August  7,  1902. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
139 
If 
m 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
Purchasing  and  Moving  Bees. 
- - — J 
The  best  time  to  purchase  bees  is  the  spring  or  autumn. 
The  advantages  cf  a  spring  purchase  are  that  there  is  no  risk 
cf  loss  during  t lie  winter,  and  in  most  cases  by  the  end  of  the 
season  they  have  repaid  the  initial  outlay;  in  the  autumn  bees 
are,  of  course,  less  expensive.  It  is  not  advisable  to  buy  stocks 
which  are  not  in  modern  frame  hives,  as  they  are  to  a  certain 
extent  unmanageable,  while  transferring  involves  considerable 
trouble  in  addition  to  the  risk  of  incurring  disease.  If  swarms 
are  desired,  be  careful  to  obtain  them  from  an  apiary  free 
from  disease,  and  from  hives  which  swarmed  the  previous  year, 
the  queens  will  then  be  in  their  prime.  Second  swarms  are 
generally  weak,  and  consequently  unprofitable.  It  is  more 
satisfactory  to  purchase  swarms  by  weight.  There  are  between 
four  and  five  thousand  bees  in  a  pound,  and  a  good  swarm  con¬ 
sists  of  five  pounds  or  seven  quarts.  Newly  hived  swarms 
should  be  removed  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day  that  they 
issue,  as  they  mark  the  location,  and  a  subsequent  removal 
means  the  loss  of  many  bees.  If  the  swarm  is  in  a  skep  or  box 
cover  with  open  cloth  and  carry  mouth  downwards.  It  is  now 
generally  admitted  that  if  purchased  early  enough,  better 
results  can  be  obtained  from  a  nucleus  which  costs  about  the 
same  as  a  swarm. 
Stocks  in  bar-frame  hives  should  be  well  packed  before 
removal,  which  may  take  place  when  the  temperature  will  not 
interfere  with  the  stability  cf  the  combs.  There  is  always  an 
element  of  risk  and  some  difficulty  in  packing  stocks  securely 
for  a  journey,  but  with  care  they  should  travel  safely  any 
distance.  Jarring  disturbs  the  bees,  causing  them  to  generate 
a  high  temperature,  which  increases  the  liability  of  a  break¬ 
down.  April  or  September  are  by  far  the  best  and  safest 
months.  After  the  weather  has  prevented  long  flights  they 
may  be  moved  at  any  time  when  the  distance  is  above  half  a 
mile.  The  effect  of  the  excitement  caused  by  moving  in  April 
is  a  beneficial  stimulant.  When  disturbed  earlier,  the  un¬ 
natural  temperature  caused  is  injurious. 
Bees  when  excited  fill  themselves  with  honey,  this  occurs 
under  confinement  ;  when  liberated  they  fly,  and  after  many 
erratic  movements,  if  the  temperature  is  low,  fall  to  the 
ground  chilled  and  die.  The  results  of  such  losses  in  the  early 
part  of  the  year  cannot  be  estimated,  as  the  brood  in  its  differ¬ 
ent  stages  is  entirely  dependent  upon  the  warmth  being  main¬ 
tained.  A  week  or  two  later  makes  all  the  difference,  as  the 
hatching  of  the  young  bees  reduces  this  risk  to  a  minimum. 
