  to  the  sun  and  air,  but  sheltered  from  winds,  and 
the  standage  of  such  nature  as  to  exclude  worms,  6  to  9  inohes  of  ashes 
forming  a  good  flooring  for  the  plants,  which  should  stand  just  clear  of 
each  ether,  keeping  all  runners  pinched  off  and  removiug  weeds.  Water 
is  required  carefully  at  first,  just  keeping  the  soil  moist,  and  in  the 
evening  of  hot  days  sprinkling  the  plants.  When  well  established  in 
i  he  pots  copious  supplies  of  water  are  required,  never  allowing  the  leaves 
to  flag  or  making  the  soil  sodden. 
