92 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  24,  1902. 
to  a  hard  base  where  they  may  stand  closely  together  until 
required  to  plant  or  pot.  Afford  sufficient  room  to  runners 
recently  epgged  down,  and  continue  to  select  the  best  of  others 
for  the  same  purpose  until  the  whole  of  the  stock  required  has 
been  obtained.  Beds  which  have  been  the  longest  in  existence 
ought,  if  giving  signs  of  deteriorating,  to  have  the  plants  cut  or 
pared  off  close  to  the  ground,  left  to  dry,  and  then  be  burnt. 
Before  occupying  the  ground  with  another  crop  thoroughly 
trench  and  manure.  As  soon  as  possible  after  fruit  has  been 
.gathered  and  the  best  runners  secured,  clear  away  the  whole  of 
the  growth  between  the  rows. — East  Kent. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES :  IN  POTS  FOR  EARLY  FORCING.— The  Vines  for 
starting  in  November,  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  in  late  March  or 
early  in  April,  should  be  of  the  early  and  sure  forcing  varieties, 
such  as  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh, 
and  Madresfield  Court;  and  now  have  the  wood  ripe,  thoroughly 
hardened,  and  the  buds  plump.  If  there  be  any  doubt  about 
these  matters,  keep  the  house  rather  warmer  by  day,  80deg  to 
85deg,  closing  early  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  90deg 
or  95deg,  and  open  the  ventilators  at  night.  Afford  sufficient 
water  to  prevent  the  leaves  flagging,  or  liquid  manure  may  be 
given  to  help  them  to  plump  the  buds.  The  foliage  cannot  have 
too  much  light.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  check,  leaving  no 
more  than  absolutely  necessary  to  appropriate  any  sap  that  may 
be  in  excess  of  the  leaf  requirements,  and  so  prevent  the  principal 
buds  starting.  When  sufficiently  ripened,  as  indicated  by  the 
wood  being  brown  and  hard,  and  the  buds  prominent,  they  may 
be  removed  to  a  position  outdoors  in  the  full  sun,  standing  on 
boards  or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall  or  fence,  securing  the 
canes  to  the  face  of  the  wall,  only  giving  water  to  prevent  the 
foliage  falling  prematurely,  and  having  some  waterproof  material 
to  throw  the  water  from  the  pots  in  case  of  heavy  rain.  In  this 
position  they  will  rest,  even  if  the  leaves  are  not  shed.  When 
the  leaves  turn  yellow,  or  the  falling  hue,  commence  reducing 
the  laterals,  and  when  most  are  off  cut  them  in  closely,  and 
shorten  the  canes  to  the  length  required,  placing  them  in  an 
airy  shed  or  cool,  dry  place,  until  the  time  arrives  for  forcing. 
Keep  the  soil  dry,  yet  not  so  dry  as  to  cause  the  wood  to  shrivel. 
EARLIEST  FORCED  HOUSES.— This  will  vary  as  to  time 
in  different  establishments,  but  it  is  not  desirable,  as  a  rule,  to 
start  permanent  Vines  before  the  beginning  of  December,  so  as 
to  afford  a  supply  of  ripe  Grapes  from  the  end  of  April  or  begin¬ 
ning  of  May  onwards.  A  dry  atmosphere  is  desirable  for  the 
thorough  ripening  of  the  wood,  but  it  will  not  be  necessary, 
exoept  in  the  case  of  young  Vines  not  forced  early  before,  to 
employ  artificial  heat.  All  laterals  should  be  kept  stopped,  and 
rest  gradually  induced  by  keeping  the  house  cool  and  the  border 
dry.  Inside  borders,  however,  may  require  watering,  but  if  they 
have  been  mulched  it  may  not  be  necessary,  and  outside  borders 
will  not  take  any  harm,  provided  they  are  of  sound  materials  and 
well  drained.  Premature  ripening  of  the  foliage  is  undesirable, 
and  is  generally  occasioned  by  destruction  of  the  leaves  through 
red  spider  or  too  dry  an  atmosphere  and  deficiency  of  water  at 
the  roots.  Where  the  Vines  are  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition 
prepare  for  lifting  at  an  early  date,  getting  fresh  loam  and  clean 
drainage,  so  that  the  work  may  be  done  quickly  when  started. 