The  inexpert  should  remember  that  in  all  methods  of  transit 
the  ends  of  the  combs  should  face  the  direction  in  which  they 
are  going,  so  that  if  the  combs  are  fitted  with  metal  ends  it 
is  impossible  for  them  to  bump  against  each  other  and  crush 
the  bees  between  them.  Before  removing  bar-frame  hives  it 
is  necessary  to  place  a  piece  of  open  sacking  or  cheese-cloth 
over  the  frames  in  lieu  of  the  quilt,  for  ventilation,  then  fasten 
with  screws  a  strip  of  wood  2in  wide  along  the  whole  of  the 
bar  ends  on  each  side  of  the  body  box.  This,  if  properly  done, 
will  make  the  bars  perfectly  rigid.  All  the  hive  parts  must 
then  be  fastened  so  that  they  cannot  move.  Nails  are  objection¬ 
able  for  the  purpose,  as  they  necessitate  the  use  of  a  hammer 
to  drive  the  nails,  irritating  the  bees  and  probably  breaking 
the  combs.  Old  wired  combs  travel  better  than  new  ones.  The 
closing  of  the  entrance  with  a  strip  of  perforated  zinc  com¬ 
pletes  the  work  of  packing.  Whether  it  is  intended  to  travel 
by  rail  or  road  it  is  advisable  to  pad  the  bottom  of  the  hive 
legs  with  straw  to  lessen  the  vibration.  On  arrival  at  destina¬ 
tion,  place  them  in  the  desired  position  and  allowT  them  to 
settle  before  releasing  them.  A  day  or  two  afterwards  a  care¬ 
ful  examination  should  be  made  to  ascertain  whether  the  combs 
or  queens  have  sustained  any  injury. 
The  precision  and  accuracy  with  which  bees  will  find  the 
exact  position  of  their  hive  is  remarkable.  They  follow  their 
track  unerringly  guided  by  sensations  cf  an  unknown  nature, 
among  which  sight  plays  a  great  part.  In  finding  their  way 
they  are  first  guided  by  objects  such  as  high  chimneys  and 
clumps  of  trees,  until  the  accustomed  surroundings  are  recog¬ 
nised,  when  they  alight  without  hesitation  on  their  stand.  If 
the  whole  apiary  was  removed  about  2ft  or  3ft  further 
away,  and  the  relative  positions  retained,  it  would  not  incon¬ 
venience  them.  Therefore  if  Ave  are  not  satisfied  with  the 
stand  cf  one  of  the  colonies  and  desire  to  move  it  a  distance 
of  less  than  half  a  mile,  it  should  be  allowed  to  remain  until 
the  bees  are  dormant  before  removal.  After  confinement 
during  a  cold  spell  they  re-mark  their  position  and  naturally 
return  to  the  new  location.  The  position  of  a  hive  can  only 
be  altered  in  the  summer  months  by  moving  it  about  2ft  each 
day,  not  counting  those  on  which  the  bees  do  not  fly,  or 
removing  them  to  the  selected  spot  in  the  morning  or  evening 
when  the  bees  are  quiet,  and  placing  a  piece  of  board  or  some 
unusual  obstruction  in  front  of  the  entrance  so  as  to  interfere 
with  their  flight ;  this  to  them  being  an  inexplicable  object  is 
at  once  noticed  and  the  position  marked,  thus  enabling  them 
to  find  their  AA-ay  back  Avithout  difficulty. — E.  E.,  Sandbach. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
FEEDING  OUTDOOR  PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES.— It 
is  only  when  carrying  a  crop  that  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  stone 
fruits  generally,  should,  as  a  rule,  receive  any  extra  stimulating 
food,  except,  perhaps,  Avhen  groAvth  is  of  a  somewhat  weakly 
character,  and  Avould  be  improved  by  additional  help.  When 
bearing  fruit,  the  demands  of  the  trees  for  food  and  moisture  are 
heavy,  and  if  not  properly  supplied,  undersized  fruit  and 
impaired  quality  are  the  result.  Excess  of  food  without  fruit 
results  in  strong  and  sappy  groAvth,  which  is  never  productive, 
OAving  to  failure  to  ripen  it  sufficiently.  A  good  manure  for 
Peaches  and  Nectarines,  as  Avell  as  Vines,  is  Thomson’s  Vine  and 
plant  manure.  To  healthy  trees  with  abundant  roots  spreading 
in  moist  soil,  scatter  the  manure  on  the  surface,  2oz  to  the 
square  yard,  and  water  it  in,  giving  this,  at  intervals  of  a  week 
until  the  fruits  begin  to  colour.  As  a  change,  watering  AA;ith 
liquid  manure,  toned  down  to  a  safe  strength,  may  be  applied. 
