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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  September  4,  1902. 
with  from  21b  to  31b  of  freshly  burned  lime  pey  square  yard,  and, 
after  slaking,  mixing  with  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  -tin  to  Gin  with  a 
fork.  (September  3,  1896,  page  241.) 
The  stem  of  the  Melon  plant  above  ground  was  perfectly 
healthy,  hut  the  root-stem  had  a  swollen  appearance,  while  the 
smaller  roots  were  free  from  the  nodosities  indicative  of  root- 
knot  eelworm  (Heterodera  radicicola).  We  did  not  find  this  pest, 
but  in  the  root-stem,  embedded  in  the  cellular  tissue  or  between 
it  and  the  woody  layer,  the  root-stem  eelworm  (Tylenchus  ob- 
tusus)  was  plentiful,  and  this  we  regard  as  the  cause  of  “  the  plant 
failing  at  the  root  before  the  Melons  were  hardly  ripe.”  The  soil 
is  of  a  very  fibrous  nature,  and  in  that  the  eelworm  has  possibly 
been  introduced.  We  advise  the  careful  removal  of  the  rootstocks 
and  burning  them,  then  either  soak  the  soil  with  gas  liquor 
diluted  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water,  or  soluble  phenyle.  one 
part  in  240  of  soft  water,  or  scald  with  boiling  water.  We  have 
also  found  great  benefit  from  the  use  of  quicklime,  about  2)  per 
cent,  mixed  with  the  soil  in  stacking,  leaving  until  the  herbage 
was  completely  dead.  (August  11,  1898,  page  116.) 
The  tubercles  on  Melon  plant  roots  are  caused  by  root-knot  eel¬ 
worm  (Heterodera  radicicola),  a  minute  creature  about  one  two- 
hundredth  inch  in  length  in  the  adult  stage.  We  failed  to  find 
the  “  worms  as  enclosed  a  box  and  the  fewr  killed  by  lime  water.” 
Possibly  they  were  species  of  white  worm,  which  are  often  asso¬ 
ciated  with  decaying  vegetable  matter,  and  may  sometimes 
accelerate,  if  not  actually  cause,  the  destruction  of  living  tissues. 
All  the  eelworms  we  found  —  eggs,  cysts,  so-called  larvae,  free 
males  and  gravid  females — were  alive,  and  in  no  way  affected 
prejudicially  by  the  lime  water  if  it  had  been  used  to  effect  their 
destruction.  We  mention  this  as  you  say  “  worms  killed  by  lime 
water.”  We  still  find  Little’s  soluble  phenyle  the  most  effective 
against  these  pests  when  the  plants  are  growing,  applying  as  in 
an  ordinary  watering  at  the  rate  of  a  fluid  ounce  to  3gals  of  water, 
repeating  occasionally.  A  grower  badly  troubled  with  eelworm 
uses  the  phenyle  at  the  strength  quoted  before  planting  and 
afterwards  at  half  strength,  or  one  part  in  960  parts,  and  secures 
good  crops  of  both  Cucumbers  and  Melons  where  they  wrere 
formerly  failures.  For  general  disinfection  there  is  nothing 
better  than  scalding  the  soil  and  bed  walls  with  boiling  water. 
Where  this  cannot  be  done  use  21b  .of  best  freshly  burned  chalk- 
lime  per  square  yard,  slake,  using  as  little  water  as  possible  to 
cause  the  lumps  to  fall  into  powder.  Let  it  lie  overnight,  then 
work  in  with  a  fork  a  foot  deep,  taking  small  spits,  and  in  a  day 
or  two  apply  half  a  pound  kainit  per  square  yard,  forking  in 
similarly  to  the  lime  after  forty-eight  hours.  This  should  be 
done  some  time  in  advance  of  planting,  or  as  a  disinfectant  when 
the  plants  are  cleared.  (September  22,  1898,  page  236.) 
Pansies  and  Violas. 