There  is  no  danger  of  losing  a  crop  provided  these  operations  are 
properly  and  promptly  performed.  It  is  desirable  to  lift  the 
roots  and  place  them  in  fresh  soil  nearer  the  surface  whilst  there 
is  foliage  on  the  Vines ;  therefore  work  of  this  kind  ought  not 
to  be  delayed  in  the  case  of  Vines  that  are  to  be  started  early 
in  December,  which  will  need  pruning  by  the  middle  of  September, 
or  a  little  later  in  the  case  of  lifted  Vines.  In  the  case  of  Vines 
that  have  not  before  been  started  early,  and  are  required  for 
affording  ripe  Grapes  at  the  end  of  April  or  early  in  May  next 
season,  it  will  be  necessary  to  prepare  them  for  the  process, 
cleansing  them  thoroughly  by  syringing  or  an  insecticide  as  soon 
as  the  crop  is  off ;  and,  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  ripening  the 
wood  or  plumping  the  buds,  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  house 
rather  close  by  day,  but  with  sufficient  ventilation  to  cause 
evaporation  and  allow  the  moisture  to  escape.  Give  no  more 
water  at  the  roots  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp. 
If  the  weather  prove  cold  and  wet  employ  fire  heat  in  the  day¬ 
time  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  70deg  to  75deg,  with  moderate 
ventilation,  and  turn  the  heat  off  at  night  to  allow  the  pipes 
to  cool.  This  will  soon  cause  the  buds  to  plump,  the  wood  to 
ripen,  and  induce  rest,  which,  for  Vines  to  be  started  at  the 
time  named,  should  be  complete  by  the  middle  to  the  end  of 
September.  When  the  Vines  have  the  wood  ripe  ventilate  fully 
day  and  night. 
SECOND  EARLY  VINES. — Those  started  at  the  New  Year 
have  the  crops  cleared,  and  should  be  cleansed  by  means  of 
the  syringe  or  engine,  and,  if  needful,  by  applying  an  insecticide. 
If  there  be  any  mealy  bug  or  scale  use  netroleum,  a  wineglassful 
to  4  gallons  of  water,  in  which  8oz  of  softsoap  and  loz  of  washing 
soda  have  been  dissolved,  keeping  the  mixture  well  agitated 
whilst  it  is  being  applied  by  alternately  squirting  syringefuls  of 
the  mixture  into  the  vessel  and  over  the  Vines,  wetting  these 
and  every  part  of  the  house  thoroughly.  It  is  best  done  on  a 
calm  evening,  and  should  be  repeated  at  intervals  of  a  few  days, 
and  is  best  applied  at  a  temperature  of  135deg.  If  there  are  any 
plants  they  must  be  removed,  and  if  the  roots  of  the  Vines  be 
near  the  surface  cover  the  border  with  dry  short  material  to 
absorb  the  waste.  Keep  the  laterals  fairly  in  check,  but  not 
closely  pinched,  unless  the  Vines  are  very  vigorous  and  not 
ripening  the  wood  well,  then  keeping  the  house  rather  dry  at 
night  with  all  the  air  possible,  and  somewhat  close  and  warm  by 
day,  will  tend  to  promote  the  maturity  of  the  wood  and  buds. 
In  stopping  vigorous  Vines  regard  must  be  had  to  the  principal 
buds,  not  pinching  them  so  close  as  to  cause  them  to  start  into 
growth.  Such  Vines  should  be  kept  without  water  until  the 
leaves  are  a  little  limp,  but  not  to  the  extent  of  flagging.  Vines 
that,  on  the  other  hand,  are  not  strong,  having  been  enfeebled 
by  continuous  cropping  or  other  causes,  should  be  encouraged  to 
make  growth  by  applying  liquid  manure  to  the  border,  or  top- 
dressings  of  the  advertised  fertilisers  washed  in;  but,  whatever 
extraneous  foliage  is  made,  must  not  be  allowed  to  interfere 
with  the  free  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  principal  leaves,  which 
should  be  kept  clean  and  healthy,  so  that  they  may  appropriate 
some  of  the  extra  food,  assimilating  and  storing  it  in  the  adjacent 
wood.  Ventilate  freely  day  and  night. 
