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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  September  4,  1902. 
Chrysanthemum  C.  W.  Payne. 
This  is  a  sport  obtained  from  that  very  late  white,  Princess 
Victoria.  It  is  blush  pink,  a  pleasing  tint.  Late  pink  varieties 
are  valuable  for  cutting  purposes,  and  this  is  one  of  a  very  good 
type.  The  habit  of  the  plant  is  capital,  and  the  growth  easy. 
It  is  the  sort  that  will  lift  with  a  good  ball  of  earth,  and  there¬ 
fore  one  that  is  likely  to  be  esteemed  by  market  growers. 
Chrysanthemum  Mrs.  G.  Carpenter, 
I  am  pleased  with  this  almost  discarded  variety  as  a  late  pink. 
The  colour  is  very  dense  and  bright.  The  plant,  too,  has  a  bushy 
habit,  and  not  over-tall.  Its  flowers,  again,  have  quite  a  pleasing 
scent,  much  more  noticeable  than  in  the  case  of  most  Chrys¬ 
anthemums.  The  blooms  are  of  shaggy  Japanese  character,  of 
medium  size,  and  full.  It  should  be  tried  as  a  cut-flower  kind. 
Chrysanthemum  Queen  of  the  Exe. 
This  variety  has  proved  one  of  the  best  for  market  to  bloom 
at  Christmas.  The  flowers  are  like  that  popular  white  Niveus 
in  build  and  size,  but  the  great  improvement  in  the  newer  variety 
is  its  freedom  from  attacks  of  the  rust,  whilst  Niveus  is  one  of  the 
first  to  take  it.  The  habit  of  the  plant  is  good.  It  lifts  well,  and 
consequently  one  adapted  for  a  method  of  culture  now  pretty 
much  in  vogue  among  market  men.  The  flowers  open  slightly 
tinted,  but  when  fully  out  they  are  of  the  purest  white.  It  is 
a  good  one  to  last  in  a  cut  state,  and  the  blooms  are  elegant  in 
shape  with  fine  substance. — H.  S. 
English-raised  Seedlings. 
“  H.  S.,”  writing  in  the  spring  time,  did  well  to  style  the 
Hon.  F.  W.  D.  Smith  as  an  uncertain  variety.  Has  he  ever 
seen  a  really  meritorious  bloom  of  this  Japanese  Chrysanthemum, 
I  would  ask?  I  have  not  only  grown  it  and  failed  to  produce  a 
decent  bloom,  but  I  have  never  seen  anyone  else  do  so.  There 
seems  to  be  much  wrong  with  its  constitution.  The  colour  is  all 
that  could  be  desired,  but  its  lack  of  size  and  solidity  is  detri¬ 
mental. — E.  M. 
Regarding  Sports. 
I  know  of  but  two  instances  where  any  contrary  flower  forma¬ 
tion  exists  in  a  sport  from  that  of  its  parent.  These  two  instances 
are  peculiar,  and  happened  long  ago.  Mrs.  Forsythe,  reflexed, 
gave  an  incurved  sport,  John  Bradner;  and  George  Glenny,  in¬ 
curved,  produced  a  reflexed  variety,  Mrs.  Horril.  In  both  in¬ 
stances  the  progeny  retained  colour  identical  with  the  parents. 
Is  it  right  to  call  such  as  Ethel  Amsden  a  flower  at  all?  Is  it 
not  more  a  freak?  It  is  a  question  unanswerable  by  the  greatest- 
scientist.  It  does  seem  a  bit  passing  strange  that  there  are  so 
few  sports  now  with  so  many  varieties  as  compared  with  the 
number  there  were  from  ten  to  twenty  years  since.  Take,  for 
example,  the  quantity  that  sported  in  the  incurved  section  only. 