When  the  surface  of  the  border  is  fully  exposed  to  the  drying 
influence  of  sun  and  wind,  with  the  additional  heat  Avhich  brick 
walls  absorb/assisting  in  abstracting  moisture,  help  for  the  roots 
will  be  derived  if  a  mulching  of  a  light  character  is  applied,  so 
that  rapid  evaporation  may  be  prevented. 
OUTDOOR  VINES. — The  growth  must  be  kept  well  in  hand, 
not  allowing  large  quantities  of  superfluous  shoots  to  extend  and 
then  shorten  them  Avholesale.  This  ghTes  a  decided  check  to  the 
trees  which  is  not  desirable.  Maintain  a  little  extension  of 
groAvth  beyond  the  bunches  of  fruit,  according  to  the  amount  of 
space  available.  When  stopping  is  required,  do  it  when  the  shoots 
are  soft.  Extension  groAvths,  to  be  eventually  used  as  fruiting 
canes,  ought  not  to  extend  too  long  without  a  stopping,  not  more 
than  4ft  or  5ft,  even  if  free  growth  is  permitted  aftenvards. 
The  stopping  helps  to  plump  up  the  lower  buds,  and  with  plenty 
of  room  alloAved  the  main  leaves  the  canes  will  strengthen  and 
ripen.  Assist  the  bunches  to  sAvell  with  ample  moisture,  con¬ 
sisting  of  water  and  liquid  manure,  and  protect  the  roots  by 
mulching. 
BLACKBERRIES. — Having  secured  an  ample  crop  of  fruit, 
afford  every  assistance  to  help  its  development.  In  the  first 
place,  suppress  the  whole  of  the  Aveakly  growth  that  bears  no 
fruit.  The  strong  and  long  canes  which  are  being  produced  may 
be  tied  in,  but  in  such  manner  that  they  are  able  to  receive  the 
ripening  influences  of  light  and  air.  This  treatment  will  also 
give  the  fruit  more  exposure.  Blackberries  are  gross  feeders, 
and  an  ample  mulching  of  rich  manure  must  be  supplied,  on  to 
Avhich  liquid  manure  from  the  farmyard  can  be  freely  poured 
from  time  to  time. — East  Kent. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS.— Where  there  is  but  one  house  it  is  usual  to 
make  a  soAving  in  August  for  raising  plants  to  place  out  early  in 
September  to  yield  a  supply  of  fruit  by  December  and  onward, 
through  the  winter.  Where  there  is  convenience,  it  is  preferable 
to  rely  on  the  autumn  fruiters  for  a  supply  up  to,  and  over, 
Christmas,  when  plants  from  a  sowing  made  at  the  beginning  of 
September  will  be  in  good  bearing,  and  continue  the  supply  from 
the  early  parts  of  the  year  and  through  the  spring  months.  One 
of  the  best  Cucumbers  for  fruiting  all  through  the  year  is  a  true 
stock  of  the  old  Telegraph,  though  there  are  many  varieties  that 
also  possess  a  fine  deep  green  colour,  have  shorter  necks,  are 
heavy — a  point  of  some  consequence  Avhen  Cucumbers  are  sold 
by  Aveight,  and  are  of  good  quality.  Every  groAver  has  a  sort  of 
his  own  which  is  appreciated ;  but  there  is  very  little  difference 
in  many  Cucumbers  of  the  Telegraph  and  Rochford  types,  except 
for  sale,  Avhen  they  must  be  good  in  appearance  and  colour, 
straight,  heavy,  and  crisp.  The  Avork  of  clearing  out  the  house 
intended  for  the  plants,  the  seeds  of  which  have  been,  or  are 
about  to  be  sown,  should  be  pushed  fonvai’d,  and  attend  to  any 
repairs  that  may  be  necessary,  or  painting  of  the  house,  other¬ 
wise  thoroughly  cleanse  the  AvoodAvork  with  carbolic  soap  and 
water,  lime-wash  the  walls,  or  wash  them  with  iron  sulphate 
solution,  made  by  placing  6-llb  of  iron  sulphate  in  an  old  barrel, 
pouring  on  it  1  pint  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  then  adding  by  degrees 
121  gallons  of  water.  Clear  out  the  old  soil  and  disinfect  the  beds 