GRAPES  RIPENING. — Admit  air  constantly,  enough  with 
a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  insure  a  circulation.  In  ripening 
most  Grapes  swell  considerably,  therefore  a  certain  amount  of 
air  moisture  is  necessary,  and  there  must  not  be  any  deficiency 
of  water  at  the  roots.  Give  the  border  a  thorough  supply  if 
necessary  in  the  early  part  of  a-  fine  day,  so  that  the  superfluous 
moisture  may  be  dissipated  before  night.  Avoid,  however,  making 
the  soil  sodden  and  sour  by  needless  applications  of  water  or 
liquid  manure,  as  this  condition  at  the  roots  invariably  results  in 
shanking.  If  the  Vines  are  heavily  cropped,  afford  substantial 
food,  such  as  nitrates,  phosphates,  and  sulphates,  or  the  adver¬ 
tised  fertilisers,  which  act  promptly  and  steadily,  and  allow  them 
plenty  of  time,  otherwise,  if  there  be  any  hastening  of  the  ripening 
and  a  deficiency  of  moisture  and  nourishment,  it  is  likely  the 
fruit  will  be  defective  in  colour.  A  temperature  of  60deg  to  65deg 
at  night,  with  air,  is  a  great  help  to  Vines  with  a.  heavy  -weight 
of  Grapes.  If  kept  wanner  at  night  the  Grapes  ripen  faster  and 
colour  less  freely.  A  temperature,  of  70deg  to  75deg  by  day 
from  fire  heat  is  ample,  for  heat  will  not  impart  colour.  A 
moderate  moisture  should  be  secured  by  damping  occasionally, 
and,  if  possible,  allow  the  laterals  to  extend,  for  it  is  chlorophyll 
that  is  needed ;  but  over-burdened  Vines  rarely  push  laterals, 
having  enough  to  do  to  supply  the  principal  foliage  and  Grapes 
with  nourishment. — St.  Albans. 
Meteorological  Observations  at  Chiswick. 
Taken  in  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society’s  Gardens  at  Chis¬ 
wick,  height  above  sea  level  24  feet. 
Date. 
Temperature  of  the 
Air. 
Temperature  of 
the  Soil. 
At  9  A.M. 
© 
1902. 
July. 
H 
43  .-4 
9  > 
At  9  a.m.  ! 
Day. 
Night 
c 
‘3 
At 
1-ft. 
deep. 
At 
2-ft. 
deep. 
At 
4-ft. 
deep. 
t-l  4 
3  03 
r;  cr> 
7  cj  i 
®  2  n 
£  oj  rtj 
j- 
3 
1 
Dry 
Bulb. 
Wet 
Bulb. 
433 
03 
03 
bfl 
5 
43> 
03 
© 
•£ 
o 
J 
i_3  g  a 
0)  ° 
Sunday  ...13 
s.w. 
deg. 
64-1 
deg. 
56-2 
deg. 
78-4 
deg. 
51-2 
Ins. 
deg. 
60-3 
deg. 
59-8 
deg. 
57-2 
deg. 
452 
Monday  ...14 
s.w. 
74-4 
61-0 
84 ’6 
49'3 
— 
61-2 
60-0 
57-2 
44-5 
Tuesday  ...15 
N.W. 
68-9 
62-7 
828 
55-3 
— 
62-5 
60-3 
57-2 
45-3 
Wed’sday  16 
N.W. 
69-9 
62-2 
75-0 
57-0 
— 
633 
60-8 
57-2 
47  "0 
Thursday  17 
N.E. 
66-2 
58-3 
73-5 
50-5 
— 
62-2 
60  9 
57-2 
430 
Friday  ...18 
N  W. 
61-0 
54-0 
67-5 
47-3 
— 
61-9 
60-7 
57-5 
393 
Saturday  19 
N.N.W. 
56-2 
52-2 
66-2 
44-2 
003 
60-2 
60-5 
57-5 
35  3 
Means  ... 
65-8 
58-1 
75-4 
50-7 
Total. 
0  03 
61'7 
60-4 
57-2 
42-8 
The  first  part  of  the  week  wras  bright  and  very  warm,  the  latter 
part  was  dull  and  much  cooler. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
Alex.  Dalliere,  Gaud,  Belgium. — Autumn  Price  List  (1902)  of  Stove 
and  Greenhouse  Plants. 
E.  H.  Krelage  &  Son,  Haarlem.  Holland. — Dutch  Bulbs. 
Ant.  Roozen  &  Son,  Overveen,  near  Haarlem. — Dutch  a?id  Cape  Bulbs. 