The  value  of  Pansies  and  Violas  for  the  decoration  of  beds  and 
borders  should  not  be  overlooked.  They  are  especially  bright  and 
floriferous  in  spring  and  early  summer.  Frequently  they  will 
continue  all  the  summer  to  produce  flowers.  In  a  season  like  the 
present  it  is  noticeable  that  the  Pansies  and  Violas  have  succeeded 
admirably  in  producing  a  welcome  succession  of  blooms.  The 
Pansies,  however,  are  not  so  fine  as  early  in  the  season,  the 
tendency  being  for  the  blooms  to  become  smaller  after  the  first  lot, 
Violas  are  better  adapted  for  summer  flowering,  and  for  this 
reason  are  employed  in  bedding  arrangements  and  as  edgings 
to  borders.  There  are  no  better  flowering  plants  for  spring 
bedding  than  Pansies  and  Violas.  The  latter  are  often  termed 
tufted  Pansies.  The  blooms  differ  in  usually  being  of  a  .  self 
colour  with  a  distinct  eye  in  the  centre,  and  are  of  medium  size. 
Pansies  have  blotches  of  colour  on  the  three  lower  petals,  usually 
of  a  dark  colour,  with  a  margin  of  another  colour,  the  two  upper 
petals  being  the  same  colour  as  margin,  though  sometimes  the 
colour  is  suffused,  veined,  marked,  or  splashed.  The  whole 
flower  is  larger  and  more  imposing,  and  the  habit  of  the  plant 
more  straggling. 
The  season  for  propagating  or  preparing  for  autumn  planting 
is  now  at  hand,  and  a  few  notes  on  the  various  methods  of  pre¬ 
paring  plants  may  be  acceptable.  Where  there  is  no  stock  to  fall 
back  upon  raising  plants  from  seed  is  an  admirable  method.  The 
seed  is  best  sown  in  July  and  August.  Sown  now  it  should  be 
in  pots  or  shallow  boxes  under  glass.  Seedlings  are  pricked  out 
when  the  third  leaf  is  formed,  from  which  time  they  will  proceed 
to  strengthen  rapidly.  Prick  them  out  either  outdoors  in  the 
open,  or  in  frames  or  boxes.  Vigorous  seedlings  put  out  now 
will  make  fine,  sturdy  plants  for  autumn  planting.  Seedlings 
ready  for  treatment  may  be  purchased,  or  young  stuff  ready  for 
final  planting  obtained  later  on.  Autumn  planting  is  not  indis¬ 
pensable,  therefore  seedlings  considered  too  small  may  be 
wintered  in  a  frame  and  planted  out  in  March  or  April  following. 
Division  of  the  old  plants  is  another  method  of  increase.  The 
flowering  growths  ought  to  be  cut  away  some  short  time  previous, 
thus  encouraging  new  or  sucker  growth  from  the  centres.  When 
this  is  fairly  developed  lift  the  plants  'and  divide  into  portions 
with  roots  attached.  These  young  growths  appear  rather  weakly, 
but  if  furnished  with  a  fair  number  of  healthy  roots  young  and 
strong  plants  are  soon  produced  and  established.  At  the  time 
of  division,  if  they  cannot  be  placed  in  permanent  positions  for 
flowering  they  can  be  transferred  later  or  in  the  spring.  Break 
up  the  ground  well,  adding  a  little  decomposed  manure,  leaf  soil, 
and  wood  ashes.  The  last  method  of  increase  is  by  cuttings. 
This  plan  is  adopted  when  a  stock  of  a  particular  colour  or  variety 
is  wanted  in  quantity.  Cuttings  may  be  inserted  in  October  in 
frames.  Make  up  a  bed  of  soil,  which  should  be  rather  sandy  near 
the  surface,  or  surfaced  with  a  layer  of  sand.  Procure  the  slim 
growths  from  the  base  of  the  old  plants,  and  prick  out  each  singly 
2in  apart  in  rows  2in  or  3in  asunder.  But  little  prepara¬ 
tion  of  the  cuttings  is  needed.  Some  will  have  small  rootlets, 
the  shortest  being  the  best.  See  that  each  cutting  is  placed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hole  made  for  it,  which  should  be  done  with 
a  blunt  stick.  Press  the  soil  closely  round,  and  when  all  is 
finished  water  well  with  a  rosed  can.  Slight  shade  from  strong 
sunshine  is  necessary.  Place  the  lights  on  the  frame,  and  keep 
close  until  the  process  of  callusing  has  taken  place — that  is,  a 
swelling  at  the  base  of  the  cutting.  The  cuttings  will  then  re¬ 
main  fresh  until  roots  form  and  ramify  in  the  soil,  during  which 
time  plenty  of  air  should  be  given  on  favourable  occasions.  The 
plants  may  be  placed  out  from  the  middle  of  March  to  early 
May,  but  always  before  they  are  likely  to  be  affected  by  hot 
weather. — E.  D.  S. 