The  “Queens”  and  “Princesses,”  for  example,  were  almost 
yearly  giving  instances  of  their  adaptability  to  surprise  the 
Chrysanthemum  world.  Edwin  Molyneux  was  introduced  from 
Japan  by  Mr.  Cannell.  Edith  Tabor  was  raised  from  seed  by 
Mr.  Notcutt,  the  result  of  purchasing  a  half-crown  packet  of 
seed  from  Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  a  speculation  that  could  not  be  re¬ 
garded  as  anything  but  a  profitable  one  ;  the  variety  is  so  charm¬ 
ing  and  so  lasting. — Sadoc.  '  - 
The  American  Chrysanthemum  Exhibition— Change  of  Date, 
The  date  of  the  above  exhibition,  to  be  held  under  the  joint 
auspices  of  the  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America  and  the 
Horticultural  Society  of  Chicago,  at  the  Art  Institute,  Chicago, 
was  first  set  for  November  4-8,  but  has  now  been  changed  to 
November  11-15  inclusive.  This  is  the  first  exhibition  attempted 
by  the  National  Society,  and  the  arrangements  made  for  it  by 
the  local  society  are  most  satisfactory.  The  main  exhibition  hail 
is  60ft  wide  by  220ft  long  and  30ft-  high,  with  an  annex  40ft  by 
80ft.  The  conference  hall — a  beautiful  and  commodious  chamber 
— in  the  same  building  can  be  secured  for  meetings  and  dis¬ 
cussions  if  necessary.  More  delightful  and  appropriate  surround¬ 
ings  for  the  great  Chrysanthemum  renaissance  of  America  could 
hardly  be  imagined,  and  the  building  is  located  in  the  very  best 
section  of  the  city  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors  of  every 
class  and  from  every  direction.  The  preliminary  list  of  premiums 
has  been  out  some  time,  and  copies  of  same  may  be  had  by 
addressing  Edwin  Lonsdale,  Secretary,  Chestnut  Hill,  Philadel¬ 
phia,  Pa.,  or  E.  A.  Kanst,  assistant  secretary,  5700  Cottage 
Grove  Avenue,  Chicago. 
The  Culture  of  Richardias. 
Richardias  kept  in  pots  throughout  the  summer  ought  now, 
at  the  latest,  to  be  repotted  and  started  into  fresh  growth.  Mix 
up  some  good,  rich  substantial  compost  of  loam  and  manure  with 
a  free  admixture  of  coarse  silver  sand.  The  plants  are  better 
for  potting  if  the  foliage  has  died  down  well,  though  if  it  has  not 
completely  withered  up,  it  may  be  cut  down  to  within  a  few 
inches  of  the  surface  of  the  soil,  avoiding  beheading  any  advancing 
young  growth  which  may  have  started  from  the  centre.  Unless 
kept  very  dry  the  foliage  turns  yellow  very  slowly,  and  seldom 
loses  its  freshness  altogether  before^  new  growth  issues  from  the 
base.  This,  however,  is  immaterial.  The  main  object  must  be  to 
repot  previous  to  much  advance  being  made  in  the  production 
of  new  growth,  the  plants  suffering  less  from  the  necessary  reduc¬ 
tion  of  the  roots. 
On  turning  the  plants  out  of  the  pots  the  balls  will  be  found  to 
be  a  mass  of  roots  if  the  plants  have  been  vigorous  and  healthy. 
The  crocks  originally  placed  in  the  pots  as  drainage  will  be  com¬ 
pletely  surrounded  with  a  network  of  roots.  The  ball  mav  be 
sliced  across  above  the  crocks.  If  composed  of  several  crowns 
each  strong,  divide  into  separate  portions,  reducing  the  soil  and 
shortening  the  fibres  of  each  portion  to  a  convenient  size  for 
placing  in  pots  which  will  hold  them  and  admit  of  fresh  soil  work¬ 
ing  round.  In  the  event  of  larger  plants  being  required,  those 
with  several  crowns  may,  after  cutting  away  the  crocks  and 
loosening  the  sides  of  the  ball  of  roots,  be  transferred  to  larger 
pots.  Large  pots  can  also  be  made  up  by  introducing  a  number 
of  equal  sized  single  crowns,  working  soil  between  them  and 
among  the  roots.  The  finest  blooms  or  spathes  are,  however, 
produced  from  single  crowns,  providing  they  have  been  previously 
built  up  strong  and  healthy. 
Lumpy  material,  either  turf  or  flaky  manure,  should  be  spread 
over  the  drainage  before  introducing  any  soil,  which  may  then  be 
filled  in  and  made  slightly  firm,  but  not  raised  too  high  for 
admitting  the  roots.  Spread  out  loose  roots,  sprinkling  soil 
among  them,  and  make  the  rest  firm  by  slightly  ramming  with  a 
potting  stick.  When  finished  stand  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes  in 
a  partially  shaded  position  at  first.  Give  a  copious  watering  to 
pass  through  the  whole  mass  of  roots  and  new  compost. 
For  a  short  time  afterwards  it  will  be  desirable  to  maintain 
the  soil  moist  by  frequent  syringing  rather  than  by  heavy  water¬ 
ing,  but  after  the  roots  commence  to  push  freely,  and  growth 
develops  actively,  supplies  may  be  given  when  the  surface  soil 
dries.  At  this  stage,  too,  stand  the  plants  in  a  sunny  position 
in  order  to  develop  them  dwarf  and  sturdy.  They  are  better  in 
the  open  air  until  October,  when  it  is  necessary  to  accommodate 
them  under  glass  in  anticipation  or  the  autumn  frosts,  which  they 
are  incapable  of  withstanding,  even  when  only  of  a  mild  form, 
the  foliage  being  extremely  tender  in  this  respect.  This  slight 
protection  being  afforded  them,  give  all  the  air  and  light  possible, 
and  maintain  the  temperature  cool,  or  they  will  grow  more 
rapidly  than  is  well  for  them. 
If  it  is  found  that  some  plants  are  inclined  to  push  flowering 
stems  in  November,  encourage  them  to  do  so,  as  those  plants 
which  can  thus  early  be  induced  to  bloom  remain  with  their 
flowers  in  a  first-class  condition  for  some  time.  They  can  also 
be  induced  to  open  their  blooms  better  if  provided  with  a  little 
heat  than  they  can  with  the  same  treatment  later  in  the  year. 
During  the  shortest  days  the  blooms  cannot  be  developed  without 
a  bottom  heat  of  60deg  to  65deg,  and  the  pots  should  be  filled 
with  roots. 
Some  growers  of  Richardias  plant  all  their  stock  of  plants  out 
in  the  open  garden  in  June  in  shallow  trenches,  so  that  water 
can  be  readily  applied.  The  plants  need  but  little  attention  until 
growth  commences,  when  mpre  water  will  be  required  in  dry 
weather.  The  old  withered  foliage  requires  cutting  away. 
At  the  end  of  September  or  the  first  week  in  October  lift  and 
pot  the  plants.  The  size  of  pot  will  depend  on  the  size  of  the  ball 
of  roots,  but,  of  course,  considerable  reduction  is  necessary  in 
order  to  conveniently  admit'  them  to  reasonably  sized  pots.  It 
is  well  to  afford  the  plants  a  preliminary  check  about  a  week  or 
ten  days  before  lifting  by  running  a  spade  round  the  clumps. 
Crock  and  have  the  pots  in  readiness,  so  that  the  lifting  and 
potting  may  be  expeditiously  carried  out. 
Pots,  not  usually  less  than  Sin  diameter,  should  be  employed, 
unless  small  offsets  were  planted,  which  will  require  smaller  sizes. 
When  lifted  give  a  preliminary  trimming  with  a  sharp  spade, 
and  finish  smoothing  the  roots  with  a  knife.  Cut  the  ball  as 
near  as  possible  the  size  of  the  pot,  removing  plenty  of  the  base, 
or  it  will  not  be  possible  to  place  the  ball  low  enough.  Having 
intoduced  it  into  the  pot  it  may  be  shaken  into  position  by  a 
series  of  jars  on  hard  ground.  Then  place  the  pots  in  slight  shade 
and  water  well.  In  a  few  days  stand  them  in  the  sun,  and  should 
frosts  be  probable,  place  under  glass  or  under  a  wall  with  tempo¬ 
rary  protection.  The  subsequent  treatment  is  the  same  as  for 
all-the-y ear-round-grown  pot  plants.  Liquid  manure  may  be 
given  when  plants  are  pot-bound. — S.  Dennis. 