<•••» 
Tilgate  House,  Crawley. 
The  Weald  of  Sussex  to  the  south  of  them,  the  Kentish 
North  Downs  in  front  of  them,  and  unending  view  over  forest, 
and  mead  and  moor  on  right  and  left  of  them,  the  owners  of 
Tilgate  House,  near  Crawley  in  Sussex,  enjoy  that  freedom, 
the  fullest  and  best,  which  one  involuntarily  associates  with 
such  happy  homes  in  rural  England.  Mrs.  Nix  and  her  two 
sons  have  indeed  a  beautiful  estate,  the  residence  situated  nobly 
on  an  eminence  not  too  much  exposed,  yet  splendidly  free,  with 
shrub-dotted  lawns  around  it,  and  a  long  smooth  lake  within  a 
stone’s  thow  in  the  valley  which  rises  to  form  a  Larch-clad 
belt  upon  the  south.  Everywhere  on  the  southern  side  The 
Forest  spreads,  and  bridle  tracks,  like  sheep  runs  on  a  hillside, 
weave  connections  through  the  thousands  of  its  acres.  The 
cross-leaved  Heath  and  the  handsome  Bracken  flourish  rampantly 
on  every  side,  even  beneath  the  shade  of  the  full  grown  Larch 
trees,  while  in  the  open  inclines,  they  predominate  exclusively. 
Tilgate  House  was  visited  in  a  hurry,  for  it  is  the  way  of 
some  folks  to  attempt  more  than  ought  to  be  accomplished 
within  the  span  of  hours  twenty-four,  and  I  am  one  of  them. 
But  even  he  who  runs  could  enjoy -the  delights  of  the  lengthened 
drive  through  part  of  The  Forest  from  Three  Bridges  railway 
station  on  the  east  side,  and  as  the  “House”  was  gained,  the 
associated  features  of  the  beautiful  Sussex  vales  intensified  the 
interest  and  pleasure. 
It  was  one  of  those  hot  summer  days  when  the  cattle  in  the 
meadows  do  nothing  but  chew  their  chud,  and  swish  their  tails 
to  scare  the  flies;  when  haymakers  swelteringly  tussle  the  grass, 
and  commotion  has  ceased.  It. is  then  that  “Jack  Rabbit” 
comes  forth  from  his  burrow,  to  coquet  with  “Bunnie  ”  from  over 
the  way ;  he  doesn’t  then  mind  the  gun  of  the  knowing  game- 
keeper.  In  the  shady  stillness  of  the  darkened  forest,  robin 
red-breast  is  there,  and  maybe  the  wood  dove  too,  or  the  crack¬ 
voiced  male  pheasant ;  and  out  in  the  sun  the  butterflies  flit,  or 
in  the  shade  the  dipterous  kinds. 
Tilgate  House  is  built  of  light  sandstone.  It  is  thus  cheer¬ 
fully  bright.  The  Douglas  Firs  have  flourished  well  on  the 
lawns  surrounding  it;  not  less  so  the  Scottish  Pine.  There,  too, 
is  Pinus  insignis,  a  very  handsome  tree  and  quite  a  picture. 
Near  to  the  house  stands  an  aged  Tulip  Tree,  full  80ft  in  height. 
Some  years  ago  this  handsome  favourite  appeared  ill  in  health, 
but  Mr.  Nix  and  the  skilled  head  gardener,  Mr.  Edwin  Neal, 
prescribed  a  simple  and  effective  remedy,  that  of  supplying 
wiore  nourishment  in  the  form  of  a  top-dressing  to  the  roots. 
It  now  is  full  of  life  and  odorous  blossoms.  Lime  trees  do  well, 
and  there  are  some  rich  toned  Purple  Beeches  in  the  grounds. 
From  the  north  front  there  is  a  view  of  Leith  Hill,  a  prominent 
landmark  near  Dorking,  and  the  village  of  Hockstead  lies  in 
the  same  direction. 
Among  flowering  shrubs  that  luxuriate,  none  excel  the 
massive  clumps  of  Rhododendrons,  whose  roots  find  nurture  in 
the  peaty  soil.  By  a  mossy  path  among  the  Beech  trees  one 
saunters  to  The  Wilderness,  a  place  where  Nature  is  unbridled, 
yet  adorned  by  additions  to  her  own  productions.  Heaths  and 
Ferns,  and  lovely  grasses  are  hers;  man  (the  gardenman)  has 
